|
|
|
date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 12:14:28 +0100,
group: uk.d-i-y
back
Joints requirements
I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me
where I should use each joint type.
Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings.
I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D
(M = M&T)
A--------B---------------------------B--------A
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
D-------X---------------------------X--------D
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
D ------M M---------D
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
| | | |
D-------X---------------------------X--------D
| | | |
| | | |
===================================== (door step)
Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?
Thanks.
Arthur
date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 12:14:28 +0100
author: Arthur2
|
Re: Joints requirements
Arthur2 wrote:
> I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me
> where I should use each joint type.
> Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings.
> I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D
>
> (M = M&T)
>
> A--------B---------------------------B--------A
>> | | | |
>> | | | | |
> D-------X---------------------------X--------D
>> | | | |
>> | | | | | |
>> | | | | |
> D ------M M---------D
>> | | | |
>> | | | | | |
>> | | | | | |
>> | |
> D-------X---------------------------X--------D
>> | | | |
>> | |
> ===================================== (door step)
>
> Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?
>
> Thanks.
>
> Arthur
Arthur,
On a combination and simple external door frames, all the joints are mortice
and tenon and are usually scribed or mitred to whatever moulding you have on
the frame (if any) - you don't use 'cross halvings'
See the very rough sketch at the following Tinypic.com link:
http://i29.tinypic.com/2pqkint.jpg
Tanner-'op
date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 14:16:03 +0100
author: Tanner-'op tannerop@i......nvalid.com
|
Re: Joints requirements
Tanner-'op wrote:
> Arthur2 wrote:
>> I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me
>> where I should use each joint type.
>> Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings.
>> I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D
>>
>> (M = M&T)
>>
>> A--------B---------------------------B--------A
>>> | | | |
>>> | | | | |
>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D
>>> | | | |
>>> | | | | | |
>>> | | | | |
>> D ------M M---------D
>>> | | | |
>>> | | | | | |
>>> | | | | | |
>>> | |
>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D
>>> | | | |
>>> | |
>> ===================================== (door step)
>>
>> Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?
>>
>> Thanks.
>>
>> Arthur
>
> Arthur,
>
> On a combination and simple external door frames, all the joints are mortice
> and tenon and are usually scribed or mitred to whatever moulding you have on
> the frame (if any) - you don't use 'cross halvings'
>
> See the very rough sketch at the following Tinypic.com link:
> http://i29.tinypic.com/2pqkint.jpg
>
>
> Tanner-'op
>
>
>
>
>
>
You might find this useful.
http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/Guide/Doors.pdf It
is still being refined and will be published here in time
http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk
Bob
date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 16:19:57 +0100
author: Bob Minchin
|
Re: Joints requirements
Bob Minchin wrote:
> Tanner-'op wrote:
>> Arthur2 wrote:
>>> I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me
>>> where I should use each joint type.
>>> Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings.
>>> I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D
>>>
>>> (M = M&T)
>>>
>>> A--------B---------------------------B--------A
>>>> | | | |
>>>>> | | | |
>>>>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D |
>>>>> | | |
>>>>> | | | | |
>>>>> | | | | D
>>>>> ------M M---------D
>>>>> | | | |
>>>>> | | | | | | | |
>>>>> | | | D-------X---------------------------X--------D |
>>>>> | | | |
>>> ===================================== (door step)
>>>
>>> Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?
>>>
>>> Thanks.
>>>
>>> Arthur
>>
>> Arthur,
>>
>> On a combination and simple external door frames, all the joints are
>> mortice and tenon and are usually scribed or mitred to whatever
>> moulding you have on the frame (if any) - you don't use 'cross
>> halvings' See the very rough sketch at the following Tinypic.com link:
>> http://i29.tinypic.com/2pqkint.jpg
>>
>>
>> Tanner-'op
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> You might find this useful.
> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/Guide/Doors.pdf It
> is still being refined and will be published here in time
> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk
> Bob
Not quite sure who you are replying to Bob.
Tried your link but the PDF kept crashing but from what I did see, it was
the construction of a door rather than the door frame that I presume Arthur2
is making - and you still wouldn't use "cross halvings" when making a
panelled door - but you would get 'gun-stock' stiles on some though!
