I am ressurecting a couple of old Triang dmus. One of them, after
motor stripping and servicing, is working very smoothly, and after
turning the edges of the wheels, makes far less clatter than it used
to. Now, I have reversed the polarity, making sure to reverse the
wheels etc - (the models ran the opposite way to evrything else on the
layout)  and the first motor is very happy with the
arrangement.However, the second motor will not pick up current from
the track. I have checked all the connections from wheels, pickups etc
right thru to the brushes and it is all connected. When I place it on
the track, nothing happens, but if I tickle the brush on the insulated
side with a wire touching the appropriate track, it moves
immediately.  I am not asking for anyone to diagnose without seeing
it, but is there a common fault with these old motors that I should be
aware of?

TIA

JD

john_dolan3319@yahoo.co.uk wrote:
> 
> I am ressurecting a couple of old Triang dmus. One of them, after
> motor stripping and servicing, is working very smoothly, and after
> turning the edges of the wheels, makes far less clatter than it used
> to. Now, I have reversed the polarity, making sure to reverse the
> wheels etc - (the models ran the opposite way to evrything else on the
> layout)  and the first motor is very happy with the
> arrangement.However, the second motor will not pick up current from
> the track. I have checked all the connections from wheels, pickups etc
> right thru to the brushes and it is all connected. When I place it on
> the track, nothing happens, but if I tickle the brush on the insulated
> side with a wire touching the appropriate track, it moves
> immediately.  I am not asking for anyone to diagnose without seeing
> it, but is there a common fault with these old motors that I should be
> aware of?
> 
> TIA
> 
> JD


Obviously there is no connection between the rail and the brush.
At this point you need a means of checking electrical continuity to find
the break. 
Before I owned a multimeter, I used a Faller house interior light unit
(2 wires, a holder and a 16v bulb) 
Before that I used a 6"* length of wire and watched for sparks. (* pre
NZ going metric)
One wire on the rail and the other to each point where the current is
carried by a new component.
That way you can find where the current flow stops.

The DMU bogie I have has a Paxolin plate on the underside with a rivet
which holds a wire wiper which springs against the back of the flanges.
From there, a wire is soldered inside the rivet and goes up through the
frame to the insulated brush. The brush sits in a slot in the insulated
holder rivetted to the motor frame and the hairpin spring has a piece of
insulated tubing over the wire. The pickup wire end (either a metal tube
or a kinked brass rectangle)
slips between the top of the brush bar and the insulated tube over the
hairpin spring.
Possible faults:
- the wire wiper is missing.
- the solder joint between wire and rivet has failed.
- you have the wire connector placed in such a way that there is no
electrical connection.

Some Tri-ang motor bogies used bent phosphor bronze wipers (flat strips)
riveted to the back of the paxolin plate rather than the rivet and wire.
These wore away with use, but it's not immediately obvious without
dismantling that the wiper, where it touched the wheel isn't actually
there.

Regards,
Greg.P.

<John wrote
>I am ressurecting a couple of old Triang dmus. One of them, after motor 
>stripping and servicing, is working very smoothly, and after turning the 
>edges of the wheels, makes far less clatter than it used
 to. Now, I have reversed the polarity, making sure to reverse the wheels 
etc - (the models ran the opposite way to evrything else on the layout)  and 
the first motor is very happy with the arrangement. However, the second 
motor will not pick up current from  the track. I have checked all the 
connections from wheels, pickups etc  right thru to the brushes and it is 
all connected. When I place it on the track, nothing happens, but if I 
tickle the brush on the insulated side with a wire touching the appropriate 
track, it moves immediately.

