On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done 
that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather 
thick I must say but went on eventually.

Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its dry 
be needed?

Thanks Sam
btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But 
dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol

Samantha Booth wrote:

> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done 
> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather 
> thick I must say but went on eventually.
> 
> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its dry 
> be needed?
> 
> Thanks Sam
> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But 
> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol 

The only difference between you and I, is that you don't have as many 
dangly bits. The brain is the same and the ability is the same. You have 
asked inteligent questions and acted on them. I, along with others 
salute you for your DIY skills.  Don't belittle yourself.

Dave

PS let me know how you go on with the asthma, as I was born with it in 
1946. It looked like I got rid of it when I was about 13 years old, but 
recent events tell me that I still suffer the effects of it. Wife is 
burning one of those smelly candles and while it is not collapsing my 
lungs, is not doing me any good.

Dave

"Dave"  wrote in message 
news:0oedneYDvsyHdvLVnZ2dnUVZ8h-dnZ2d@bt.com...
> Samantha Booth wrote:
>
>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done 
>> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather 
>> thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>
>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its 
>> dry be needed?
>>
>> Thanks Sam
>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But 
>> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>
> The only difference between you and I, is that you don't have as many 
> dangly bits. The brain is the same and the ability is the same. You have 
> asked inteligent questions and acted on them. I, along with others salute 
> you for your DIY skills.  Don't belittle yourself.
>
> Dave
>
> PS let me know how you go on with the asthma, as I was born with it in 
> 1946. It looked like I got rid of it when I was about 13 years old, but 
> recent events tell me that I still suffer the effects of it. Wife is 
> burning one of those smelly candles and while it is not collapsing my 
> lungs, is not doing me any good.
>
> Dave

Awww thanks Dave. I feel like I am being a pain sometimes on here asking so 
many questions. I also feel dumb as I dont know how to DIY but want to try. 
I know I will never be Tommy Walsh but I dont want to stop trying.
I have an inhaler now and when I get short of breathe I use it and it 
settles down fine. Thanks for asking

On 2008-07-05 22:08:29 +0100, "Samantha Booth" 
 said:

> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done
> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather
> thick I must say but went on eventually.
> 
> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its dry
> be needed?
> 
> Thanks Sam
> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But
> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol

Shouldn't be necessary, Sam.

However, no harm to do it again if you would feel more comfortable doing it.

In message <g4oqaq$tkc$1@registered.motzarella.org>, Samantha Booth 
 writes
>
>"Dave"  wrote in message
>news:0oedneYDvsyHdvLVnZ2dnUVZ8h-dnZ2d@bt.com...
>> Samantha Booth wrote:
>>
>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done
>>> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather
>>> thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>
>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its
>>> dry be needed?
>>>
>>> Thanks Sam
>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But
>>> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>
>> The only difference between you and I, is that you don't have as many
>> dangly bits. The brain is the same and the ability is the same. You have
>> asked inteligent questions and acted on them. I, along with others salute
>> you for your DIY skills.  Don't belittle yourself.
>>
>> Dave
>>
>> PS let me know how you go on with the asthma, as I was born with it in
>> 1946. It looked like I got rid of it when I was about 13 years old, but
>> recent events tell me that I still suffer the effects of it. Wife is
>> burning one of those smelly candles and while it is not collapsing my
>> lungs, is not doing me any good.
>>
>> Dave
>
>Awww thanks Dave. I feel like I am being a pain sometimes on here asking so
>many questions.

I don't think anybody minds people asking lots of questions, it's more 
when people ask stupid questions (ask first, think later sort of thing)


-- 
geoff

On Jul 5, 10:50 pm, "Samantha Booth" 
wrote:
> "Dave"  wrote in message
>
> news:0oedneYDvsyHdvLVnZ2dnUVZ8h-dnZ2d@bt.com...
> > Samantha Booth wrote:

> >> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done
> >> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather
> >> thick I must say but went on eventually.
>
> >> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its
> >> dry be needed?

I cant see a 2nd coat being any benefit. You've already glued anything
loose together and clogged the pores.

> >> Thanks Sam
> >> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But
> >> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol

Keep an eye out for some of the wackier threads :)


> Awww thanks Dave. I feel like I am being a pain sometimes on here asking so
> many questions. I also feel dumb as I dont know how to DIY but want to try.
> I know I will never be Tommy Walsh but I dont want to stop trying.

Thats what the group is for.

