I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a half at 
a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years. 
I hate to think of the expense to re-clad the house but I can't believe that 
if it is looked after it should last a lot longer.  When it was raining 
yesterday I looked at my cladding which was getting wet yet my shed treated 
with cuprinol Duckback just had the water rolling off it so it got me 
wondering if there was something similar which could be applied to my 
cladding, only I don't want to change the colour.

On searching I came across this product http://www.valhalco.com/ which to my 
uninitiated eyes looked like just what I want, however it's a US company, so 
no help there.  Has anyone any ideas or views on what I can do to preserve 
my Douglas Fir cladding?  Be kind because if there is a solution I may just 
be hiring the Medway Handiman to come and do it for me!!!

Angela

> The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years.

That sounds incredibly short. Did he or she perhaps mean the finish
would only last 10 years before re-treatment?

> On searching I came across this producthttp://www.valhalco.com/

Sounds too good to be true.

Have a look at the Sikkens range of wood treatments, they are highly
regarded.

> http://www.valhalco.com/

Read their website incredibly carefully. Frequent mentions of
"lifetime" and "60 years" - but absolutely nowhere does it claim to be
a "wood preservative" or make any claims about how long it will last
in service. A brilliant piece of misleading spin.

On Sun, 10 Aug 2008 21:20:21 +0100, "Angela"  wrote:

>I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a half at 
>a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years. 

Why on earth did you buy a crap money-pit like that?

wrote in message 
news:ffcd6172-d2a5-48e6-96bb-77d900ed0100@p25g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years.

That sounds incredibly short. Did he or she perhaps mean the finish
would only last 10 years before re-treatment?

> On searching I came across this producthttp://www.valhalco.com/

Sounds too good to be true.

Have a look at the Sikkens range of wood treatments, they are highly
regarded.

Seems they only have coloured finishes.  I tried to email them but the email 
bounced!  Looks good though.  Thanks

"EricP"  wrote in message 
news:phou94hjv2j6orgv657braleeav1lbrh1s@4ax.com...
> On Sun, 10 Aug 2008 21:20:21 +0100, "Angela"  wrote:
>
>>I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a half 
>>at
>>a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years.
>
> Why on earth did you buy a crap money-pit like that?

You know you're absolutely right, thanks for pointing that out to me, I'd be 
much better off living in a council house like you and getting the council 
to fix things.

Angela wrote:
> I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a
> half at a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last
> about 10 years. I hate to think of the expense to re-clad the house
> but I can't believe that if it is looked after it should last a lot
> longer.  When it was raining yesterday I looked at my cladding which
> was getting wet yet my shed treated with cuprinol Duckback just had
> the water rolling off it so it got me wondering if there was
> something similar which could be applied to my cladding, only I don't
> want to change the colour.


> On searching I came across this product http://www.valhalco.com/
> which to my uninitiated eyes looked like just what I want, however
> it's a US company, so no help there.  Has anyone any ideas or views
> on what I can do to preserve my Douglas Fir cladding?  Be kind
> because if there is a solution I may just be hiring the Medway
> Handiman to come and do it for me!!!
> Angela

Angela,

Firstly, if the timber has been fitted in an untreated state or treated with 
a sub-standard process, then I would seriously suggest that you start 
budgeting for its replacement at around the 10 year mark - if not sooner if 
it's in an exposed position with regards to the prevailing weather pattern.

Now as far as treatments are concerned, you could try Sikkens, Cetol (a 
multi coat system)(http://www.sikkens.co.uk/en/Products/Alphabetical/) from 
Akzo Nobel  or Sadolin - these are very good quality, if a little pricey - 
but if applied correctly by an experienced and informed painter, will give 
you a minimum of 5 years protection.

As regards to the colour, any coating will alter the colour of the wood, but 
if my memory serves me well, Cetol can be obtained as a 'clear coat' system 
(but please don't hold me to that) :-)

Try and contact a painters merchants in your area for more information.

As a matter of interest, I have experience in the use of all three of the 
products over some 20 odd years and would recommend the use of them without 
hesitation.

