Hi all

What's the current thinking on the best method for sealing the connection at 
the  'gas in' connector and bayonet hose on a gas cooker.

1 turn of appropriate PTFE or compound/paste ?

Cheers

Jim

Jim wrote:
> Hi all
>
> What's the current thinking on the best method for sealing the
> connection at the  'gas in' connector and bayonet hose on a gas
> cooker.
> 1 turn of appropriate PTFE or compound/paste ?
>
> Cheers
>
> Jim

I always use a couple of turns of gas PTFE then test with dilute Fairy.

Si

Jim wrote:

> What's the current thinking on the best method for sealing the connection at 
> the  'gas in' connector and bayonet hose on a gas cooker.
> 
> 1 turn of appropriate PTFE or compound/paste ?

You mean the threaded connection on the cooker itself that the hose 
connects to? Gas PTFE, and a test with leak detector spray.

-- 
Cheers,

John.

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John Rumm wrote:

> Jim wrote:
> 
>> What's the current thinking on the best method for sealing the 
>> connection at the  'gas in' connector and bayonet hose on a gas cooker.

Bayonet connector could do with a wipe of kitchen oil. I wrongly 
connected our hob with a flex hose and I have had problems (not many) 
with it. And kitchen oil has cured it. It is secure now, until I put the 
piping right.

> 1 turn of appropriate PTFE or compound/paste ?
> 
> 
> You mean the threaded connection on the cooker itself that the hose 
> connects to? Gas PTFE, and a test with leak detector spray.

Are those gas detector sprays any good?

As I may have said before, I have worked with many gasses that are much 
more dangerous than North Sea gas.
My standard method for leak detection was along your lines. A bit of 
washing up liquid and some water. But on its own, it can't detect tiny 
leaks, or even not tiny leaks.

My method was to surround the joint with a collar of foam by agitating 
the brush around the joint, until it had a collar of foam bubbles around it.

If you can't get a collar, then you have quite a large leak. The 
escaping gas is blowing the bubble apart before you can see it

If you get a collar, then you have to look out for tiny leaks by 
observing the bubbles. Any growth means that you have a leak. You will 
need a mirror to do this and a bright light.

Take care if you are not certain what you are doing.

Dave

Dave wrote:

>> You mean the threaded connection on the cooker itself that the hose 
>> connects to? Gas PTFE, and a test with leak detector spray.
> 
> Are those gas detector sprays any good?

They are ok, although some work better than others IME... not as good as 
a pressure drop test with a manometer obviously. The main advantage of 
washing up liquid is you know they should not be corrosive for any of 
the components.


-- 
Cheers,

John.

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|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
\=================================================================/

"John Rumm"  wrote in message 
news:juKdnWg315D3JynVnZ2dnUVZ8tSdnZ2d@posted.plusnet...

> The main advantage of washing up liquid is you know they should not be 
> corrosive for any of the components.

Washing up liquid is very corrosive for iron parts.. nearly all of it uses 
salt as a thickening agent.
Its best to wash it off.

Its why you don't use washing up liquid to wash cars.

John Rumm wrote:

> The main advantage of washing up liquid is you know they should not
> be corrosive for any of the components.

You meant the main advantage *over* WUL, presumably?

-- 
Andy

John Rumm wrote:
> Dave wrote:
> 
>>> You mean the threaded connection on the cooker itself that the hose 
>>> connects to? Gas PTFE, and a test with leak detector spray.
>>
>> Are those gas detector sprays any good?
> 
> They are ok, although some work better than others IME... not as good as 
> a pressure drop test with a manometer obviously. The main advantage of 
> washing up liquid is you know they should not be corrosive for any of 

Sorry, that ought to be "advantage *over* washing up liquid"


-- 
Cheers,

John.

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|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
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dennis@home wrote:
> 
> 
> "John Rumm"  wrote in message 
> news:juKdnWg315D3JynVnZ2dnUVZ8tSdnZ2d@posted.plusnet...
> 
>> The main advantage of washing up liquid is you know they should not be 
>> corrosive for any of the components.
> 
> Washing up liquid is very corrosive for iron parts.. nearly all of it 
> uses salt as a thickening agent.
> Its best to wash it off.

yup, typo, sorry.

-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk            |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
\=================================================================/

Andy Wade wrote:
> John Rumm wrote:
> 
>> The main advantage of washing up liquid is you know they should not
>> be corrosive for any of the components.
> 
> You meant the main advantage *over* WUL, presumably?

Indeed...

-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk            |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
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