My cheap "forged steel shaft" claw hammer decided to break yesterday
when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
"cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
"dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?

Regards

Keith

On Sep 4, 9:38 am, jontom_...@hotmail.com wrote:
> My cheap "forged steel shaft" claw hammer decided to break yesterday
> when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
> "cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
> "dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
> and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
> use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
> little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?
>
> Regards
>
> Keith

If you have the lead to make one then I can see 2 courses open to you,
1: make one and use it,
2: weight the lead in and use the money to buy one ;)
if you dont have the lead then its a moot point, you have to buy
something...

Dave

On 4 Sep, 11:47, dave sanderson 
wrote:
> On Sep 4, 9:38 am, jontom_...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> > My cheap "forged steel shaft" claw hammer decided to break yesterday
> > when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
> > "cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
> > "dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
> > and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
> > use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
> > little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?
>
> > Regards
>
> > Keith
>
> If you have the lead to make one then I can see 2 courses open to you,
> 1: make one and use it,
> 2: weight the lead in and use the money to buy one ;)
> if you dont have the lead then its a moot point, you have to buy
> something...
>
> Dave

Thanks Dave, I have the lead kicking about but I guess I was looking
to see if anyone was going to say how wonderful these plastic/lead
shot things are. I nearly bought one then saw on another forum that
some have cracked up quickly. I think I will empty a suitable tin or
two :-) as a mould and just get on and make one I know will work.

Regards

Keith

jontom_1uk@hotmail.com wrote:
> Thanks Dave, I have the lead kicking about but I guess I was looking
> to see if anyone was going to say how wonderful these plastic/lead
> shot things are. I nearly bought one then saw on another forum that
> some have cracked up quickly. I think I will empty a suitable tin or
> two :-) as a mould and just get on and make one I know will work.
> 
> Regards
> 
> Keith

There used to be a wondrous tool which had TWO handles,
and a combined ladle/mould.

When the lead head on handle 1 became
distorted beyond useablity, one placed
the hammer, head end down, in the ladle.

One placed handle two in the mould.

One applied heat, the lead melted,
and the ladle/mould was tipped so the
lead ran onto (and cooled around) handle 2,
and formed a nice new head.

Handle 1 is now free to repeat the process
when the new hammer is once more distorted
beyond useability.

    BugBear

On Fri, 5 Sep 2008 04:02:35 -0700 (PDT), jontom_1uk@hotmail.com wrote:

>On 4 Sep, 11:47, dave sanderson 
>wrote:
>> On Sep 4, 9:38=A0am, jontom_...@hotmail.com wrote:
>>
>> > My cheap "forged steel shaft" claw hammer decided to break yesterday
>> > when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
>> > "cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
>> > "dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
>> > and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
>> > use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
>> > little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?
>>
>> > Regards
>>
>> > Keith
>>
>> If you have the lead to make one then I can see 2 courses open to you,
>> 1: make one and use it,
>> 2: weight the lead in and use the money to buy one ;)
>> if you dont have the lead then its a moot point, you have to buy
>> something...
>>
>> Dave
>
>Thanks Dave, I have the lead kicking about but I guess I was looking
>to see if anyone was going to say how wonderful these plastic/lead
>shot things are. I nearly bought one then saw on another forum that
>some have cracked up quickly. I think I will empty a suitable tin or
>two :-) as a mould and just get on and make one I know will work.
>
>Regards
>
>Keith
Greetings Keith,
I have and use several dead blow hammers. They are different sizes
which is why I have more than one. And boy are they nice. Much better
than lead hammers for most uses. It's weird to whack something hard
and not have the hammer rebound. One of the nicest uses is tapping
parts down in a vise. When the part bottoms out against the vise
bottom or against parallels it doesn't bounce back a tiny amount the
way a part can when using a lead hammer.
Cheers,
Eric

