OK after my last post about the 'gift' of loads of fish I have returned them 
to the shop or a colleague is looking after them in his quarantine tank for 
me.

The trouble is my tank now has white spot.  I bought some ws3 king british 
treatment and I was wondering what I should do about filtration while 
treating.  Obviously I should not have carbon in the filter but what about a 
normal white filter?  I have been told to keep filtering and remove the 
filter media depending who I talk to.  SO what is it?  White filter or just 
the sponge?  Its a Fluval 3+ if that makes any difference.

Cheers

Chris

p.s. Follow-Ups set to uk.rec.aquaria.misc

> OK after my last post about the 'gift' of loads of fish I have returned 
> them to the shop or a colleague is looking after them in his quarantine 
> tank for me.
>
> The trouble is my tank now has white spot.  I bought some ws3 king british 
> treatment and I was wondering what I should do about filtration while 
> treating.  Obviously I should not have carbon in the filter but what about 
> a normal white filter?  I have been told to keep filtering and remove the 
> filter media depending who I talk to.  SO what is it?  White filter or 
> just the sponge?  Its a Fluval 3+ if that makes any difference.

White spot is usually a sign of stress as much as anything else so treat it 
as a warning & keep an eye on the remaining fish & keep changing the water 
to manage the Ammonia/Nitrite levels.

As for treatment, theeee very best stuff is Waterlife's Protazin. There is 
no reason to ever lose a fish to Whitespot if you have some of that to hand.

As you say just remove the carbon & any other absorbtive media before 
applying. You need to leave all the basic filter media in tact.

The tricky part will be medicating the tank whilst still changing water to 
deal with your Ammonia/Nitrite.

Suggest you start out with a big water change (maybe 50%) to get the levels 
right down & then treat with Protazin. You just need a 3-4 day window where 
ideally you wouldn't change any water. If you have to change water to manage 
the levels then you'll need to work out how much additional medication you 
need to put back in afterward to maintain the levels of that to kill the 
Ich.

It should be do-able with some basic maths!

Good luck,

I.

"Altum"  wrote in message 
news:43EA8E17.40301@mad.scientist.com...
> Christopher Lewis wrote:
>> OK after my last post about the 'gift' of loads of fish I have 
>> returned them to the shop or a colleague is looking after them in his 
>> quarantine tank for me.
>>
>> The trouble is my tank now has white spot.  I bought some ws3 king 
>> british treatment and I was wondering what I should do about 
>> filtration while treating.  Obviously I should not have carbon in the 
>> filter but what about a normal white filter?  I have been told to keep 
>> filtering and remove the filter media depending who I talk to.  SO 
>> what is it?  White filter or just the sponge?  Its a Fluval 3+ if that 
>> makes any difference.
>>
>> Cheers
>>
>> Chris
>>
>> p.s. Follow-Ups set to uk.rec.aquaria.misc
> I can't followup to that group so I'm posting here and replying by 
> email.  Remove the carbon and use all of your other media.  Put in 
> fresh carbon once you're done with the medicine.

King british is a local (UK) remedy which I've heard is effective.  You 
now need to reconcile the water changes to keep the nitrites under 
control and diluting the meds.  With Malachite based treatments, I'd 
recommend starting with a large water change (2/3? taken off the 
substrate where the Ich cysts are), then add a bit of salt (1 tsp/g ? for 
the nitrites), then the meds (1/2 dosage).  Then if the fish were solid, 
the other 1/2 dosage (as applicable) about 12 hours later.   Two days 
later, repeat the routine, but now going to the full dosage (or staying 
with 1/2 dosage or whatever is indicated for scaleless fish, if 
applicable).  As Elaine indicated, carbon out, everything else in. hth
-- 
www.NetMax.tk

