Simple question really i have soem old 00 track thats been in the loft
for years and years and i thought i would see if my old trains still
worked before i build it backup again.

But the track as you can imagine is really quite dirty now, so whats
the best way to clean it up? is there a liquid based solution that you
can use to bring it back to new or do you just use a metal sandpaper.

Or am i wastining my time and should bin it all and go out and by some
new track.

Cheers Ray

"Ray"  wrote in message 
news:a64d0c4e-1f2f-4d53-ab23-c4067f761d0c@m45g2000hsb.googlegroups.com...
> Simple question really i have soem old 00 track thats been in the 
> loft
> for years and years and i thought i would see if my old trains still
> worked before i build it backup again.
>
> But the track as you can imagine is really quite dirty now, so whats
> the best way to clean it up? is there a liquid based solution that 
> you
> can use to bring it back to new or do you just use a metal 
> sandpaper.

A proper track cleaning 'rubber', Peco make one that any half decent 
local model railway/hobby shop should stock, failing that there will 
no end of online stockists.

>
> Or am i wastining my time and should bin it all and go out and by 
> some
> new track.
>

That really depends on what make it is and how old is 'old'...
-- 
Wikipedia: the Internet equivalent of
Hyde Park and 'speakers corner'...

"Ray"  wrote

> Simple question really i have soem old 00 track thats been in the loft
> for years and years and i thought i would see if my old trains still
> worked before i build it backup again.
>
> But the track as you can imagine is really quite dirty now, so whats
> the best way to clean it up? is there a liquid based solution that you
> can use to bring it back to new or do you just use a metal sandpaper.

Firstly you need to ascertain whether the rail is manufactured from steel or 
nickel-silver (steel is magnetic).  If it's steel then check carefully to 
see whether it is dirty or rusty - if it's rusty then you're wasting your 
time trying to make it useable.

If it's nickel-silver then wash the various pieces in warm soapy water and 
when thoroughly dry follow Jerry's advice and use a track rubber (Peco make 
one) to burnish the rail surface to a bright shiny finish.  It should then 
be ready for use.

John.

Ray wrote:
> Simple question really i have soem old 00 track thats been in the loft
> for years and years and i thought i would see if my old trains still
> worked before i build it backup again.
>
> But the track as you can imagine is really quite dirty now, so whats
> the best way to clean it up? is there a liquid based solution that you
> can use to bring it back to new or do you just use a metal sandpaper.
>
> Or am i wastining my time and should bin it all and go out and by some
> new track.

Following from the earlier replies, personally I loathe Peco track rubbers; 
the grit is very coarse and scratches the rail making it more likely to get 
dirty, and they fragment into blue rubbery gritty bits everywhere.

A readily available alternative fine abrasive is a flexible nail polishing 
stick, sold at the cosmetics counter.  It looks like an over-fat lolly 
stick, is flexible, and has a very fine abrasive on part of the front face 
of the stick.



- Nigel

-- 
Nigel Cliffe,
Webmaster at http://www.2mm.org.uk/

In message 
, Ray 
 writes
>Simple question really i have soem old 00 track thats been in the loft
>for years and years and i thought i would see if my old trains still
>worked before i build it backup again.
>
>But the track as you can imagine is really quite dirty now, so whats
>the best way to clean it up? is there a liquid based solution that you
>can use to bring it back to new or do you just use a metal sandpaper.
>
>Or am i wastining my time and should bin it all and go out and by some
>new track.
>
>Cheers Ray

A lot depends upon the type of track that you are using.

If it's nickel silver it will clean up fairly easily with some *very 
fine* metal paper or if you can get on a glass fibre scratch brush. 
There are also a number of proprietary rubber 'eraser' types you can buy

If it's steel rail then you will see rust on the rails. These can, in 
theory be cleaned but I suggest that you just ditch them and buy new as 
you're unlikely to be able to get a good enough finish for reliable 
running.

-- 
Mike Hughes
A Taxi driver licensed for London and Brighton
at home in Tarring, West Sussex, England
Interested in American trains real and model?
Look here http://mikehughes627.fotopic.net/

"John Turner" <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote in message 
news:QZKdnaxRXZgJDlvVnZ2dnUVZ8vCdnZ2d@supernews.com...
>
<snip>
>
> If it's nickel-silver then wash the various pieces in warm soapy 
> water

But preferably NOT with washing up liquid, if you do then you need to 
make sure you *thoroughly* rinse all traces of detergent off, salt 
(which is what is in the manufacture, helps to thicken the liquid and 
acts as a mild cleaning acid [1]) getting into locomotive mechanisms 
will do no good what so ever... :~(

[1] and is why it's not a good idea to use washing up liquid to wash 
the car either!
-- 
Wikipedia: the Internet equivalent of
Hyde Park and 'speakers corner'...

