Yet another one for your comments....


[[image:Wallplugs 175-2.jpg|400px]]


==Plugs for solid masonry==
===Standard plug===
[[image:Basic wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
The standard moulded plastic wallplug is by far the most popular
option. These come with recommended hole and [[Screws|screw]] sizes,
and are simple to use.

Different sizes are often colour coded, but different brands don't all
follow the same colour code.

===Fibre plugs===
[[image:Fibre wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
Fibre plugs are straight sided compacted fibre plugs.

===Lipless plug===
[[image:Lipless wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
Plugs with no lip are good when using 2 moulded plugs in a hole.

===Sticks===
[[image:Image coming.jpg|thumb]]
Long sticks are no longer common, but are still available. This allows
you to cut a plug of any length. They come in plastic or fibre, about
a foot long.

===Sheet metal plugs===
These are made from contorted thin sheet metal, and are fire
resistant. In soft masonry they have a lower pullout rating than a
plastic plug.

===Metal expanding plug===
These use 2 cast halves of metal than expand when a bolt is [[Screws|
screwed]] in. Not suited to use with regular wood [[screws]]. These
put high forces on the masonry, so should not be used near edges.


==Plugs for hollow walls==

===Expanding plastic plug===
The cheapest type of hollow wall plug, these look similar to regular
plastic plugs, but expand behind the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]]
when [[Screws|screwed]] into. Some can be used with both solid and
[[Partition Wall|hollow walls]].

===Redidrive===
[[image:Redi wallplug 176-3.jpg|thumb]]
Available in metal and plastic, these [[Screws|screw]] into the
[[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]].

===Hammer in===
[[image:Hammer in wall plugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]
2 sheet metal legs spread when [[Screws|screw]] inserted. No hole is
drilled, they're just [[Hammers|hammered]] into position, making work
fast. Load rating so-so.

===Spring & gravity toggle===
[[image:Toggle wallplugs 177-3.jpg|thumb]]
Both types of toggle use a metal bar behind the [[Sheet Materials|
plasterboard]] to take the load. Gives a fairly good load rating for
static loads. With dynamic loads, such as coathooks, these tend to
gradually eat through the plasterboard until they eventually fail.

===Lightweight things===
[[image:Lightweight expanding walplugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]

===Expanding bolt===
[[image|These wallplugs 178-3.jpg|thumb]]



==Better than hollow wall plugs==
Hollow wall plug fixings are only ever as strong as the [[Sheet
Materials|plasterboard]]. Where greater strength is necessary:
* fix through to solid masonry behind the plasterboard, if there is
any
* fix to an upright or nogging on [[Partition Wall|frame walls]]
* Replace the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] with [[Sheet
Materials#Plywood|plywood]], or fit ply to the surface
* Fix to floor instead







==Misnomers==
Rawlplug is a well known brand of wallplug.
'Raw plug' is often heard too.


==Methods==
The standard method is to drill the hole size recommended, blow dust
from the hole, insert the plug full depth, and use a [[Screws|screw]]
of the thickness recommended. Of course this isn't the only option.

===Other screw sizes===
Where grip is likely to be poor, a thicker than recommended [[Screws|
screw]] can increase compression on the plug and thus grip.

A thinner than recommneded [[Screws|screw]] can be used to ease
driving where the recommended size is too tight.

===Reduced hole size===
Soft masonry tends to produce a hoole bigger than the drill bit. A
drill bit half a mm smaller helps keep things tight.

===2 plugs===
For a stronger fixing, a deep hole & 2 plugs are used. This is
especially useful in soft masonry, and where the surface layer is
weak, eg crumbly plaster.

===Packing===
Uneven or oversize holes will need packing to make them work. This is
easiest done with matchsticks, but split wallplugs are also good.


==Troubles==
===It just keeps turning===
If a wallplug just turns instead of tightening, the following
sometimes work:

* Blow dust out and reinsert plug
* Use a bigger plug that fits tighter
* Fill hole with filler, and when set re-drill
* Pack something round the plug before reinserting
* [[Hammers|Hammer]] matchsticks into all available gaps. Matchsticks
leave a lot of gaps so you need to pack every avaailable gap. Insert
[[Screws|screw]], remove it again and hammer more matchsticsk in. Now
you'll get a good strong bite.
* Insert resin glue into hole, refit plug, let set.

