Had to do some central heating repairs today (a leaking joint) which 
involved attaching a new piece of pipework on to an existing 10mm 
system.  I had hoped to do a soldered joint, but having drained down the 
CH and cut off the tube where I needed to, I waited for for the 
offending tube to stop dripping water while I assembled the rest of the 
new pipework separately.

Still no sign of it stopping completely after about an hour; I was sure 
that if I tried soldering to it, I could be pretty sure that the joint 
wouldn't take due to an inopportune drop of water arriving.  So I went 
for an ugly compression joint instead.

How do you get round this when making a soldered joint?  I didn't want 
to bung up the radiator pipework with bread (as I've seen recommended) 
and although I didn't have my wet-and-dry vaccuum cleaner with me (as 
I've also seen recommended), I really doubt that would have worked since 
I was working at the bottom of a vertical drop from upstairs.

(I'm sure .andy would have had an answer...)

David

Lobster  wrote:

> Had to do some central heating repairs today (a leaking joint) which 
> involved attaching a new piece of pipework on to an existing 10mm 
> system.  I had hoped to do a soldered joint, but having drained down the
> CH and cut off the tube where I needed to, I waited for for the 
> offending tube to stop dripping water while I assembled the rest of the
> new pipework separately.
> 
> Still no sign of it stopping completely after about an hour; I was sure
> that if I tried soldering to it, I could be pretty sure that the joint
> wouldn't take due to an inopportune drop of water arriving.  So I went
> for an ugly compression joint instead.
> 
> How do you get round this when making a soldered joint?

I dont think it is possible.
Even if the water is not dripping, I have had it before where the
evaporating steam has built up enough pressure to escape via the still
molten solder.
Nowadys I dry as much as possible, heat up the pipe around 6 or 8"
either side of the joint to dry it out thoroughly, then when cooled
down, and it is still dry, I solder it up.
Where there is clearly visible water that cannot be stopped, I would not
attempt a solder joint.
Alan.

-- 
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

"Lobster"  wrote in message

> How do you get round this when making a soldered joint?  I didn't want to 
> bung up the radiator pipework with bread (as I've seen recommended) and 
> although I didn't have my wet-and-dry vaccuum cleaner with me (as I've 
> also seen recommended), I really doubt that would have worked since I was 
> working at the bottom of a vertical drop from upstairs.
>
> (I'm sure .andy would have had an answer...)
>
> David

Have a pipe with you that fits over the copper pipe and suck the excess 
out,other than that heat the pipe up all the way along to boil off excess 
water.

Lobster wrote:
> Had to do some central heating repairs today (a leaking joint) which 
> involved attaching a new piece of pipework on to an existing 10mm 
> system.  I had hoped to do a soldered joint, but having drained down the 
> CH and cut off the tube where I needed to, I waited for for the 
> offending tube to stop dripping water while I assembled the rest of the 
> new pipework separately.
> 
> Still no sign of it stopping completely after about an hour; I was sure 
> that if I tried soldering to it, I could be pretty sure that the joint 
> wouldn't take due to an inopportune drop of water arriving.  So I went 
> for an ugly compression joint instead.
> 

two appraches, maybe three work.

First its important not to try and seal a pipe system that can have 
pressure.

Then you can either beaver away with the blowlamp while a nearby tap or 
valve steams merrily until the steam has gone, or sometimes pipe freezer 
will do the business. That will at least temporarily halt a drip flow.



