Took our boat to the Great Ouse from the Thames and discovered the
outboard trim tab had been eaten away about 95%. Bought a new trim tab
anode from a local Honda dealer, fitted it and almost forgot about it.
Decided to check the part number online and it turns out the anode he
supplied is ZINC which unsuitable for freshwater, should be magnesium.
Tried today to contact Honda UK to no avail, tried 7 other Honda
dealers to no avail and finally got one up North to quote me for a
freshwater anode, comes back with the same part number! rang my dealer
and asked did he know what anodes do, and the differences between zinc
etc, he said yes but had "supplied 100s" in the past without
problems!!

Are Honda and its dealers completely useless when it comes to marine?

Anyone know where one can get magnesium anodes?

Gary wrote:
> Took our boat to the Great Ouse from the Thames and discovered the
> outboard trim tab had been eaten away about 95%. Bought a new trim tab
> anode from a local Honda dealer, fitted it and almost forgot about it.
> Decided to check the part number online and it turns out the anode he
> supplied is ZINC which unsuitable for freshwater, should be magnesium.
> Tried today to contact Honda UK to no avail, tried 7 other Honda
> dealers to no avail and finally got one up North to quote me for a
> freshwater anode, comes back with the same part number! rang my dealer
> and asked did he know what anodes do, and the differences between zinc
> etc, he said yes but had "supplied 100s" in the past without
> problems!!
>
> Are Honda and its dealers completely useless when it comes to marine?
>
> Anyone know where one can get magnesium anodes?

Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.
IMHO you will not find magnesium alloy anodes for outboards - any make - 
they don't exist.
Zinc *will* give some protection, just not as good.  Contact needs to be 
good!  Often only a single screw holds the anode in place, need to remove 
anode, clean well the anode (or get new one) with wire brush and the 
attachment place before putting back on.  You might like to consider (done 
this - seems to work) adding some more anodes - bolt to the top of the 
cavitation plate.

-- 
Ron Jones
Process Safety & Development, Alfa Aesar Avocado Lancaster UK
Don't repeat history, see unreported near misses in chemical lab/plant
at http://www.crhf.org.uk
Only two things are certain: The universe and human stupidity; and I'm
not certain about the universe. ~ Albert Einstein

On Mon, 13 Mar 2006 21:42:22 -0000, "Ron Jones" 
wrote:

>Gary wrote:
>> Took our boat to the Great Ouse from the Thames and discovered the
>> outboard trim tab had been eaten away about 95%. Bought a new trim tab
>> anode from a local Honda dealer, fitted it and almost forgot about it.
>> Decided to check the part number online and it turns out the anode he
>> supplied is ZINC which unsuitable for freshwater, should be magnesium.
>> Tried today to contact Honda UK to no avail, tried 7 other Honda
>> dealers to no avail and finally got one up North to quote me for a
>> freshwater anode, comes back with the same part number! rang my dealer
>> and asked did he know what anodes do, and the differences between zinc
>> etc, he said yes but had "supplied 100s" in the past without
>> problems!!
>>
>> Are Honda and its dealers completely useless when it comes to marine?
>>
>> Anyone know where one can get magnesium anodes?
>
>Been there, done that, got the t-shirt.
>IMHO you will not find magnesium alloy anodes for outboards - any make - 
>they don't exist.
>Zinc *will* give some protection, just not as good.  Contact needs to be 
>good!  Often only a single screw holds the anode in place, need to remove 
>anode, clean well the anode (or get new one) with wire brush and the 
>attachment place before putting back on.  You might like to consider (done 
>this - seems to work) adding some more anodes - bolt to the top of the 
>cavitation plate.

Thanks. I did read somewhere they said if you're really stuck, to just
dangle an anode in the water attached to the engine with a crocodile
clip, seems logical I guess, surely cant be any worse..lol

"Gary"  wrote in message
news:WDmRf.1222$Tv.184@newsfe5-gui.ntli.net...

