Hi All,

I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs.  The
slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level.  I'm building
a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.   I'm using a
metal base supplied with the greenhouse.  With this amount of fall is
it OK to bolt the base directly to the slabs, or should I try and level
it up (if so using what?)?   The greenhouse is in a sheltered site, so
it won't have to content with very high winds.


I'd appreciate any advice.




-- 
tjr

"tjr"  wrote in message 
news:tjr.35b81c6@gardenbanter.co.uk...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs.  The
> slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level.  I'm building
> a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
> level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.  >
> I'd appreciate any advice.
>

I would not worry about so little fall.

Mike

"Muddymike"  wrote in message 
news:F8-dnXW5T5AxTXjVnZ2dnUVZ8jidnZ2d@brightview.com...
>
> "tjr"  wrote in message 
> news:tjr.35b81c6@gardenbanter.co.uk...
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs.  The
>> slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level.  I'm building
>> a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
>> level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.  >
>> I'd appreciate any advice.
>>
>
> I would not worry about so little fall.
>
> Mike
>
except that verticals will not be vertical and from a distance the lean will 
be noticeable if there are other true verticals in line of sight. Drive me 
mad that would.

Mike

"Muddymike"  wrote in message 
news:F8-dnXW5T5AxTXjVnZ2dnUVZ8jidnZ2d@brightview.com...
>
> "tjr"  wrote in message 
> news:tjr.35b81c6@gardenbanter.co.uk...
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs.  The
>> slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level.  I'm building
>> a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
>> level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.  >
>> I'd appreciate any advice.
>>
>
> I would not worry about so little fall.
>

You will have no end of troubles if you do not ensure that the metal base is 
horizontal.
I would suggest that you lay it first on your slabs and pack it up at the 
low point.
You can then mortar the increasing gap across the base and along one side.
Alternatively you could relay the slabs level.

Regards
Pete
www.thecanalshop.com

"Muddymike"  wrote in message
news:F8-dnXW5T5AxTXjVnZ2dnUVZ8jidnZ2d@brightview.com...
>
> "tjr"  wrote in message 
> news:tjr.35b81c6@gardenbanter.co.uk...
>>
>> Hi All,
>>
>> I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs.  The
>> slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level.  I'm building
>> a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
>> level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.  >
>> I'd appreciate any advice.
>>
>
> I would not worry about so little fall.
>

You will have no end of troubles if you do not ensure that the metal base is
horizontal.
I would suggest that you lay it first on your slabs and pack it up at the
low point.
You can then mortar the increasing gap across the base and along one side.
Alternatively you could relay the slabs level.

Regards
Pete
www.thecanalshop.com



>
>

tjr;817974 Wrote: 
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs.  The
> slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level.  I'm building
> a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
> level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.   I'm using a
> metal base supplied with the greenhouse.  With this amount of fall is
> it OK to bolt the base directly to the slabs, or should I try and level
> it up (if so using what?)?   The greenhouse is in a sheltered site, so
> it won't have to content with very high winds.
> 
> 
> I'd appreciate any advice.

I love people who mix feet and millimeters :-)

Probably won't matter too much if it's polycarbonate glazed but with
glass it is a bit of a strain on the structure which eventually will
shorten it's life, but you don't really need to worry. You can easily
level it using drymix under the low side, put it in position, level
using a couple of bits of tile or something, then push drymix into the
gap and leave to set. (or you could rip the slabs up and relay them :-(
)




-- 
Granity

"Granity"  wrote in message 
news:Granity.35bd626@gardenbanter.co.uk...
>
>
> I love people who mix feet and millimeters :-)
>
> Probably won't matter too much if it's polycarbonate glazed but with
> glass it is a bit of a strain on the structure which eventually will
> shorten it's life, but you don't really need to worry. You can easily
> level it using drymix under the low side, put it in position, level
> using a couple of bits of tile or something, then push drymix into the
> gap and leave to set. (or you could rip the slabs up and relay them :-(
> )
> -- 
> Granity



And where are you that it is already afternoon ?

Regards
Pete

"tjr"  wrote in message 
news:tjr.35b81c6@gardenbanter.co.uk...
>
> Hi All,
>
> I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs.  The
> slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level.  I'm building
> a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
> level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.   I'm using a
> metal base supplied with the greenhouse.  With this amount of fall is
> it OK to bolt the base directly to the slabs, or should I try and level
> it up (if so using what?)?   The greenhouse is in a sheltered site, so
> it won't have to content with very high winds.
>
>
> I'd appreciate any advice.