Tanner-'op

Angela wrote:

> I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a
> half at a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last
> about 10 years. I hate to think of the expense to re-clad the house
> but I can't believe that if it is looked after it should last a lot
> longer.  When it was raining yesterday I looked at my cladding which
> was getting wet yet my shed treated with cuprinol Duckback just had
> the water rolling off it so it got me wondering if there was
> something similar which could be applied to my cladding, only I don't
> want to change the colour.
> 
> On searching I came across this product http://www.valhalco.com/
> which to my uninitiated eyes looked like just what I want, however
> it's a US company, so no help there.  Has anyone any ideas or views
> on what I can do to preserve my Douglas Fir cladding?  Be kind
> because if there is a solution I may just be hiring the Medway
> Handiman to come and do it for me!!!
> 
> Angela

Why not just a clear coat of somethiong like Sadolin?

--

On 10 Aug,  
     "Angela"  wrote:

> I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a half at
> a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years. 
> I hate to think of the expense to re-clad the house but I can't believe
> that  if it is looked after it should last a lot longer.  When it was
> raining  yesterday I looked at my cladding which was getting wet yet my
> shed treated  with cuprinol Duckback just had the water rolling off it so
> it got me  wondering if there was something similar which could be applied
> to my  cladding, only I don't want to change the colour.

Neighbour got Douglas fir when his house was built 30 years ago. Still as
good as new. Probably had a couple of coats of B&Qs fimest in the intervening
years. 

Mine was done (at the same time) with softwood cladding, and is still ok, but
has been done with a version of wood preserver a couple of times. it always
seems to absorb the rain, but no rot, and I won't change it until I get round
to improving the insulation behind but I might then refit it).  

It should last a hundred years at least, with the odd coat of preservative
(preferably creosote if you can get it).

-- 
  B Thumbs
  Change lycos to yahoo to reply

On Sun, 10 Aug 2008 23:27:18 +0100, "Angela"  wrote:

>
>"EricP"  wrote in message 
>news:phou94hjv2j6orgv657braleeav1lbrh1s@4ax.com...
>> On Sun, 10 Aug 2008 21:20:21 +0100, "Angela"  wrote:
>>
>>>I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a half 
>>>at
>>>a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years.
>>
>> Why on earth did you buy a crap money-pit like that?
>
>You know you're absolutely right, thanks for pointing that out to me, I'd be 
>much better off living in a council house like you and getting the council 
>to fix things. 
>

Afraid not dear. I own my  house clear and it's in good condition
after 30 years and worth 10x what I paid for it.

Some have sense when buying, others not. 

Never mind  :))

Bye bye.

(Timber merchants can give good discounts for the amount of timber you
will need to wrap up the money-pit.).

lol

me9@privacy.net wrote:
> On 10 Aug,  
>      "Angela"  wrote:
> 
>> I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a half at
>> a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years. 
>> I hate to think of the expense to re-clad the house but I can't believe
>> that  if it is looked after it should last a lot longer.  When it was
>> raining  yesterday I looked at my cladding which was getting wet yet my
>> shed treated  with cuprinol Duckback just had the water rolling off it so
>> it got me  wondering if there was something similar which could be applied
>> to my  cladding, only I don't want to change the colour.
> 
> Neighbour got Douglas fir when his house was built 30 years ago. Still as
> good as new. Probably had a couple of coats of B&Qs fimest in the intervening
> years. 
> 
> Mine was done (at the same time) with softwood cladding, and is still ok, but
> has been done with a version of wood preserver a couple of times. it always
> seems to absorb the rain, but no rot, and I won't change it until I get round
> to improving the insulation behind but I might then refit it).  
> 
> It should last a hundred years at least, with the odd coat of preservative
> (preferably creosote if you can get it).
> 

Doug fir is a more resinous timber than "ordinary softwood" and should 
last a good deal longer. There is no reason for it to rot other than 
where it's in prolonged contact with water. Pretty easy to see where 
that's likely to happen

On 10 Aug, 21:20, "Angela"  wrote:
> I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a half at
> a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years.
> I hate to think of the expense to re-clad the house but I can't believe that
> if it is looked after it should last a lot longer.  When it was raining
> yesterday I looked at my cladding which was getting wet yet my shed treated
> with cuprinol Duckback just had the water rolling off it so it got me
> wondering if there was something similar which could be applied to my
> cladding, only I don't want to change the colour.
>
> On searching I came across this producthttp://www.valhalco.com/which to my
> uninitiated eyes looked like just what I want, however it's a US company, so
> no help there.  Has anyone any ideas or views on what I can do to preserve
> my Douglas Fir cladding?  Be kind because if there is a solution I may just
> be hiring the Medway Handiman to come and do it for me!!!
>
> Angela