===Hole is oversize or misshapen==
Either:
* Drill deeper and use 2 plugs to get a deep fixing.
* Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again
tomorrow.
* Use resin, with or without plug

===Hole keeps crumbling===
Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again
tomorrow.

===Plug & screw pulls out===
If the whole fixing pulls out after the [[Screws|screw]] is in, then
the plug & screw are too small for the hole.
* Pack the plug
* Use a much thicker screw
* Use a thicker plug if it'll fit
* fill the hole and retry once set
* Use resin

===Screw jams===
[[Screws|Screw]] too thick for plug & hole. Use a thinner screw, or
possibly a thinner plug or slightly increased hole size.

===Hollow wall plug pulled out===
That's life, [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] isn't very strong. Some
hollow plugs grip more area of plasterboard than others, but if these
aren't tough enough you'll need to fix to something stronger than
plasterboard. That could be
* solid masonry behind a gap behind the plasterboard
* [[Partition Wall|wood or metal frame]]
* [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|sheet ply]] on the wall
* fix to the floor
* in extremis build a wood frame fixed to floor & ceiling, and fix to
that.
* or use a free standing appliance instead


==When plugs don't work==
There are a couple of wall materials where plugs won't work no matter
what. These include earth & straw walls. In these cases another fixing
method altogether is needed, normally one where the load is supported
by the floor instead of the wall.

In some cases using a timber frame fixed to floor and ceiling is about
the only safe option. This is true for example of a large screen TV
mounted to the wall.


==Plug Material==
Plastic is most popular and the cheapest. Plastics are vulnerable to
heat, and in a fire all plastic plugged fixings can be exected to
collapse. Plastics aren't affteced by water, making them good for
outdoor use.

Nylon plugs are tougher than lower cost plastic, and support a greater
load.

Metal plugs have much better fire resistance, but are vulnerable to
rust outdoors. They give a weaker fixing than plastic in soft masonry,
and a stronger fixing than plastic in high strength masonry.

Wood plugs have better fire resistance than plastic. They're
vulnerable to [[Wood Rot|rot]] if they get wet, so not good for
outdoor use.

Fibre plugs are tougher than plastic



==Wallplug substitutes==
===Commercial===
Dowel

===Ad hoc===
Bit of wood split off. [[Hammers|Hammer]] more slivers of wood into
any gaps.

Matchsticks - [[Hammers|hammer]] in & snap off. Pack them tight,
[[Screws|screw]] in, remove screw and repack.

Rolled paper - not a great performer but can work.

Card - folded card works if packed well enough.

Bits of plastic - another poor performer but can work if packed tight
enough, ie they need to be [[Hammers|hammered]] in.




==Alternatives==
* Frame fixings
* [[Screws|Masonry screw]]
* [[Nails|Masonry nail]]
* Plastic aerated concrete nail
* [[Adhesive|Resin]] fixing - higher load rating than any plug type
* Wedge (remove some mortar from between bricks,
* [[Hammers|hammer]] in wooden wedge)
* In extremis, fix to floor or ceiling instead.


==See Also==
* [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]
* [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]



[[Category:Fixings]]


NT

meow2222@care2.com wrote:
> Yet another one for your comments....
>
>
> [[image:Wallplugs 175-2.jpg|400px]]
>
>
> ==Plugs for solid masonry==
> ===Standard plug===
> [[image:Basic wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
> The standard moulded plastic wallplug is by far the most popular
> option. These come with recommended hole and [[Screws|screw]] sizes,
> and are simple to use.
>
> Different sizes are often colour coded, but different brands don't all
> follow the same colour code.
>
> ===Fibre plugs===
> [[image:Fibre wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
> Fibre plugs are straight sided compacted fibre plugs.

Are you sure they exist anymore?  Searching the SF site for fibre plugs 
reveals nothing.
>
> ===Lipless plug===
> [[image:Lipless wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
> Plugs with no lip are good when using 2 moulded plugs in a hole.

Don't understand that at all.  Lip less plugs are usefull in tiles though.
>
> ===Sticks===
> [[image:Image coming.jpg|thumb]]
> Long sticks are no longer common, but are still available. This allows
> you to cut a plug of any length. They come in plastic or fibre, about
> a foot long.