Obligatory plug: we have a ukdiy wiki with over 100 articles on diy:
http://www.wiki.diyfaq.org.uk/index.php?title=Special:Allpages


NT

Samantha Booth wrote:
> "Dave"  wrote in message 
> news:0oedneYDvsyHdvLVnZ2dnUVZ8h-dnZ2d@bt.com...
> 
>>Samantha Booth wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done 
>>>that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather 
>>>thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>
>>>Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its 
>>>dry be needed?
>>>
>>>Thanks Sam
>>>btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But 
>>>dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>
>>The only difference between you and I, is that you don't have as many 
>>dangly bits. The brain is the same and the ability is the same. You have 
>>asked inteligent questions and acted on them. I, along with others salute 
>>you for your DIY skills.  Don't belittle yourself.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>PS let me know how you go on with the asthma, as I was born with it in 
>>1946. It looked like I got rid of it when I was about 13 years old, but 
>>recent events tell me that I still suffer the effects of it. Wife is 
>>burning one of those smelly candles and while it is not collapsing my 
>>lungs, is not doing me any good.
>>
>>Dave
> 
> 
> Awww thanks Dave. I feel like I am being a pain sometimes on here asking so 
> many questions. I also feel dumb as I dont know how to DIY but want to try. 
> I know I will never be Tommy Walsh but I dont want to stop trying.


No. You are not being a pain

I used to work in the aerospace industry on development. Hands on the 
aircraft and I had a team of about 50 men to look after. Most of  them 
had never worked on an aircraft before (I think I was stitched up here. 
because of my knowledge of the aircraft) and my first words to them was 
  'There is no such thing as a stupid question. If you are in doubt, 
then please ask. There are no lay-by's in the sky. If the aircraft goes 
sick, it has to come back to ground and I would rather it came back 
under its own steam'.

Work to those rules and you can't go wrong.

 > I have an inhaler now and when I get short of breathe I use it and it
 > settles down fine. Thanks for asking

I never had to use one of those. Not sure if they were available when I 
had the problem. It's just that I can pass a woman with a strong 
perfume, or a smoker and my lungs will collapse.

Dave

Dave wrote:
> Samantha Booth wrote:
>
>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have
>> done that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go
>> on rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>
>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when
>> its dry be needed?
>>
>> Thanks Sam
>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part
>> pva. But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>
> The only difference between you and I, is that you don't have as many
> dangly bits. The brain is the same and the ability is the same.

Actually mens & womens brains do process information in different ways, men 
are better able to focus on one task & have a greater grasp of spacial 
awareness & women are much better at multi tasking.  Doesn't mean one is 
better than the other, just different.

>You have asked inteligent questions and acted on them. I, along with others 
>salute you for your DIY skills.  Don't belittle yourself.

I salute you as well Sam.  Keep up the good work & ask away.

Very often asking a simple question brings up a whole debate from which we 
all learn.


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Samantha Booth wrote:

> "Dave"  wrote in message 
> news:0oedneYDvsyHdvLVnZ2dnUVZ8h-dnZ2d@bt.com...
> 
>>Samantha Booth wrote:
>>
>>
>>>On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done 
>>>that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather 
>>>thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>
>>>Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its 
>>>dry be needed?
>>>
>>>Thanks Sam
>>>btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But 
>>>dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>
>>The only difference between you and I, is that you don't have as many 
>>dangly bits. The brain is the same and the ability is the same. You have 
>>asked inteligent questions and acted on them. I, along with others salute 
>>you for your DIY skills.  Don't belittle yourself.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>PS let me know how you go on with the asthma, as I was born with it in 
>>1946. It looked like I got rid of it when I was about 13 years old, but 
>>recent events tell me that I still suffer the effects of it. Wife is 
>>burning one of those smelly candles and while it is not collapsing my 
>>lungs, is not doing me any good.
>>
>>Dave
> 
> 
> Awww thanks Dave. I feel like I am being a pain sometimes on here asking so 
> many questions. I also feel dumb as I dont know how to DIY but want to try. 
> I know I will never be Tommy Walsh but I dont want to stop trying.

Believe me, if you were being a pain, you would have been told. We do 
have a residential PITA, But that is someone else. Keep posting, as I 
have a very high interest in what you are doing, as, I think, do others.

> I have an inhaler now and when I get short of breathe I use it and it 
> settles down fine. Thanks for asking 

Dave

"Samantha Booth"  wrote in message 
news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done 
> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather 
> thick I must say but went on eventually.
>
> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its 
> dry be needed?
>
> Thanks Sam
> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But 
> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>
Thanks all

I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although I think 
it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and varnish them when 
I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an antique pine stains.I 
would like oak but dont know if it will look like oak or oak stained pine if 
you know what I mean.

I am buying a hawk and trowel? And doing some plastering in the back room. 
Just filling in holes in the plasterboard that are too large for 
pollyfiller. I am going to be using thistle one coat I think someone here 
mentioned.

Then I am papering it in 1400 lining paper. I have some 1000 but its too 
thin and the walls are not great so I am hoping 1400 will cover up things.

I am cutting a hole in the rear of my kitchen cupboards to route a water 
pipe and waste pipe to feed a dishwasher half way across the kitchen.

I have a Stanley Intelligent somertorother stud finder given to me with no 
instructions and havent a clue how to use it. Its this one 
http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/1702/170234_300.jpg
http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41446MV0TAL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=77-355

When calibrating do I put it on the wall first or callibrate it away from 
the wall. I think its easier but less acurate just banging on the wall lol

Am also fitting some kitchen cupboards and putting a wooden top on then 
overhanging enough to get stools under for a breakfast bar.


