Hi all,

Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)

The neighbour dug this 1986 GPz550 out for me this morning and I
picked it up an hour ago.

Luckily the old (but still reasonably good) battery out of daughters
scooter seemed to be a good fit and I had it spinning over ok.

I splash of petrol out of the 5 gal Jerry can, a quick drain on all
the float bowls to see if anything was coming through and with some
choke,  a tiny cough and a splutter she fired up! ;-)

I didn't run it for long because I was suspicious of how much 'oil'
was in the engine (you had to lay it over (away) to see the level in
the sight glass) and when I drained and re-filled it again it seemed
to take half as much as I took out (and probably where all the petrol
had gone.  Once I've got it a bit tidier I'll change the oil and
filter again properly).

Fired it up, all pipes running hot and it seems to tick over and rev
up a treat .. ;-)

The rear brake seems to drag quite a bit and the foot pedal seems to
go to the stop. The fronts feel pretty dead so I'll probably start
with the brakes, stripping and cleaning so I know all is ok. The disks
feel good (no ridges, cracks or lips) and look like stainless ones
(iron would have been red rusty after 3 years outside).

I also noticed all the rubbers that join the carbs to the air box seem
to be not on the carbs and from a quick poke they seem very hard (not
rubbery at all). Is this typical, do I just get them back on, is there
something I can do with these to make them more pliable or am I in for
a new set?

Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay?

Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
tighten it up please?

I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light
flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge
actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so
I know the display does).

£35 to transfer the Comp insurance from the CB Two Fifty to this and
about £100 /pa normally (£97 TPFT so not worth dropping back).

Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. As I went over to get the 550 he was just loading an old XT125
onto another neighbours scrap lorry. It had been running but was
nicked and a bit bashed about (couldn't start it, got angry with it)
and found locally again.  I *nearly* asked him if I could take that as
well but with umpteen bikes and 1,000,000 other things I'm supposed to
be sorting ... <sigh>

T i m  wrote:

> Hi all,
> 
> Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)
> 
Yay!

<Snip>
> 
> The rear brake seems to drag quite a bit and the foot pedal seems to
> go to the stop.

Seized fronts and spongey rear. Easily fixed. A caliper strip and
rebuild and new fluid. Maybe new steel hoses.

> 
> I also noticed all the rubbers that join the carbs to the air box seem
> to be not on the carbs and from a quick poke they seem very hard (not
> rubbery at all). Is this typical, do I just get them back on, is there
> something I can do with these to make them more pliable or am I in for
> a new set?

Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely.
> 
> Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay?

Yep. Or any supplier
> 
> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
> tighten it up please?

Er, by tightening up the securing bolts.

> 
> I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light
> flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge
> actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so
> I know the display does).

It will. They rarely give trouble.
> 
> 
> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?

There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when
the engine's turning over.

There will be a PRIME position, though.

-- 
BMW K1100LT  Ducati 750SS  Yamaha XT600E  Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

The Older Gentleman wrote:
> T i m  wrote:
> 
>> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
>> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
>> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?
> 
> There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when
> the engine's turning over.
> 
> There will be a PRIME position, though.

PRIME is in-between ON and RES, if you're sure you've found them.

-- 
Eddie                                                eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900                   http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:51:15 +0100, Eddie  wrote:

>The Older Gentleman wrote:
>> T i m  wrote:
>> 
>>> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
>>> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
>>> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?
>> 
>> There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when
>> the engine's turning over.
>> 
>> There will be a PRIME position, though.
>
>PRIME is in-between ON and RES, if you're sure you've found them.

Well I've found one or the other because there was no fuel coming
through, I moved the tap then there was Eddie. ;-)

I suppose if it had been left in the PRIME position and a float jet
was leaking it could have filled the sump with fuel (I don't think it
was water as it smelled like fuel and didn't look all emulsified)?

He says he has the Haynes BOL for it so that might help on a few
points.

All the best ..

T i m

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 19:39:57 +0100, totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk
(The Older Gentleman) wrote:

>T i m  wrote:
>
>> Hi all,
>> 
>> Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)
>> 
>Yay!

Good huh! ;-)
>
><Snip>
>> 
>> The rear brake seems to drag quite a bit and the foot pedal seems to
>> go to the stop.
>
>Seized fronts and spongey rear.

Semi seized fronts (not dragging too badly and working when you pulled
the lever) but seized / gone rear certainly! ;-)

>Easily fixed. A caliper strip and
>rebuild and new fluid.

New seals and dust covers TOG, or just a good clean, piston lube (I
have some of that red rubber brake assembly lube) and fresh DOT4?

>Maybe new steel hoses.

I'm not a fan but if the old rubber ones are bad I'll replace them
with said.
>
>> 
>> I also noticed all the rubbers that join the carbs to the air box seem
>> to be not on the carbs and from a quick poke they seem very hard 
>
>Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely.

Just while you are getting them on or do they stay soft for a while?
Are new ones generally soft?
>> 
>> Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay?
>
>Yep. Or any supplier

kk
>> 
>> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
>> tighten it up please?
>
>Er, by tightening up the securing bolts.

<g>, yes, but I've not seen those sort of bars before and the
'securing bolts' didn't seem that obvious? I'll have a furtle in the
daylight though.
>
>> 
>> I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light
>> flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge
>> actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so
>> I know the display does).
>
>It will. They rarely give trouble.

Oh, good. I'm not a fan of electronics on motor vehicles generally.
>> 
>> 
>> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
>> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
>> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?
>
>There's no OFF position. It's a vacuum fuel tap so only passes fuel when
>the engine's turning over.

Ah, I did consider that option (like her XV750 I believe) but from the
quick glimpse in the half light I thought I could only see one hose
coming from the tap. I'll check it out better tomorrow.
>
>There will be a PRIME position, though.

Ah, and maybe where it was left to get the sump full of fuel. :-(

Well, I'm looking forward to stripping the various bits down and
sorting them out. No better way to get to know yer vehicle and put's
you in a better position should you get problems on the road.

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. Luckily, in every case I've been driving a vehicle and it's
broken down I've been able to tell the AA / whoever exactly what was
wrong.