So rare (& useless) that its not worth clouding the wiki.
>
> ===Sheet metal plugs===
> These are made from contorted thin sheet metal, and are fire
> resistant. In soft masonry they have a lower pullout rating than a
> plastic plug.

?????  WTF are these?  Never seen them or heard of them.
>
> ===Metal expanding plug===
> These use 2 cast halves of metal than expand when a bolt is [[Screws|
> screwed]] in. Not suited to use with regular wood [[screws]]. These
> put high forces on the masonry, so should not be used near edges.

Anchor, not plug if I read your description properly.  What about the Multi 
Monte?  Far superior to any sleeve anchor.


What about hammer fixings & frame fixers?
>
>
> ==Plugs for hollow walls==
>
> ===Expanding plastic plug===
> The cheapest type of hollow wall plug, these look similar to regular
> plastic plugs, but expand behind the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]]
> when [[Screws|screwed]] into. Some can be used with both solid and
> [[Partition Wall|hollow walls]].

The universal plug deserves much more coverage.
>
> ===Redidrive===
> [[image:Redi wallplug 176-3.jpg|thumb]]
> Available in metal and plastic, these [[Screws|screw]] into the
> [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]].
>
> ===Hammer in===
> [[image:Hammer in wall plugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]
> 2 sheet metal legs spread when [[Screws|screw]] inserted. No hole is
> drilled, they're just [[Hammers|hammered]] into position, making work
> fast. Load rating so-so.

WTF are these?  Again SF search reveals nothing.
>
> ===Spring & gravity toggle===
> [[image:Toggle wallplugs 177-3.jpg|thumb]]
> Both types of toggle use a metal bar behind the [[Sheet Materials|
> plasterboard]] to take the load. Gives a fairly good load rating for
> static loads. With dynamic loads, such as coathooks, these tend to
> gradually eat through the plasterboard until they eventually fail.

How about the hollow wall anchor? 
http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11143/Fixings/Cavity-Fixings/Hollow-Wall-Anchor-5-x-72mm-16-32mm-Pack-of-10
>
> ===Lightweight things===
> [[image:Lightweight expanding walplugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]
>
> ===Expanding bolt===
> [[image|These wallplugs 178-3.jpg|thumb]]
>
>
>
> ==Better than hollow wall plugs==
> Hollow wall plug fixings are only ever as strong as the [[Sheet
> Materials|plasterboard]]. Where greater strength is necessary:
> * fix through to solid masonry behind the plasterboard, if there is
> any
> * fix to an upright or nogging on [[Partition Wall|frame walls]]
> * Replace the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] with [[Sheet
> Materials#Plywood|plywood]], or fit ply to the surface
> * Fix to floor instead
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==Misnomers==
> Rawlplug is a well known brand of wallplug.
> 'Raw plug' is often heard too.
>
>
> ==Methods==
> The standard method is to drill the hole size recommended, blow dust
> from the hole, insert the plug full depth, and use a [[Screws|screw]]
> of the thickness recommended. Of course this isn't the only option.
>
> ===Other screw sizes===
> Where grip is likely to be poor, a thicker than recommended [[Screws|
> screw]] can increase compression on the plug and thus grip.
>
> A thinner than recommneded [[Screws|screw]] can be used to ease
> driving where the recommended size is too tight.
>
> ===Reduced hole size===
> Soft masonry tends to produce a hoole bigger than the drill bit. A
> drill bit half a mm smaller helps keep things tight.

Hole.

>
> ===2 plugs===
> For a stronger fixing, a deep hole & 2 plugs are used. This is
> especially useful in soft masonry, and where the surface layer is
> weak, eg crumbly plaster.
>
> ===Packing===
> Uneven or oversize holes will need packing to make them work. This is
> easiest done with matchsticks, but split wallplugs are also good.