G'day,
To reverse the direction of travel you do not turn the wheels. You just 
reverse the wiring and change the Brush Insulation to the other side. If you 
reverse the wheels you would also have to reverse the Pick Up Plate.
Graeme Hearn

On May 29, 6:19 pm, "Graeme"  wrote:
> <John wrote>I am ressurecting a couple of old Triang dmus. One of them, after motor
> >stripping and servicing, is working very smoothly, and after turning the
> >edges of the wheels, makes far less clatter than it used
>
>  to. Now, I have reversed the polarity, making sure to reverse the wheels
> etc - (the models ran the opposite way to evrything else on the layout)  and
> the first motor is very happy with the arrangement. However, the second
> motor will not pick up current from  the track. I have checked all the
> connections from wheels, pickups etc  right thru to the brushes and it is
> all connected. When I place it on the track, nothing happens, but if I
> tickle the brush on the insulated side with a wire touching the appropriate
> track, it moves immediately.
>
> G'day,
> To reverse the direction of travel you do not turn the wheels. You just
> reverse the wiring and change the Brush Insulation to the other side. If you
> reverse the wheels you would also have to reverse the Pick Up Plate.
> Graeme Hearn

to reverse the direction of travel, would it not be quicker to turn
the magnet around?
David

chorleydnc@hotmail.com wrote:
> On May 29, 6:19 pm, "Graeme"  wrote:
>> <John wrote>I am ressurecting a couple of old Triang dmus. One of them, after motor
>>> stripping and servicing, is working very smoothly, and after turning the
>>> edges of the wheels, makes far less clatter than it used
>>  to. Now, I have reversed the polarity, making sure to reverse the wheels
>> etc - (the models ran the opposite way to evrything else on the layout)  and
>> the first motor is very happy with the arrangement. However, the second
>> motor will not pick up current from  the track. I have checked all the
>> connections from wheels, pickups etc  right thru to the brushes and it is
>> all connected. When I place it on the track, nothing happens, but if I
>> tickle the brush on the insulated side with a wire touching the appropriate
>> track, it moves immediately.
>>
>> G'day,
>> To reverse the direction of travel you do not turn the wheels. You just
>> reverse the wiring and change the Brush Insulation to the other side. If you
>> reverse the wheels you would also have to reverse the Pick Up Plate.
>> Graeme Hearn
> 
> to reverse the direction of travel, would it not be quicker to turn
> the magnet around?
> David


No. On the motors used in these old locos, you change the insulation by 
moving a plastic sleeve from one wire to another.

Also, removing the magnet weakens it, which increases current draw.

-- 
wolf k.

Wolf Kirchmeir wrote:

> 
> 
> No. On the motors used in these old locos, you change the insulation by 
> moving a plastic sleeve from one wire to another.

Only works with some Tri-ang locos as the whole chassis is live.
> 
> Also, removing the magnet weakens it, which increases current draw.
> 
Is this still true of modern magnets (post 1960)? Also a magnet can 
still be turned by using a steel spacer while turning it.

Kevin Martin

-- 
To Reply, delete what is "Not Required" in abbreviated form

Kevin Martin wrote:
> Wolf Kirchmeir wrote:
> 
>>
>>
>> No. On the motors used in these old locos, you change the insulation 
>> by moving a plastic sleeve from one wire to another.
> 
> Only works with some Tri-ang locos as the whole chassis is live.

True, and I forgot to mention that you also have to move the isolated 
pickup wire along with the plastic sleeve. The plastic sleeve isolates 
the V-shaped brush spring, which is connected to the chassis via the 
motor mounting bolt.

>> Also, removing the magnet weakens it, which increases current draw.
>>
> Is this still true of modern magnets (post 1960)? Also a magnet can 
> still be turned by using a steel spacer while turning it.

Don't know, but others have claimed that the new supermagnets aren't 
seriously affected by removing them from the motor. Yer takes yer 
chances... Use of steel spacer is a nice trick. May try it some time. ;-)

> Kevin Martin
> 


-- 
wolf k.

Am i right in thinking you mean the old 101 metro cammel unit. sorry if this 
is somthing you have already done but have you put wheels on right way,the 
wheel on one side is insulated from the axle by a plastic bush  this needs 
to go  on side that has the bronze wiper





                                                                             
         regards bill