Fairly new Mk5 Cortina. Auto choke stuck on. I'd released it and got
it going myself before the AA turned up (I did ring them to tell
them). ;-)

Sierra with semi seized caliper. The lights fused on the recovery
lorry as it arrived and I had to jury rig a fix for him. ;-)

R100RT, clutch splines stripped. Just got relayed 175 miles home.
Driver just loaded it on as he did said riders of older bikes often
knew more about their bikes than they did. ;-)

T i m wrote:

> I suppose if it had been left in the PRIME position and a float jet
> was leaking it could have filled the sump with fuel (I don't think it
> was water as it smelled like fuel and didn't look all emulsified)?
> 

Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the
airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the
bike is slightly warmed up.

It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it
happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls), and several
hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out.

You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads
from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose.

T i m wrote:
>>> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
>>> tighten it up please?
>> Er, by tightening up the securing bolts.
> 
> <g>, yes, but I've not seen those sort of bars before and the
> 'securing bolts' didn't seem that obvious? I'll have a furtle in the
> daylight though.

IIRC, there are clamps that bolt into the top yoke, under the top yoke 
cover. It was a long time ago, though.

Yeah, this matches what I remember:
http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1986-a3-zx550_model12812/partslist/F2310.html

-- 
Eddie                                                eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900                   http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

T i m  wrote:

> >Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely.
> 
> Just while you are getting them on or do they stay soft for a while?

TYhey'll stay soft for long enough.

> Are new ones generally soft?

Softer, certainly. And expensive.

-- 
BMW K1100LT  Ducati 750SS  Yamaha XT600E  Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 21:02:38 +0100, Eddie  wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>>>> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
>>>> tighten it up please?
>>> Er, by tightening up the securing bolts.
>> 
>> <g>, yes, but I've not seen those sort of bars before and the
>> 'securing bolts' didn't seem that obvious? I'll have a furtle in the
>> daylight though.
>
>IIRC, there are clamps that bolt into the top yoke, under the top yoke 
>cover. It was a long time ago, though.
>
>Yeah, this matches what I remember:
>http://www.cmsnl.com/kawasaki-1986-a3-zx550_model12812/partslist/F2310.html

Ah, that's handy Eddie, thanks. ;-)

As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but
the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike
was first registered (rather than built etc)?

All the best and thanks again ..

T i m

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 22:57:25 +0100, totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk
(The Older Gentleman) wrote:

>T i m  wrote:
>
>> >Pour boiling water over them. It softens them nicely.
>> 
>> Just while you are getting them on or do they stay soft for a while?
>
>TYhey'll stay soft for long enough.

Ah, ok. ;-)
>
>> Are new ones generally soft?
>
>Softer, certainly. And expensive.

Gotcha, boiling water it is then.

All the best ..

T i m

T i m  wrote:

> As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but
> the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike
> was first registered (rather than built etc)?

It's quite likely to be an A2 that spent some time in a showroom. It
doesn't matter, anyway: the differences will only be something minor
like decal colours.

-- 
BMW K1100LT  Ducati 750SS  Yamaha XT600E  Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:16:32 +0100, totallydeadmailbox@yahoo.co.uk
(The Older Gentleman) wrote:

>T i m  wrote:
>
>> As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but
>> the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike
>> was first registered (rather than built etc)?
>
>It's quite likely to be an A2 that spent some time in a showroom. It
>doesn't matter, anyway: the differences will only be something minor
>like decal colours.

Ah, brilliant, thanks TOG.

Also as you seem to know such things <g>,  why does the logbook call
it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?

FEIW, when doing an online insurance quote I chose for the model ..

KAWASAKI GPZ 550 Sports 1981-1991 553cc Manual Petrol

..  which was the best / nearest match but wasn't sure if the 'sports'
bit was right (was there a sports model, is mine it etc)?


All the best ..

T i m

p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
that was mad)? :-(

On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:33:03 -0500, "Simian"
 wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>
>> I suppose if it had been left in the PRIME position and a float jet
>> was leaking it could have filled the sump with fuel (I don't think it
>> was water as it smelled like fuel and didn't look all emulsified)?
>> 
>
>Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the
>airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the
>bike is slightly warmed up.

This is even after I've changed the oil yes (to help clear remnants
etc)?
>
>It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it
>happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls),

Ah, I think I might be tempted to remove the carbs and strip them down
but at the moment it's a touch of don't fix what's not broken?

> and several
>hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out.

Oh, what were the symptoms please Simian?
>
>You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads
>from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose.

Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
mine)? ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:
> On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:33:03 -0500, "Simian"
>  wrote:
> 
>> You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads
>>from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose.
> 
> Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,

No, the bike pump is for pressuring the front forks, nothing to do with 
the anti-dive. There should be a valve just under the top yoke on one 
side, with a link pipe to the other. Use a gauge and a hand pump to 
adjust the pressure to ~12psi. Don't over-pressure it, or you'll 
probably pop something.

This is, of course, assuming that they still hold pressure...

> that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
> mine)? ;-)

No, it doesn't. ISTR that a common hack was to remove the gubbins and 
blank it all off (I never bothered), but I was told recently that you 
need to make a bypass thingy for where it bolts onto the fork to let the 
fluid move.

-- 
Eddie                                                eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900                   http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

T i m wrote:
> 
> Also as you seem to know such things <g>,  why does the logbook call
> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?

Many manufacturers (Kawasaki in particular) use different names for 
their "branding" and for the "official" model names; this is an example 
of that.

My ZX-9R is technically known as a "ZX900-E2". My GT750 was a Z750-P5, IIRC.

There was a thread about this, just last week, I think.

> FEIW, when doing an online insurance quote I chose for the model ..
> 
> KAWASAKI GPZ 550 Sports 1981-1991 553cc Manual Petrol
> 
> ..  which was the best / nearest match but wasn't sure if the 'sports'
> bit was right (was there a sports model, is mine it etc)?

That should be the right one.

> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
> that was mad)? :-(

I haven't ridden a Divvy much, but I guess it should be better. Nimbler, 
less lardy.

-- 
Eddie                                                eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900                   http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

T i m wrote:
> > Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the
> > airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the
> > bike is slightly warmed up.
> 
> This is even after I've changed the oil yes (to help clear remnants
> etc)?

Yup, If the contamination wasn't particularly bad, then it'll probably
be OK, but if you've got half a tank drained into the sump, the
remnants of oil after a change still contain a significant amount of
petrol.