What about Fischer Wet N Fix?
>
>
> ==Troubles==
> ===It just keeps turning===
> If a wallplug just turns instead of tightening, the following
> sometimes work:
>
> * Blow dust out and reinsert plug
> * Use a bigger plug that fits tighter
> * Fill hole with filler, and when set re-drill
> * Pack something round the plug before reinserting
> * [[Hammers|Hammer]] matchsticks into all available gaps. Matchsticks
> leave a lot of gaps so you need to pack every avaailable gap. Insert
> [[Screws|screw]], remove it again and hammer more matchsticsk in. Now
> you'll get a good strong bite.
> * Insert resin glue into hole, refit plug, let set.
>
> ===Hole is oversize or misshapen==
> Either:
> * Drill deeper and use 2 plugs to get a deep fixing.
> * Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again
> tomorrow.
> * Use resin, with or without plug
>
> ===Hole keeps crumbling===
> Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again
> tomorrow.
>
> ===Plug & screw pulls out===
> If the whole fixing pulls out after the [[Screws|screw]] is in, then
> the plug & screw are too small for the hole.
> * Pack the plug
> * Use a much thicker screw
> * Use a thicker plug if it'll fit
> * fill the hole and retry once set
> * Use resin
>
> ===Screw jams===
> [[Screws|Screw]] too thick for plug & hole. Use a thinner screw, or
> possibly a thinner plug or slightly increased hole size.
>
> ===Hollow wall plug pulled out===
> That's life, [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] isn't very strong. Some
> hollow plugs grip more area of plasterboard than others, but if these
> aren't tough enough you'll need to fix to something stronger than
> plasterboard. That could be
> * solid masonry behind a gap behind the plasterboard
> * [[Partition Wall|wood or metal frame]]
> * [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|sheet ply]] on the wall
> * fix to the floor
> * in extremis build a wood frame fixed to floor & ceiling, and fix to
> that.
> * or use a free standing appliance instead
>
>
> ==When plugs don't work==
> There are a couple of wall materials where plugs won't work no matter
> what. These include earth & straw walls. In these cases another fixing
> method altogether is needed, normally one where the load is supported
> by the floor instead of the wall.
>
> In some cases using a timber frame fixed to floor and ceiling is about
> the only safe option. This is true for example of a large screen TV
> mounted to the wall.
>
>
> ==Plug Material==
> Plastic is most popular and the cheapest. Plastics are vulnerable to
> heat, and in a fire all plastic plugged fixings can be exected to
> collapse. Plastics aren't affteced by water, making them good for
> outdoor use.
>
> Nylon plugs are tougher than lower cost plastic, and support a greater
> load.
>
> Metal plugs have much better fire resistance, but are vulnerable to
> rust outdoors. They give a weaker fixing than plastic in soft masonry,
> and a stronger fixing than plastic in high strength masonry.
>
> Wood plugs have better fire resistance than plastic. They're
> vulnerable to [[Wood Rot|rot]] if they get wet, so not good for
> outdoor use.
>
> Fibre plugs are tougher than plastic
>
>
>
> ==Wallplug substitutes==
> ===Commercial===
> Dowel
>
> ===Ad hoc===
> Bit of wood split off. [[Hammers|Hammer]] more slivers of wood into
> any gaps.
>
> Matchsticks - [[Hammers|hammer]] in & snap off. Pack them tight,
> [[Screws|screw]] in, remove screw and repack.
>
> Rolled paper - not a great performer but can work.
>
> Card - folded card works if packed well enough.
>
> Bits of plastic - another poor performer but can work if packed tight
> enough, ie they need to be [[Hammers|hammered]] in.
>
>
>
>
> ==Alternatives==
> * Frame fixings
> * [[Screws|Masonry screw]]
> * [[Nails|Masonry nail]]
> * Plastic aerated concrete nail
> * [[Adhesive|Resin]] fixing - higher load rating than any plug type
> * Wedge (remove some mortar from between bricks,
> * [[Hammers|hammer]] in wooden wedge)
> * In extremis, fix to floor or ceiling instead.
>
>
> ==See Also==
> * [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]
> * [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]
>
>
>
> [[Category:Fixings]]
>
>
> NT

On Jul 16, 12:40 am, "The Medway Handyman"
 wrote:
> meow2...@care2.com wrote:
> > Yet another one for your comments....
>
> > [[image:Wallplugs 175-2.jpg|400px]]
>
> > ==Plugs for solid masonry==
> > ===Standard plug===
> > [[image:Basic wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
> > The standard moulded plastic wallplug is by far the most popular
> > option. These come with recommended hole and [[Screws|screw]] sizes,
> > and are simple to use.
>
> > Different sizes are often colour coded, but different brands don't all
> > follow the same colour code.
>
> > ===Fibre plugs===
> > [[image:Fibre wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
> > Fibre plugs are straight sided compacted fibre plugs.
>
> Are you sure they exist anymore?  Searching the SF site for fibre plugs
> reveals nothing.