> How do you get round this when making a soldered joint?  I didn't want 
> to bung up the radiator pipework with bread (as I've seen recommended) 
> and although I didn't have my wet-and-dry vaccuum cleaner with me (as 
> I've also seen recommended), I really doubt that would have worked since 
> I was working at the bottom of a vertical drop from upstairs.
> 
> (I'm sure .andy would have had an answer...)
> 
> David

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 19:29:27 +0100, Lobster
 wrote:

>Had to do some central heating repairs today (a leaking joint) which 
>involved attaching a new piece of pipework on to an existing 10mm 
>system.  I had hoped to do a soldered joint, but having drained down the 
>CH and cut off the tube where I needed to, I waited for for the 
>offending tube to stop dripping water while I assembled the rest of the 
>new pipework separately.
>
>Still no sign of it stopping completely after about an hour; I was sure 
>that if I tried soldering to it, I could be pretty sure that the joint 
>wouldn't take due to an inopportune drop of water arriving.  So I went 
>for an ugly compression joint instead.
>
>How do you get round this when making a soldered joint?  I didn't want 
>to bung up the radiator pipework with bread (as I've seen recommended) 
>and although I didn't have my wet-and-dry vaccuum cleaner with me (as 
>I've also seen recommended), I really doubt that would have worked since 
>I was working at the bottom of a vertical drop from upstairs.
>
>(I'm sure .andy would have had an answer...)
>
Use plenty of flux and a large nozzle on your burner. The excess flux
will protect the joint as it reaches soldering temperature and the
large burner will easily cope with the odd drop of water.

If at all possible, solder the lower end of the joint on first before
fitting the higher end to the joint.

Regards,



-- 
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
http://www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{who is at}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 19:29:27 +0100, Lobster wrote:

...
> and although I didn't have my wet-and-dry vaccuum cleaner with me (as
> I've also seen recommended), I really doubt that would have worked since
> I was working at the bottom of a vertical drop from upstairs.

Sometimes you can get the joint dry long enough to solder by sucking with
your wet & dry vac from another pipe in the system.

-- 
John Stumbles

My other sigs are posh

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 19:29:27 +0100, Lobster wrote:

> How do you get round this when making a soldered joint?  I didn't want 
> to bung up the radiator pipework with bread 

Any water about is bad news, either you simply won't be able to get the 
pipe hot enough for the solder to flow or the pressure from the steam will 
blow it's way out. The former is most likely in your case with a "flow" of 
water. Damp will be driven off but even a slow continuous drip is enough 
to keep the pipe cool.

> I really doubt that would have worked since I was working at the bottom 
> of a vertical drop from upstairs.

That is the tricky bit any water will find the lowest point. You could try 
blowing or sucking the pipe to adjust the level of water further up the 
pipe above jiggling and possibly pulling it to bring the end down a bit or 
carefully using kitchen roll to blot up the pipe.

-- 
Cheers
Dave.

In article <4yyyk.2248$Jv3.2031@newsfe23.ams2>,
   Lobster  wrote:
> How do you get round this when making a soldered joint?  I didn't want 
> to bung up the radiator pipework with bread (as I've seen recommended) 
> and although I didn't have my wet-and-dry vaccuum cleaner with me (as 
> I've also seen recommended), I really doubt that would have worked since 
> I was working at the bottom of a vertical drop from upstairs.

If you've got a vacuum cleaner than can blow instead of suck that should
dry them out - assuming you've stopped any new water entering the system.

-- 
*Husband and cat lost -- reward for cat

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

In article ,
   Stephen Howard  wrote:
> Use plenty of flux and a large nozzle on your burner. The excess flux
> will protect the joint as it reaches soldering temperature and the
> large burner will easily cope with the odd drop of water.

I've not found this at at all on a pipe which is continually dripping. If
it's simply damp heat will sort that - but this sounds rather more than
that.

-- 
*What are the pink bits in my tyres? Cyclists & Joggers*

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

> If you've got a vacuum cleaner than can blow instead of suck that should
> dry them out - assuming you've stopped any new water entering the system.

Ha...
That remindsme of a story about my first serious plumbing job im my
first house, it involved a 200 bar diving cylinder and a single pipe CH
system completely blocked with chipboard fibres where previous occupants
had made a chipboard lid for the expansion tank and some snug fitting
hose pipe......  ;¬)

A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my DIY
 regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!