If it's sheltered from strong winds I wouldn't even bother bolting it down, 
when it's glazed it's not going to go anywhere. As for the fall, so little 
is not going to be a problem unless it's in the direction that means the 
rain will come off in the most inconvenient place, ie where you can't site a 
water butt. But the bottom sections of many greenhouses are shaped with a 
lip rather than being flat, this means that you can screw it to timber, I 
would use as heavy as possible, and this also gives you the opportunity to 
adjust the fall.

Steve

Update:  My greenhouse is now complete.  It was definitely worth the
extra time to level up and secure the base as it feels very solid. 
Thanks to all for the advice.

Pete - It's a Halls Supreme.  My choice was heavily influenced by my
wife who liked the curved roof panels.  As it had to be situated in a
fairly prominent position in our garden I wouldn't have been allowed
anything she considered ugly!

Construction was simple enough, though a few of the instructions were a
bit vague!  Halls - if you're reading this some better quality photos
would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because I've
had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of
forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've got
long arms!).  There are a few leaks but I'm sure I can sort them over
time with some silicone sealant. 

Too bad its autumn, and I've got to wait for the next season to start
using it - unless anyone has some good ideas about what to grow over
the winter.




-- 
tjr

tjr;818426 Wrote: 
> Update:  My greenhouse is now complete.  It was definitely worth the
> extra time to level up and secure the base as it feels very solid. 
> Thanks to all for the advice.
> 
> Pete - It's a Halls Supreme.  My choice was heavily influenced by my
> wife who liked the curved roof panels.  As it had to be situated in a
> fairly prominent position in our garden I wouldn't have been allowed
> anything she considered ugly!
> 

LOL I'm about to take delivery of an 8x10 Halls Magnum, nothing solid
to put it on so it'll be dig a shallow trench put down some drymix
concrete and bed the base on it. Trouble is I've got emphysema and can
only dig about 4 or 5 spadefulls at a time before having to get my
breath back, it's going to take several days to get the base down
methinks. :-(




-- 
Granity

"Granity"  wrote in message 
news:Granity.363bf27@gardenbanter.co.uk...
>
>>
> LOL I'm about to take delivery of an 8x10 Halls Magnum, nothing solid
> to put it on so it'll be dig a shallow trench put down some drymix
> concrete and bed the base on it. Trouble is I've got emphysema and can
> only dig about 4 or 5 spadefulls at a time before having to get my
> breath back, it's going to take several days to get the base down
> methinks. :-(
> -- 
> Granity


I used "Barrowmix" (wet) and found it just fine.
As well as the base foundation -  you could consider using it for a central 
pathway.
More digging I am afraid !
Sounds like you could do with a little help from a friend or go mechanical 
!!

Regards
Pete
www.thecanalshop.com

Pete Stockdale;818473 Wrote: 
> 
> 
> I used "Barrowmix" (wet) and found it just fine.
> As well as the base foundation -  you could consider using it for a
> central 
> pathway.
> More digging I am afraid !
> Sounds like you could do with a little help from a friend or go
> mechanical 
> !!
> 
> Regards
> Pete
> www.thecanalshop.com

Wickes have stuff called "slabcrete" for patio laying lay it dry wet it
then lay the slabs I've used it before with success so probably use it
fir this, and for the path inside using 600mm slabs.

Hopefully my son will appear to help if not then it will just take
time.




-- 
Granity

In article , Granity 
 writes

>LOL I'm about to take delivery of an 8x10 Halls Magnum, nothing solid
>to put it on so it'll be dig a shallow trench put down some drymix
>concrete and bed the base on it. Trouble is I've got emphysema and can
>only dig about 4 or 5 spadefulls at a time before having to get my
>breath back, it's going to take several days to get the base down
>methinks. :-(
>


We've just got a 8 x 14 Rhino greenhouse. Wonderful!! It came with 8 
vents with automatic openers and two side louvres. Paid extra for blinds 
on one side of the roof (greenhouse now turned to north south axis). 
It's feels much, much bigger than the old one because of course the 
sides are straight rather than the leaning ones of the cedar Alton.
I took the old Alton down, though it took a bit of huffing and puffing 
and pure grit at one point to get the glass out as the thing was so 
swaybacked it's a wonder it didn't fall down before I dismantled it!"

I won't put anything in it even low staging yet until i have dug out 
wither side and put down weed suppressant matting and then shingle. Bit 
tricky once the staging is in!.

Ended up trailing the pole with the electric wire inside, under the 
greenhouse frame in a channel and so I'll have to have a think about the 
way i am going to fix it to aboard inside.

It also came with guttering and hose pipe connections at each corner so 
i can fix a huge tank to the short end .

It'll never look so good as it does now of course - all shiny and new:)

-- 
Janet Tweedy
Dalmatian Telegraph
http://www.lancedal.demon.co.uk

tjr wrote:
> would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because I've
> had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of
> forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've got
> long arms!). 
> 
Exactly how did you do this. I'm going to have to do this, again a 
Halls, and the back is going to be against a 6' fence.