Dear Angela
1) the wood will last longer than that particularly if none is in
ground contact
2) to keep it sound you need a) to keep it dry b) to keep UV light
away from it
or
3) impregnate it with chemicals that protect it from fungi and/or keep
it water proof/ resisstant

If this were mine and I wanted long term protection I would
disassemble the cladding and take it to an OS borne double vac plant
that offered the wax water repellant as well as the fungicide and
treat the lot
I would bribe the company to leave it in the bottom of the plant for a
couple of days
take it out and dry it (say a few days)
prime every bit of end grain with Duiux Weathersheild green primer
I personally would then use a Sikkens or Saddolins stain to protect
from UV but if you do not want a stain put up with the UV degradation
that will occur
This will act also as a locus for precursor stainers that attack the
wood and prepare the way for true wood rotting fungi

If you simply don't want any of this aggro put on a spray application
of a water repellent each summer when it is dry

As for the product you rather liked, I note it is
a) not a preservative
b) is applied by a water-based solvent (and hence is not likely to get
into the side grain more than a small fraction of a mm
c) there is no such thing as a life-time gurarntee and anyone who
believes that has to be pretty gullible

I see no claims for it that can be compared with proper CEN, Agrement
or similar standards (eg from the USA equivalent) and when I see
products claiming non-toxicity I get suspicious (NO wood preservatives
are classified as toxic - they are generally only irritants)
Chris G

Dear Angela
1) the wood will last longer than that particularly if none is in
ground contact
2) to keep it sound you need a) to keep it dry b) to keep UV light
away from it
or
3) impregnate it with chemicals that protect it from fungi and/or keep
it water proof/ resisstant

If this were mine and I wanted long term protection I would
disassemble the cladding and take it to an OS borne double vac plant
that offered the wax water repellant as well as the fungicide and
treat the lot
I would bribe the company to leave it in the bottom of the plant for a
couple of days
take it out and dry it (say a few days)
prime every bit of end grain with Duiux Weathersheild green primer
I personally would then use a Sikkens or Saddolins stain to protect
from UV but if you do not want a stain put up with the UV degradation
that will occur
This will act also as a locus for precursor stainers that attack the
wood and prepare the way for true wood rotting fungi

If you simply don't want any of this aggro put on a spray application
of a water repellent each summer when it is dry

As for the product you rather liked, I note it is
a) not a preservative
b) is applied by a water-based solvent (and hence is not likely to get
into the side grain more than a small fraction of a mm
c) there is no such thing as a life-time gurarntee and anyone who
believes that has to be pretty gullible

I see no claims for it that can be compared with proper CEN, Agrement
or similar standards (eg from the USA equivalent) and when I see
products claiming non-toxicity I get suspicious (NO wood preservatives
are classified as toxic - they are generally only irritants)
Chris G

Thanks Chris.  I don't think I would want to go to the extent of removing 
it, I figured if I had to do that I would just replace it with Cedar!  I 
know it will turn silver and I am happy for it to go like that.  I see what 
you mean about a waterbased product, my neighbour in fact is contemplating 
using decking oil, not sure if that is an option!

Angela

me9@privacy.net wrote:
> On 10 Aug,  
>      "Angela"  wrote:
> 
>> I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a half at
>> a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years. 
>> I hate to think of the expense to re-clad the house but I can't believe
>> that  if it is looked after it should last a lot longer.  When it was
>> raining  yesterday I looked at my cladding which was getting wet yet my
>> shed treated  with cuprinol Duckback just had the water rolling off it so
>> it got me  wondering if there was something similar which could be applied
>> to my  cladding, only I don't want to change the colour.
> 
> Neighbour got Douglas fir when his house was built 30 years ago. Still as
> good as new. Probably had a couple of coats of B&Qs fimest in the intervening
> years. 
> 
> Mine was done (at the same time) with softwood cladding, and is still ok, but
> has been done with a version of wood preserver a couple of times. it always
> seems to absorb the rain, but no rot, and I won't change it until I get round
> to improving the insulation behind but I might then refit it).  
> 
> It should last a hundred years at least, with the odd coat of preservative
> (preferably creosote if you can get it).
> 
Thats the point: wood above ground that only get the odd shower on it 
lasts: Its where water collets that problems start.

e.g I have a 15 year old shed I have done NOTHING to apart from refelt 
it twice.

where soil piled up against te base, I have rotten wood. Where a poor 
bit of felt let water through, I have a rotten floorboard.