"NetMax"  wrote in message 
news:_mzGf.34625$1e5.591724@news20.bellglobal.com...
> "Altum"  wrote in message 
> news:43EA8E17.40301@mad.scientist.com...
>> Christopher Lewis wrote:
>>> OK after my last post about the 'gift' of loads of fish I have returned 
>>> them to the shop or a colleague is looking after them in his quarantine 
>>> tank for me.
>>>
>>> The trouble is my tank now has white spot.  I bought some ws3 king 
>>> british treatment and I was wondering what I should do about filtration 
>>> while treating.  Obviously I should not have carbon in the filter but 
>>> what about a normal white filter?  I have been told to keep filtering 
>>> and remove the filter media depending who I talk to.  SO what is it? 
>>> White filter or just the sponge?  Its a Fluval 3+ if that makes any 
>>> difference.
>>>
>>> Cheers
>>>
>>> Chris
>>>
>>> p.s. Follow-Ups set to uk.rec.aquaria.misc
>> I can't followup to that group so I'm posting here and replying by email. 
>> Remove the carbon and use all of your other media.  Put in fresh carbon 
>> once you're done with the medicine.
>
> King british is a local (UK) remedy which I've heard is effective.  You 
> now need to reconcile the water changes to keep the nitrites under control 
> and diluting the meds.  With Malachite based treatments, I'd recommend 
> starting with a large water change (2/3? taken off the substrate where the 
> Ich cysts are), then add a bit of salt (1 tsp/g ? for the nitrites), then 
> the meds (1/2 dosage).  Then if the fish were solid, the other 1/2 dosage 
> (as applicable) about 12 hours later.   Two days later, repeat the 
> routine, but now going to the full dosage (or staying with 1/2 dosage or 
> whatever is indicated for scaleless fish, if applicable).  As Elaine 
> indicated, carbon out, everything else in. hth
> -- 
> www.NetMax.tk
>


If King british doesn't work (not heard of it) Waterlife's Protozin is very 
effective also.

> If King british doesn't work (not heard of it) Waterlife's Protozin is 
> very effective also.
>
Never used KB products, I have tended to steer clear of them (don't know 
why, probably because I don't associate them with being a well known brand). 
I tended to use the Waterlife range of products, Protozin as mentioned is 
good, although mainly for the pond if I remember correctly. Myxazin has 
always worked well for me, it is not quite so harsh as other treatments. 
Remember though that white spot has a 14- 21 day cycle (temperature 
dependent) whereby just because you cannot see any spots on your fish, 
doesn't mean there are no cysts in the gravel waiting to hatch and begin the 
process again!!

I haven't seen the previous post listing your fish, but if you have catfish 
and clown loaches, they are very sensitive to some treatments.

HTH

Mark
www.marksfish.me.uk

> Remember though that white spot has a 14- 21 day cycle (temperature
> dependent) whereby just because you cannot see any spots on your fish, 
> doesn't mean there are no cysts in the gravel waiting to hatch and begin 
> the process again!!

I thought it was 4-6 days

Protazin suggests treatment on days 1,2,3 & 6 & the only time I've ever had 
Ich come back was when I once when forgot to do the day 6 treatment.

I.

if you temp is up the eighties a weeks treatment is sufficient, if its a 
coldwate tank then you need two treatements, i find protozan the best in my 
opinion.

di


"Iain Miller"  wrote in message 
news:T1KGf.10394$37.2914@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>
>> Remember though that white spot has a 14- 21 day cycle (temperature
>> dependent) whereby just because you cannot see any spots on your fish, 
>> doesn't mean there are no cysts in the gravel waiting to hatch and begin 
>> the process again!!
>
> I thought it was 4-6 days
>
> Protazin suggests treatment on days 1,2,3 & 6 & the only time I've ever 
> had Ich come back was when I once when forgot to do the day 6 treatment.
>
> I.
>