Thanks.

Granity;818483 Wrote: 
> Wickes have stuff called "slabcrete" for patio laying lay it dry wet it
> then lay the slabs I've used it before with success so probably use it
> fir this, and for the path inside using 600mm slabs.
> 
> Hopefully my son will appear to help if not then it will just take
> time.

For "slabcrete" read slablayer, put it down dry, water it and lay the
slabs.




-- 
Granity

"Ian Prideaux"  wrote in message 
news:gcnr0i$crk$1@aioe.org...
> tjr wrote:
>> would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because I've
>> had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of
>> forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've got
>> long arms!).
> Exactly how did you do this. I'm going to have to do this, again a Halls, 
> and the back is going to be against a 6' fence.
>
> Thanks.

If it is hard against a 6' fence, just as ours is, don't glaze, panel with 
ply from the inside :-)

Mike

Ian Prideaux;818553 Wrote: 
> tjr wrote:-
> would help. Glazing the back and one side was a challenge because
> I've
> had to situate it very close to a shed/fence, but with a bit of
> forethought it was possible to glaze it from within (good job I've
> got
> long arms!). 
> -
> Exactly how did you do this. I'm going to have to do this, again a 
> Halls, and the back is going to be against a 6' fence.
> 
> Thanks.

You just need to plan ahead.  I started with the back which was against
the fence (about 6 inches away).  From inside the frame it was possible
to lift the glass through the centre and carefully move it into
position. The clips can be inserted by reaching through from either
side. I continued with the middle section. Here I was a bit harder to
get the clips onto the far side but my arms are long enough to reach
through (still inside the frame) and across the 2 feet wide panel.  
The final panels on the back could be reached from the outside.  Next I
glazed the side near the shed with a similar procedure.  To glaze the
roof the panels can be lifted through from inside and into position. I
had a step ladder inside the frame so I could stand up an insert the
clips from above.  

I managed the whole job by myself, but if you have an extra pair of
hands to help you it would be a lot easier, as they can hold the glass
in place whilst you get the clips in.  

The main drawback of this approach is that it will be very difficult to
replace a broken pane.  If one ever breaks at the back I'd have to
remove other panels to get to the broken one.  It's in a very sheltered
position so the main risk will be if I break it from inside!




-- 
tjr

Granity;818453 Wrote: 
>  I'm about to take delivery of an 8x10 Halls Magnum, 

I was rang last Friday and told it would be delivered today (Tuesday) I
asked what sort of time it was likely to be arriving, 0800 they said. At
five to eight this morning a lorry barged it's way up the track removing
the lower branches of a tree (that'll teach the guy to trim it he's been
asked to often enough) .............................................Any
one good at jigsaws? :-)




-- 
Granity

In article , 
tjr.35b81c6@gardenbanter.co.uk says...
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs.  The
> slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level.  I'm building
> a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
> level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.   I'm using a
> metal base supplied with the greenhouse.  With this amount of fall is
> it OK to bolt the base directly to the slabs, or should I try and level
> it up (if so using what?)?   The greenhouse is in a sheltered site, so
> it won't have to content with very high winds.
> 
> 
> I'd appreciate any advice.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
It does not sound a lot but remember the glass will be right angled and 
you will have the devils own job glazing it if you do not level it, but 
there is no need to moveve the slabs just pack under the frame base till 
level then use morter
-- 
Charlie Pridham, Gardening in Cornwall
www.roselandhouse.co.uk 
Holders of national collections of Clematis viticella cultivars and 
Lapageria rosea

I'm about to build a greenhouse on some existing paving slabs.  The
 slabs are very firmly laid, but are not perfectly level.  I'm building
 a 4' x 6' greenhouse and along the 6' length the slabs are virtually
 level, but along the 4' length it drops by about 15mm.   
  

[/QUOTE Wrote: 
> 
> 
> You were lucky. Having struggled for 2 days to remove the old G/H and
> put the base together for the 8x10 we laid it on the ground and got the
> spirit level out :-( 
> 
> With the back left corner on the ground the front right is 7" high, the
> front left 5" high and the back right 2" high. 
> 
> This leaves me with a serious problem, if I dig out the back by 7" it
> means the gravel (the area is membraned with 2" of gravel on top) will
> be above the bottom of the glass. If I compromise say dig out 3" and
> thin down the gravel it still leaves a step at the door of about 9"
> which is silly and impossible to get a wheel barrow inside easily ( the
> base unit is 5" high)  
> 
> Seems like a lot of landscaping is needed to level the whole area. :-(
> :-(




-- 
Granity