Everywhere else is 100% OK.


My mother had a cedar wendy house for about - what- 40 years..in fact I 
think its still there ..got  splash of cuprinol every other year. As 
long as the rain dont linger, its fine.

Angela wrote:
> I have a new house that's partly clad with Douglas Fir (just over a half at
> a guess).  The developer said that the cladding would last about 10 years.
> I hate to think of the expense to re-clad the house but I can't believe that
> if it is looked after it should last a lot longer.  When it was raining
> yesterday I looked at my cladding which was getting wet yet my shed treated
> with cuprinol Duckback just had the water rolling off it so it got me
> wondering if there was something similar which could be applied to my
> cladding, only I don't want to change the colour.

You could but it would still turn grey over time from sunlight/UV

If you want to stop this use Sikkens Cetol or Hicksons Restol in a
light shade.

It will make the wood a bit darker but protect it from UV.

Keep a close eye where the ends of the planks are, this is where water
can soak in easiest and problems start.

cheers,
Pete.

angela....just stumbled on your ? boy are you getting the run around, in my 
humble opinion anyway. First Lifetime is distributed by valhala who are 
located in alberta,calgary i think.all hardware stores worthy of that name 
carry it. home hardware for sure.I have been using it for years and have 
used it in many applications decking, fences ,outdoor furniture siding etc.
every application has performed beyond what i dared hope for....after years 
of All the fancy name brands many mentioned in replies you got....I consider 
lifetime to be one of the best things that has happened to outdoor wood. 
about 12 years ago our city applied it to our board walk along our 
waterfront (about 2 miles of it)it still looks like it did on day one and 
has never been retouched,our Ont. natural resources uses it on all there 
stuff because it is completely safe and non polluting even in water.I love 
it so much they could take all the other products off the market as far as 
I'm concerned it originated in sweden I believe ......if you can not find it 
I'd mail it to you even......18.99 makes a gal.in dry form its smaller than 
a cig. package.....good luck girl.....just noticed you are probably writing 
from the u.k.you should still be able to get it it is a international 
company

url:http://myreader.co.uk/msg/1391138932.aspx

On 16 Sep, 05:53, "edith auger" wrote:
> angela....just stumbled on your ? boy are you getting the run around, in my
> humble opinion anyway. First Lifetime is distributed by valhala who are
> located in alberta,calgary i think.all hardware stores worthy of that name
> carry it. home hardware for sure.I have been using it for years and have
> used it in many applications decking, fences ,outdoor furniture siding etc.
> every application has performed beyond what i dared hope for....after years
> of All the fancy name brands many mentioned in replies you got....I consider
> lifetime to be one of the best things that has happened to outdoor wood.
> about 12 years ago our city applied it to our board walk along our
> waterfront (about 2 miles of it)it still looks like it did on day one and
> has never been retouched,our Ont. natural resources uses it on all there
> stuff because it is completely safe and non polluting even in water.I love
> it so much they could take all the other products off the market as far as
> I'm concerned it originated in sweden I believe ......if you can not find it
> I'd mail it to you even......18.99 makes a gal.in dry form its smaller than
> a cig. package.....good luck girl.....just noticed you are probably writing
> from the u.k.you should still be able to get it it is a international
> company
>
> url:http://myreader.co.uk/msg/1391138932.aspx

Edith
Interesting post. What you are not appreciating is that the
environment of the North American continent is different from ours -
cold winter - hot summber and so any of the efficacy tests (and I note
none you have quoted is scientific only anecdotal or empirical) are of
no pertinence to a temperate climate as we have in the UK - at least
at present!
It is illegal to use any form of biocide in the UK (Europe) that has
not been assessed and passed by appropriate scientific testing - the
Control of Pesticides Regulations 1986 started this off then we had
the COSSH regs 1989 and all the follow up stuff.  Most of our really
good garden biocides seem to have disappeared now because of the
recent requirement to prove efficacy and do testing and for many small
firms the cost was just not worth it.
If the recommended product is not approved either it is so mild as not
to be effective (and how can it be effective as a PRESERVATIVE if it
is water based and inorganic?)or not a preservative at all but simply
a covering.
Chris G