> > It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it
> > happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls),
> 
> Ah, I think I might be tempted to remove the carbs and strip them down
> but at the moment it's a touch of don't fix what's not broken?

Wouldn't bother if it's running properly, just don't leave it on prime.


> > and several
> > hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out.
> 
> Oh, what were the symptoms please Simian?

Slip then grab.


> > You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that
> > reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I
> > suppose.
> 
> Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
> that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
> mine)? ;-)

Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung. On the left fork there's a
tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think.
Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and
they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to
check to make sure.


The biggest problem with the handling of the GPZ is the forks being too
soft on slow compression, but rock hard on fast compression, there is
no way of fixing both of these problems at the same time, other than by
riding as smoothly as you can.

T i m wrote:


> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
> that was mad)? :-(

CBR600s are quite tame really. Mines a bit less tame than most of its
age due t the exhaust, filter and jetting kit, but it's not scary. A
ZX10R C1H or GSXR1000 K5/6 is what I'd call mad

-- 
Lozzo
SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka
and a shit load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage
I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 09:04:25 +0100, Eddie  wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>> On Mon, 25 Aug 2008 14:33:03 -0500, "Simian"
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that reads
>>>from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I suppose.
>> 
>> Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
>
>No, the bike pump is for pressuring the front forks, nothing to do with 
>the anti-dive. There should be a valve just under the top yoke on one 
>side, with a link pipe to the other. Use a gauge and a hand pump to 
>adjust the pressure to ~12psi. Don't over-pressure it, or you'll 
>probably pop something.

Ah, gotit, ta. So the air assists the springs (seen in the fiche)?
>
>This is, of course, assuming that they still hold pressure...

Well, if it means anything they seemed to look and feel alright when I
wheeled it over and braked a few times to check the front brakes /
headset etc.
>
>> that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
>> mine)? ;-)
>
>No, it doesn't. ISTR that a common hack was to remove the gubbins and 
>blank it all off (I never bothered), but I was told recently that you 
>need to make a bypass thingy for where it bolts onto the fork to let the 
>fluid move.

(understood) And more good info ta. 

All the best ..

T i m

T i m wrote:
> On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 09:04:25 +0100, Eddie  wrote:
> 
>> No, the bike pump is for pressuring the front forks, nothing to do with 
>> the anti-dive. There should be a valve just under the top yoke on one 
>> side, with a link pipe to the other. Use a gauge and a hand pump to 
>> adjust the pressure to ~12psi. Don't over-pressure it, or you'll 
>> probably pop something.
> 
> Ah, gotit, ta. So the air assists the springs (seen in the fiche)?

Yes.

>> This is, of course, assuming that they still hold pressure...
> 
> Well, if it means anything they seemed to look and feel alright when I
> wheeled it over and braked a few times to check the front brakes /
> headset etc.

IIRC, if they weren't pressured it wasn't really noticeable when pushing 
it around, but it made a world of difference when you rode it. I vaguely 
remember that it used to feel like there was a problem with the back end.

-- 
Eddie                                                eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900                   http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 03:46:09 -0500, "Simian"
 wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>> > Run the engine with the sump breather pipe disconnected from the
>> > airbox, a petrol / oil mix will pump smoke out of the sump once the
>> > bike is slightly warmed up.
>> 
>> This is even after I've changed the oil yes (to help clear remnants
>> etc)?
>
>Yup, If the contamination wasn't particularly bad, then it'll probably
>be OK, but if you've got half a tank drained into the sump, the
>remnants of oil after a change still contain a significant amount of
>petrol.
>
I drained out probably 4 l of a runny oil looking fluid that had a bit
of a petroly smell about it. It still felt very much like oil but
moved more like fork oil (even when cold).
>
>> > It took 3 changes of oil to clear the petrol from the sump when it
>> > happened to me (broken tap, grit in the float bowls),
>> 
>> Ah, I think I might be tempted to remove the carbs and strip them down
>> but at the moment it's a touch of don't fix what's not broken?
>
>Wouldn't bother if it's running properly, just don't leave it on prime.

Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when I
find it) ;-)
>
>
>> > and several
>> > hundred miles before the clutch sorted itself out.
>> 
>> Oh, what were the symptoms please Simian?
>
>Slip then grab.

Ok ..
>
>
>> > You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that
>> > reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I
>> > suppose.
>> 
>> Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
>> that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
>> mine)? ;-)
>
>Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung.

Ta.

> On the left fork there's a
>tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think.
>Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and
>they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to
>check to make sure.

Ok I've sent the assembly on the fiche and have a pump / gauge so I'll
check it out when I can.
>
>
>The biggest problem with the handling of the GPZ is the forks being too
>soft on slow compression, but rock hard on fast compression, there is
>no way of fixing both of these problems at the same time, other than by
>riding as smoothly as you can.

Ok, well I try to do that anyway but at least I know what to look out
for now.

All the best and thanks again ..

T i m

On 26 Aug 2008 09:24:16 GMT, "Lozzo"  wrote:

>T i m wrote:
>
>
>> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
>> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
>> that was mad)? :-(
>
>CBR600s are quite tame really. Mines a bit less tame than most of its
>age due t the exhaust, filter and jetting kit, but it's not scary.

I guess that depends on the fastest thing you had ridden before, what
you were riding at the time and what you were wearing.

I was on my R100RT and maty on his 600. He pulls over somewhere,
basically nicks my BM (cos he wanted to have a go on one) and leaves
me with his 600 to catch up. So, digital throttle, nothing happening
below 6k and a jacket that inflates like a balloon when not sitting
behind a f-off big screen. :-(

Oh, and he's off filtering in the fairly fast moving traffic on my
beemer.

I do remember that it was very planted though, man-hole covers and the
like didn't flick you sideways 6 inches like on the RT but as for
'fun', no, glad to be back on the old BM.

> A
>ZX10R C1H or GSXR1000 K5/6 is what I'd call mad

I'm quite sure, and hence why they have never interested me. The 900
Divvy was obviously capable of much more than I asked of it but (and
it was superior to the RT in nearly every way) but left me completely
cold [1]. I'm even looking at this 550 and wondering if I can raise
and widen the bars somehow? I wouldn't even mind losing the little
fairing and making it just a naked bike (and with a steerable
headlight).