> Thanks. I did read somewhere they said if you're really stuck, to
just
> dangle an anode in the water attached to the engine with a crocodile
> clip, seems logical I guess, surely cant be any worse..lol

When the outboard is tilted is the leg fully out of the water?
If so, I would think the best option would be to tilt the
outboard whenever the boat is moored.
I always used to do this when I had a Yamaha outboard
and I never detected any corrosion.

Phil

On Mon, 13 Mar 2006 23:00:44 -0000, "Phil R" 
wrote:

>
>"Gary"  wrote in message
>news:WDmRf.1222$Tv.184@newsfe5-gui.ntli.net...
>
>> Thanks. I did read somewhere they said if you're really stuck, to
>just
>> dangle an anode in the water attached to the engine with a crocodile
>> clip, seems logical I guess, surely cant be any worse..lol
>
>When the outboard is tilted is the leg fully out of the water?
>If so, I would think the best option would be to tilt the
>outboard whenever the boat is moored.
>I always used to do this when I had a Yamaha outboard
>and I never detected any corrosion.

Big problem at the moment as the design of the boat doesnt allow for
tilted engines (Viking 26). I am in the process of cutting out a
section of the fibreglass atop the engine so that I can tilt it, so
yours will be a good idea, although it would still be nice to find a
magnesium anode for it.

Thanks.

Not quite clear on the standards, or my interpretation.

We want to fit a room sealed heater/immersion on our Viking 26 a Truma
C4002 EL which is a 4 port gas fan heater, 2kw & 4kw settings, plus an
immersion heater for the water (240v)

We want to fit this inside the boat as we dont want electrics etc
getting damp if on deck in cupboard etc. Apart from ensuring the gas
pipe is copper to the boiler, and the unit is bolted to the floor, are
there any other BSC issues we need to be aware of?

Does the unit have to be in a cupboard? as we have decided it would
fit better under the dining table with the heater ports exposed and
then we would only need to pipe the hot air for one port to the front
of the boat. We can of course box the unit in under the table and will
very likely do this anyway, just wondered where BSC stood?

Gas bottles: We would like to use a 13KG Propane/Butane bottle fitted
inside a deck cupboard with a door, but from the BSC notes I gather
this is not allowed and bottle should be fitted inside a drop in
cupboard with a lid above the tap/valve, this would also presumably
need to be vented at the bottom to the outside of the boat? We plan to
utilise an existing storage cupboard and spray the whole interior with
that stonechip stuff to seal the inside. Is this OK?

On Tue, 14 Mar 2006 11:01:56 GMT, boats2006a@yahoo.co.uk (Gary) wrote:

>Not quite clear on the standards, or my interpretation.

>Gas bottles: We would like to use a 13KG Propane/Butane bottle fitted
>inside a deck cupboard with a door, but from the BSC notes I gather
>this is not allowed and bottle should be fitted inside a drop in
>cupboard with a lid above the tap/valve, this would also presumably
>need to be vented at the bottom to the outside of the boat? We plan to
>utilise an existing storage cupboard and spray the whole interior with
>that stonechip stuff to seal the inside. Is this OK?

My gas bottles locker is, in effect, a sealed steel deck cuboard with
a door and a fixed top.  The doorway has a sill (about 4 cm high), and
the cupboard has an overboard gas drain.  The barge has a BSS
certificate.

Adrian

Adrian Stott
adrian@spam.co.uk
07956-299966

Call the BSS Office on 01923 201278 or send an email to
bss.enquiries@b...safetysch...com. Address your query to my colleagues,
Phil or Dave, on the technical side of the team. A photo of the
preferred deck cupboard would be useful to discuss it as a possible
option - see check item 7.2.3 chapter 7 page 9. Also send the
specification of proposed sealant although they might offer other
useful options, but I also draw your attention to the note in check
item 7.4.5

The drain options are in section 7.3 (including a diagram on page 12
chapter 7). The lid above the high pressure equipment is asked for to
protect the kit from physical damage see question at 7.4.3.

My colleagues will chat you through the options so it might be usefull
to have the relevent sections of chapter 7 ready when you speak to
them.

All references are to the 2005 second edition of the BSS Essential
Guide

Rob @ BSSOffice