Phew !!! There is a lot going on. Bedrooms are done now they look lovely 
thanks to all your advice.

Thanks again you lot, you have really cheered me up tonight. Thanks for 
letting me know I am not a pain

In message <AuSbk.21419$E41.17648@text.news.virginmedia.com>, The Medway 
Handyman  writes
>Dave wrote:
>> Samantha Booth wrote:
>>
>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have
>>> done that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go
>>> on rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>
>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when
>>> its dry be needed?
>>>
>>> Thanks Sam
>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part
>>> pva. But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>
>> The only difference between you and I, is that you don't have as many
>> dangly bits. The brain is the same and the ability is the same.
>
>Actually mens & womens brains do process information in different ways, men
>are better able to focus on one task & have a greater grasp of spacial
>awareness & women are much better at multi tasking.  Doesn't mean one is
>better than the other, just different.
>
I dunno, I quite often have to deal with four or five different problems 
simultaneously

does that mean I'm a big girl then ?

-- 
geoff

geoff wrote:
> In message <AuSbk.21419$E41.17648@text.news.virginmedia.com>, The
> Medway Handyman  writes
>> Dave wrote:
>>> Samantha Booth wrote:
>>>
>>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have
>>>> done that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did
>>>> go on rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>>
>>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat
>>>> when its dry be needed?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Sam
>>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part
>>>> pva. But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>>
>>> The only difference between you and I, is that you don't have as
>>> many dangly bits. The brain is the same and the ability is the same.
>>
>> Actually mens & womens brains do process information in different
>> ways, men are better able to focus on one task & have a greater
>> grasp of spacial awareness & women are much better at multi tasking.
>> Doesn't mean one is better than the other, just different.
>>
> I dunno, I quite often have to deal with four or five different
> problems simultaneously
>
> does that mean I'm a big girl then ?

No, just a big girls blouse :-)


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Samantha Booth wrote:

> "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message 
> news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> 
>>On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done 
>>that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather 
>>thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>
>>Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its 
>>dry be needed?
>>
>>Thanks Sam
>>btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But 
>>dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>
> 
> Thanks all
> 
> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although I think 
> it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and varnish them when 
> I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an antique pine stains.I 
> would like oak but dont know if it will look like oak or oak stained pine if 
> you know what I mean.
> 
> I am buying a hawk and trowel? And doing some plastering in the back room. 
> Just filling in holes in the plasterboard that are too large for 
> pollyfiller. I am going to be using thistle one coat I think someone here 
> mentioned.
> 
> Then I am papering it in 1400 lining paper. I have some 1000 but its too 
> thin and the walls are not great so I am hoping 1400 will cover up things.
> 
> I am cutting a hole in the rear of my kitchen cupboards to route a water 
> pipe and waste pipe to feed a dishwasher half way across the kitchen.
> 
> I have a Stanley Intelligent somertorother stud finder given to me with no 
> instructions and havent a clue how to use it. Its this one 
> http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/1702/170234_300.jpg
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41446MV0TAL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
> http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=77-355
> 
> When calibrating do I put it on the wall first or callibrate it away from 
> the wall. I think its easier but less acurate just banging on the wall lol
> 
> Am also fitting some kitchen cupboards and putting a wooden top on then 
> overhanging enough to get stools under for a breakfast bar.
> 
> 
> Phew !!! There is a lot going on. Bedrooms are done now they look lovely 
> thanks to all your advice.
> 
> Thanks again you lot, you have really cheered me up tonight. Thanks for 
> letting me know I am not a pain

This is a DIY news group. If you do not ask, how do you get an answer?

Ask, ask, ask again. None of your questions have been off topic. There 
are are lots of things that you might think are of topic, but please ask.


Dave

On 2008-07-05 23:43:41 +0100, "Samantha Booth" 
 said:
> 
> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although I think
> it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and varnish them when
> I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an antique pine stains.I
> would like oak but dont know if it will look like oak or oak stained pine if
> you know what I mean.
> 

How old is the place and the rails?  Do you mean the hand rails, 
spindles or both?    If it's a Victorian/Edwardian property, there may 
be visual value in keeping the originals with dings and all.   If it's 
a lot newer, then perhaps not.    Getting all of the paint off is going 
to be time consuming, but may be worth it to keep originals.  A 
chemical stripper will be the most effective if there are a lot of 
paint layers.    Nitromors and some cling film to cover it is 
effective.  Hand protection and clothes you don't mind writing off are 
mandatory.    Having a bucket of clean water nearby is a really good 
idea in case you get any on yourself.  Water neutralises it quickly.

Staining and varnishing of softwoods with antique stains usually 
doesn't look very good.   The results end up looking orangey and rather 
unnatural and nothing close to oak.     Going for a lighter finish or 
using a wax may give you something that looks more appealing.

