I reckon one of the most useful tools I own is a Wickes/Earlex wet/dry 
vacuum.

Use it for all sorts, emptying cisterns, unblocking sinks, draining water 
from rads & in dry mode I can trim doors, worktops etc with a circular saw 
almost dust free - very useful if working in a third floor flat.

Another use I found today - clearing airlocks in a central heating system.

My CH system is a bugger to bleed, especially the hall rad which is back to 
back with the lounge rad.

Refilling the system today, nothing coming out of either rad.  Removed the 
bleed screw from the hall rad, held the vac hose firmly against the hole & 
switched on.  Instantly rewarded by a large 'gurgle' sound & a steady stream 
of water - easily controlled by the vac whilst I replaced the bleed screw.

System bled in minutes with no mess.

Why don't more plumbers carry them?


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman"  wrote in message 
news:U2czk.57646$E41.13248@text.news.virginmedia.com...
>I reckon one of the most useful tools I own is a Wickes/Earlex wet/dry 
>vacuum.
>
> Use it for all sorts, emptying cisterns, unblocking sinks, draining water 
> from rads & in dry mode I can trim doors, worktops etc with a circular saw 
> almost dust free - very useful if working in a third floor flat.
>
> Another use I found today - clearing airlocks in a central heating system.
>
> My CH system is a bugger to bleed, especially the hall rad which is back 
> to back with the lounge rad.
>
> Refilling the system today, nothing coming out of either rad.  Removed the 
> bleed screw from the hall rad, held the vac hose firmly against the hole & 
> switched on.  Instantly rewarded by a large 'gurgle' sound & a steady 
> stream of water - easily controlled by the vac whilst I replaced the bleed 
> screw.
>
> System bled in minutes with no mess.
>
> Why don't more plumbers carry them?
>
>
> -- 
> Dave - The Medway Handyman
> www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
Couldn't agree more. I'm about to see if mine will start a syphon in 150 
metres of 25 mm from a spring to our stables. The little battery bilge pump 
I tried today wouldn't push over the necessary 8 feet or so.

On Sun, 14 Sep 2008 17:43:16 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

> Why don't more plumbers carry them?

Been there, done that. Word of warning though: mine (at least) has a habit
of spitting filthy water all round (the customer's) room when it gets
full. Slinging a dustsheet loosely over it can help contain that.

-- 
YAPH http://yaph.co.uk

militant pacifist

In article <e1Uzk.32066$KW1.21447@newsfe20.ams2>,
   YAPH  wrote:
> Been there, done that. Word of warning though: mine (at least) has a
> habit of spitting filthy water all round (the customer's) room when it
> gets full. Slinging a dustsheet loosely over it can help contain that.

I've got an ancient Rowenta which has a float - rises with the water and
eventually blocks the input to the fan and switches off the motor.  
'Twas a Which best buy - and they were right about that.

-- 
*If love is blind, why is lingerie so popular?

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"The Medway Handyman"  wrote in message 
news:U2czk.57646$E41.13248@text.news.virginmedia.com...
>I reckon one of the most useful tools I own is a Wickes/Earlex wet/dry 
>vacuum.
>
> Use it for all sorts, emptying cisterns, unblocking sinks, draining water 
> from rads & in dry mode I can trim doors, worktops etc with a circular saw 
> almost dust free - very useful if working in a third floor flat.
>
> Another use I found today - clearing airlocks in a central heating system.
>
> My CH system is a bugger to bleed, especially the hall rad which is back 
> to back with the lounge rad.
>
> Refilling the system today, nothing coming out of either rad.  Removed the 
> bleed screw from the hall rad, held the vac hose firmly against the hole & 
> switched on.  Instantly rewarded by a large 'gurgle' sound & a steady 
> stream of water - easily controlled by the vac whilst I replaced the bleed 
> screw.
>
> System bled in minutes with no mess.
>
> Why don't more plumbers carry them?

Because they charge by the hour?

Adam

On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 22:42:28 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

> Is yours the Wickes/Earlex?  It should have a shut off ball & a foam
> filter. Never had mine spitting stuff around.