On 9 Sep, 17:11, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
> "John Turner" <nos...@nospam.invalid> wrote in message
>
> news:QZKdnaxRXZgJDlvVnZ2dnUVZ8vCdnZ2d@supernews.com...
>
>
>
> <snip>
>
> > If it's nickel-silver then wash the various pieces in warm soapy
> > water
>
> But preferably NOT with washing up liquid, if you do then you need to
> make sure you *thoroughly* rinse all traces of detergent off, salt
> (which is what is in the manufacture, helps to thicken the liquid and
> acts as a mild cleaning acid [1]) getting into locomotive mechanisms
> will do no good what so ever... :~(
>
> [1] and is why it's not a good idea to use washing up liquid to wash
> the car either!

I use chalk sticks mixed with a little warm water to form a paste,
best done prior to fitting track to baseboard though !

Chris

"Dragon Heart"  wrote in message 
news:f122a60b-f17a-42b3-a4ce-27d1daa36072@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
<snip>
>
> I use chalk sticks mixed with a little warm water to form a paste,
> best done prior to fitting track to baseboard though !
>

It'll clean your teeth too, if you want - or should that be, if you're 
desperate!.... :~)
-- 
Wikipedia: the Internet equivalent of
Hyde Park and 'speakers corner'...

On 9 Sep, 21:06, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
> "Dragon Heart"  wrote in message
>
> news:f122a60b-f17a-42b3-a4ce-27d1daa36072@j22g2000hsf.googlegroups.com...
> <snip>
>
>
>
> > I use chalk sticks mixed with a little warm water to form a paste,
> > best done prior to fitting track to baseboard though !
>
> It'll clean your teeth too, if you want - or should that be, if you're
> desperate!.... :~)
> --
What teeth ?

Now see what you've done !!!!!!!  You've created a dentist ad in the
sponsored links :-(

"Dragon Heart"  wrote in message 
news:a1b55d8e-6cd5-4788-baaa-3ef211a737fe@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
<snip>
>
> Now see what you've done !!!!!!!  You've created a dentist ad in the
> sponsored links :-(

Well get yourself a proper Usenet account and you won't be burdened by 
Google greed!...

Seriously, if you already have a newsreader or can install one then 
you really would be better off from doing so, you can obtain a free 
Usenet account at http://news.motzarella.org/index.php, not at all bad 
for a free (text only [1]) server.

[1] as Google Groups is text only anyway that should not be a problem
-- 
Wikipedia: the Internet equivalent of
Hyde Park and 'speakers corner'...

Ray wrote:
> Simple question really i have soem old 00 track thats been in the loft
> for years and years and i thought i would see if my old trains still
> worked before i build it backup again.
> 
> But the track as you can imagine is really quite dirty now, so whats
> the best way to clean it up? is there a liquid based solution that you
> can use to bring it back to new or do you just use a metal sandpaper.
> 
> Or am i wastining my time and should bin it all and go out and by some
> new track.
> 
> Cheers Ray

Well, that's one of those apparently simple questions that turns out to 
be more coml0picated than it seems.


What is it, exactly? "Old OO gauge track" could mean all kinds of 
things. For example, is it old Triang track? Unless you want to run old 
Triang trains on it, it's not worth keeping (but some die-hard Triang 
fan may be grateful to get it.) Etc and so on and so forth.

General comment:

If it's made of brass, dump it. The oxides that form on brass are 
insulators, and you'll be forever cleaning the track, especially if you 
smoke (which I hope you don't, as cigarette money is is better spent on 
model railways!)

Otherwise, use washing up iiquid, or a mild, non-abrasive and 
non-corrosive cleanser, plus a tooth brush, to clean off the dirt. Do 
not use sandpaper or "track rubbers" to clean the rails, use steel wool 
instead. And a magnet to pick up the bits. Abrasive cleaners leave 
scratches, which have two bad properties: they casue sparking, and they 
accumulate gunk, both of which lead to even dirteir track than yoy 
started with. Once you've cleaned the rails with steel wool, use a metal 
polish (the anti-tarnish kind works best) to polish the rial head.

However, if the rail is really dirty, I wouldn't bother cleaning it. 
Track is relatively inexpensive compared to the value of your time. Not 
to mention that cleaning dirty track is not likely to sweeten your 
disposition. ;-)

HTH

-- 
Wolf Kirchmeir

many thanks to all of you for your comments. After reading all the
above and looking at the track again i think its probably not worth my
while and pain in trying to get it all cleaned up and to be honest
some of it looks rather tatty.

So its looks like an ebay and shopping trip coming up.