All the best ..

T i m

[1] I was loaned it for a week. I rode it about then home the first
day I got it and similar the second time when I took it back.

On 26 Aug, 11:17, T i m  wrote:

 The 900
> Divvy was obviously capable of much more than I asked of it but (and
> it was superior to the RT in nearly every way) but left me completely
> cold

That's how it left me. I bought a new one in about 2000. It was
incredibly efficient, reliable, comfy, decent fairing, big tank: it
replaced my Kawasaki GT750 as a comuter and tourer. I just got bored
to hell with it, and chopped it in for a Triumph Trophy 1200 (which in
turn got chopped for the present BMW).

The 900 Div was a bloody good working bike: if I was a long-distance
despatch rider, I'd have one.

Oh, and it was a lardy old bus. God knows why it weighed as much as it
did.

On 26 Aug, 08:21, T i m  wrote:


>
> Also as you seem to know such things <g>,  why does the logbook call
> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?
>
GPz is the sort of 'public' model name. 'ZX' is Kawasaki's own ID
scheme. Confusing, I know.
>
> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
> that was mad)? :-(

No way

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 03:50:39 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
 wrote:

>On 26 Aug, 11:17, T i m  wrote:
>
> The 900
>> Divvy was obviously capable of much more than I asked of it but (and
>> it was superior to the RT in nearly every way) but left me completely
>> cold
>
>That's how it left me. I bought a new one in about 2000. It was
>incredibly efficient, reliable, comfy, decent fairing, big tank: it
>replaced my Kawasaki GT750 as a comuter and tourer. I just got bored
>to hell with it, and chopped it in for a Triumph Trophy 1200 (which in
>turn got chopped for the present BMW).

Maybe BM's are something you grow into as you (we) get older then TOG.
;-)
>
>The 900 Div was a bloody good working bike: if I was a long-distance
>despatch rider, I'd have one.

Agreed. This one had done 60k and never been touched.
>
>Oh, and it was a lardy old bus. God knows why it weighed as much as it
>did.

Yeah, I noticed that (especially compared with the old RT) The Divy
dry (239kg) is the same weight as my RT with 5 gallons of fuel but it
felt much heavier.

When I got this 550 in the back yard last night it wasn't easy to
maneuver into place as the brakes were dragging so I thought I'd try
lifting the back round, and much to my surprise I did, quite easily.
;-)

All the best ..

T i m

I was really looking forward to getting stuck into it today but as I
was tidying up the bits yesterday, instead of lifting my leg up ready
to over the crap just behind the garage door I knee'd (hard) the steel
door frame instead. I still can't bend my leg properly ... :-(

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 03:52:34 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
 wrote:

>On 26 Aug, 08:21, T i m  wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Also as you seem to know such things <g>,  why does the logbook call
>> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
>> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?
>>
>GPz is the sort of 'public' model name. 'ZX' is Kawasaki's own ID
>scheme. Confusing, I know.

Tell me about it. It's ok once you know you can generally use any
anagram of a mix of letters but up till then? :-(
>>
>> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
>> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
>> that was mad)? :-(
>
>No way

Cool. So would you say it is an 'interesting' bike to ride (today) and
why please?

If there were any ergonomic adjustments you would make to it, what
would they be?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. The previous owner noted the bars felt very narrow (compared with
his Firestorm at the time anyway).

T i m  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
> 
> I drained out probably 4 l of a runny oil looking fluid that had a bit
> of a petroly smell about it. It still felt very much like oil but
> moved more like fork oil (even when cold).

Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff.

> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when I
> find it) ;-)

IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a fish 
drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).

-- 
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity

frag wrote:
> T i m  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>>
>> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
>> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
>> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when
>> I find it) ;-)
>
> IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a
> fish drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).

"Prime" actually means "Open, Even When The Engine Isn't Running", and is 
found on vacuum-operated taps.  I think you're thinking of the choke.

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:10:38 +0100, frag  wrote:

>T i m  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>> 
>> I drained out probably 4 l of a runny oil looking fluid that had a bit
>> of a petroly smell about it. It still felt very much like oil but
>> moved more like fork oil (even when cold).
>
>Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff.

Not sure it would have Frag as even though it didn't smell just like
oil I'm not sure it was that fumey either. Mind you, had what little
he probably had in the tank actually leaked through the carbs and into
the engine may have long since lost all it's lighter fractions
(benzene etc).

It's funny what people say about fresh fuel etc. I dare say they are
right when it comes to performance engines but the REB350 and my old
kitcar would probably run on paraffin and the fuel now in the 550 is
probably 5 years old (and has been in a sealed Jerry can all that
time). It doesn't seem to mind it (starts and runs smooth enough). ;-)

Just think how fast it will go with some real fresh fuel in it eh!
>
>> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
>> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
>> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when I
>> find it) ;-)
>
>IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a fish 
>drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).

I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float
valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running)
but not if left on when running normally Frag?

All the best ..

T i m

On 26 Aug, 13:01, T i m  wrote:

>
> Cool. So would you say it is an 'interesting' bike to ride (today) and
> why please?

It makes a nice noise. It's amazingly economical. It's just 'fun'.
>
> If there were any ergonomic adjustments you would make to it, what
> would they be?
>
I'd change the bars for something a bit lower. Maybe Telefix.

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 12:23:11 GMT, "platypus"
 wrote:

>frag wrote:
>> T i m  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
>>>
>>> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
>>> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
>>> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when
>>> I find it) ;-)
>>
>> IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a
>> fish drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).
>
>"Prime" actually means "Open, Even When The Engine Isn't Running", and is 
>found on vacuum-operated taps.  I think you're thinking of the choke.

Ah, that would make more sense.

The CB Two Fifty may have something wrong in the carb (or it's been
setup badly) as although it starts on the button when cold it is
really quite touchy about running on choke (or even partial choke) and
not happy till it's warmed up a bit (2 mins or so)?

It seems to have a real flat / dead spot off high tick over yet will
start at the hint of the starter and tick over very slowly when warm.

I picked up a spare carb (ebay) with the intention of having a
potentially lower mileage one cleaned and ready to swap over (the CB
has done 60k miles). Just not got rounduit yet. :-(

All the best ..