Yup. Shut-off ball doesn't cut the motor, just stops it sucking. The foam
filter packed up long ago and I now use the corrugated one (like a car air
filter). Maybe mine's just an ancient sample and they've fixed it on the
newer ones. Trouble is it keeps on going so no excuse to replace it :-)


-- 
John Stumbles

Never believe anyone who claims to be a liar

John Stumbles wrote:
> On Tue, 16 Sep 2008 22:42:28 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>
>> Is yours the Wickes/Earlex?  It should have a shut off ball & a foam
>> filter. Never had mine spitting stuff around.
>
> Yup. Shut-off ball doesn't cut the motor, just stops it sucking. The
> foam filter packed up long ago and I now use the corrugated one (like
> a car air filter). Maybe mine's just an ancient sample and they've
> fixed it on the newer ones. Trouble is it keeps on going so no excuse
> to replace it :-)

Check the ball & seat to make sure they are clean.  The spitting is no good 
for the motor - it will rust out.


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On Wed, 17 Sep 2008 23:37:11 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

> Check the ball & seat to make sure they are clean.  The spitting is no
> good for the motor - it will rust out.

"Clean"? Wassat? ;-)

-- 
John Stumbles

Xenophobia? Sounds a bit foreign to me.

John Stumbles wrote:
> On Wed, 17 Sep 2008 23:37:11 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>
>> Check the ball & seat to make sure they are clean.  The spitting is
>> no good for the motor - it will rust out.
>
> "Clean"? Wassat? ;-)

In a previous life I was an accredited trainer for The British Institute of 
Cleaning Science.  You would have failed your 'Wet Pick Up' test for not 
checking the float vavle every time you used the machine :-)

Failing to check the mains lead every time you used the machine would have 
stopped the test immediately!

Naughty man!


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 14 Sep, 18:43, "The Medway Handyman"
 wrote:
> I reckon one of the most useful tools I own is a Wickes/Earlex wet/dry
> vacuum.
>
> Use it for all sorts, emptying cisterns, unblocking sinks, draining water
> from rads & in dry mode I can trim doors, worktops etc with a circular saw
> almost dust free - very useful if working in a third floor flat.
>
> Another use I found today - clearing airlocks in a central heating system> My CH system is a bugger to bleed, especially the hall rad which is back to
> back with the lounge rad.
>
> Refilling the system today, nothing coming out of either rad.  Removed the
> bleed screw from the hall rad, held the vac hose firmly against the hole > switched on.  Instantly rewarded by a large 'gurgle' sound & a steady stream
> of water - easily controlled by the vac whilst I replaced the bleed screw> System bled in minutes with no mess.
>
> Why don't more plumbers carry them?
>

I have a piece of 15mm foam pip insulation that fits (i) over a 15mm
pipe end and (ii) into the end of the flexible pipe. Provides a
surprisingly good fit. Used it to remove water from a short U before a
radiator tail that needed to solder.

Andrew

"The Medway Handyman"  wrote in message 
news:U2czk.57646$E41.13248@text.news.virginmedia.com...
>I reckon one of the most useful tools I own is a Wickes/Earlex wet/dry 
>vacuum.
>
> Use it for all sorts, emptying cisterns, unblocking sinks, draining water 
> from rads & in dry mode I can trim doors, worktops etc with a circular saw 
> almost dust free - very useful if working in a third floor flat.
>
> Another use I found today - clearing airlocks in a central heating system.
>
> My CH system is a bugger to bleed, especially the hall rad which is back 
> to back with the lounge rad.
>
> Refilling the system today, nothing coming out of either rad.  Removed the 
> bleed screw from the hall rad, held the vac hose firmly against the hole & 
> switched on.  Instantly rewarded by a large 'gurgle' sound & a steady 
> stream of water - easily controlled by the vac whilst I replaced the bleed 
> screw.
>
> System bled in minutes with no mess.
>
> Why don't more plumbers carry them?
>
Also useful for cutting a plastic central heating pipe whilst live, for 
adding a drain valve. Kitchen fitters fitted a plinth heater but no drain 
valve. Would be best place for drain as bottom of circuit and near back door 
get a hose pipe out direct to manhole.

Anyway get new section of pipe ready (with valve on end), get plastic insert 
ready, get pipe cutter ready, get loads of clothes ready (just in case). 
Turn on vacuum, cut pipe, finger over end, insert insert, finger over end, 
push on new peice, hardly a drop spilled, I was quite impressed with my 
self.....