BTW, if it was directed at me, thanks for the info but I was making those
things way back in the mid '60's as a very young apprentice carpenter &
joiner - all done by hand at the time (I had a begger of an apprentice
master who wouldn't even let me use a mortice machine until I had done 3
years of a 5 year apprenticeship).
Tanner-'op
date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 17:46:37 +0100
author: Tanner-'op tannerop@i......nvalid.com
|
Re: Joints requirements
"Tanner-'op" <tannerop@i......nvalid.com> wrote in message
news:6cpsjaF1iegd1U1@mid.individual.net...
> Bob Minchin wrote:
>> Tanner-'op wrote:
>>> Arthur2 wrote:
>>>> I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me
>>>> where I should use each joint type.
>>>> Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings.
>>>> I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D
>>>>
>>>> (M = M&T)
>>>>
>>>> A--------B---------------------------B--------A
>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D | |
>>>>>> | |
>>>>>> | | | | |
>>>>>> | | | | D
>>>>>> ------M M---------D
>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>> | | | | | | | | |
>>>>>> | | D-------X---------------------------X--------D | | |
>>>>>> | |
>>>> ===================================== (door step)
>>>>
>>>> Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?
>>>>
>>>> Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> Arthur
>>>
>>> Arthur,
>>>
>>> On a combination and simple external door frames, all the joints are
>>> mortice and tenon and are usually scribed or mitred to whatever
>>> moulding you have on the frame (if any) - you don't use 'cross
>>> halvings' See the very rough sketch at the following Tinypic.com link:
>>> http://i29.tinypic.com/2pqkint.jpg
>>>
>>>
>>> Tanner-'op
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> You might find this useful.
>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/Guide/Doors.pdf It
>> is still being refined and will be published here in time
>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk
>> Bob
>
> Not quite sure who you are replying to Bob.
>
> Tried your link but the PDF kept crashing but from what I did see, it was
> the construction of a door rather than the door frame that I presume
> Arthur2 is making - and you still wouldn't use "cross halvings" when
> making a panelled door - but you would get 'gun-stock' stiles on some
> though!
>
> BTW, if it was directed at me, thanks for the info but I was making those
> things way back in the mid '60's as a very young apprentice carpenter &
> joiner - all done by hand at the time (I had a begger of an apprentice
> master who wouldn't even let me use a mortice machine until I had done 3
> years of a 5 year apprenticeship).
>
>
> Tanner-'op
>
>
To Bob and Tanner-'op.
I am using 100mm x 63mm (92mm x 57mm) pre-rebated and with ovolo moulding.
On the subject of M & T's I have had replies to posts stressing only the 1/3
ratio.
eg, tenon 1/3 thickness of stock.
So by this ratio the tenon for the above stock would be 30mm x 10mm because
the narrowest part of the stock is 32mm due to the double rebate.
ie
+---------------------------+
| |
| +----------------------+
| -------------------------- | 32mm
wide
| | |
|
| | |
|
| | |
|
| | |
|
| |--------------------------| |
| +-----------------------+
| |
+-------------------------- +
But if the horizontal piece is at right angles to the vertical (re
stiffening members at D--M and M--D half way down the door)
I believe you could thicken the tenon until the shoulder is only 3/4mm wide
and use
a tenon approx 25mm square. This will give a greater glueing area.
I would appreciate your advice.
Thanks
Arthur
date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 19:41:40 +0100
author: Arthur2
|
Re: Joints requirements
Arthur2 wrote:
> "Tanner-'op" <tannerop@i......nvalid.com> wrote in message
> news:6cpsjaF1iegd1U1@mid.individual.net...
>> Bob Minchin wrote:
>>> Tanner-'op wrote:
>>>> Arthur2 wrote:
>>>>> I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me
>>>>> where I should use each joint type.
>>>>> Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings.