On 6 Sep, 06:55, e...@whidbey.com wrote:
> On Fri, 5 Sep 2008 04:02:35 -0700 (PDT), jontom_...@hotmail.com wrote:
> >On 4 Sep, 11:47, dave sanderson 
> >wrote:
> >> On Sep 4, 9:38=A0am, jontom_...@hotmail.com wrote:
>
> >> > My cheap "forged steel shaft" claw hammer decided to break yesterday
> >> > when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
> >> > "cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
> >> > "dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
> >> > and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
> >> > use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
> >> > little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?
>
> >> > Regards
>
> >> > Keith
>
> >> If you have the lead to make one then I can see 2 courses open to you,
> >> 1: make one and use it,
> >> 2: weight the lead in and use the money to buy one ;)
> >> if you dont have the lead then its a moot point, you have to buy
> >> something...
>
> >> Dave
>
> >Thanks Dave, I have the lead kicking about but I guess I was looking
> >to see if anyone was going to say how wonderful these plastic/lead
> >shot things are. I nearly bought one then saw on another forum that
> >some have cracked up quickly. I think I will empty a suitable tin or
> >two :-) as a mould and just get on and make one I know will work.
>
> >Regards
>
> >Keith
>
> Greetings Keith,
> I have and use several dead blow hammers. They are different sizes
> which is why I have more than one. And boy are they nice. Much better
> than lead hammers for most uses. It's weird to whack something hard
> and not have the hammer rebound. One of the nicest uses is tapping
> parts down in a vise. When the part bottoms out against the vise
> bottom or against parallels it doesn't bounce back a tiny amount the
> way a part can when using a lead hammer.
> Cheers,
> Eric- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Eric Hi,

Thanks for your comment it is just the personal experience I was
hoping for and exactly the use I envisaged. I hate thumping a rough
casting with my nice new Thor hideface to settle it in the vice as it
tears up the soft face quicker than anything and I haven’t found a
local source for new hide inserts. I was not looking forward to having
to re-cast the lead hammer frequently either. I’ll “break out” the
piggy bank and invest in some “new” technology whilst avoiding the
inevitable “discussion” that follows heating lead in her domestic
area.

Thanks again Eric, best regards

Keith

On 5 Sep, 16:24, bugbear <bugbear@trim_papermule.co.uk_trim> wrote:
> jontom_...@hotmail.com wrote:
> > Thanks Dave, I have the lead kicking about but I guess I was looking
> > to see if anyone was going to say how wonderful these plastic/lead
> > shot things are. I nearly bought one then saw on another forum that
> > some have cracked up quickly. I think I will empty a suitable tin or
> > two :-) as a mould and just get on and make one I know will work.
>
> > Regards
>
> > Keith
>
> There used to be a wondrous tool which had TWO handles,
> and a combined ladle/mould.
>
> When the lead head on handle 1 became
> distorted beyond useablity, one placed
> the hammer, head end down, in the ladle.
>
> One placed handle two in the mould.
>
> One applied heat, the lead melted,
> and the ladle/mould was tipped so the
> lead ran onto (and cooled around) handle 2,
> and formed a nice new head.
>
> Handle 1 is now free to repeat the process
> when the new hammer is once more distorted
> beyond useability.
>
>     BugBear


Bugbear Hi,

Thanks for that, I thought I had been “about a bit” but I have to
admit I have never seen such a beast although it sounds an intriguing
and very practical idea. Very “green” these days as well being a
recyclable tool. But oh, what would the H&S police make of us melting
lead? I feel at least 20 “risk assessments” and “certification
opportunities” coming on. :-)

Best regards

Keith (still learning thankfully)

In article 
, 
jontom_1uk@hotmail.com writes
>My cheap "forged steel shaft" claw hammer decided to break yesterday
>when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
>"cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
>"dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
>and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
>use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
>little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?
>
Keith,

I have a Thor dead blow hammer, used it for many years. The rubber side 
is just perfect for assembling/disassembling veneered chipboard items 
and the like; the plastic side is more useful to give a really hard 
knock when surface damage is not important, or won't happen. Whether the 
dead blow feature is helpful is harder to judge, it may work pretty much 
the same if it were solid, but it certainly doesn't bounce around much, 
if at all.