Cheers ray

"Wolf Kirchmeir"  wrote in message 
news:48c744e2$0$29091$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...
<snip>
>
> Otherwise, use washing up iiquid, or a mild, non-abrasive and 
> non-corrosive cleanser,

Contradict yourself why not!...


plus a tooth brush, to clean off the dirt. Do
> not use sandpaper or "track rubbers" to clean the rails, use steel 
> wool instead.
<snip the rest of your utter clap-trap>

A proper track rubber is less abrasive than steel wool, and less 
likely to leave harmful swarf behind, waiting to get picked up into 
the gears and motors...
-- 
Wikipedia: the Internet equivalent of
Hyde Park and 'speakers corner'...

In article <ga67af$ge4$2@registered.motzarella.org>,
   Jerry <INVALID@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:

> "John Turner" <nospam@nospam.invalid> wrote in message 
> news:QZKdnaxRXZgJDlvVnZ2dnUVZ8vCdnZ2d@supernews.com...
> >
> <snip>
> >
> > If it's nickel-silver then wash the various pieces in warm soapy 
> > water

> But preferably NOT with washing up liquid, if you do then you need to 
> make sure you *thoroughly* rinse all traces of detergent off, salt 
> (which is what is in the manufacture, helps to thicken the liquid and 
> acts as a mild cleaning acid [1]) getting into locomotive mechanisms 
> will do no good what so ever... :~(

> [1] and is why it's not a good idea to use washing up liquid to wash 
> the car either!

A correction. "Salt" - sodium chloride is neutral, its pH in solution
being 7. The reason that salt promotes corrosion in particular rusting is
due to it being ionic not because it is acidic. In damp conditions the
charged ions improve the electrical conductivity of water and thus
electrolytic corrosion of metal is much faster.

Are you sure there is "salt" in detergent? The reason I ask is that when I
was teaching chemistry one of the things I got my students to do when
starting qualitative analysis was to test everyday substances like
detergents for particular ions like sodium and chloride ions. Whilst as
expected (since detergents are usually sodium or potassium compounds of
organic acids) they found sodium ions (flame test) they didn't find
chloride ions (silver nitrate test). However it was in dishwasher powder.

Lanolin used to be added to detergents ("hands as soft as your face")
which would lead to a slightly greasy surface to whatever was washed so
didn't make it very good for electrically surfaces like rails.

NB I am assuming that you are using the eveyday meaning of "salt" ie
common salt or sodium chloride. To chemists salt means a class of ionic
compounds.

Alan

-- 
alan.dawes@argonet.co.uk
alan.dawes@riscos.org
Using an Acorn RiscPC

In article <+eaBJKIpdpxIFwkL@mikehughes.demon.co.uk>,
   Mike Hughes  wrote:
> If it's steel rail then you will see rust on the rails. These can, in 
> theory be cleaned but I suggest that you just ditch them and buy new as 
> you're unlikely to be able to get a good enough finish for reliable 
> running.

The other problem associated with old corroded rail is the electrical
conductivity between rails through the rail joiners. If you do manage to
clean the track replace the old rail joiners with new ones and use a small
needle file to clean the end of the track going into the joiners or solder
wires between each section of track.

Alan

-- 
alan.dawes@argonet.co.uk
alan.dawes@riscos.org
Using an Acorn RiscPC

On Sep 10, 11:17 am, Alan P Dawes  wrote:
> In article <禠䤨詝꜒...@mikehughes.demon.co.uk>,
>    Mike Hughes  wrote:
>
> > If it's steel rail then you will see rust on the rails. These can, in
> > theory be cleaned but I suggest that you just ditch them and buy new as
> > you're unlikely to be able to get a good enough finish for reliable
> > running.
>
> The other problem associated with old corroded rail is the electrical
> conductivity between rails through the rail joiners. If you do manage to
> clean the track replace the old rail joiners with new ones and use a small
> needle file to clean the end of the track going into the joiners or solder
> wires between each section of track.

Or wire it properly with droppers to each piece of track.

MBQ

On Sep 10, 9:46 am, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
> "Wolf Kirchmeir"  wrote in message
>
> news:48c744e2$0$29091$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...
> <snip>
>
>
>
> > Otherwise, use washing up iiquid, or a mild, non-abrasive and
> > non-corrosive cleanser,
>
> Contradict yourself why not!...
>
> plus a tooth brush, to clean off the dirt. Do> not use sandpaper or "track rubbers" to clean the rails, use steel
> > wool instead.
>
> <snip the rest of your utter clap-trap>
>
> A proper track rubber

So why did you recommend the Peco one? It's probably the worst
possible choice of track rubber.