>>>>> I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D
>>>>>
>>>>> (M = M&T)
>>>>>
>>>>> A--------B---------------------------B--------A
>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D | |
>>>>>>> | |
>>>>>>> | | | | |
>>>>>>> | | | | D
>>>>>>> ------M M---------D
>>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>> | | | | | | | | |
>>>>>>> | | D-------X---------------------------X--------D | | |
>>>>>>> | |
>>>>> ===================================== (door step)
>>>>>
>>>>> Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>> Arthur
>>>> Arthur,
>>>>
>>>> On a combination and simple external door frames, all the joints are
>>>> mortice and tenon and are usually scribed or mitred to whatever
>>>> moulding you have on the frame (if any) - you don't use 'cross
>>>> halvings' See the very rough sketch at the following Tinypic.com link:
>>>> http://i29.tinypic.com/2pqkint.jpg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Tanner-'op
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> You might find this useful.
>>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/Guide/Doors.pdf It
>>> is still being refined and will be published here in time
>>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk
>>> Bob
>> Not quite sure who you are replying to Bob.
>>
>> Tried your link but the PDF kept crashing but from what I did see, it was
>> the construction of a door rather than the door frame that I presume
>> Arthur2 is making - and you still wouldn't use "cross halvings" when
>> making a panelled door - but you would get 'gun-stock' stiles on some
>> though!
>>
>> BTW, if it was directed at me, thanks for the info but I was making those
>> things way back in the mid '60's as a very young apprentice carpenter &
>> joiner - all done by hand at the time (I had a begger of an apprentice
>> master who wouldn't even let me use a mortice machine until I had done 3
>> years of a 5 year apprenticeship).
>>
>>
>> Tanner-'op
>>
>>
>
> To Bob and Tanner-'op.
> I am using 100mm x 63mm (92mm x 57mm) pre-rebated and with ovolo moulding.
> On the subject of M & T's I have had replies to posts stressing only the 1/3
> ratio.
> eg, tenon 1/3 thickness of stock.
> So by this ratio the tenon for the above stock would be 30mm x 10mm because
> the narrowest part of the stock is 32mm due to the double rebate.
> ie
>
> +---------------------------+
> | |
> | +----------------------+
> | -------------------------- | 32mm
> wide
> | | |
> |
> | | |
> |
> | | |
> |
> | | |
> |
> | |--------------------------| |
> | +-----------------------+
> | |
> +-------------------------- +
> But if the horizontal piece is at right angles to the vertical (re
> stiffening members at D--M and M--D half way down the door)
> I believe you could thicken the tenon until the shoulder is only 3/4mm wide
> and use
> a tenon approx 25mm square. This will give a greater glueing area.
>
> I would appreciate your advice.
>
> Thanks
>
> Arthur
>
>
>
Tanner-'op. I posted the links thinking they might have been of interest
to Arthur who I thought was making a door. Maybe he is making a frame?
With the evil combination of Ascii art and line wrapping, I've got no
idea what you are trying to convey Arthur.
I'm only an amateur woodworker and passed on oddments I thought might help.
Sounds like you might want to post on a woodworking forum somewhere that
supports proper diagrams and where Pro's lurk.
Sorry I can't be more helpful.
Bob
date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 22:25:05 +0100
author: Bob Minchin
|
Re: Joints requirements
Bob Minchin wrote:
> You might find this useful.
> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/Guide/Doors.pdf It
> is still being refined and will be published here in time
> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk
Very nice bit of work Bob!
--
Cheers,
John.
/=================================================================\
| Internode Ltd - http://www.internode.co.uk |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
| John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk |
\=================================================================/
date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 04:49:36 +0100
author: John Rumm
|
Re: Joints requirements
Bob Minchin wrote:
> Arthur2 wrote:
>> "Tanner-'op" <tannerop@i......nvalid.com> wrote in message
>> news:6cpsjaF1iegd1U1@mid.individual.net...
>>> Bob Minchin wrote:
>>>> Tanner-'op wrote:
>>>>> Arthur2 wrote:
>>>>>> I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me
>>>>>> where I should use each joint type.
>>>>>> Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings.