SpiceySpice wrote:
> if you temp is up the eighties a weeks treatment is sufficient, if its a 
> coldwate tank then you need two treatements, i find protozan the best in my 
> opinion.
> 
> di
> 
> 
> "Iain Miller"  wrote in message 
> news:T1KGf.10394$37.2914@newsfe3-win.ntli.net...
>>> Remember though that white spot has a 14- 21 day cycle (temperature
>>> dependent) whereby just because you cannot see any spots on your fish, 
>>> doesn't mean there are no cysts in the gravel waiting to hatch and begin 
>>> the process again!!
>> I thought it was 4-6 days
>>
>> Protazin suggests treatment on days 1,2,3 & 6 & the only time I've ever 
>> had Ich come back was when I once when forgot to do the day 6 treatment.
>>
>> I.
>>
> 
> 

when I have had ich in my tanks WaterLife's Protozin has been useless, 
its never worked. I use the heat treament at the same time as dosing 
with interpet whitespot treament.

works wonders, and only two doses, if you have any scaleless fish, or 
elephant nose fish use HALF the dosage

>when I have had ich in my tanks WaterLife's Protozin has been useless, 
>its never worked. I use the heat treament at the same time as dosing 
>with interpet whitespot treament.
>
>works wonders, and only two doses, if you have any scaleless fish, or 
>elephant nose fish use HALF the dosage

The only thing I've ever had 100% percent success with is "Jungle
Life Guard" now renamed "Jungle Ick Cure". used to be hard to get but
now Wal Mart has it.

Everything else I tried either killed the fish (malachite green is good
for that) or just didn't work.

It says use half strength on loaches, catfish and small tetras.

-- 
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Richard Sexton       | Mercedes stuff: http://mbz.org
1970 280SE, 72 280SE | Home page: http://rs79.vrx.net
633CSi 250SE/C 300SD | http://aquaria.net http://killi.net

> when I have had ich in my tanks WaterLife's Protozin has been useless, its 
> never worked. I use the heat treament at the same time as dosing with 
> interpet whitespot treament.
>
> works wonders, and only two doses, if you have any scaleless fish, or 
> elephant nose fish use HALF the dosage

Complete opposite experience - Protazin has never failed & I only tend to 
use a 3/4 dose because I have loaches. AFAIK all the extra heat does is 
speed up the lifecycle -  doesn't actually kill anything & I've never 
bothered with it (nor salt).

Been using P for over 15 years & its never failed. Don't need it that aften 
(last time was over a year ago) but when I do it always works

I

Iain Miller wrote:
>> when I have had ich in my tanks WaterLife's Protozin has been useless, its 
>> never worked. I use the heat treament at the same time as dosing with 
>> interpet whitespot treament.
>>
>> works wonders, and only two doses, if you have any scaleless fish, or 
>> elephant nose fish use HALF the dosage
> 
> Complete opposite experience - Protazin has never failed & I only tend to 
> use a 3/4 dose because I have loaches. AFAIK all the extra heat does is 
> speed up the lifecycle -  doesn't actually kill anything & I've never 
> bothered with it (nor salt).
> 
> Been using P for over 15 years & its never failed. Don't need it that aften 
> (last time was over a year ago) but when I do it always works
> 
> I 
> 
> 


You are correct it "SPEEDS" up the life cycle. The medication can only 
kill the free swimming parasite, so therefore speeding up the life cycle 
means the are free swimming early, and it takes less time to cure the 
tank, and is less stressful to the fish as they don't have to endure the 
treatment for as long.

§tudz

On Thu, 9 Feb 2006 15:05:40 -0000, Marksfish wrote:
>> If King british doesn't work (not heard of it) Waterlife's Protozin is 
>> very effective also.
>>
>Never used KB products, I have tended to steer clear of them (don't know 
>why, probably because I don't associate them with being a well known brand). 
>I tended to use the Waterlife range of products, Protozin as mentioned is 

I find the waterlife range are variable, some are useless, some
are ok.

King British Ich treatment is great. Worked a treat on my first
tank, didn't hurt any of the fish. 


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