MBQ

> A correction. "Salt" - sodium chloride is neutral, its pH in solution
> being 7. The reason that salt promotes corrosion in particular rusting
> is due to it being ionic not because it is acidic. In damp conditions
> the charged ions improve the electrical conductivity of water and thus
> electrolytic corrosion of metal is much faster.
> 
> Are you sure there is "salt" in detergent? The reason I ask is that
> when I was teaching chemistry one of the things I got my students to
> do when starting qualitative analysis was to test everyday substances
> like detergents for particular ions like sodium and chloride ions.
> Whilst as expected (since detergents are usually sodium or potassium
> compounds of organic acids) they found sodium ions (flame test) they
> didn't find chloride ions (silver nitrate test). However it was in
> dishwasher powder. 
> 
A funny thing happened on the way to my chem lectures this week - we're 
studying detergents so I can answer your question.

There are 4 different detergent types anionic, cationic, non ionic and 
zwitterion (yes it's a real word).

Anionic surfactants have sodium as the active hydrophilic head. Anionic 
surfactants are used in dishwashing detergents as glass and china is 
negatively charged from the silica used in their production so tend to 
attract positively charged dirt and personal care products because its a 
cheap foaming agent.

Cationic surfactants have chlorine in their active head. They are 
typically used in fabric detergents to soften the fibres - the fibres 
have a negative charge that repel each other to produce stiffness. The 
cationic head removes the negative charges thus softening the fabric. 
They are also used in shampoo and mouthwash.

I wont bore you with more, but there was no mention of sodium chloride 
in any of the discussion of detergents, nor would I expect there to be 
given the alleged criteria for a good detergent is a hydrophilic active 
head and a hydrophobic part, which form miscelles. Salt is ionic and 
totally dissolves in water and I wouldn't expect it to form a conjugate 
base or acid either without an excess of protons or hydroxide ions in 
the water somehow as the result of another ingredient (although water 
ionisation is a further discussion for another day and not for an OT 
discussion on this group).

> Following from the earlier replies, personally I loathe Peco track
> rubbers; the grit is very coarse and scratches the rail making it more
> likely to get dirty, and they fragment into blue rubbery gritty bits
> everywhere. 
> 
> A readily available alternative fine abrasive is a flexible nail
> polishing stick, sold at the cosmetics counter.  It looks like an
> over-fat lolly stick, is flexible, and has a very fine abrasive on
> part of the front face of the stick.
> 
> 
> 
> - Nigel
> 

The Fleischmann track rubber is often available, is finer and harder and is 
far superior to the Peco one.

wrote in message 
news:2c7c776f-ba10-4da0-a61c-511df1d029eb@26g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...

>  It's probably the worst possible choice of track rubber.

IYO, and considering that you don't have the brain cells to find a 
proper nntp server...

wrote in message 
news:55f535d0-362d-4fcf-b57e-d2d821fd586e@m3g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...

<snip>
> Or wire it properly with droppers to each piece of track.

Yeh, sure, you make assumptions that this isn't (train)set-track that 
is going to be used on a track-mat or table-top... Another well 
thought out Google 'Groupie' comment - NOT. :~(
-- 
 "You obviously couldn't get a clue if you rolled in clue
 musk and performed the clue mating dance in the middle
 of a field full of horny clues at the height of the
 clue mating season!"

In uk.rec.models.rail, on 10 Sep 2008, Ray 
announced:

> many thanks to all of you for your comments.
> After reading all the above and looking at the
> track again i think its probably not worth my
> while and pain in trying to get it all cleaned
> up and to be honest some of it looks rather
> tatty. 

Hi everyone,

I have some track in a similar condition, and one 
thing I was
thinking of doing, is weathering it (a bit more), 
and using a
pile of it as scenery, as in old track that has 
been
replaced, but still left by the side of the track 
awaiting
removal. 

You could also do the same thing but lay a 
'track' of it,
very rusty and covered in weeds, as a disused (and
disconnected from the mainline) old line. 

Just my thought on a couple of other things you 
could do
rather than just bin it :) 

Regards

Quentin.

On Sep 10, 12:43 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>  wrote in message
>
> news:55f535d0-362d-4fcf-b57e-d2d821fd586e@m3g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
>
> <snip>
>
> > Or wire it properly with droppers to each piece of track.
>
> Yeh, sure, you make assumptions that this isn't (train)set-track that
> is going to be used on a track-mat or table-top...

If that were the case then I expect the OP would have just tried the
track to see if it worked.

> Another well
> thought out Google 'Groupie' comment - NOT. :~(

ditto.

On Sep 10, 12:37 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>  wrote in message
>
> news:2c7c776f-ba10-4da0-a61c-511df1d029eb@26g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...
>
> >  It's probably the worst possible choice of track rubber.
>
> IYO,

And plenty of others' opinion too, see the post about the Fleischmann
one.