T i m

platypus  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
> 
> frag wrote:
> > T i m  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
> >>
> >> Ok. I can't actually read what it says on the tap as yet (rusty) and
> >> don't have a manual or handbook as yet. I guess I can pull the fuel
> >> pipe and see what does what though (and don't leave it in PRIME when
> >> I find it) ;-)
> >
> > IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a
> > fish drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).
> 
> "Prime" actually means "Open, Even When The Engine Isn't Running", and is 
> found on vacuum-operated taps.  I think you're thinking of the choke.
>  

Ah right, thanks. Every days a school day, etc.

I knew it had something to do with priming the carbs before starting from 
dry.

Do bikes that have vaccum operated fuel taps have the usual float and cut 
off valve in the "where the float would go if it had one" bowl?

I'm trying to think of a reason you'd put the fuel tap onto "Off" (whether 
by tap or vaccum), all I can come up with are maintenance, if somethings 
fucked and leaking, an accident or for storage / transport?


-- 
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity

T i m  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
> 
> On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 13:10:38 +0100, frag  wrote:
> 
> >Chuck a lighted match in a little bit and see if it says Wuff.
> 
> Not sure it would have Frag as even though it didn't smell just like
> oil I'm not sure it was that fumey either. Mind you, had what little
> he probably had in the tank actually leaked through the carbs and into
> the engine may have long since lost all it's lighter fractions
> (benzene etc).

Ah well, oil is cheap. I would have filled it with the cheapest orrid new 
stuff I could find, run it for a week, then do the same, then change it and 
filter for decent stuff. Flush the engine out.

> Just think how fast it will go with some real fresh fuel in it eh!

Heh, 98 RON.

> >IWHT running it on prime, it will run like shit and use fuel like a fish 
> >drinks water (yes, yes, I know!).
> 
> I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float
> valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running)
> but not if left on when running normally Frag?

Nope, ignore that, me getting my chokes and primes mixed up.


-- 
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity

frag wrote:
> 
> Do bikes that have vaccum operated fuel taps have the usual float and cut 
> off valve in the "where the float would go if it had one" bowl?

Yes. The tap just lets fuel flow, it doesn't regulate it at all.

> I'm trying to think of a reason you'd put the fuel tap onto "Off" (whether 
> by tap or vaccum), all I can come up with are maintenance, if somethings 
> fucked and leaking, an accident or for storage / transport?

Yes to all of those.

-- 
Eddie                                                eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900                   http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

T i m  wrote:

> Re the economy TOG. What I have read so far it suggests about 50 mpg?

Overall, yes. But it's very easy to get closer to 60mpg if you don't
exceed 80 very often.

>
> FWIW that's about the same as my 1000 cc BM and 1900cc Rover 218SD? CB
> Two Fifty about 75 mpg?

I'd expect a little less for the 250 - maybe 60-65mpg.


-- 
BMW K1100LT  Ducati 750SS  Yamaha XT600E  Honda CB400F
chateau dot murray at idnet dot com
"What you're proposing to do will involve a lot of time
and hassle for no tangible benefit."

On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 03:52:34 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
 wrote:

>On 26 Aug, 08:21, T i m  wrote:
>
>
>>
>> Also as you seem to know such things <g>,  why does the logbook call
>> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
>> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?
>>
>GPz is the sort of 'public' model name. 'ZX' is Kawasaki's own ID
>scheme. Confusing, I know.

Not unusual, though.

I currently own an SC25, an SC22 and a CB1.

Okay, the last one's obvious, but the other two aren't.


-- 
Salad Dodger
"Haffely, Gaffely, Gaffely, Gonward."

Simian wrote:

> > > You'll need a bicycle pump for the front forks and a guage that
> > > reads from 5-12 psi. Or a ruler, to measure the fork extension, I
> > > suppose.
> > 
> > Yeah I saw the extra bits on the front of the front fork sliders,
> > that's the anti dive is it, does it work (I mean did it ever, not just
> > mine)? ;-)
> 
> Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung. On the left fork there's a
> tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think.
> Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and
> they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to
> check to make sure.

It's 8.5 psi on the GT750 but has bugger all effect.  Getting the rears
right 25 psi does.

The Guzzi's front forks are 25 psi which does have an effect.

You choose.  Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front forks
on the Kawasaki.  The GT doesn't have anti dive though

-- 
Simon

Eddie wrote:

> My GT750 was a Z750-P5, IIRC.

It is and you do.

-- 
Simon

On 26 Aug 2008 23:22:49 GMT, "sweller" 
wrote:
 
>Simian wrote:

>> Like Eddie said, the forks are air sprung. On the left fork there's a
>> tyre valve type thing. The BOL says something like 8-12 psi, I think.
>> Put too much in and the forks over extend and top out, too little and
>> they bottom out. I think 10psi was the magic figure, but I'd have to
>> check to make sure.
>
>It's 8.5 psi on the GT750 but has bugger all effect.  Getting the rears
>right 25 psi does.
>
>The Guzzi's front forks are 25 psi which does have an effect.
>
>You choose.  Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front forks
>on the Kawasaki.  The GT doesn't have anti dive though

The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.

And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
overall handling.

-- 
  _______
.'_/_|_\_'.  Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\  |  /`/  
 `\\ | //'   BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
   `\|/`
     `

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:02:17 +0200, Ace  wrote:


>The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
>it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.
>
>And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
>had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
>overall handling.

Is it worth removing though Ace (mention of substituting bits) or
should I just leave it all on there?

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when
the front brake is applied?

T i m wrote:

> On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:02:17 +0200, Ace  wrote:
> 
> 
> > The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
> > it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.
> > 
> > And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had
> > ever had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add
> > to the overall handling.
> 
> Is it worth removing though Ace (mention of substituting bits) or
> should I just leave it all on there?
> 
> p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when
> the front brake is applied?

In theory when the front brake is applied brake fluid pressure forces a
plunger down in a seperate chamber which closes off a valve on the
front of the fork leg - this limits the flow of fork oil as the forks
try to compress under braking in proportion to how much brake pressure
is applied. In practise this doesn't happen; the plunger sticks and
this leads to the forks locking up or the anti-dive just not working at
all, or working randomly. This is an MOT fail as they test the
anti-dive as well.