:¬)

Pete

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 22:45:43 +0100, "Dave Plowman (News)"
 wrote:

>In article ,
>   Stephen Howard  wrote:
>> Use plenty of flux and a large nozzle on your burner. The excess flux
>> will protect the joint as it reaches soldering temperature and the
>> large burner will easily cope with the odd drop of water.
>
>I've not found this at at all on a pipe which is continually dripping. If
>it's simply damp heat will sort that - but this sounds rather more than
>that.

It's worked for me - but I did use quite a hefty Sievert nozzle.
I think if it's much more than a drip every couple of seconds then it
might get rather tricky.

I'm wondering whether or not it might be possible to shove a soluble
tablet up the pipe - something like an Alka-Seltzer? Maybe two of them
back-to-back - they'd hold the drips off long enough to allow the
joint to be soldered and then they'd dissolve when the water was
turned on.
Might have to sand them down a bit to get them to fit.

Regards,



-- 
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
http://www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{who is at}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

Stephen Howard wrote:

> Use plenty of flux and a large nozzle on your burner. The excess flux
> will protect the joint as it reaches soldering temperature and the
> large burner will easily cope with the odd drop of water.

Could you specify what a 'large burner' is & possibly a link to a supplier?I 
have a Taymar blow lamp & no way would it ever get hot enough to cope with 
even a trace of moisture, let alone the odd drop of water.


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:

> A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my
> DIY regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!

Could you suggest a make & model for a 'real' plumbers torch please?


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman"  wrote in message 
news:M%Byk.56898$E41.1075@text.news.virginmedia.com...
> www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>
>> A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my
>> DIY regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!
>
> Could you suggest a make & model for a 'real' plumbers torch please?
>
>
> -- 
> Dave - The Medway Handyman
> www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
>

Taymar blowlamp is crap and a waste of money in terms of buying gas 
canisters,get yourself a propane torch.

Great for paint stripping,soldering copper pipes...£10 for a propane 
6.5kilo.
http://tinyurl.com/3lus5a

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 22:23:42 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
 wrote:

>Stephen Howard wrote:
>
>> Use plenty of flux and a large nozzle on your burner. The excess flux
>> will protect the joint as it reaches soldering temperature and the
>> large burner will easily cope with the odd drop of water.
>
>Could you specify what a 'large burner' is & possibly a link to a supplier?I 
>have a Taymar blow lamp & no way would it ever get hot enough to cope with 
>even a trace of moisture, let alone the odd drop of water.

Well, I can tell you that it's a Sievert as all my soldering kit is
that brand - but as to the nozzle size, it's the second largest one I
have out of half a dozen....and it's about an inch in diameter.
It's a proper gas gun job, with a separate gas supply and hoses etc.
rather than a handheld jobby ( though I've see a few of these with
quite large nozzles before ).

Funnily enough I got that nozzle at the tip - attached to a decent
handle too.

Regards,



-- 
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
http://www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{who is at}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

On 12 Sep, 23:38, "George"  wrote:
> "The Medway Handyman"  wrote in messagenews:M%Byk.56898$E41.1075@text.news.virginmedia.com...
>
> >www.GymRatZ.co.ukwrote:
>
> >> A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my
> >> DIY regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!
>
> > Could you suggest a make & model for a 'real' plumbers torch please?
>
> > --
> > Dave - The Medway Handyman
> >www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
> Taymar blowlamp is crap and a waste of money in terms of buying gas
> canisters,get yourself a propane torch.
>
> Great for paint stripping,soldering copper pipes...£10 for a propane
> 6.5kilo.http://tinyurl.com/3lus5a

I'm surprised that no one has mentioned the pipe freezing kit from
Screwfix

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/13369/Plumbing/Pipe-Freezing-Kits/Pipe-Freezing-Kit-220ml

I've used these on  couple of occasions and found them excellent.
You'll get 20 to 30 minutes worth of frozen plug out of one tin.