> and considering that you don't have the brain cells to find a
> proper nntp server...

IYO. You know full well why I don't use an nntp server, since we've
had this argument before.

MBQ

wrote in message 
news:77cb9c6e-80ba-4496-8b41-b0aaf83fcb06@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 10, 12:37 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>  wrote in message
>
> news:2c7c776f-ba10-4da0-a61c-511df1d029eb@26g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...
>
>> > It's probably the worst possible choice of track rubber.
>
>> IYO,
>
> And plenty of others' opinion too, see the post about the
> Fleischmann one.

Indeed, and beauty is in the hands of the beholder, just as the 
ham-fisted blame their tools...

>>  and considering that you don't have the brain cells
>>  to find a proper nntp server...
>
> IYO. You know full well why I don't use an nntp server,
> since we've had this argument before.


The only valid reason is that you are using (some might say stealing) 
someone else's IT/IP resources that mean you can't install your own 
account/software....
-- 
Wikipedia: the Internet equivalent of
Hyde Park and 'speakers corner'...

wrote in message 
news:ae3781da-5b71-4875-b668-9cc39d751c30@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
<snip>

If that were the case then I expect the OP would have just tried the
track to see if it worked.

Perhaps, unlike you, he has at least one working brain cell and one 
working eye, meaning that he can see that the track is dirty and would 
not work correctly?!...
-- 
 "You obviously couldn't get a clue if you rolled in clue
 musk and performed the clue mating dance in the middle
 of a field full of horny clues at the height of the
 clue mating season!"

Jerry wrote:
> "Wolf Kirchmeir"  wrote in message 
> news:48c744e2$0$29091$9a6e19ea@news.newshosting.com...
> <snip>
>> Otherwise, use washing up iiquid, or a mild, non-abrasive and 
>> non-corrosive cleanser,
> 
> Contradict yourself why not!...

Huh? Are you saying that dishwashing liqudi is like VIM or other heavy 
duty, corrosive cleansers? Or maybe in the UK the formulation is 
different. If it is corrosive, a) I apologise for assuming that it's the 
same stuff as what we get over here; and b) I think you should agitate 
for a safer product.

Maybe instead of "other...cleanser", I should have explicitly specified 
citrus-based cleansers - dissolve not only plain ordinary gunk, but 
grease, sticky-label glue, and goodness knows what else. Great stuff. 
And rinses off very nicely in clean tap water.

> plus a tooth brush, to clean off the dirt. Do
>> not use sandpaper or "track rubbers" to clean the rails, use steel 
>> wool instead.
> <snip the rest of your utter clap-trap>

Oooh, rational argument! Such a rare occurrence on this forum! Nice to 
see an elevated standard of discussion for a change!

> A proper track rubber is less abrasive than steel wool,  and less
> likely to leave harmful swarf behind, waiting to get picked up into 
> the gears and motors...

That's why I _explicitly_ referred to a magnet to pick up the bits.

-- 
Wolf Kirchmeir

OgO wrote:
> In uk.rec.models.rail, on 10 Sep 2008, Ray 
> announced:
> 
>> many thanks to all of you for your comments.
>> After reading all the above and looking at the
>> track again i think its probably not worth my
>> while and pain in trying to get it all cleaned
>> up and to be honest some of it looks rather
>> tatty. 
> 
> Hi everyone,
> 
> I have some track in a similar condition, and one 
> thing I was
> thinking of doing, is weathering it (a bit more), 
> and using a
> pile of it as scenery, as in old track that has 
> been
> replaced, but still left by the side of the track 
> awaiting
> removal. 
> 
> You could also do the same thing but lay a 
> 'track' of it,
> very rusty and covered in weeds, as a disused (and
> disconnected from the mainline) old line. 
> 
> Just my thought on a couple of other things you 
> could do
> rather than just bin it :) 
> 
> Regards
> 
> Quentin.


Good ideas, all, IMO. The latest Model Railroader has a couple of 
articles on how to model different types of track - mainline, sidings, 
industrial spurs, disused branch lines, etc. Worth a look, even though 
it's American prototype. Weeds look much the same everywhere. ;-).

And you can, erm, "accidentally" find yourself crossing a slew of 
different rail lines on your next drive in the country, "just a mo' 
while I take a couple of photos..." ;-)

-- 
Wolf Kirchmeir

Melbournian wrote:
> 
> There are 4 different detergent types anionic, cationic, non ionic and 
> zwitterion (yes it's a real word).

Is Wanklyn's solution still around...?

-- 
Arthur Figgis               Surrey, UK

Jerry wrote:
>  wrote in message 
> news:ae3781da-5b71-4875-b668-9cc39d751c30@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
> <snip>
> 
> If that were the case then I expect the OP would have just tried the
> track to see if it worked.
> 
> Perhaps, unlike you, he has at least one working brain cell and one 
> working eye, meaning that he can see that the track is dirty and would 
> not work correctly?!...

