Bought a cheap car alarm siren. Seller says it is Cyclone brand but no labels 
to that effect. 

Wires: red (+), black (-), and 3 wires with a molex connector: blue, yellow, 
green. 

Grounding the blue wire triggers a series of alarm tones that sound as long 
as the blue wire is grounded. 

I'm trying to find out what functions the other 2 wires trigger. 

Ideas?

Thanks,
-- 
DaveC
me@bogusdomain.net
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DaveC wrote:
> Bought a cheap car alarm siren. Seller says it is Cyclone brand but no labels 
> to that effect. 
> 
> Wires: red (+), black (-), and 3 wires with a molex connector: blue, yellow, 
> green. 
> 
> Grounding the blue wire triggers a series of alarm tones that sound as long 
> as the blue wire is grounded. 
> 
> I'm trying to find out what functions the other 2 wires trigger. 
> 
> Ideas?
> 
> Thanks,


 From what I was able to glean from a quick Google search, I believe the 
green and yellow leads have to do with the engine immobilizer.
http://www.freymoto.com/media/Sample%20Pro-Install%20Guide.pdf

>  From what I was able to glean from a quick Google search, I believe the 
> green and yellow leads have to do with the engine immobilizer.
> http://www.freymoto.com/media/Sample%20Pro-Install%20Guide.pdf

Thanks for the reply, Frank.

That one is a bit more sophisticated than what I have. Mine is a siren only, 
no "brain". Or the brain (such as it is) is included in the siren. Just 3 
wires coming out of the siren (other than power -- red and black). These 3 
other wires are blue, green, black (yes, 2 black wires).

Anyone seen these? I'll post a photo later. 

Thanks,
-- 
DaveC
me@bogusdomain.net
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Please reply in the news group

A very common type of low-cost (but effective) alarm appears to be an alarm 
only.  But there is a brain and it work on a very sinple princliple.

You hook it up to your battery only.  When you engage the alarm (they 
usually come with two remotes) it senses ANY voltage decrease, and that 
causes the alarm to sound.  Again, it is ingenious because if someone were 
to break into your car, although the breaking of the window would not set 
off the alarm, they would invariably open the door, causing the dome light 
to turn on.  This slight decrease in voltage because of the dome light 
coming on is what causes the alarm to sound.

Although it has nothing to do with the ignition and anything that would 
prevent the car from starting (being hot-wired), the siren is VERY loud and 
might very well be enough to scare any would-be thief away.

Realisitic blinking red-lights cab be bought from radio shack for about $6. 
Properly inslalled, they can look VERY convincing.  Also, a trip to your 
local car audio shop can often get you (for free) some stickers from major 
alarm companies (Code-Alarm, Viper, etc.) that they may have just laying 
around from previous jobs.

In any case, I have learned in my 25 years I have been into car audio (I am 
41) that DETERANCE is everything.  I have had my car broken into perhaps 9 
times in my life (because I have always had large, expensive systems), but I 
can HONESTLY say I have never had a car invaded where there was simply a 
blinking red light.  Thiefs are lazy.  Why chance trouble when there are so 
many other fish in the sea.  A blinking red light I KNOW has saved countless 
break-in attempts.

Take this advice to heart.  I have worked in this industry and even spoken 
to ex-thiefs (well, they say they are ex-theifs).  I mean, even if you have 
an ignition kill system or a simple voltage drop alarm, once your window is 
broken, there's an expense right there, whether they get your car or system. 
No, you want to prevent them from even breaking that first window.  When I 
was in my 20's (and more influenced by sales people and had just had my 
entire $2000 system stolen) I spent $400 on a sophisticated CodeAlarm system 
(a car I sold with alarm 2 years later).

20 years wiser I have learned that perhaps simply the red light was all that 
was needed.

Keep in mind, if you do go the fake red light approach, it HAS to look real 
and professionaly installed.  Thiefs can easily spot a fake.  But done 
right, you can save hundreds of dollars vs. a real alarm.

My $.02,

MOSFET


"DaveC"  wrote in message 
news:0001HW.C5878B4D0076FBD8B01AD9AF@news.sf.sbcglobal.net...
>>  From what I was able to glean from a quick Google search, I believe the
>> green and yellow leads have to do with the engine immobilizer.
>> http://www.freymoto.com/media/Sample%20Pro-Install%20Guide.pdf
>
> Thanks for the reply, Frank.
>
> That one is a bit more sophisticated than what I have. Mine is a siren 
> only,
> no "brain". Or the brain (such as it is) is included in the siren. Just 3
> wires coming out of the siren (other than power -- red and black). These 3
> other wires are blue, green, black (yes, 2 black wires).
>
> Anyone seen these? I'll post a photo later.
>
> Thanks,
> -- 
> DaveC
> me@bogusdomain.net
> This is an invalid return address
> Please reply in the news group
>