Rob

The Medway Handyman wrote:
> www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
> 
>> A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my
>> DIY regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!
> 
> Could you suggest a make & model for a 'real' plumbers torch please?

Dunno if a real plumber would class it as a pro. job as I got it from
B&Q however...
http://tinyurl.com/2opqe2
Benzomatic with a can of MAPP gas.
It's so quick you actually use very little gas and it doesn't take an
age to warm up through that whole orange, yellow, spitting/popping flame
routine of your typical blowtorch.
I presume replacement canisters would have to come from a Plumbers
merchant or something specialist as (at the time) they weren't a
seperate B&Q part.

I think it would only be B&Q Warehouse that sell them, or no doubt other
on-line places like screwfix.

No doubt others will be able to comment on other such articles.

Cheers
Pete

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008 23:08:44 +0000 Stephen Howard wrote :
> I'm wondering whether or not it might be possible to shove a soluble
> tablet up the pipe - something like an Alka-Seltzer?

An old plumber I knew said that bread was ideal for this - but not 
advised if you're feeding something with small orifices

-- 
Tony Bryer SDA UK  'Software to build on'  http://www.sda.co.uk

In message <ObCyk.56903$E41.3807@text.news.virginmedia.com>, George 
 writes
>
>"The Medway Handyman"  wrote in message
>news:M%Byk.56898$E41.1075@text.news.virginmedia.com...
>> www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>>
>>> A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my
>>> DIY regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!
>>
>> Could you suggest a make & model for a 'real' plumbers torch please?
>>
>>
>> --
>> Dave - The Medway Handyman
>> www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>>
>>
>
>Taymar blowlamp is crap and a waste of money in terms of buying gas
>canisters,get yourself a propane torch.
>
>Great for paint stripping,soldering copper pipes...£10 for a propane
>6.5kilo.
>http://tinyurl.com/3lus5a
>
All the real Medway Handymen use a Rothenburger


proper tool for the right job ...

-- 
geoff

George wrote:
> "The Medway Handyman"  wrote in
> message news:M%Byk.56898$E41.1075@text.news.virginmedia.com...
>> www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>>
>>> A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my
>>> DIY regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!
>>
>> Could you suggest a make & model for a 'real' plumbers torch please?
>>
>
> Taymar blowlamp is crap and a waste of money in terms of buying gas
> canisters,get yourself a propane torch.
>
> Great for paint stripping,soldering copper pipes...£10 for a propane
> 6.5kilo.   http://tinyurl.com/3lus5a

Is there a canister alternative though?  I'm not a plumber, I just do odd 
bits of plumbing.  Taymar gas canister lasts me 6 mths +.  Dont really want 
a bulky 6.5 kilo cylinder on the van either, takes up too much space.


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In article <R%Jyk.56954$E41.40843@text.news.virginmedia.com>,
   The Medway Handyman  wrote:
> Is there a canister alternative though?  I'm not a plumber, I just do
> odd bits of plumbing.  Taymar gas canister lasts me 6 mths +.  Dont
> really want a bulky 6.5 kilo cylinder on the van either, takes up too
> much space.

Absolutely. Cylinder types are ideal for those using them all the time but
a nonsense for the odd job. I'm still using my ancient Camping Gaz one.

-- 
*Just remember...if the world didn't suck, we'd all fall off*

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

The Medway Handyman wrote:
> www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>
>> A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my
>> DIY regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!
>
> Could you suggest a make & model for a 'real' plumbers torch please?

Just looking around the SF site, they rate blow torches in watts.  The cheap 
'peirced can' type torch which looks similar to my Taymar is rated at 250w, 
wheras the next one up 
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80471/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Soldering-Brazing/Brazing/Hot-Butane-Mixed-Gas/Brass-Torch-Pencil-Flame

is rated at 680w - over twice as powerful.  Would that be described as 
professional or would I need to go up to a 1200w + version?