>>>>>> I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D
>>>>>>
>>>>>> (M = M&T)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> A--------B---------------------------B--------A
>>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D | |
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> | | | | | |
>>>>>>>> | | | D ------M
>>>>>>>> M---------D | | |
>>>>>>>> |
>>>>>>>>>> | | | | | | |
>>>>>>>>>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D | | |
>>>>>> ===================================== (door step)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Arthur
>>>>> Arthur,
>>>>>
>>>>> On a combination and simple external door frames, all the joints
>>>>> are mortice and tenon and are usually scribed or mitred to
>>>>> whatever moulding you have on the frame (if any) - you don't use
>>>>> 'cross halvings' See the very rough sketch at the following
>>>>> Tinypic.com link: http://i29.tinypic.com/2pqkint.jpg
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Tanner-'op
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> You might find this useful.
>>>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/Guide/Doors.pdf
>>>> It is still being refined and will be published here in time
>>>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk
>>>> Bob
>>> Not quite sure who you are replying to Bob.
>>>
>>> Tried your link but the PDF kept crashing but from what I did see,
>>> it was the construction of a door rather than the door frame that I
>>> presume Arthur2 is making - and you still wouldn't use "cross
>>> halvings" when making a panelled door - but you would get
>>> 'gun-stock' stiles on some though!
>>>
>>> BTW, if it was directed at me, thanks for the info but I was making
>>> those things way back in the mid '60's as a very young apprentice
>>> carpenter & joiner - all done by hand at the time (I had a begger
>>> of an apprentice master who wouldn't even let me use a mortice
>>> machine until I had done 3 years of a 5 year apprenticeship).
>>>
>>>
>>> Tanner-'op
>>>
>>>
>>
>> To Bob and Tanner-'op.
>> I am using 100mm x 63mm (92mm x 57mm) pre-rebated and with ovolo
>> moulding. On the subject of M & T's I have had replies to posts
>> stressing only the 1/3 ratio.
>> eg, tenon 1/3 thickness of stock.
>> So by this ratio the tenon for the above stock would be 30mm x 10mm
>> because the narrowest part of the stock is 32mm due to the double
>> rebate. ie
>>
>> +---------------------------+
>>> |
>>> +----------------------+
>>> -------------------------- | 32mm
>>> wide | |
>>>
>>> | |
>>>
>>> | |
>>>
>>> | |
>>>
>>> |--------------------------| |
>>> +-----------------------+
>>> |
>> +-------------------------- +
>> But if the horizontal piece is at right angles to the vertical (re
>> stiffening members at D--M and M--D half way down the door)
>> I believe you could thicken the tenon until the shoulder is only
>> 3/4mm wide and use
>> a tenon approx 25mm square. This will give a greater glueing area.
>>
>> I would appreciate your advice.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Arthur
>>
>>
>>
> Tanner-'op. I posted the links thinking they might have been of
> interest to Arthur who I thought was making a door. Maybe he is
> making a frame? With the evil combination of Ascii art and line
> wrapping, I've got no idea what you are trying to convey Arthur.
> I'm only an amateur woodworker and passed on oddments I thought might
> help. Sounds like you might want to post on a woodworking forum
> somewhere that supports proper diagrams and where Pro's lurk.
> Sorry I can't be more helpful.
>
> Bob
Thanks for the reply Bob, and if I seemed a little a little arrogant in my
reply to you, please accept my apologies as that was not intended - age has
its problems!
Tanner-'op
date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 18:45:10 +0100
author: Tanner-'op tannerop@i......nvalid.com
|
Re: Joints requirements
Arthur2 wrote:
> "Tanner-'op" <tannerop@i......nvalid.com> wrote in message
> news:6cpsjaF1iegd1U1@mid.individual.net...
>> Bob Minchin wrote:
>>> Tanner-'op wrote:
>>>> Arthur2 wrote:
>>>>> I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me
>>>>> where I should use each joint type.
>>>>> Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings.
>>>>> I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D
>>>>>
>>>>> (M = M&T)
>>>>>
>>>>> A--------B---------------------------B--------A
>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D | |
>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>> | | | | |
>>>>>>> D ------M M---------D |
>>>>>>> | | |
>>>>>>>>> | | | | | | |
>>>>>>>>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D | | |
>>>>> ===================================== (door step)
>>>>>
>>>>> Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>
>>>>> Arthur
>>>>
>>>> Arthur,
>>>>
>>>> On a combination and simple external door frames, all the joints
>>>> are mortice and tenon and are usually scribed or mitred to whatever
>>>> moulding you have on the frame (if any) - you don't use 'cross
>>>> halvings' See the very rough sketch at the following Tinypic.com
>>>> link: http://i29.tinypic.com/2pqkint.jpg
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Tanner-'op
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>> You might find this useful.