David
-- 
David Littlewood

In article 
, 
jontom_1uk@hotmail.com writes
>>
>> Greetings Keith,
>> I have and use several dead blow hammers. They are different sizes
>> which is why I have more than one. And boy are they nice. Much better
>> than lead hammers for most uses. It's weird to whack something hard
>> and not have the hammer rebound. One of the nicest uses is tapping
>> parts down in a vise. When the part bottoms out against the vise
>> bottom or against parallels it doesn't bounce back a tiny amount the
>> way a part can when using a lead hammer.
>> Cheers,
>> Eric- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>
>Eric Hi,
>
>Thanks for your comment it is just the personal experience I was
>hoping for and exactly the use I envisaged. I hate thumping a rough
>casting with my nice new Thor hideface to settle it in the vice as it
>tears up the soft face quicker than anything and I haven’t found a
>local source for new hide inserts. I was not looking forward to having
>to re-cast the lead hammer frequently either. I’ll “break out” the
>piggy bank and invest in some “new” technology whilst avoiding the
>inevitable “discussion” that follows heating lead in her domestic
>area.
>
>Thanks again Eric, best regards
>
Keith,

You could always use the copper face for this - my non-dead-blow hammers 
have 1 hide face and 1 copper, don't know what yours have got.

David
-- 
David Littlewood

On Sat, 6 Sep 2008 01:55:00 -0700 (PDT), jontom_1uk@hotmail.com wrote:

>Bugbear Hi,
>
>Thanks for that, I thought I had been “about a bit” but I have to
>admit I have never seen such a beast although it sounds an intriguing
>and very practical idea. Very “green” these days as well being a
>recyclable tool. But oh, what would the H&S police make of us melting
>lead? I feel at least 20 “risk assessments” and “certification
>opportunities” coming on. :-)

...also major opportunitues for the use of a dead blow hammer...

Regards,
Tony

On 5 Sep, 16:31, David Littlewood  wrote:
> In article
> ,
> jontom_...@hotmail.com writes>My cheap "forged steel shaft" claw hammer decided to break yesterday
> >when trying to remove a smallish :-) nail. It left me with a
> >"cushioned grip" handle which I thought I might use to make a lead
> >"dead blow" hammer. Is it worthwhile these days or do those plastic
> >and lead shot things you can get for tuppence work better. I currently
> >use a Thor Copper/Hide mallet but often could do with something a
> >little heavier. So worth the effort to make or just dig in the pocket?
>
> Keith,
>
> I have a Thor dead blow hammer, used it for many years. The rubber side
> is just perfect for assembling/disassembling veneered chipboard items
> and the like; the plastic side is more useful to give a really hard
> knock when surface damage is not important, or won't happen. Whether the
> dead blow feature is helpful is harder to judge, it may work pretty much
> the same if it were solid, but it certainly doesn't bounce around much,
> if at all.
>
> David
> --
> David Littlewood


David Hi,

Thanks for your comment, extremely useful to me. The rubber/plastic
dead blow seems to be just the thing as some of the "rough" castings I
mentioned are non-ferrous and while the copper end of the normal hide
face is a little hard particularly as it work hardens after a little
use, the hide face is too easily damaged and tends to "pick up"
metalic bits which then mark the surface. Does the rubber face tend to
cut up at all or pick up swarf etc? I'm also taken by the ability to
clout veneered chipboard without causing damage, if it can handle that
I guess it could also handle varnished softwood, ply or soft aluminium
sheet. At the moment I use some small plastic faced hammers but tend
to change the inserts often as if marked they will damage a soft
surface even with a very light tap. I'll have a look out for a Thor
"dead blow" and give it a go. I will of course promise myself to keep
it specifically for the softer work but I wonder how long that will
last as it seems it could do at least two jobs for me :-)

Thanks again

Keith

On 6 Sep, 22:06, Tony Jeffree  wrote:
> On Sat, 6 Sep 2008 01:55:00 -0700 (PDT), jontom_...@hotmail.com wrote:
> >Bugbear Hi,
>
> >Thanks for that, I thought I had been “about a bit” but I have to
> >admit I have never seen such a beast although it sounds an intriguing
> >and very practical idea. Very “green” these days as well being a
> >recyclable tool. But oh, what would the H&S police make of us melting
> >lead? I feel at least 20 “risk assessments” and “certification
> >opportunities” coming on. :-)
>
> ...also major opportunitues for the use of a dead blow hammer...
>
> Regards,
> Tony