Otherwise, replacing the stair rail parts is possible.    In terms of 
time it is likely to be the same or less than stripping the existing 
although you may end up wanting to replace the hand rails and newel 
posts as well to give an overall good appearance.    Obviously it will 
cost more than the stripping and refinishing exercise but you can end 
up with actual hardwood rather than a faked attempt.    There is a 
world of difference.

http://www.jacksonwoodturners.co.uk/index.php

is one supplier of stair parts.

This *can* be a DIY job, but maybe not an early career one.     There 
is a lot of cutting of parts, although a chop saw would aid that 
considerably - either a purchased one or perhaps renting a decent one 
for a couple of days.  Obviously, measuring very accurately is 
important.     Jointing and fixing newel posts and rails is probably 
the hardest part.

Since stair rails can be an important focal point of the house, you 
might also want to look at whether getting a carpenter or joiner to do 
the work makes sense.

It's the usual cost/time/outcome equation.

> I have a Stanley Intelligent somertorother stud finder given to me with no
> instructions and havent a clue how to use it. Its this one
> http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/1702/170234_300.jpg
> http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/41446MV0TAL._SL500_AA280_.jpg
> http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=77-355
> 
> When calibrating do I put it on the wall first or callibrate it away from
> the wall. I think its easier but less acurate just banging on the wall lol
> 


You put the sensor on the wall first, away from studs and calibrate.  
Then move the scanner across *slowly* allowing  it to respond.   
Approach the studs from both sides and mark.   Then repeat a little 
above or below.    This detector appears to be a rebadged Zircon one or 
at least the same technology.   They are good if you are patient and 
wait for the responses.

If you go on the Stanley web site (link you gave and go for Support---> 
Knowledge Base; and type in the model number, you can get the 
instruction manual.

Samantha Booth wrote:

>
> I am cutting a hole in the rear of my kitchen cupboards to route a
> water pipe and waste pipe to feed a dishwasher half way across the
> kitchen.

http://www.screwfix.com/prods/11002/Drill-Bits/Drill-Bit-Sets/Wood-Sets/Plumbers-Holesaw-Kit-6Pc#


Makes a nice neat job.


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

Samantha Booth wrote:
> "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message 
> news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done 
>> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather 
>> thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>
>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its 
>> dry be needed?
>>
>> Thanks Sam
>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But 
>> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>
> Thanks all
> 
> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although I think 
> it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and varnish them when 
> I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an antique pine stains.I 
> would like oak but dont know if it will look like oak or oak stained pine if 
> you know what I mean.
> 

Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood has 
a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish instead.

Andy Hall wrote:

> How old is the place and the rails?  Do you mean the hand rails, 
> spindles or both?    If it's a Victorian/Edwardian property, there may 
> be visual value in keeping the originals with dings and all.   If it's a 
> lot newer, then perhaps not.    Getting all of the paint off is going to 
> be time consuming, but may be worth it to keep originals.  A chemical 
> stripper will be the most effective if there are a lot of paint 
> layers.    Nitromors and some cling film to cover it is effective.  Hand 
> protection and clothes you don't mind writing off are mandatory.    
> Having a bucket of clean water nearby is a really good idea in case you 
> get any on yourself.  Water neutralises it quickly.

Solvent based paint stripper destroys cling film and plastic gloves and, 
in view of the fumes, not something I'd recommend to anyone with 
asthmatic tendencies.
There may still be an alkali water based version, but it won't touch 
modern finishes such as acrylics or polyurethanes.
If there's any way of removing the spindles, I'd take them to the local 
Dip 'n Strip place. Very labour intensive to do them in situ.

> Staining and varnishing of softwoods with antique stains usually doesn't 
> look very good.   The results end up looking orangey and rather 
> unnatural and nothing close to oak.     Going for a lighter finish or 
> using a wax may give you something that looks more appealing.

Vandyke crystals is the only stain I'd use on softwood.

The Natural Philosopher wrote:
> Samantha Booth wrote:
>> "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message 
>> news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have 
>>> done that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go 
>>> on rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>
>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when 
>>> its dry be needed?
>>>
>>> Thanks Sam
>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. 
>>> But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>>
>> Thanks all
>>
>> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although I 
>> think it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and 
>> varnish them when I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an 
>> antique pine stains.I would like oak but dont know if it will look 
>> like oak or oak stained pine if you know what I mean.
>>
> 
> Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood has 
> a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish instead.

But don't you find that people often mean coloured varnish (or other 
transparent/near transparent finish) when they say stain?

The distinction between the 'real' stains (spirit or water based) and 
coloured finishes is non-existent much of the time.

Doesn't alter the fact you are spot on right.

IMHO most 'antique' finishes look like dead oranges - horrible colour. 
Often better to use little or no colour and allow time to develop full 
blown orange pine colour. :-)

This is most particulalry the case where the wood is subject to damage - 
even very minor scratches show up due to the contrast between the wood 
and the coloured finish.