People have them in their toolboxes, and I thought I'd seen them on
sale too, cant be sure though.


> > ===Lipless plug===
> > [[image:Lipless wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
> > Plugs with no lip are good when using 2 moulded plugs in a hole.
>
> Don't understand that at all.  Lip less plugs are usefull in tiles though.

If you use lipped plugs when putting 2 in a hole, the deeper one often
jams.


> > ===Sticks===
> > [[image:Image coming.jpg|thumb]]
> > Long sticks are no longer common, but are still available. This allows
> > you to cut a plug of any length. They come in plastic or fibre, about
> > a foot long.
>
> So rare (& useless) that its not worth clouding the wiki.

Seems like a practical way to do deep holes to me.


> > ===Sheet metal plugs===
> > These are made from contorted thin sheet metal, and are fire
> > resistant. In soft masonry they have a lower pullout rating than a
> > plastic plug.
>
> ?????  WTF are these?  Never seen them or heard of them.

will find another name for them soon, but theyre made of sheet metal
twisted about.


> > ===Metal expanding plug===
> > These use 2 cast halves of metal than expand when a bolt is [[Screws|
> > screwed]] in. Not suited to use with regular wood [[screws]]. These
> > put high forces on the masonry, so should not be used near edges.

> Anchor, not plug if I read your description properly.

right


  What about the Multi
> Monte?  Far superior to any sleeve anchor.

brand of masonry screw, now mentioned.


> What about hammer fixings & frame fixers?

done


> > ==Plugs for hollow walls==
>
> > ===Expanding plastic plug===
> > The cheapest type of hollow wall plug, these look similar to regular
> > plastic plugs, but expand behind the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]]
> > when [[Screws|screwed]] into. Some can be used with both solid and
> > [[Partition Wall|hollow walls]].
>
> The universal plug deserves much more coverage.

yes - done


> > ===Redidrive===
> > [[image:Redi wallplug 176-3.jpg|thumb]]
> > Available in metal and plastic, these [[Screws|screw]] into the
> > [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]].
>
> > ===Hammer in===
> > [[image:Hammer in wall plugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]
> > 2 sheet metal legs spread when [[Screws|screw]] inserted. No hole is
> > drilled, they're just [[Hammers|hammered]] into position, making work
> > fast. Load rating so-so.
>
> WTF are these?  Again SF search reveals nothing.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/64255/Fixings/Cavity-Fixings/Hammer-In-Plaster-Board-Fixings-Pack-of-25


> > ===Spring & gravity toggle===
> > [[image:Toggle wallplugs 177-3.jpg|thumb]]
> > Both types of toggle use a metal bar behind the [[Sheet Materials|
> > plasterboard]] to take the load. Gives a fairly good load rating for
> > static loads. With dynamic loads, such as coathooks, these tend to
> > gradually eat through the plasterboard until they eventually fail.
>
> How about the hollow wall anchor?http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11143/Fixings/Cavity-Fixings/Hollow-Wal...