An excellent idea Tony but I've just bought a 7Kg sledge for such
purpose. I've also noticed that unless you catch them when they are
not looking the b*ggers won't stand still while you hit them. :-)

Keith (not me gov I didn't do it)

In article 
, 
jontom_1uk@hotmail.com writes
>
>David Hi,
>
>Thanks for your comment, extremely useful to me. The rubber/plastic
>dead blow seems to be just the thing as some of the "rough" castings I
>mentioned are non-ferrous and while the copper end of the normal hide
>face is a little hard particularly as it work hardens after a little
>use, the hide face is too easily damaged and tends to "pick up"
>metalic bits which then mark the surface. Does the rubber face tend to
>cut up at all or pick up swarf etc? I'm also taken by the ability to
>clout veneered chipboard without causing damage, if it can handle that
>I guess it could also handle varnished softwood, ply or soft aluminium
>sheet. At the moment I use some small plastic faced hammers but tend
>to change the inserts often as if marked they will damage a soft
>surface even with a very light tap. I'll have a look out for a Thor
>"dead blow" and give it a go. I will of course promise myself to keep
>it specifically for the softer work but I wonder how long that will
>last as it seems it could do at least two jobs for me :-)
>
Keith,

I've had mine for about 25 years and it's still on the original faces. 
That is largely because I have only used it on wood or plastics. It 
would handle castings just fine, but I don't imagine it would last quite 
so long! So, I can't answer your question about the rubber face picking 
up swarf, but my best guess is that it would pick up as you suspect.

David
-- 
David Littlewood

On 7 Sep, 16:25, David Littlewood  wrote:
> In article
> ,
> jontom_...@hotmail.com writes
>
>
>
>
>
> >David Hi,
>
> >Thanks for your comment, extremely useful to me. The rubber/plastic
> >dead blow seems to be just the thing as some of the "rough" castings I
> >mentioned are non-ferrous and while the copper end of the normal hide
> >face is a little hard particularly as it work hardens after a little
> >use, the hide face is too easily damaged and tends to "pick up"
> >metalic bits which then mark the surface. Does the rubber face tend to
> >cut up at all or pick up swarf etc? I'm also taken by the ability to
> >clout veneered chipboard without causing damage, if it can handle that
> >I guess it could also handle varnished softwood, ply or soft aluminium
> >sheet. At the moment I use some small plastic faced hammers but tend
> >to change the inserts often as if marked they will damage a soft
> >surface even with a very light tap. I'll have a look out for a Thor
> >"dead blow" and give it a go. I will of course promise myself to keep
> >it specifically for the softer work but I wonder how long that will
> >last as it seems it could do at least two jobs for me :-)
>
> Keith,
>
> I've had mine for about 25 years and it's still on the original faces.
> That is largely because I have only used it on wood or plastics. It
> would handle castings just fine, but I don't imagine it would last quite
> so long! So, I can't answer your question about the rubber face picking
> up swarf, but my best guess is that it would pick up as you suspect.
>
> David
> --
> David Littlewood- Hide quoted text -
>
> - Show quoted text -


Thanks David, as soon as I can get out to find one I will make the
investment.

Regards

Keith

In article 
, 
jontom_1uk@hotmail.com writes
>On 7 Sep, 16:25, David Littlewood  wrote:
>> In article
>> ,
>> jontom_...@hotmail.com writes
>>
>>
>> I've had mine for about 25 years and it's still on the original faces.
>> That is largely because I have only used it on wood or plastics. It
>> would handle castings just fine, but I don't imagine it would last quite
>> so long! So, I can't answer your question about the rubber face picking
>> up swarf, but my best guess is that it would pick up as you suspect.
>>
>> David
>> --
>> David Littlewood- Hide quoted text -
>>
>> - Show quoted text -
>
>
>Thanks David, as soon as I can get out to find one I will make the
>investment.
>
Good luck, Keith; I can't even get into my workshop at present!