-- 
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious 
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
<www.thyromind.info> <www.thyroiduk.org> <www.altsupportthyroid.org>

In message <g4otf9$ket$1@registered.motzarella.org>, Samantha Booth 
 wrote


>I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although I think
>it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and varnish them when
>I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an antique pine stains.I
>would like oak but dont know if it will look like oak or oak stained pine if
>you know what I mean.

Strip one properly and stain before doing all of the rest.  I once had 
similar ideas about stripping back to the wood and varnishing.  In the 
end I found that the quality of the wood and the original construction 
wasn't to good. The nail holes had been filled (100years before) with 
something that wouldn't take a stain properly. Life was too short to 
spend any more time on the job and my banisters are now painted a nice 
shade of white.

>
>Then I am papering it in 1400 lining paper. I have some 1000 but its too
>thin and the walls are not great so I am hoping 1400 will cover up things.

Woodchip  <ducks for cover>


-- 
Alan
news2006 {at} amac {dot} f2s {dot} com

> IMHO most 'antique' finishes look like dead oranges - horrible colour. 

That's because they're usually based on synthetic iron oxides, and the 
lack of a blue oxide makes it impossible to get the yellow/brown colour 
that suits pale timber.

Rod wrote:
> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>> Samantha Booth wrote:
>>> "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message
>>> news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have
>>>> done that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did
>>>> go on rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>>
>>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat
>>>> when its dry be needed?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks Sam
>>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part
>>>> pva. But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>>>
>>> Thanks all
>>>
>>> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although
>>> I think it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and
>>> varnish them when I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an
>>> antique pine stains.I would like oak but dont know if it will look
>>> like oak or oak stained pine if you know what I mean.
>>>
>>
>> Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood
>> has a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish
>> instead.
>
> But don't you find that people often mean coloured varnish (or other
> transparent/near transparent finish) when they say stain?
>
> The distinction between the 'real' stains (spirit or water based) and
> coloured finishes is non-existent much of the time.
>
> Doesn't alter the fact you are spot on right.
>
> IMHO most 'antique' finishes look like dead oranges - horrible colour.
> Often better to use little or no colour and allow time to develop full
> blown orange pine colour. :-)

I've used both Ammonia or Caustic Soda in a weak solution to treat new pine 
& get that nice 'aged' shade.  Ammonia fumes are not pleasant so I don't use 
it anymore.


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

"The Medway Handyman"  wrote in message 
news:fs1ck.21607$E41.5168@text.news.virginmedia.com...
> Rod wrote:
>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>> Samantha Booth wrote:
>>>> "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message
>>>> news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have
>>>>> done that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did
>>>>> go on rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat
>>>>> when its dry be needed?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks Sam
>>>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part
>>>>> pva. But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>>>>
>>>> Thanks all
>>>>
>>>> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although
>>>> I think it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and
>>>> varnish them when I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an
>>>> antique pine stains.I would like oak but dont know if it will look
>>>> like oak or oak stained pine if you know what I mean.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood
>>> has a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish
>>> instead.
>>
>> But don't you find that people often mean coloured varnish (or other
>> transparent/near transparent finish) when they say stain?
>>
>> The distinction between the 'real' stains (spirit or water based) and
>> coloured finishes is non-existent much of the time.
>>
>> Doesn't alter the fact you are spot on right.
>>
>> IMHO most 'antique' finishes look like dead oranges - horrible colour.
>> Often better to use little or no colour and allow time to develop full
>> blown orange pine colour. :-)
>
> I've used both Ammonia or Caustic Soda in a weak solution to treat new 
> pine & get that nice 'aged' shade.  Ammonia fumes are not pleasant so I 
> don't use it anymore.
>
>
> -- 
> Dave - The Medway Handyman
> www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
>
So if I want an antique pine effect ( its all 7 years old the wood) as I 
have nearly striped it all now whats the best to do to get that aged look? 
isnt vandyke very dark? Will the soda age it?
Thanks Sam

> So if I want an antique pine effect ( its all 7 years old the wood) as I 
> have nearly striped it all now whats the best to do to get that aged look? 
> isnt vandyke very dark? Will the soda age it?
> Thanks Sam 

Blimey, you don't hang about do you? I've known people take months to 
strip their spindles. I assume they weren't too ornate :-)

Vandyke is best used at around 1% (or a teaspoon to a pint of water). 
Takes an hour or so to fully dissolve.

The wood really needs to soak in caustic, or be exposed to ammonia 
fumes, for several hours to affect the appearance. Not practical in this 
case. Vandyke itself is mildly alkaline.

"stuart noble"  wrote in message 
news:x72ck.56711$AH5.10827@newsfe09.ams2...
>
>> So if I want an antique pine effect ( its all 7 years old the wood) as I 
>> have nearly striped it all now whats the best to do to get that aged 
>> look? isnt vandyke very dark? Will the soda age it?
>> Thanks Sam
>
> Blimey, you don't hang about do you? I've known people take months to 
> strip their spindles. I assume they weren't too ornate :-)
>
> Vandyke is best used at around 1% (or a teaspoon to a pint of water). 
> Takes an hour or so to fully dissolve.
>
> The wood really needs to soak in caustic, or be exposed to ammonia fumes, 
> for several hours to affect the appearance. Not practical in this case. 
> Vandyke itself is mildly alkaline.