already there, I've renamed it


> > ===Lightweight things===
> > [[image:Lightweight expanding walplugs 176-3.jpg|thumb]]
>
> > ===Expanding bolt===
> > [[image|These wallplugs 178-3.jpg|thumb]]
>
> > ==Better than hollow wall plugs==
> > Hollow wall plug fixings are only ever as strong as the [[Sheet
> > Materials|plasterboard]]. Where greater strength is necessary:
> > * fix through to solid masonry behind the plasterboard, if there is
> > any
> > * fix to an upright or nogging on [[Partition Wall|frame walls]]
> > * Replace the [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] with [[Sheet
> > Materials#Plywood|plywood]], or fit ply to the surface
> > * Fix to floor instead
>
> > ==Misnomers==
> > Rawlplug is a well known brand of wallplug.
> > 'Raw plug' is often heard too.
>
> > ==Methods==
> > The standard method is to drill the hole size recommended, blow dust
> > from the hole, insert the plug full depth, and use a [[Screws|screw]]
> > of the thickness recommended. Of course this isn't the only option.
>
> > ===Other screw sizes===
> > Where grip is likely to be poor, a thicker than recommended [[Screws|
> > screw]] can increase compression on the plug and thus grip.
>
> > A thinner than recommneded [[Screws|screw]] can be used to ease
> > driving where the recommended size is too tight.
>
> > ===Reduced hole size===
> > Soft masonry tends to produce a hoole bigger than the drill bit. A
> > drill bit half a mm smaller helps keep things tight.
>
> Hole.
>
>
>
> > ===2 plugs===
> > For a stronger fixing, a deep hole & 2 plugs are used. This is
> > especially useful in soft masonry, and where the surface layer is
> > weak, eg crumbly plaster.
>
> > ===Packing===
> > Uneven or oversize holes will need packing to make them work. This is
> > easiest done with matchsticks, but split wallplugs are also good.
>
> What about Fischer Wet N Fix?

filler discs already there, have added the brand name


> > ==Troubles==
> > ===It just keeps turning===
> > If a wallplug just turns instead of tightening, the following
> > sometimes work:
>
> > * Blow dust out and reinsert plug
> > * Use a bigger plug that fits tighter
> > * Fill hole with filler, and when set re-drill
> > * Pack something round the plug before reinserting
> > * [[Hammers|Hammer]] matchsticks into all available gaps. Matchsticks
> > leave a lot of gaps so you need to pack every avaailable gap. Insert
> > [[Screws|screw]], remove it again and hammer more matchsticsk in. Now
> > you'll get a good strong bite.
> > * Insert resin glue into hole, refit plug, let set.
>
> > ===Hole is oversize or misshapen==
> > Either:
> > * Drill deeper and use 2 plugs to get a deep fixing.
> > * Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again
> > tomorrow.
> > * Use resin, with or without plug
>
> > ===Hole keeps crumbling===
> > Blow all debris out of hole, fill with interior filler, try again
> > tomorrow.
>
> > ===Plug & screw pulls out===
> > If the whole fixing pulls out after the [[Screws|screw]] is in, then
> > the plug & screw are too small for the hole.
> > * Pack the plug
> > * Use a much thicker screw
> > * Use a thicker plug if it'll fit
> > * fill the hole and retry once set
> > * Use resin
>
> > ===Screw jams===
> > [[Screws|Screw]] too thick for plug & hole. Use a thinner screw, or
> > possibly a thinner plug or slightly increased hole size.
>
> > ===Hollow wall plug pulled out===
> > That's life, [[Sheet Materials|plasterboard]] isn't very strong. Some
> > hollow plugs grip more area of plasterboard than others, but if these
> > aren't tough enough you'll need to fix to something stronger than
> > plasterboard. That could be
> > * solid masonry behind a gap behind the plasterboard
> > * [[Partition Wall|wood or metal frame]]
> > * [[Sheet Materials#Plywood|sheet ply]] on the wall
> > * fix to the floor
> > * in extremis build a wood frame fixed to floor & ceiling, and fix to
> > that.
> > * or use a free standing appliance instead
>
> > ==When plugs don't work==
> > There are a couple of wall materials where plugs won't work no matter
> > what. These include earth & straw walls. In these cases another fixing
> > method altogether is needed, normally one where the load is supported
> > by the floor instead of the wall.
>
> > In some cases using a timber frame fixed to floor and ceiling is about
> > the only safe option. This is true for example of a large screen TV
> > mounted to the wall.
>
> > ==Plug Material==
> > Plastic is most popular and the cheapest. Plastics are vulnerable to
> > heat, and in a fire all plastic plugged fixings can be exected to
> > collapse. Plastics aren't affteced by water, making them good for
> > outdoor use.
>
> > Nylon plugs are tougher than lower cost plastic, and support a greater
> > load.
>
> > Metal plugs have much better fire resistance, but are vulnerable to
> > rust outdoors. They give a weaker fixing than plastic in soft masonry,
> > and a stronger fixing than plastic in high strength masonry.
>
> > Wood plugs have better fire resistance than plastic. They're
> > vulnerable to [[Wood Rot|rot]] if they get wet, so not good for
> > outdoor use.
>
> > Fibre plugs are tougher than plastic
>
> > ==Wallplug substitutes==
> > ===Commercial===
> > Dowel
>
> > ===Ad hoc===
> > Bit of wood split off. [[Hammers|Hammer]] more slivers of wood into
> > any gaps.
>
> > Matchsticks - [[Hammers|hammer]] in & snap off. Pack them tight,
> > [[Screws|screw]] in, remove screw and repack.
>
> > Rolled paper - not a great performer but can work.
>
> > Card - folded card works if packed well enough.
>
> > Bits of plastic - another poor performer but can work if packed tight
> > enough, ie they need to be [[Hammers|hammered]] in.
>
> > ==Alternatives==
> > * Frame fixings
> > * [[Screws|Masonry screw]]
> > * [[Nails|Masonry nail]]
> > * Plastic aerated concrete nail
> > * [[Adhesive|Resin]] fixing - higher load rating than any plug type
> > * Wedge (remove some mortar from between bricks,
> > * [[Hammers|hammer]] in wooden wedge)
> > * In extremis, fix to floor or ceiling instead.
>
> > ==See Also==
> > * [[Special:Allpages|Wiki Contents]]
> > * [[Special:Categories|Wiki Subject Categories]]
>
> > [[Category:Fixings]]
>
> > NT