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman  wrote:

> Just looking around the SF site, they rate blow torches in watts.  The cheap
> 'peirced can' type torch which looks similar to my Taymar is rated at 250w,
> wheras the next one up 
> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80471/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Soldering-Br
> azing/Brazing/Hot-Butane-Mixed-Gas/Brass-Torch-Pencil-Flame
> 
> is rated at 680w - over twice as powerful.  Would that be described as
> professional or would I need to go up to a 1200w + version?

These are highly rated:
<http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_6883/plumbing-tools/gas-torches/
rothenberger-superfire-2-soldering-and-brazing-gas-torch.html>

Very useful as it can be used upside down, unlike many other torches.

And all the quality plumbing tools here:
<http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/cat_666/_by-brand/rothenberger.html>

Alan.
-- 
To reply by e-mail, change the ' + ' to 'plus'.

On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 09:25:28 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80471/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Soldering-Brazing/Brazing/Hot-Butane-Mixed-Gas/Brass-Torch-Pencil-Flame
> 
> is rated at 680w - over twice as powerful.  Would that be described as
> professional or would I need to go up to a 1200w + version?

I've got a Bernzomatic. Can't find my model anywhere but I think this must
be the current version of it:
	http://www.screwfix.com/prods/94963
But SFX don't sell the gas canisters!

http://www.bernzomatic.eu/torches2.html shows the canister (fitted to a
'pencil torch').

I find this good for up to 28mm and it can deal with very slightly
dripping pipes if you crank it up to full bore (i.e the drips get boiled
off before they can reach the joint).

-- 
John Stumbles

What is a simile like?

On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 09:25:28 GMT, "The Medway Handyman"
 wrote:

>The Medway Handyman wrote:
>> www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>>
>>> A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my
>>> DIY regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!
>>
>> Could you suggest a make & model for a 'real' plumbers torch please?
>
>Just looking around the SF site, they rate blow torches in watts.  The cheap 
>'peirced can' type torch which looks similar to my Taymar is rated at 250w, 
>wheras the next one up 
>http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80471/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Soldering-Brazing/Brazing/Hot-Butane-Mixed-Gas/Brass-Torch-Pencil-Flame
>
>is rated at 680w - over twice as powerful.  Would that be described as 
>professional or would I need to go up to a 1200w + version?



Have a look at the Sievert range - they do a couple of really nice
handheld burners. You can fit a variety of nozzles, and spares are
always available - and the kits just lasts and lasts.
The Turbojet looks interesting.

http://www.sievert.se/sievert_us/turbojet.htm

http://www.gogainindustry.com/promatic/powerjet.htm

Regards,



-- 
Stephen Howard - Woodwind repairs & period restorations
www.shwoodwind.co.uk
Emails to: showard{whoisat}shwoodwind{dot}co{dot}uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
> The Medway Handyman wrote:
>> www.GymRatZ.co.uk wrote:
>>
>>> A _real_ plumbers torch thing can make a huge difference. One of my
>>> DIY regrets was not buying one 10 years ago!
>> Could you suggest a make & model for a 'real' plumbers torch please?
> 
> Just looking around the SF site, they rate blow torches in watts.  The cheap 
> 'peirced can' type torch which looks similar to my Taymar is rated at 250w, 
> wheras the next one up 
> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80471/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Soldering-Brazing/Brazing/Hot-Butane-Mixed-Gas/Brass-Torch-Pencil-Flame
> 
> is rated at 680w - over twice as powerful.  Would that be described as 
> professional or would I need to go up to a 1200w + version?
> 
> 

B&Q was selling one of these with a pencil torch and a bottle of gas.
Covers most DIY jobs.  Not sure if they still sell them.
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/61690/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Soldering-Brazing/Brazing/Hottest-MAPP/Swirl-Flame-Brazing-Torch-JT539T-MAPP

A.Lee expressed precisely :
> These are highly rated:
> <http://www.transtools.co.uk/store/prod_6883/plumbing-tools/gas-torches/rothenberger-superfire-2-soldering-and-brazing-gas-torch.html>

If you look around you can get them much cheaper than that. I paid 
around £20 for mine.
>
> Very useful as it can be used upside down, unlike many other torches.