No they are quite plain. I started with a heat gun and it was taking ages. I 
then used nitromors and its done the trick, along with a very sharp B&Q 
scraper. Rails were tough but I did it for 8 hours a day 7 days a week and 
suprised myself how fast it came off. Its only ever had 1 layer of paint in 
its 7 year history so not too difficult.

I am not too bothered about the wood itself looking old but I want the stain 
to take well. I watched Holmes On Homes once when the decorator was 
conditioning a staircase with water on a rag. he said it allows him ti see 
any glue left over from the chippie and also conditions the wood by openng 
the pours allowing it to take the stain easier. I must say having done this 
on a brand new windowsill I bought and installed its taken the stain and 
varnish very well and very evenly.

So I plan to stain with an antique pine effect. So haveing read these 
threads its better to use an antique pine varnish rather than a dedicated 
stain and a sating varnish on top

On Jul 6, 10:04 am, The Natural Philosopher <a...@b.c> wrote:
> Samantha Booth wrote:
> > "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message
> >news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...

> >> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done
> >> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on rather
> >> thick I must say but went on eventually.
>
> >> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its
> >> dry be needed?
>
> >> Thanks Sam
> >> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. But
> >> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>
> > Thanks all
>
> > I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although I think
> > it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and varnish them when
> > I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an antique pine stains.I
> > would like oak but dont know if it will look like oak or oak stained pine if
> > you know what I mean.
>
> Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood has
> a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish instead.

If theres one product I'd stay right away from, thats it. The trouble
with tinted varnishes is that like any varnish in time it chips, and
you then get little white wood patches on a darker background, it
could hardly look worse.

Best route with pine or spruce imho is to not stain it at all.
Initially it does look anaemic, but it slowly colours nicely up by
itself, and after a bit the result of aged untinted pine beats aged
tinted pine any day. The former is full of detail and character, the
latter looks flat and characterless.


NT

wrote in message 
news:2ef81b32-b5e0-4041-a5a6-4839c61a696b@k13g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
On Jul 6, 10:04 am, The Natural Philosopher <a...@b.c> wrote:
> Samantha Booth wrote:
> > "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message
> >news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...

> >> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have 
> >> done
> >> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on 
> >> rather
> >> thick I must say but went on eventually.
>
> >> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when 
> >> its
> >> dry be needed?
>
> >> Thanks Sam
> >> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. 
> >> But
> >> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>
> > Thanks all
>
> > I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although I 
> > think
> > it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and varnish them 
> > when
> > I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an antique pine stains.I
> > would like oak but dont know if it will look like oak or oak stained 
> > pine if
> > you know what I mean.
>
> Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood has
> a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish instead.

If theres one product I'd stay right away from, thats it. The trouble
with tinted varnishes is that like any varnish in time it chips, and
you then get little white wood patches on a darker background, it
could hardly look worse.

Best route with pine or spruce imho is to not stain it at all.
Initially it does look anaemic, but it slowly colours nicely up by
itself, and after a bit the result of aged untinted pine beats aged
tinted pine any day. The former is full of detail and character, the
latter looks flat and characterless.


NT

So just a clear varnish then.

Can I ask, what about Waxing it. I have he brishes for waxing that go in the 
drill to buff the wood. I am wondering if waxing would give a better finish. 
Please dont think I am not taking your great advice i am just wondering and 
guessing.

Samantha Booth wrote:
>  wrote in message 
> news:2ef81b32-b5e0-4041-a5a6-4839c61a696b@k13g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> On Jul 6, 10:04 am, The Natural Philosopher <a...@b.c> wrote:
>> Samantha Booth wrote:
>>> "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message
>>> news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
> 
>>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have 
>>>> done
>>>> that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on 
>>>> rather
>>>> thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when 
>>>> its
>>>> dry be needed?
>>>> Thanks Sam
>>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. 
>>>> But
>>>> dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>> Thanks all
>>> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although I 
>>> think
>>> it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and varnish them 
>>> when
>>> I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an antique pine stains.I
>>> would like oak but dont know if it will look like oak or oak stained 
>>> pine if
>>> you know what I mean.
>> Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood has
>> a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish instead.
> 
> If theres one product I'd stay right away from, thats it. The trouble
> with tinted varnishes is that like any varnish in time it chips, and
> you then get little white wood patches on a darker background, it
> could hardly look worse.
> 
> Best route with pine or spruce imho is to not stain it at all.
> Initially it does look anaemic, but it slowly colours nicely up by
> itself, and after a bit the result of aged untinted pine beats aged
> tinted pine any day. The former is full of detail and character, the
> latter looks flat and characterless.
> 
> 
> NT
> 
> So just a clear varnish then.
> 
> Can I ask, what about Waxing it. I have he brishes for waxing that go in the 
> drill to buff the wood. I am wondering if waxing would give a better finish. 
> Please dont think I am not taking your great advice i am just wondering and 
> guessing. 
> 
> 
I am currently sitting at a small desk which was brand new pine a few 
years ago. Varnished with Aqualac (on offer at Screwfix - looks like it 
might be discontinued). Started as described - a bit anaemic - but has 
darkened down and, to my eyes, looks as good as pine ever does. Easy to 
apply. Nice gentle sheen. Pretty tough.