David
-- 
David Littlewood

bugbear wrote:
> 
> There used to be a wondrous tool which had TWO handles,
> and a combined ladle/mould.

Herewith:

http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f234/bugbear33/?action=view¤t=lead_hammer.jpg

    BugBear

On 9 Sep, 12:30, bugbear <bugbear@trim_papermule.co.uk_trim> wrote:
> bugbear wrote:
>
> > There used to be a wondrous tool which had TWO handles,
> > and a combined ladle/mould.
>
> Herewith:
>
> http://s48.photobucket.com/albums/f234/bugbear33/?action=view¤t...
>
>     BugBear


Thanks for that BugBear, what a fascinating tool. Looks as if they
expected it to cast plenty of hammers too as they listed handles by
the dozen. Lead must have been much cheaper in those days. That
similar mould for “vice jaws” also looks useful. I currently keep a
roll of old lead flashing to fold over my vice if necessary but that
looks as if it would produce much thicker jaws. My only concern would
be that the two halves of the mould fitted together well, I wouldn’t
want nice warm lead running down my shirt sleeve.

On that point it is interesting to see how times have changed, no H&S
dire warnings, no disclaimer to avoid responsibility and no safety
gloves either, but of course just the right amount of shirt cuff is
exposed – one has to be dressed correctly. The prices look very
reasonable by today’s standards as well.

Thanks for posting it as it has saved me from an embarrassing (not to
say dangerous) moment, I had not thought of plugging the hollow handle
until I read the instructions. At least now my hammer will be better
balanced than it might have been. :-)

Best regards

Keith

On Tue, 9 Sep 2008 06:31:22 -0700 (PDT), jontom_1uk@hotmail.com wrote:

>I wouldn’t
>want nice warm lead running down my shirt sleeve.

     Many years ago I was on a plumbing and brickwork course, we wore
wellies for the brickwork, and then went on to plumbing.... wiping old-
fashioned lead joints, with moleskin cloths.  Somebody accidentally poured
a small slug of hot lead down his welly.....and we laughed - at first.

  I still shudder when I think of that afternoon.

--

Chris Edwards (in deepest Dorset)      "....there *must* be an easier way!"

On or around Tue, 09 Sep 2008 22:29:07 +0100, Chris Edwards
 enlightened us thusly:

>On Tue, 9 Sep 2008 06:31:22 -0700 (PDT), jontom_1uk@hotmail.com wrote:
>
>>I wouldn’t
>>want nice warm lead running down my shirt sleeve.
>
>     Many years ago I was on a plumbing and brickwork course, we wore
>wellies for the brickwork, and then went on to plumbing.... wiping old-
>fashioned lead joints, with moleskin cloths.  Somebody accidentally poured
>a small slug of hot lead down his welly.....and we laughed - at first.
>
>  I still shudder when I think of that afternoon.

I doubt the unfortunate victim did.  I've had weld spatter do that and it's
not pleasant, and that's only tiny bits.
-- 
Austin Shackles.  www.ddol-las.net  my opinions are just that
Travel The Galaxy!  Meet Fascinating Life Forms...
------------------------------------------------\   
   >>  http://www.schlockmercenary.com/  <<      \  ...and Kill them.
a webcartoon by Howard Tayler; I like it, maybe you will too!

>>>>>
On that point it is interesting to see how times have changed, no H&S
dire warnings, no disclaimer to avoid responsibility and no safety
gloves either, but of course just the right amount of shirt cuff is
exposed – one has to be dressed correctly
>>>>>>>

I got a book yesterday called Henleys Twentieth Century Formulas
Processes and Trade Secrets - 1945 edition that lists all sorts of
formulas to make from poison,hair conditioner ,drinks to metal patinas
using things like Hydrofluoric acid,Hydrogen Sulfide, Mercury bi-
chloride, silver cyanide to name but a few of the "exciting"
ingredients. My personal favorite in the pyrotechnics section is the
formula to make Woods metal for the trick they quaintly call "To take
Boiling Lead in the mouth" !!! There are only warnings for the most
poisonous chemicals - I guess the liquid woods metal in the mouth is
innocuous compared to some of the others!

Tim