I've got this stuff in front of me. Do I
(a) try it and get the definitive answer immediately
(b) post to a usenet group and see what random people without the full 
facts thing might happen if and when I do (a).

Hmm.

-- 
Arthur Figgis               Surrey, UK

Arthur Figgis wrote:
> Jerry wrote:
>>  wrote in message 
>> news:ae3781da-5b71-4875-b668-9cc39d751c30@c58g2000hsc.googlegroups.com...
>> <snip>
>>
>> If that were the case then I expect the OP would have just tried the
>> track to see if it worked.
>>
>> Perhaps, unlike you, he has at least one working brain cell and one 
>> working eye, meaning that he can see that the track is dirty and would 
>> not work correctly?!...
> 
> I've got this stuff in front of me.

(and only want to use it on a track mat or table top)

  Do I
> (a) try it and get the definitive answer immediately
> (b) post to a usenet group and see what random people without the full 
> facts thing might happen if and when I do (a).
> 
> Hmm.
> 


-- 
Arthur Figgis               Surrey, UK

On 10 Sep 2008 12:18:43 GMT, OgO  wrote:

>In uk.rec.models.rail, on 10 Sep 2008, Ray 
>announced:
>
>> many thanks to all of you for your comments.
>> After reading all the above and looking at the
>> track again i think its probably not worth my
>> while and pain in trying to get it all cleaned
>> up 
>
>Hi everyone,
>
>I have some track in a similar condition, and one 
>thing I was
>thinking of doing, is weathering it (a bit more), 
>and using a
>pile of it as scenery, as in old track that has 
>been
>. 
>
>You could also do the same thing but lay a 
>'track' of it,
>very rusty and covered in weeds, as a disused (and
>disconnected from the mainline) old line. 
>
>
 One of my earliest "model railway" attempts as opposed to a train set
on a board featured some very rusty Tri-ang series 3 track.It got that
way after I had set in polyfilla to imitate inset track.
Some may remember this had sleepers spaced  widely apart in a far from
realistic look.  However to my 12 year old eyes it looked alright for
a narrow gauge line so I built one.  No particular scale but close to
what has become O 16.5  . Stock was very crude being home made
cardboard bodies on some 3 rail Hornby Dublo wagons I had been given
but had never been able to use.   Diesel outline Loco was on a Tri-ang
clock work chassis that I had also been given, the whole inspiration
coming from a clay pit line a couple of miles away which was actually
3ft gauge.
The clockwork meant that the rustiness of the track and the metal
axles of the wagons were of no consequence. The whole caboosh only
lasted a few weeks till the end of some school holidays but it was fun
at the time.
G.harman

Arthur Figgis <afiggis@example.com.invalid> wrote in news:
_Z6dneqWvty6mVXVnZ2dnUVZ8tbinZ2d@posted.plusnet:

> Melbournian wrote:
>> 
>> There are 4 different detergent types anionic, cationic, non ionic and 
>> zwitterion (yes it's a real word).
> 
> Is Wanklyn's solution still around...?
> 

No idea. I still get a giggle from the term 'mole' although I believe has 
more meaning locally to refer to certain types of young women than it may 
do in your neck of the woods...

In message 
          damduck-egg@yahoo.co.uk wrote:

> On 10 Sep 2008 12:18:43 GMT, OgO  wrote:
> 
> >In uk.rec.models.rail, on 10 Sep 2008, Ray 
> >announced:
> >
> >> many thanks to all of you for your comments.
> >> After reading all the above and looking at the
> >> track again i think its probably not worth my
> >> while and pain in trying to get it all cleaned
> >> up 
> >
> >Hi everyone,
> >
> >I have some track in a similar condition, and one 
> >thing I was
> >thinking of doing, is weathering it (a bit more), 
> >and using a
> >pile of it as scenery, as in old track that has 
> >been
> >. 
> >
> >You could also do the same thing but lay a 
> >'track' of it,
> >very rusty and covered in weeds, as a disused (and
> >disconnected from the mainline) old line. 
> >
> >
>  One of my earliest "model railway" attempts as opposed to a train set
> on a board featured some very rusty Tri-ang series 3 track.It got that
> way after I had set in polyfilla to imitate inset track.
> Some may remember this had sleepers spaced  widely apart in a far from
> realistic look.  However to my 12 year old eyes it looked alright for
> a narrow gauge line so I built one.  No particular scale but close to
> what has become O 16.5  . Stock was very crude being home made
> cardboard bodies on some 3 rail Hornby Dublo wagons I had been given
> but had never been able to use.   Diesel outline Loco was on a Tri-ang
> clock work chassis that I had also been given, the whole inspiration
> coming from a clay pit line a couple of miles away which was actually
> 3ft gauge.
> The clockwork meant that the rustiness of the track and the metal
> axles of the wagons were of no consequence. The whole caboosh only
> lasted a few weeks till the end of some school holidays but it was fun
> at the time.
> G.harman

<cloth cap mode>
   <Cue Hovis music>
       "Eee, Lad, That were real modellin' "
   </Hovis music>
</cloth cap mode>

Seriously though, how many would do that sort of thing today I 
wonder?