There's a simple solution that requires the fabrication of a pair of
plates to blank off the plungers from the forks These plates need a
groove maching in to allow the fork oil to move between two chambers in
the forks. It's simple to do and I'll be making/fitting them to a
GPZ750 Turbo very soon.

-- 
Lozzo
SV650S K5, CBR600F-W, SR250 SpazzTrakka
and a shit load more 2-wheeled junk in the garage
I believe in free speech, but I still have to pay my phone bill

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 09:51:15 +0100, T i m  wrote:
 
>On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 10:02:17 +0200, Ace  wrote:
>
>
>>The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
>>it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.
>>
>>And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
>>had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
>>overall handling.
>
>Is it worth removing though Ace (mention of substituting bits) or
>should I just leave it all on there?

I never bothered, but I only had the bike for a few months before it
began to crumble[1] round me and was replaced by a GPX600. It never
caused my any problems, but I've no idea if this was just good fortune
or not.

>p.s. Does it reduce the hydraulic fluid movement in the fork legs when
>the front brake is applied?

Something like that. Lozzo's reply will give the technical details,
I'm sure.

[1] It had done >30k miles, IIRC, and was fairly ratty when I bought
it. Then I used it for a 150 miles/day commute, so it didn't take very
long at all for stuff[2] to start wearing out. 
[2] Rear sub-frame broke off on one side, with evidence of a previous
weld becoming visible. Clutch started slipping. And basically it was
just shagged.


-- 
  _______
.'_/_|_\_'.  Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\  |  /`/  
 `\\ | //'   BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
   `\|/`
     `

On Aug 25, 6:45 pm, T i m  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)

Oh, yes, of course--they are a 550/4.

<snip>

> I didn't run it for long because I was suspicious of how much 'oil'
> was in the engine (you had to lay it over (away) to see the level in
> the sight glass) and when I drained and re-filled it again it seemed
> to take half as much as I took out (and probably where all the petrol
> had gone.  Once I've got it a bit tidier I'll change the oil and
> filter again properly).

I think you should be looking at about 2.8L as some
gets caught in the filter. Is the case stamped 3.4?

A drain and refill (no filter) from 10W/40 to 20W/50
for the baking summer roads took a little under 3L.

The level may vary also with where the engine stops
in its cycle - or this could be just down to me priming
mine more than necessary (or not...see below IRT
your question about fuel taps).

> Fired it up, all pipes running hot and it seems to tick over and rev
> up a treat .. ;-)
>
>
> Also the front brake lever is snapped off at the end .. eBay?

If the lever is usable I would recommend local breakers'
first stop - once you've worked out how to get the lever
on and off - as they may well be open to you trying a few
for size until you find one which fits.

Or check out the small ads in the bike press (MCN).

I understand a scheme was prototyped whereby a ring
(in a good sense, not the making stolen bikes reappear
in untraceable guises sense) of reputable breakers were
linked to bulk-text (SMS) and parts could be ordered
from a nationwide network with one call.

On the other hand a guy I kind of know loosely and have
no reason to doubt recommended eBay as he found a
guy with spares for his Canadian import within an hour.

> Oh, and the right hand bar feels a bit lose on the stanchion, how do I
> tighten it up please?

No idea. There's also a guy who specialises in Haynes
manuals for everything if anyone knows his number.

> I put the little probe into the battery and that stopped that light
> flashing, just need a bit more fuel to see if the lcd fuel gauge
> actually works (it does it's little disco thing when you switch on so
> I know the display does).
>
> £35 to transfer the Comp insurance from the CB Two Fifty to this and
> about £100 /pa normally (£97 TPFT so not worth dropping back).
>
> Can anyone remember which way the fuel tap works please? (obviously
> I've found ON or RES just not sure which is off) and any other
> thoughts as to what bits I should check / do please?

At the risk of either duplicating information or being accused
of being a misinformational troll 8?). my knowledge of this
goes back to when I used a Suzuki vacuum tap.

At first sight they are identical but ISTR, as it was a dealer
I knew, that Suzukis you prime every time you start them
and Kawasakis you prime once, until the tank runs out.

Leaving the tap in the PRI position may be what caused
petrol flow into the block in the first place - hence my comments
about oil level changing - it may not do, it may just be eked
out as a petroil mix.

I thought someone locally was taking the mick out of my
yearsof riding two-strokes when my back was turned when
I could smell the petrol in the oil pan...but on reflection
mayhaps not.

I started off priming mine before every start, as per Suzukis,
then one morning when I forgot about the tap and just
pressed start and it slowly eased into life with no throttle
and no choke, I took to only priming it when the filler cap
had been opened or I'd heard the vacuum hissing, as it
does on a hot day when parked up.

Right now I just leave it set to "ON".

I thought for a while I was getting better fuel economy by
priming it every start, and this was to do with the integrity
of the vacuums, but despite not having had a comparable
long (150miles) journey on which to assess it since, I'm
not actually convinced of this now.

Fuel just runs through when it is on prime until the float
overflows, SFAICT. Whereas in "ON" or "RES" is needs
to be drawn.

You will however need to prime it from dry, and after the
tank has been removed. As such, if you run your main
tank off you would need to prime it before you can use
the RES--no idea of capacity, not needed it, probably
about 10 miles.

Do check it out but you may find with them being vaccum
carbs that you have a dual cable accelerator. It is entirely
possible one of these is a "decelerator" which actively
closes the flow.

In short, there is no "OFF" position on Kawasaki or
Suzuki vaccum fuel taps (other makes? I dunno).

If it is left in "PRI" fuel will run out all over the place.

If it is left in "ON" or "RES" the fuel will need to be pulled
out. As such, when you remove the tank, make sure it is
in "ON" or "RES", and, paradoxical as it may seem, the fuel
will stay in the tank.

You will probably need to remove the tank to check the
state of the plugs, for example, which thankfully seem
OK.

I don't suppose you can tell from a description whether
my Scottoiler has ever been used or whether there's just
a wee bit of oil in it from whoever installed it? It looks
pristine, and I'm not convinced it's actually fitted and
have no docs or instructions, or any idea whether it's
a straight drip-drip-drip, an electric graduated drip or a
vaccum-linked drip. Or even if it's the right one for the
machine. So old lubes and solvents and elbow grease
and grease, and old lubes, and solvents are my current
solution...