Ian_m wrote:
> "The Medway Handyman"  wrote in
> message news:U2czk.57646$E41.13248@text.news.virginmedia.com...
>> I reckon one of the most useful tools I own is a Wickes/Earlex
>> wet/dry vacuum.
>>
>> Use it for all sorts, emptying cisterns, unblocking sinks, draining
>> water from rads & in dry mode I can trim doors, worktops etc with a
>> circular saw almost dust free - very useful if working in a third
>> floor flat. Another use I found today - clearing airlocks in a central 
>> heating
>> system. My CH system is a bugger to bleed, especially the hall rad which 
>> is
>> back to back with the lounge rad.
>>
>> Refilling the system today, nothing coming out of either rad. Removed the 
>> bleed screw from the hall rad, held the vac hose firmly
>> against the hole & switched on.  Instantly rewarded by a large
>> 'gurgle' sound & a steady stream of water - easily controlled by the
>> vac whilst I replaced the bleed screw.
>>
>> System bled in minutes with no mess.
>>
>> Why don't more plumbers carry them?
>>
> Also useful for cutting a plastic central heating pipe whilst live,
> for adding a drain valve. Kitchen fitters fitted a plinth heater but
> no drain valve. Would be best place for drain as bottom of circuit
> and near back door get a hose pipe out direct to manhole.
>
> Anyway get new section of pipe ready (with valve on end), get plastic
> insert ready, get pipe cutter ready, get loads of clothes ready (just
> in case). Turn on vacuum, cut pipe, finger over end, insert insert,
> finger over end, push on new peice, hardly a drop spilled, I was
> quite impressed with my self.....

I've done that & got surprisingly wet :-(


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

>>>
>> Anyway get new section of pipe ready (with valve on end), get plastic
>> insert ready, get pipe cutter ready, get loads of clothes ready (just
>> in case). Turn on vacuum, cut pipe, finger over end, insert insert,
>> finger over end, push on new peice, hardly a drop spilled, I was
>> quite impressed with my self.....
> 
> I've done that & got surprisingly wet :-(
> 
> 

I've done similar and I thought 'barely a drop spilt' my good wife said
'you have flooded the corner' actually a lot stronger than that.
So it's all in the eye of the beholder........

On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 19:42:30 +0100, Chewbacca wrote:

>>> Turn on vacuum, cut pipe, finger over end, insert insert, finger over 
>>> end, push on new peice, hardly a drop spilled, I was quite impressed 
>>>with my self.....
>> 
>> I've done that & got surprisingly wet :-(
> 
> I've done similar and I thought 'barely a drop spilt' my good wife said
> 'you have flooded the corner' actually a lot stronger than that.

What you all need is a couple of bungs, stuff one in the vent pipe and the 
other in the header tanks outlet. No air or water can now get in to 
replace any that leaks out, it really does work. 

On a pressurised system I think you'd just need to de-pressurise it, 
disconnect the filling loop on the supply side (as it always should be any 
way), direct hose end into bucket open valve until there is no more flow, 
*close valve*.

-- 
Cheers
Dave.

Dave Liquorice wrote:
> On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 19:42:30 +0100, Chewbacca wrote:
>
>>>> Turn on vacuum, cut pipe, finger over end, insert insert, finger
>>>> over end, push on new peice, hardly a drop spilled, I was quite
>>>> impressed with my self.....
>>>
>>> I've done that & got surprisingly wet :-(
>>
>> I've done similar and I thought 'barely a drop spilt' my good wife
>> said 'you have flooded the corner' actually a lot stronger than that.
>
> What you all need is a couple of bungs, stuff one in the vent pipe
> and the other in the header tanks outlet. No air or water can now get
> in to replace any that leaks out, it really does work.
>
> On a pressurised system I think you'd just need to de-pressurise it,
> disconnect the filling loop on the supply side (as it always should
> be any way), direct hose end into bucket open valve until there is no
> more flow, *close valve*.

Deffo.  With a pressureised system I just turn off the filling loop (asuming 
its open, which it shouldn't be).  Hadn't thought of using the filling loop 
as a pressure drain - good one.

