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date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 13:39:16 GMT,
group: uk.d-i-y
back
Drainingage
I have an area of the garden that is prone to standing water, the soil
is "clay" so drainage is poor at the best of times. Was thinking of
digging a hole and placing pipe with holes in it (what's the proper name
for that?[weep pipe?]), covering it in pea gravel, then replacing soil
on top (discarding any soil that doesn't fit back down the hole due to
the pipe and the gravel). This hole/pipe will run from the "bloody" bit
the entire length of the garden. Can anyone foresee any obvious gotchas
or have alternate ways of doing things?
--
'S rioghal mo dhream
www.cheesesoup.myby.co.uk
date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 13:39:16 GMT
author: soup
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Re: Drainingage
soup wrote:
> the "bloody" bit
That should of course be " 'F'loody" (I don't hate the garden that much).
--
'S rioghal mo dhream
www.cheesesoup.myby.co.uk
date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 13:54:38 GMT
author: soup
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Re: Drainingage
On Thu, 18 Sep 2008 13:39:16 GMT, soup wrote:
>I have an area of the garden that is prone to standing water, the soil
>is "clay" so drainage is poor at the best of times. Was thinking of
>digging a hole and placing pipe with holes in it (what's the proper name
>for that?[weep pipe?])
Land drain? The pvc pipe we used was wavinflow
>, covering it in pea gravel, then replacing soil
>on top (discarding any soil that doesn't fit back down the hole due to
>the pipe and the gravel). This hole/pipe will run from the "bloody" bit
>the entire length of the garden. Can anyone foresee any obvious gotchas
>or have alternate ways of doing things?
There are things called fin drains which look like a pipe with a
vertical fin, the fin is covered in geotextile to filter any soil out.
Apart from that what you describe is much what land drains were but
nowadays geotextile is used to stop the shingle and pipe silting up,
effectiveness depends on the soil type as fine silt will soon clog
land drains and clay soils don't connect well to them (in agriculture
a mole plough will be used to form runs into the gravel above the
pipe).
date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 15:09:28 +0100
author: AJH
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Re: Drainingage
AJH wrote:
> On Thu, 18 Sep 2008 13:39:16 GMT, soup wrote:
>
>> I have an area of the garden that is prone to standing water, the soil
>> is "clay" so drainage is poor at the best of times. Was thinking of
>> digging a hole and placing pipe with holes in it (what's the proper name
>> for that?[weep pipe?])
>
> Land drain? The pvc pipe we used was wavinflow
>
>
>> , covering it in pea gravel, then replacing soil
>> on top (discarding any soil that doesn't fit back down the hole due to
>> the pipe and the gravel). This hole/pipe will run from the "bloody" bit
>> the entire length of the garden. Can anyone foresee any obvious gotchas
>> or have alternate ways of doing things?
>
> There are things called fin drains which look like a pipe with a
> vertical fin, the fin is covered in geotextile to filter any soil out.
>
> Apart from that what you describe is much what land drains were but
> nowadays geotextile is used to stop the shingle and pipe silting up,
> effectiveness depends on the soil type as fine silt will soon clog
> land drains and clay soils don't connect well to them (in agriculture
> a mole plough will be used to form runs into the gravel above the
> pipe).
>
I think if there is enough shingle below the pipe, that will silt up
before the pipe does.
You may find that actually a bloody great hole backfilled with porous
rubble and suchlike, going deep enough may take you below clay level
anyway: when I was digging post holes here, I was intrigued to find the
sopping wet soil gave out about 3 foot down, below that I was running
into chalk and so on, and the subsoil was much drier. Our pond, which is
unlined, never fills up to the brim, no matter how much water goes in it..
In fact, we have solved a muddy bit of garden by the simple expedient of
slapping down a load of MOT and gravel, and heaping topsoil on it. It
raises the walkable grassy bit just enough so that the normal sheet of
water running over that part of the garden runs underneath it!
So waht iam sayingis that although a perforated pipe in a french drain
is really good at draining a specific small area, if there is somewhere
the water can run to, for a larger area, maybe all you want to do is
simply raise the level abut 4-6" with MOT type 1, of the chalky sort,
followed by gravel or sand, and push the topsoil back over it all.
date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 23:18:22 +0100
author: The Natural Philosopher a@b.c
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Re: Drainingage
On Sep 18, 11:18 pm, The Natural Philosopher <a...@b.c> wrote:
> AJH wrote:
> > On Thu, 18 Sep 2008 13:39:16 GMT, soup wrote:
>
> >> I have an area of the garden that is prone to standing water, the soil
> >> is "clay" so drainage is poor at the best of times. Was thinking of
> >> digging a hole and placing pipe with holes in it (what's the proper name
> >> for that?[weep pipe?])
>
> > Land drain? The pvc pipe we used was wavinflow
>
> >> , covering it in pea gravel, then replacing soil
> >> on top (discarding any soil that doesn't fit back down the hole due to
> >> the pipe and the gravel). This hole/pipe will run from the "bloody" bit
> >> the entire length of the garden. Can anyone foresee any obvious gotchas
> >> or have alternate ways of doing things?
>
> > There are things called fin drains which look like a pipe with a
> > vertical fin, the fin is covered in geotextile to filter any soil out.
>
> > Apart from that what you describe is much what land drains were but
> > nowadays geotextile is used to stop the shingle and pipe silting up,
> > effectiveness depends on the soil type as fine silt will soon clog
> > land drains and clay soils don't connect well to them (in agriculture
> > a mole plough will be used to form runs into the gravel above the
> > pipe).
>
> I think if there is enough shingle below the pipe, that will silt up
> before the pipe does.
>
> You may find that actually a bloody great hole backfilled with porous
> rubble and suchlike, going deep enough may take you below clay level
> anyway: when I was digging post holes here, I was intrigued to find the
> sopping wet soil gave out about 3 foot down, below that I was running
> into chalk and so on, and the subsoil was much drier. Our pond, which is
> unlined, never fills up to the brim, no matter how much water goes in it..
>
> In fact, we have solved a muddy bit of garden by the simple expedient of
> slapping down a load of MOT and gravel, and heaping topsoil on it. It
> raises the walkable grassy bit just enough so that the normal sheet of
> water running over that part of the garden runs underneath it!
>
> So waht iam sayingis that although a perforated pipe in a french drain
> is really good at draining a specific small area, if there is somewhere
> the water can run to, for a larger area, maybe all you want to do is
> simply raise the level abut 4-6" with MOT type 1, of the chalky sort,
> followed by gravel or sand, and push the topsoil back over it all.
For this /particular/ application (curing a boggy lawn) MOT type 1 is
probably excessive. Also, provided the sand is a bit dirty grass will
grow pretty happily on it (no need for expensive top soil).
date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 04:46:26 -0700 (PDT)
author: Martin Bonner
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