> All the best ..
>
> T i m
>
> p.s. As I went over to get the 550 he was just loading an old XT125
> onto another neighbours scrap lorry. It had been running but was
> nicked and a bit bashed about (couldn't start it, got angry with it)
> and found locally again.  I *nearly* asked him if I could take that as
> well but with umpteen bikes and 1,000,000 other things I'm supposed to
> be sorting ... <sigh>

May be duplicating what's already in the thread but that's
my two cents.

G DAEB
COPYRIGHT (C) 2008 SIPSTON
--

On Aug 25, 6:45 pm, T i m  wrote:
> Hi all,
>
> Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)
>

Ah, one thing I read somewhere recently but
which really threw me my first time on a 4
is there just isn't any engine braking, hardly.

Even compared to strokers there's very little.

I thought the clutch was dicky.

But no, this is normal.

If no-one's told you this already I wish someone
had me.

No, I didn't have webternet facapabilty at the
time or I might have asked.

Back on a twin though and I kind of can't
help thinking once the BMW I've decided is
my next bike to buy (any so long as it will
run and run) I may go for a very large bore
single.

I'm not convinced I like 4s, but time will tell.

G DAEB
COPYRIGHT (C) 2008 SIPSTON
--

On Aug 26, 8:21 am, T i m  wrote:
> On Tue, 26 Aug 2008 07:16:32 퍝, totallydeadmail...@yahoo.co.uk
>
> (The Older Gentleman) wrote:
> >T i m  wrote:
>
> >> As an aside, the logbook shows my bike as an 86 and a 'ZX550-A2' but
> >> the fiches suggest an 86 is an A3? Is this just down to when the bike
> >> was first registered (rather than built etc)?
>
> >It's quite likely to be an A2 that spent some time in a showroom. It
> >doesn't matter, anyway: the differences will only be something minor
> >like decal colours.
>
> Ah, brilliant, thanks TOG.
>
> Also as you seem to know such things <g>,  why does the logbook call
> it a ZX550 when on the side panels it says GPz550 (I mean, apart from
> the Z and numbers the two are quite different)?
>
> FEIW, when doing an online insurance quote I chose for the model ..
>
> KAWASAKI GPZ 550 Sports 1981-1991 553cc Manual Petrol
>
> ..  which was the best / nearest match but wasn't sure if the 'sports'
> bit was right (was there a sports model, is mine it etc)?
>
> All the best ..

Having been instantly flamed for not doing my
homework, and with an eye on insurance claims,
is this not the kind of homework that finding your
local Kawasaki dealer could get you a pass grade
in?

OE should always be used, despite you could
take an impression of the existing brake lever
with a large supermarket cob or wodge of papier
mache then fashion one from araldite...you should
declare the mod lest a valuer decide not to pay
out in the event of a write-off.

Things to consider with eBay (any mail order)
are is the P&P and comission really worth it for
second hand parts that are likely to be in a breakers'?

GPZ550s aren't exactly a rarity (albeit levers
are often damaged when the things blow over
in the wind and so on).

Your log book may indicate it is an import, or
it could be linked to the engine number, or it
could just be Kawasaki eccentricity--as various
other models aren't on the log book what they
say they are on the Decals.

But yes the GPZs were considered a "sports"
(rather than track or race) bike.

> T i m
>
> p.s. Is this going to feel like a 900 Divvy to ride (the only other 4
> I've ridden .. oh other than a CBR600 track bike for a few miles and
> that was mad)? :-(

Dunno. Probably not. I prefer Suzuki cams to
any other Jap. I always found Yammies a bit
sluggish too. Kawasakis tend to be good high
revvers when you've re-run it in (just take it
gently for the first 1500-3000 miles).

Don't be too worried if the gearbox (as opposed
to the clutch) is a bit clunky to start with as the
cogs will move about a little. I found a bit like
cars/vand/trucks that it's possible to improve the
meshing by being careful about changes.

Also, do remember Kawasaki's pedigree in the
snowmobile and jetski sectors before you start
to worry too much about a bit of rain - or even
150 miles of persistent downpour.

Bit minimalist here on the expert guidance though
as a first impression.

Maybe more people ought to get speech to text.

I have a high WPM, unless you (all) do too it
probably takes me less time to type this than
it would take you to think it. So, yes, I have plenty
of time to enjoy my life as well. In fact, I'm off for
a spin now.

G DAEB
COPYRIGHT (C) 2008 SIPSTON
--

On Wed, 27 Aug 2008 05:07:29 -0700 (PDT), FCS
 wrote:

>Ah, one thing I read somewhere recently but
>which really threw me my first time on a 4
>is there just isn't any engine braking, hardly.

Excellent. I thought you'd given up on us. Glad to see you're still at
least making an effort.

Really cheered me up, that has. If only I could believe that it was an
intentional joke.

-- 
  _______
.'_/_|_\_'.  Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\  |  /`/  
 `\\ | //'   BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
   `\|/`
     `

FCS wrote:
< snip >

He's a loony; but, he's a happy loony.

-- 
Eddie                                                eddie@deguello.org

His: ZX-9R, Elefant 900                   http://www.last.fm/group/ukrm
Hers: Monster S4R, GSX600F (breaking, everything must go!)

FCS  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles ..
> 
> On Aug 25, 6:45 pm, T i m  wrote:
> > Hi all,
> >
> > Well, I seem to have my very first 4, running in the garden! ;-)
> >
> 
> Ah, one thing I read somewhere recently but
> which really threw me my first time on a 4
> is there just isn't any engine braking, hardly.

As it obviously isn't cylinders you're talking about, 4 wheels? 4 valves? 4 
litres? 4 brain cells?



-- 
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity

Eddie wrote:

> FCS wrote:
> < snip >
> 
> He's a loony; but, he's a happy loony.

He's like a low rent Auvache.

And Steve isn't exactly high cost in the first place.

We were somewhere around Barstow, on the edge of the desert, when the
drugs began to take hold. I remember FCS 
saying something like:

>OE should always be used, despite you could
>take an impression of the existing brake lever
>with a large supermarket cob or wodge of papier
>mache then fashion one from araldite..