>>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/Guide/Doors.pdf
>>> It is still being refined and will be published here in time
>>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk
>>> Bob
>>
>> Not quite sure who you are replying to Bob.
>>
>> Tried your link but the PDF kept crashing but from what I did see,
>> it was the construction of a door rather than the door frame that I
>> presume Arthur2 is making - and you still wouldn't use "cross
>> halvings" when making a panelled door - but you would get
>> 'gun-stock' stiles on some though!
>>
>> BTW, if it was directed at me, thanks for the info but I was making
>> those things way back in the mid '60's as a very young apprentice
>> carpenter & joiner - all done by hand at the time (I had a begger of
>> an apprentice master who wouldn't even let me use a mortice machine
>> until I had done 3 years of a 5 year apprenticeship).
>>
>>
>> Tanner-'op
>>
>>
>
> To Bob and Tanner-'op.
> I am using 100mm x 63mm (92mm x 57mm) pre-rebated and with ovolo
> moulding. On the subject of M & T's I have had replies to posts
> stressing only the 1/3 ratio.
> eg, tenon 1/3 thickness of stock.
> So by this ratio the tenon for the above stock would be 30mm x 10mm
> because the narrowest part of the stock is 32mm due to the double
> rebate. ie
>
> +---------------------------+
>> |
>> +----------------------+
>> -------------------------- | 32mm
>> wide | |
>>
>> | |
>>
>> | |
>>
>> | |
>>
>> |--------------------------| |
>> +-----------------------+
>> |
> +-------------------------- +
> But if the horizontal piece is at right angles to the vertical (re
> stiffening members at D--M and M--D half way down the door)
> I believe you could thicken the tenon until the shoulder is only
> 3/4mm wide and use
> a tenon approx 25mm square. This will give a greater glueing area.
>
> I would appreciate your advice.
>
> Thanks
>
> Arthur
Arthur,
Your attempts at ASCII drawing is not very clear and I believe that you are
also confused with the 1/3 rule on mortices.
Have a look at this link for the 'thirds' rule:
http://www.geoffswoodwork.co.uk/mortise01.htm
Would it be possible for you to sketch out what you are trying to do on a
bit of A4 paper, scan this into you computer and upload the resulting
'photo' to www.tinyurl.com and post the link for newsgroups and forums here?
OR, download the free google program Sketchup (http://sketchup.google.com/)
design what you want and then post a link to that here?
Tanner-'op
date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 19:03:52 +0100
author: Tanner-'op tannerop@i......nvalid.com
|
Re: Joints requirements
John Rumm wrote:
> Bob Minchin wrote:
>
>> You might find this useful.
>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/Guide/Doors.pdf It
>> is still being refined and will be published here in time
>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk
>
>
> Very nice bit of work Bob!
>
>
>
John, Whilst I am a member of the team helping on these guides, I can't
claim much credit for them
My role is as a reviewer from the perspective of an amateur/D-I-Yer.
The guides are produced by one or two pros who are keen to help the less
experienced but have noted that the same type of questions come up time
and time again. Hence the guides are being written around those popular
topics.
Bob
date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 22:25:56 +0100
author: Bob Minchin
|
Re: Joints requirements
"Tanner-'op" <tannerop@i......nvalid.com> wrote in message
news:6cslg3F3i38rqU1@mid.individual.net...
> Arthur2 wrote:
>> "Tanner-'op" <tannerop@i......nvalid.com> wrote in message
>> news:6cpsjaF1iegd1U1@mid.individual.net...
>>> Bob Minchin wrote:
>>>> Tanner-'op wrote:
>>>>> Arthur2 wrote:
>>>>>> I have 1 or 2 books on carpentry but none of them tell me
>>>>>> where I should use each joint type.
>>>>>> Diagram below shows X where I must use cross halvings.