With a tank fed system, I have used the bungs you suggest, but if you turn 
off all the other rads both ends you have much less water to drain & re 
filling is much easier.



-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article <5zWAk.60469$E41.59181@text.news.virginmedia.com>,
   The Medway Handyman  wrote:
> Deffo.  With a pressureised system I just turn off the filling loop
> (asuming its open, which it shouldn't be).  Hadn't thought of using the
> filling loop as a pressure drain - good one.

It's often the drain point for the boiler itself - but rarely low enough
for the whole system.

-- 
*Why doesn't glue stick to the inside of the bottle?

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 23:26:57 GMT, The Medway Handyman wrote:

> Deffo.  With a pressureised system I just turn off the filling loop 
> (asuming its open, which it shouldn't be).  

Should also be disconnected as well as turned of I believe...

> Hadn't thought of using the filling loop as a pressure drain - good one.

Never having had or worked ona pressurised system it's the only way I 
could think of of letting the pressure out. There must be a drain point 
some where but they aren't normally easy to get at, have a handy bit of 
hose already attached and a valve that is easy to operate. I did think in 
passing of letting the air out of the expansion vessel but that probably 
isn'tr a good idea, might rupture the rubber diaphgram inside and you'd 
need some means of pumping it back up.

> With a tank fed system, I have used the bungs you suggest, but if you 
> turn off all the other rads both ends you have much less water to drain 
> & re filling is much easier.

With the bungs in *very* little water comes out unless you have a leak 
somewhere. Still best to be cautious when cracking open the first joint 
just in case. I've used the bungs and only about 1/2 a cupful came out, 
not enough that an old medium hand towel couldn't cope with. If changing a 
radiator valve it's worth being aware that the radiator might "glug" air 
in through the open hole and a glug water out... 

Tht can be avoided, fit the bungs, turn off both valves on the rad you are 
working on. See if there is enough slack in the pipe work spring the pipe 
out of a valve bottom, direct open end of valve into suitable receptical, 
open valve and open open radiator bleed valve. Radiator will drain into 
receptical. Once drained remember to close the bleed valve or you might 
forget later and when you remove the bungs and turn on the valves again.

-- 
Cheers
Dave.

In article ,
   Dave Liquorice  wrote:
> Never having had or worked ona pressurised system it's the only way I 
> could think of of letting the pressure out. There must be a drain point 
> some where but they aren't normally easy to get at, have a handy bit of 
> hose already attached and a valve that is easy to operate.

The sensible thing is to have one of those combination lockshields and
drain valves on a rad close to an outside door. They allow draining down
far enough for most jobs - although you might also have one at the actual
lowest point, which never seems so convenient. Problem with using the
boiler one as a drain point is they are usually not low enough to allow
work on ground floor rads.

-- 
*I don't suffer from insanity, I enjoy every minute of it *

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Fri, 19 Sep 2008 22:15:44 +0100, Dave Liquorice wrote:

> What you all need is a couple of bungs, stuff one in the vent pipe and
> the other in the header tanks outlet. No air or water can now get in to
> replace any that leaks out, it really does work. 

Usually: I use this technique a lot but occasionally it doesn't stop off
the flow as it should. Sometimes you can pin it down to an automatic air
valve (just tighten up the dust cap) but sometimes there's no apparent
reason.

> 
> On a pressurised system I think you'd just need to de-pressurise it, 
> disconnect the filling loop on the supply side (as it always should be any 
> way), direct hose end into bucket open valve until there is no more flow, 
> *close valve*.

I think that works on some Vaillants but on most* systems the
required non-return (check) valve is on the primary (CH) side of
the filling link rather than on the supply side, so when you open the
valve on that side nothing (should) come out.

* IME



-- 
YAPH http://yaph.co.uk

I'm more non-competitive than you

On Sat, 20 Sep 2008 13:41:46 +0100, Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

> The sensible thing is to have one of those combination lockshields and
> drain valves on a rad close to an outside door. They allow draining down
> far enough for most jobs 

Ah but the beauty of the bungs or depressurising a system is that you 
don't have to drain down below the point you are working at. If no air or 
water can get in then none, or very little, is going to get out. Also 
means you haven't got to worry about how much inhibitor to add to keep the 
concentration up etc etc.

-- 
Cheers
Dave.