I am not in a position to judge between wax and Aqualac. But I think I'd 
jump for Aqualac myself.

-- 
Rod

Hypothyroidism is a seriously debilitating condition with an insidious 
onset.
Although common it frequently goes undiagnosed.
<www.thyromind.info> <www.thyroiduk.org> <www.altsupportthyroid.org>

"The Medway Handyman"  wrote in message 
news:fs1ck.21607$E41.5168@text.news.virginmedia.com...
> Rod wrote:
>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>> Samantha Booth wrote:
>>>> "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message
>>>> news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have
>>>>> done that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did
>>>>> go on rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>>>
>>>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat
>>>>> when its dry be needed?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks Sam
>>>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part
>>>>> pva. But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>>>>
>>>> Thanks all
>>>>
>>>> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails, although
>>>> I think it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to stain and
>>>> varnish them when I have stripped them all. A satin I think. And an
>>>> antique pine stains.I would like oak but dont know if it will look
>>>> like oak or oak stained pine if you know what I mean.
>>>>
>>>
>>> Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood
>>> has a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish
>>> instead.
>>
>> But don't you find that people often mean coloured varnish (or other
>> transparent/near transparent finish) when they say stain?
>>
>> The distinction between the 'real' stains (spirit or water based) and
>> coloured finishes is non-existent much of the time.
>>
>> Doesn't alter the fact you are spot on right.
>>
>> IMHO most 'antique' finishes look like dead oranges - horrible colour.
>> Often better to use little or no colour and allow time to develop full
>> blown orange pine colour. :-)
>
> I've used both Ammonia or Caustic Soda in a weak solution to treat new 
> pine & get that nice 'aged' shade.  Ammonia fumes are not pleasant so I 
> don't use it anymore.
>
>
> -- 
> Dave - The Medway Handyman
> www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
>
Is it OK to stain, wax or clear varnish the wood after the Soda has been 
applied Dave?

Also when you say weak solution how much? What exactly does it do to the 
wood? thanks Dave

Sam

Samantha Booth wrote:
> "The Medway Handyman"  wrote in
> message news:fs1ck.21607$E41.5168@text.news.virginmedia.com...
>> Rod wrote:
>>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>>> Samantha Booth wrote:
>>>>> "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message
>>>>> news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>>>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I
>>>>>> have done that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water.
>>>>>> It did go on rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat
>>>>>> when its dry be needed?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks Sam
>>>>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part
>>>>>> pva. But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks all
>>>>>
>>>>> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails,
>>>>> although I think it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to
>>>>> stain and varnish them when I have stripped them all. A satin I
>>>>> think. And an antique pine stains.I would like oak but dont know
>>>>> if it will look like oak or oak stained pine if you know what I
>>>>> mean.
>>>>
>>>> Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood
>>>> has a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish
>>>> instead.
>>>
>>> But don't you find that people often mean coloured varnish (or other
>>> transparent/near transparent finish) when they say stain?
>>>
>>> The distinction between the 'real' stains (spirit or water based)
>>> and coloured finishes is non-existent much of the time.
>>>
>>> Doesn't alter the fact you are spot on right.
>>>
>>> IMHO most 'antique' finishes look like dead oranges - horrible
>>> colour. Often better to use little or no colour and allow time to
>>> develop full blown orange pine colour. :-)
>>
>> I've used both Ammonia or Caustic Soda in a weak solution to treat
>> new pine & get that nice 'aged' shade.  Ammonia fumes are not
>> pleasant so I don't use it anymore.
>>
>>
>> --
>> Dave - The Medway Handyman
>> www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>>
>>
> Is it OK to stain, wax or clear varnish the wood after the Soda has
> been applied Dave?

Thats all I've ever done, let it dry & apply finish.
>
> Also when you say weak solution how much? What exactly does it do to
> the wood? thanks Dave

Teaspoon in a litre spray bottle.

Try some on some scrap wood & see.