cheers - I reckon theres still a fair bit more to add


NT

meow2222@care2.com wrote:
<SNIP>>
>
> cheers - I reckon theres still a fair bit more to add
>

You dont realise what a complicated subject it is until you try to write it 
all down.


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

The Medway Handyman wrote:
> meow2222@care2.com wrote:
> <SNIP>>
>> cheers - I reckon theres still a fair bit more to add
>>
> 
> You dont realise what a complicated subject it is until you try to write it 
> all down.
> 
> 

My sister visited a company that made moulds for wall plugs (and many 
other products). Her description of the complexity defied belief - all 
sorts of machining, spark erosion, acid undercuts (or whatever they are 
called) to get the complex shapes. I wished that I had been the one to 
make the visit...

-- 
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious 
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
<www.thyromind.info> <www.thyroiduk.org> <www.altsupportthyroid.org>

On 2008-07-16 08:52:05 +0100, Rod  said:

> The Medway Handyman wrote:
>> meow2222@care2.com wrote:
>> <SNIP>>
>>> cheers - I reckon theres still a fair bit more to add
>>> 
>> 
>> You dont realise what a complicated subject it is until you try to 
>> write it all down.
>> 
>> 
> 
> My sister visited a company that made moulds for wall plugs (and many 
> other products). Her description of the complexity defied belief - all 
> sorts of machining, spark erosion, acid undercuts (or whatever they are 
> called) to get the complex shapes. I wished that I had been the one to 
> make the visit...

I know.   It's always annoying when girls get to go on things like 
that.  Bet she had a train set as a child :-)   My wife did.

The Medway Handyman coughed up some electrons that declared:

> meow2222@care2.com wrote:
>> Yet another one for your comments....
>>
>>
>> [[image:Wallplugs 175-2.jpg|400px]]
>>
>>
>> ==Plugs for solid masonry==
>> ===Standard plug===
>> [[image:Basic wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
>> The standard moulded plastic wallplug is by far the most popular
>> option. These come with recommended hole and [[Screws|screw]] sizes,
>> and are simple to use.
>>
>> Different sizes are often colour coded, but different brands don't all
>> follow the same colour code.
>>
>> ===Fibre plugs===
>> [[image:Fibre wallplug 175-2.jpg|thumb]]
>> Fibre plugs are straight sided compacted fibre plugs.
> 
> Are you sure they exist anymore?  Searching the SF site for fibre plugs
> reveals nothing.

http://www.toolfastdirect.co.uk/acatalog/Fibre_Rawlplugs.html

I have bought them from B&Q but that was a few years ago. There are some
situations that I prefer them over plastic. For example, it is possible to
get a very light but firm fixing in 13m plasterboard using fibre plugs,
better than I had managed with plastic.

This is useful if you are putting something not too heavy on dot'n'dab PB
with a significant air gap behind the PB and sufficiently long screws to
reach the brick/blockwork are just too big for the job. Don't hang yer
kitchen cabinets like this!!!

Cheers

Tim