Cheers
Richard    
   
-- 
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk       sales@beamends-lrspares.co.uk
              I have become... comfortably numb

On Sep 9, 4:44 pm, Ray  wrote:
> Simple question really i have soem old 00 track thats been in the loft
> for years and years and i thought i would see if my old trains still
> worked before i build it backup again.
>
> But the track as you can imagine is really quite dirty now, so whats
> the best way to clean it up? is there a liquid based solution that you
> can use to bring it back to new or do you just use a metal sandpaper.
>
> Or am i wastining my time and should bin it all and go out and by some
> new track.
>
> Cheers Ray

I have had great success using vinegar (any type ). I drop the track
into a bowl and let it soak for about 5 minutes and then rinse in
clean water.  Long lengths entail using a long pyrex dish and passing
the sections back and forth.

Steel track cleans up using glass paper and it good for sidings etc.

Never bin it until you have tried.

Regards

On Sep 10, 2:14 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>  wrote in message
>
> news:77cb9c6e-80ba-4496-8b41-b0aaf83fcb06@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> On Sep 10, 12:37 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>
> >  wrote in message
>
> >news:2c7c776f-ba10-4da0-a61c-511df1d029eb@26g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...
>
> >> > It's probably the worst possible choice of track rubber.
>
> >> IYO,
>
> > And plenty of others' opinion too, see the post about the
> > Fleischmann one.
>
> Indeed, and beauty is in the hands of the beholder, just as the
> ham-fisted blame their tools...
>
> >>  and considering that you don't have the brain cells
> >>  to find a proper nntp server...
>
> > IYO. You know full well why I don't use an nntp server,
> > since we've had this argument before.
>
> The only valid reason

Thank you for confirming that.

> is that you are using (some might say stealing)

I've only ever seen you describe it as stealing. Funny that, isn't it.

Others understand that it's quite commonplace for an understanding to
exist between employers and employess for personal use of facilities
such as 'phone, e-mail, etc.

MBQ

On 11 Sep, 11:32, "manatba...@hotmail.com" 
wrote:
> On Sep 10, 2:14 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> >  wrote in message
>
> >news:77cb9c6e-80ba-4496-8b41-b0aaf83fcb06@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com..> > On Sep 10, 12:37 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>
> > >  wrote in message
>
> > >news:2c7c776f-ba10-4da0-a61c-511df1d029eb@26g2000hsk.googlegroups.com.> > >> > It's probably the worst possible choice of track rubber.
>
> > >> IYO,
>
> > > And plenty of others' opinion too, see the post about the
> > > Fleischmann one.
>
> > Indeed, and beauty is in the hands of the beholder, just as the
> > ham-fisted blame their tools...
>
> > >>  and considering that you don't have the brain cells
> > >>  to find a proper nntp server...
>
> > > IYO. You know full well why I don't use an nntp server,
> > > since we've had this argument before.
>
> > The only valid reason
>
> Thank you for confirming that.
>
> > is that you are using (some might say stealing)
>
> I've only ever seen you describe it as stealing. Funny that, isn't it.
>
> Others understand that it's quite commonplace for an understanding to
> exist between employers and employess for personal use of facilities
> such as 'phone, e-mail, etc.
>
> MBQ- Hide quoted text -

Does the tax man know ?  That 'understanding' is a perk -)

On 9 Sep, 22:18, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
> "Dragon Heart"  wrote in message
>
> news:a1b55d8e-6cd5-4788-baaa-3ef211a737fe@m36g2000hse.googlegroups.com...
> <snip>
>
>
>
> > Now see what you've done !!!!!!!  You've created a dentist ad in the
> > sponsored links :-(
>
> Well get yourself a proper Usenet account and you won't be burdened by
> Google greed!...
>
> Seriously, if you already have a newsreader or can install one then
> you really would be better off from doing so, you can obtain a free
> Usenet account athttp://news.motzarella.org/index.php, not at all bad
> for a free (text only [1]) server.
>
> [1] as Google Groups is text only anyway that should not be a problem
> --
> Wikipedia: the Internet equivalent of
> Hyde Park and 'speakers corner'...