>>>>>> I have been assuming that I Must use M&T at A,B and D
>>>>>>
>>>>>> (M = M&T)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> A--------B---------------------------B--------A
>>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D | |
>>>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> | | | |
>>>>>>>> | | | | |
>>>>>>>> D ------M M---------D | |
>>>>>>>> | |
>>>>>>>>>> | | | | | | |
>>>>>>>>>> D-------X---------------------------X--------D | | |
>>>>>> ===================================== (door step)
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Is it ok to use lap or halving joints at A,B or D intersections?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Arthur
>>>>>
>>>>> Arthur,
>>>>>
>>>>> On a combination and simple external door frames, all the joints
>>>>> are mortice and tenon and are usually scribed or mitred to whatever
>>>>> moulding you have on the frame (if any) - you don't use 'cross
>>>>> halvings' See the very rough sketch at the following Tinypic.com
>>>>> link: http://i29.tinypic.com/2pqkint.jpg
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Tanner-'op
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>> You might find this useful.
>>>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk/Guide/Doors.pdf
>>>> It is still being refined and will be published here in time
>>>> http://www.practicaljoineryandcabinetryguides.co.uk
>>>> Bob
>>>
>>> Not quite sure who you are replying to Bob.
>>>
>>> Tried your link but the PDF kept crashing but from what I did see,
>>> it was the construction of a door rather than the door frame that I
>>> presume Arthur2 is making - and you still wouldn't use "cross
>>> halvings" when making a panelled door - but you would get
>>> 'gun-stock' stiles on some though!
>>>
>>> BTW, if it was directed at me, thanks for the info but I was making
>>> those things way back in the mid '60's as a very young apprentice
>>> carpenter & joiner - all done by hand at the time (I had a begger of
>>> an apprentice master who wouldn't even let me use a mortice machine
>>> until I had done 3 years of a 5 year apprenticeship).
>>>
>>>
>>> Tanner-'op
>>>
>>>
>>
>> To Bob and Tanner-'op.
>> I am using 100mm x 63mm (92mm x 57mm) pre-rebated and with ovolo
>> moulding. On the subject of M & T's I have had replies to posts
>> stressing only the 1/3 ratio.
>> eg, tenon 1/3 thickness of stock.
>> So by this ratio the tenon for the above stock would be 30mm x 10mm
>> because the narrowest part of the stock is 32mm due to the double
>> rebate. ie
>>
>> +---------------------------+
>>> |
>>> +----------------------+
>>> -------------------------- | 32mm
>>> wide | |
>>>
>>> | |
>>>
>>> | |
>>>
>>> | |
>>>
>>> |--------------------------| |
>>> +-----------------------+
>>> |
>> +-------------------------- +
>> But if the horizontal piece is at right angles to the vertical (re
>> stiffening members at D--M and M--D half way down the door)
>> I believe you could thicken the tenon until the shoulder is only
>> 3/4mm wide and use
>> a tenon approx 25mm square. This will give a greater glueing area.
>>
>> I would appreciate your advice.
>>
>> Thanks
>>
>> Arthur
>
> Arthur,
>
> Your attempts at ASCII drawing is not very clear and I believe that you
> are also confused with the 1/3 rule on mortices.
>
> Have a look at this link for the 'thirds' rule:
> http://www.geoffswoodwork.co.uk/mortise01.htm
>
> Would it be possible for you to sketch out what you are trying to do on a
> bit of A4 paper, scan this into you computer and upload the resulting
> 'photo' to www.tinyurl.com and post the link for newsgroups and forums
> here?
>
> OR, download the free google program Sketchup
> (http://sketchup.google.com/) design what you want and then post a link to
> that here?
>
> Tanner-'op
>
Hi.
I've just realised I was making things too complicated. (overcooking is my
forte)
I was describing tenons with 4 haunches/shoulders which I'm hoping is not
necessary.
So taking the section I've described previously 92 x 57 doube rebated.
I think I only require a tenon cut across the short width of the section and
this will
be a 2 sided tenon only?
My mortising m/c has only have 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2" chisels so the tenon will be
1" thick or 1-1/4"
So I think this what I require,
http://i308.photobucket.com/albums/kk345/TALLYMO2/tenon-1.jpg
The square in middle of cross section is end the of tenon.
Arthur
date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 22:27:14 +0100
author: Arthur2
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