Agreed and a very hot flame .

-- 
Regards,
        Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

John Stumbles wrote:
> On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 09:25:28 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:
>
>> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/80471/Hand-Tools/Plumbing-Tools/Soldering-Brazing/Brazing/Hot-Butane-Mixed-Gas/Brass-Torch-Pencil-Flame
>>
>> is rated at 680w - over twice as powerful.  Would that be described
>> as professional or would I need to go up to a 1200w + version?
>
> I've got a Bernzomatic. Can't find my model anywhere but I think this
> must be the current version of it:
> http://www.screwfix.com/prods/94963
> But SFX don't sell the gas canisters!
>
> http://www.bernzomatic.eu/torches2.html shows the canister (fitted to
> a 'pencil torch').
>
> I find this good for up to 28mm and it can deal with very slightly
> dripping pipes if you crank it up to full bore (i.e the drips get
> boiled off before they can reach the joint).

Funny enough I had a look at the Bernzomatic site, very informative.  Had to 
go to B&Q for some fittings (I'm fitting TRV's to all our rads this 
weekend - busmans holiday).

Ended up buying a Bernzomatic UL100 propane pencil torch for £20.  Ideal for 
me, puts out a lot of heat in a  very controllable area.  Three times the 
heat output of my Taymar.


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

In message <ObCyk.56903$E41.3807@text.news.virginmedia.com>, George 
 writes
>
>Taymar blowlamp is crap and a waste of money in terms of buying gas
>canisters,get yourself a propane torch.
The Taymar things are OK if you're not doing much soldering or need an 
emergency repair 'out of hours'. I'd rather have one than nothing but...

  I inherited a 'proper' plumber's torch and cylinder from my father in 
law who was a proper plumber and I've used it plenty of times. It makes 
the job quick and easy compared to the Taymar thing I have which is now 
lurking at the back of the shed.

I also bought a Rothenburger Quickfire a few years ago for a work 
project and I'd recommend those as well for working in small spaces as 
the flame is smaller and less 'scary' but well up to the job.
>
>Great for paint stripping,soldering copper pipes...£10 for a propane
>6.5kilo.
>http://tinyurl.com/3lus5a
>
>

-- 
Clint Sharp

In article <RiUyk.57251$E41.22015@text.news.virginmedia.com>,
   The Medway Handyman  wrote:
> Ended up buying a Bernzomatic UL100 propane pencil torch for £20.  Ideal
> for me, puts out a lot of heat in a  very controllable area.  Three
> times the heat output of my Taymar.

I got a little Bernzomatic X154 recently - it can sit upright on its base
for hands free use - and it's a super little thing. I used it for
repairing a split in some lead.

-- 
*Being healthy is merely the slowest possible rate at which one can die.

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

On Sat, 13 Sep 2008 19:14:57 +0000, The Medway Handyman wrote:

> Ended up buying a Bernzomatic UL100 propane pencil torch for £20.  Ideal
> for me, puts out a lot of heat in a  very controllable area.  Three
> times the heat output of my Taymar.

Not sure which that one is but I had the one with just a brass nozzle
about 10mm dia and valve (no piezo). Fine for 15mm and OK for 22mm but
didn't really hack 28mm. Had a go with a client's[1] piezo ignition
job with the plastic part of the body and smaller stainless nozzle and was
converted.


[1] Christian McArdle, late of this parish (but thankfully not 'late' as
in another prolific contributor: C.McA is still very much kicking, just
not hanging out here any more).

-- 
John Stumbles

I'd give my right arm to be ambidextrous

John Stumbles wrote:

> [1] Christian McArdle, late of this parish (but thankfully not 'late' as
> in another prolific contributor: C.McA is still very much kicking, just
> not hanging out here any more).

Good to hear - wondered what had become of him!