"             "


>At first sight they are identical but ISTR, as it was a dealer
>I knew, that Suzukis you prime every time you start them

"             "


-- 
Dave
GS850x2 XS650 SE6a

"It's a moron working with power tools.
 How much more suspenseful can you get?"
 - House

On 27 Aug, 13:01, FCS  wrote:

<Megasnip>

It has to be said: you know fuck all.

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 05:19:44 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
 wrote:
 
>On 27 Aug, 13:01, FCS  wrote:
>
><Megasnip>
>
>It has to be said: you know fuck all.

No it doesn't - it's plainly obvious.

-- 
  _______
.'_/_|_\_'.  Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\  |  /`/  
 `\\ | //'   BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
   `\|/`
     `

Ace wrote:

> > You choose.  Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front
> > forks on the Kawasaki.  The GT doesn't have anti dive though
> 
> The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
> it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.

I realise that, it's the same system on the Turbo (although the Turbo
doesn't have air assistance - IIRC) but the anti-dive may have an impact
on the air pressure setting.


> And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
> had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
> overall handling.

It works on mine - but, as you say, has no real effect.

-- 
Simon

frag wrote:

> > I can understand how it could be a problem if you have a stuck float
> > valve (and the fuel runs past it even when the engine isn't running)
> > but not if left on when running normally Frag?
> 
> Nope, ignore that, me getting my chokes and primes mixed up.

...and tickles.

-- 
Simon

On 29 Aug 2008 07:06:07 GMT, "sweller" 
wrote:

>Ace wrote:
>
>> > You choose.  Personally, I don't bother about the air in the front
>> > forks on the Kawasaki.  The GT doesn't have anti dive though
>> 
>> The GPz's anti-dive is in no way related to the air in the forks, as
>> it's a hydraulic take-off running off the brake hose.
>
>I realise that, it's the same system on the Turbo (although the Turbo
>doesn't have air assistance - IIRC) but the anti-dive may have an impact
>on the air pressure setting.
>
>
>> And was a complete waste of time in any case. Not sure if it had ever
>> had any effect, but on the one I had it certainly didn't add to the
>> overall handling.
>
>It works on mine - but, as you say, has no real effect.

Ok, so if it 'can work' (even if ineffectual on the road) I'll check
it the best I can but leave it alone for the moment / MOT.

I want to do the minimum on / to this bike but anything bad I see /
find I will have to at least make safe or work reasonably.

Like the rear brake system so far. The caliper itself seems fine but
the piston has a few rust pits on it. I cleaned it all, lubed it well,
fitted new pads and assuming it doesn't leak will leave it like that
for a short while, replacing the piston with a stainless one and new
seals as soon as I decide I like the bike and it all runs properly.

Similar with the rear master cylinder and brake mech in general. It
was all one corroded blob and after a bit of time in my workshop is
all starting to run more as it should again. Small parts I will
probably change anyway (if they are cheap), like seals and spring
clips etc) but hoses and rubber boots can all add up and a waste of
money if they are actually working (even if not perfect).

Once stripped, cleaned, rebuilt and working properly, it should all
function as it should. If I decide to keep it then I'll probably give
it a phase two makeover at a later date.

All the best ..

T i m

p.s. One thing I think I would like to do is fit higher and slightly
wider 'real'  bars and possibly turn it into a fully naked bike.

On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:21:35 +0200, Ace  wrote:

>On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 05:19:44 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
> wrote:
> 
>>On 27 Aug, 13:01, FCS  wrote:
>>
>><Megasnip>
>>
>>It has to be said: you know fuck all.
>
>No it doesn't - it's plainly obvious.

Where the fuck did this loon come from? I've had a week away and all
of a sudden there's another idiot appeared and it's only a matter of
days before he and Des form another anti-clique.

On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 18:00:09 +0200, Andy Bonwick
 wrote:

>On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:21:35 +0200, Ace  wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 05:19:44 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
>> wrote:
>> 
>>>On 27 Aug, 13:01, FCS  wrote:
>>>
>>><Megasnip>
>>>
>>>It has to be said: you know fuck all.
>>
>>No it doesn't - it's plainly obvious.
>
>Where the fuck did this loon come from? I've had a week away and all
>of a sudden there's another idiot appeared and it's only a matter of
>days before he and Des form another anti-clique.

Eh?  TOG's been here for fucking years.

On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 18:00:09 +0200, Andy Bonwick
 wrote:
 
>On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 14:21:35 +0200, Ace  wrote:
>
>>On Thu, 28 Aug 2008 05:19:44 -0700 (PDT), "TOG@Toil"
>> wrote:
>> 
>>>On 27 Aug, 13:01, FCS  wrote:
>>>
>>><Megasnip>
>>>
>>>It has to be said: you know fuck all.
>>
>>No it doesn't - it's plainly obvious.
>
>Where the fuck did this loon come from? I've had a week away and all
>of a sudden there's another idiot appeared and it's only a matter of
>days before he and Des form another anti-clique.

Heh. I think even Des has higher standards... actually, no, it'd be
the other way round if anything.

-- 
  _______
.'_/_|_\_'.  Ace (b.rogers at ifrance.com)
\`\  |  /`/  
 `\\ | //'   BOTAFOT#3, SbS#2, UKRMMA#13, DFV#8, SKA#2, IBB#10
   `\|/`
     `

deadmail@burnt.org.uk  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles 
..
> 
> On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 18:00:09 +0200, Andy Bonwick
>  wrote:
> 
> >Where the fuck did this loon come from? I've had a week away and all
> >of a sudden there's another idiot appeared and it's only a matter of
> >days before he and Des form another anti-clique.
> 
> Eh?  TOG's been here for fucking years.

He meant FCS I think.

-- 
frag
Microplanet Gravity Beta version : http://www.ukrm.co.uk/gravity

On Sun, 31 Aug 2008 14:07:38 +0100, frag  wrote:

>deadmail@burnt.org.uk  wrote in uk.rec.motorcycles 
>..
>> 
>> On Sat, 30 Aug 2008 18:00:09 +0200, Andy Bonwick
>>  wrote:
>> 
>> >Where the fuck did this loon come from? I've had a week away and all
>> >of a sudden there's another idiot appeared and it's only a matter of
>> >days before he and Des form another anti-clique.
>> 
>> Eh?  TOG's been here for fucking years.
>
>He meant FCS I think.

He did.