"Google greed" ?  What do you think pays for hosting these groups ?

On Sep 12, 12:59 am, Dragon Heart  wrote:
> On 11 Sep, 11:32, "manatba...@hotmail.com" 
> wrote:
>
>
>
> > On Sep 10, 2:14 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>
> > >  wrote in message
>
> > >news:77cb9c6e-80ba-4496-8b41-b0aaf83fcb06@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com> > > On Sep 10, 12:37 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>
> > > >  wrote in message
>
> > > >news:2c7c776f-ba10-4da0-a61c-511df1d029eb@26g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...
>
> > > >> > It's probably the worst possible choice of track rubber.
>
> > > >> IYO,
>
> > > > And plenty of others' opinion too, see the post about the
> > > > Fleischmann one.
>
> > > Indeed, and beauty is in the hands of the beholder, just as the
> > > ham-fisted blame their tools...
>
> > > >>  and considering that you don't have the brain cells
> > > >>  to find a proper nntp server...
>
> > > > IYO. You know full well why I don't use an nntp server,
> > > > since we've had this argument before.
>
> > > The only valid reason
>
> > Thank you for confirming that.
>
> > > is that you are using (some might say stealing)
>
> > I've only ever seen you describe it as stealing. Funny that, isn't it.
>
> > Others understand that it's quite commonplace for an understanding to
> > exist between employers and employess for personal use of facilities
> > such as 'phone, e-mail, etc.
>
> > MBQ- Hide quoted text -
>
> Does the tax man know ?  That 'understanding' is a perk -)

If you don't tell him, I won't either ;-)

In article ,
Dragon Heart   wrote:
>"Google greed" ?  What do you think pays for hosting these groups ?

Who pays for your email connection ?

This (uk.rec.models.rail) is part of USENET:
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Usenet
USENET is not the same as Google Groups, although Google do
participate in USENET.
  http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Google_Groups

Or to put it another way
     newsgroups  are to  Google Groups
as   email       is to   Gmail

-- 
Ian Jackson                  personal email: 
These opinions are my own.        http://www.chiark.greenend.org.uk/~ijackson/
PGP2 key 1024R/0x23f5addb,     fingerprint 5906F687 BD03ACAD 0D8E602E FCF37657

On Sep 10, 9:28 pm, Melbournian  wrote:
>
> The Fleischmann track rubber is often available, is finer and harder and is
> far superior to the Peco one.

Have to agree with this. The Peco one is quite rubbish comared to the
Fleischmann one. It is also useful for a 100 other things around the
house where you need a mild abrasive rub or polish.

Failing that a drop the nickel silver into a bath of coca-cola shines
it up and you can drink the rest so no waste!

On 12 Sep, 09:42, "manatba...@hotmail.com" 
wrote:
> On Sep 12, 12:59 am, Dragon Heart  wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
> > On 11 Sep, 11:32, "manatba...@hotmail.com" 
> > wrote:
>
> > > On Sep 10, 2:14 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>
> > > >  wrote in message
>
> > > >news:77cb9c6e-80ba-4496-8b41-b0aaf83fcb06@f36g2000hsa.googlegroups.com...
> > > > On Sep 10, 12:37 pm, "Jerry" <INVA...@INVALID.INVALID> wrote:
>
> > > > >  wrote in message
>
> > > > >news:2c7c776f-ba10-4da0-a61c-511df1d029eb@26g2000hsk.googlegroups.com...
>
> > > > >> > It's probably the worst possible choice of track rubber.
>
> > > > >> IYO,
>
> > > > > And plenty of others' opinion too, see the post about the
> > > > > Fleischmann one.
>
> > > > Indeed, and beauty is in the hands of the beholder, just as the
> > > > ham-fisted blame their tools...
>
> > > > >>  and considering that you don't have the brain cells
> > > > >>  to find a proper nntp server...
>
> > > > > IYO. You know full well why I don't use an nntp server,
> > > > > since we've had this argument before.
>
> > > > The only valid reason
>
> > > Thank you for confirming that.
>
> > > > is that you are using (some might say stealing)
>
> > > I've only ever seen you describe it as stealing. Funny that, isn't it> > > Others understand that it's quite commonplace for an understanding to
> > > exist between employers and employess for personal use of facilities
> > > such as 'phone, e-mail, etc.
>
> > > MBQ- Hide quoted text -
>
> > Does the tax man know ?  That 'understanding' is a perk -)
>
> If you don't tell him, I won't either ;-)- Hide quoted text -

OK ! :-)Autosol Metal Polish

Track cleaning what about the stuff they used to clean Rolls Royce
cars with ....... Autosol Metal Polish !

http://thepolishingshop.co.uk/acatalog/Metal_Polish.html