-- 
Dave - The Medway Handyman
www.medwayhandyman.co.uk

On 2008-07-05 23:43:41 +0100, "Samantha Booth" 
 said:
> 
> I am cutting a hole in the rear of my kitchen cupboards to route a water
> pipe and waste pipe to feed a dishwasher half way across the kitchen.
> 


Make sure that you use 40mm pipe and put a good slope on it for that distance

"Dave"  wrote in message 
news:s_idnQarCeCFb_LVnZ2dnUVZ8vWdnZ2d@bt.com...
> Samantha Booth wrote:
>> "Dave"  wrote in message 
>> news:0oedneYDvsyHdvLVnZ2dnUVZ8h-dnZ2d@bt.com...
>>
>>>Samantha Booth wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I have done 
>>>>that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water. It did go on 
>>>>rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>>
>>>>Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat when its 
>>>>dry be needed?
>>>>
>>>>Thanks Sam
>>>>btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part pva. 
>>>>But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>>
>>>The only difference between you and I, is that you don't have as many 
>>>dangly bits. The brain is the same and the ability is the same. You have 
>>>asked inteligent questions and acted on them. I, along with others salute 
>>>you for your DIY skills.  Don't belittle yourself.
>>>
>>>Dave
>>>
>>>PS let me know how you go on with the asthma, as I was born with it in 
>>>1946. It looked like I got rid of it when I was about 13 years old, but 
>>>recent events tell me that I still suffer the effects of it. Wife is 
>>>burning one of those smelly candles and while it is not collapsing my 
>>>lungs, is not doing me any good.
>>>
>>>Dave
>>
>>
>> Awww thanks Dave. I feel like I am being a pain sometimes on here asking 
>> so many questions. I also feel dumb as I dont know how to DIY but want to 
>> try. I know I will never be Tommy Walsh but I dont want to stop trying.
>
>
> No. You are not being a pain
>
> I used to work in the aerospace industry on development. Hands on the 
> aircraft and I had a team of about 50 men to look after. Most of  them had 
> never worked on an aircraft before (I think I was stitched up here. 
> because of my knowledge of the aircraft) and my first words to them was 
> 'There is no such thing as a stupid question. If you are in doubt, then 
> please ask. There are no lay-by's in the sky. If the aircraft goes sick, 
> it has to come back to ground and I would rather it came back under its 
> own steam'.
>
> Work to those rules and you can't go wrong.

There are two other golden rules, I find particularly worth remembering:

"The person who never made a mistake never made anything"

"Assumption is the mother of all cock-ups" (this applies to DIY, 
relationships, parenting, just about anything important, as I suspect we all 
have known to our cost!)


-- 
Bob Mannix
(anti-spam is as easy as 1-2-3 - not)

"The Medway Handyman"  wrote in message 
news:Qwack.22021$E41.15993@text.news.virginmedia.com...
> Samantha Booth wrote:
>> "The Medway Handyman"  wrote in
>> message news:fs1ck.21607$E41.5168@text.news.virginmedia.com...
>>> Rod wrote:
>>>> The Natural Philosopher wrote:
>>>>> Samantha Booth wrote:
>>>>>> "Samantha Booth"  wrote in message
>>>>>> news:g4onsp$dsa$1@registered.motzarella.org...
>>>>>>> On my asthma thread I was advised to PVA the concrete floor. I
>>>>>>> have done that at a ration of 5-1. 5 parts PVA to 1 part water.
>>>>>>> It did go on rather thick I must say but went on eventually.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Anyway do I need to do this more that once? Would a second coat
>>>>>>> when its dry be needed?
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Thanks Sam
>>>>>>> btw I was joking about the ratio, I used 5 parts water to 1 part
>>>>>>> pva. But dont tell me you were shocked after all I am a woman lol
>>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks all
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am currently stripping the paint off the banister rails,
>>>>>> although I think it would be easier if I replaced them. I want to
>>>>>> stain and varnish them when I have stripped them all. A satin I
>>>>>> think. And an antique pine stains.I would like oak but dont know
>>>>>> if it will look like oak or oak stained pine if you know what I
>>>>>> mean.
>>>>>
>>>>> Dont use stain: you get teh most afully prominent grain as sofwtood
>>>>> has a huge absorption in the pithier parts. Use a colored varnish
>>>>> instead.
>>>>
>>>> But don't you find that people often mean coloured varnish (or other
>>>> transparent/near transparent finish) when they say stain?
>>>>
>>>> The distinction between the 'real' stains (spirit or water based)
>>>> and coloured finishes is non-existent much of the time.
>>>>
>>>> Doesn't alter the fact you are spot on right.
>>>>
>>>> IMHO most 'antique' finishes look like dead oranges - horrible
>>>> colour. Often better to use little or no colour and allow time to
>>>> develop full blown orange pine colour. :-)
>>>
>>> I've used both Ammonia or Caustic Soda in a weak solution to treat
>>> new pine & get that nice 'aged' shade.  Ammonia fumes are not
>>> pleasant so I don't use it anymore.
>>>
>>>
>>> --
>>> Dave - The Medway Handyman
>>> www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>>>
>>>
>> Is it OK to stain, wax or clear varnish the wood after the Soda has
>> been applied Dave?
>
> Thats all I've ever done, let it dry & apply finish.
>>
>> Also when you say weak solution how much? What exactly does it do to
>> the wood? thanks Dave
>
> Teaspoon in a litre spray bottle.
>
> Try some on some scrap wood & see.
>
>
> -- 
> Dave - The Medway Handyman
> www.medwayhandyman.co.uk
>
>
>
>
Tried some on the wood today and it went quite yellow.