I'm new to cycling. Well, it would be more accurate to say - I'm new to 
cycling regularly.

I cycle to college where I teach twice a week and want to not have to 
"wuss out" when it's raining, just because I'll get wet.

What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given that I 
can change my clothing when I arrive?

TIA,
Tim

On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 06:48:09 GMT, Tim <reducestress+spam@gmail.com>
wrote:

>I'm new to cycling. Well, it would be more accurate to say - I'm new to 
>cycling regularly.
>
>I cycle to college where I teach twice a week and want to not have to 
>"wuss out" when it's raining, just because I'll get wet.
>
>What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given that I 
>can change my clothing when I arrive?

Shorts and t-shirt, or cape, waterproof trousers and overshoes

Tom Crispin wrote:
> On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 06:48:09 GMT, Tim <reducestress+spam@gmail.com>
> wrote:
> 
>> I'm new to cycling. Well, it would be more accurate to say - I'm new to 
>> cycling regularly.
>>
>> I cycle to college where I teach twice a week and want to not have to 
>> "wuss out" when it's raining, just because I'll get wet.
>>
>> What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given that I 
>> can change my clothing when I arrive?
> 
> Shorts and t-shirt, or cape, waterproof trousers and overshoes

Tom's answer illustrates well that "best" has different values, though
there are also occasions when something in between the two extremes
noted is beneficial.

For real teaming down stair-rods it's the All Or Nothing approach Tom
gives: on a warm summer's day you might as well get wet, if it's colder
that is remarkably unpleasant and it's in to the Battle Gear.  But most
rain falls somewhere between, and a showerproof ("soft shell") approach
will keep drizzle and light rain at bay while being breathable enough
that you won't stew in your own juices.

There are times when you'll need full waterproofs to cycle and stay at
all comfy: look for a dedicated cycling jacket for best results, the cut
is usually better suited than a walking jacket and they tend to be
lighter.  Add in over-trousers for full protection, and either
over-shoes or a change of shoes with waterproof socks.

A light wind-top will usually see off the worst of rain and even if a
bit gets through is often more comfy than a full-on waterproof.  Pertex
tops and similar are popular.  Skin-tight(ish) stretch legwear (not
necessarily lycra, Ronhill Bikesters are deservedly popular) often dries
out almost as fast as it gets wet in drizzle and driech which many find
preferable to wearing overtrousers.  If you don't fancy that then a pair
of trousers that dry fast once you're off the bike can mean that even if
you're soaked to the skin on arrival, you'll have dry legs/trousers in
10 minutes in a heated building.  I wear Rohan Bags for work and they
have that property, they're now available in an "Epic" version with a
silicone encapsulation waterproofing treatment so they'll not get that
wet, you'll stay mostly dry, and they're smart enough for a lot of work
places.

HTH, Pete.
-- 
Peter Clinch                    Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637   Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177              Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk     http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

Quoting  Tim  <reducestress+spam@gmail.com>:
>What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given that I 
>can change my clothing when I arrive?

If it's warm, you're going to get wet from the inside whether or not you
get wet from the outside. The only consideration is waterproof booties if
you cycle in street shoes - you don't want wet shoes all day.

If it's cold, I personally prefer a cape, booties, and to give up on the
area between knee and boot-top, which gets wet no matter what. A cape is
no use without mudguards, though.
-- 
David Damerell  Kill the tomato!
Today is Second Thursday, August.

On 2 Sep, 09:12, David Damerell 
wrote:
> If it's warm, you're going to get wet from the inside whether or not you
> get wet from the outside. The only consideration is waterproof booties if
> you cycle in street shoes - you don't want wet shoes all day.

Booties help with splashes from puddles, and I'm a fan of them, but
unless you wear overtrousers the rain runs down your legs and you get
soggy socks anyway.  But overtrousers are horrible unless it is proper
cold or just a short journey.

"Tim" <reducestress+spam@gmail.com> wrote in message 
news:Jk5vk.232098$D01.78355@newsfe17.ams2...
> I'm new to cycling. Well, it would be more accurate to say - I'm new to
> cycling regularly.
>
> I cycle to college where I teach twice a week and want to not have to
> "wuss out" when it's raining, just because I'll get wet.
>
> What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given that I
> can change my clothing when I arrive?

At least part of the answer depends on how far it is, and how hard you ride 
it.

I'll go into town in the wet in normal polycotton trousers and a cag - the 
trousers will dry quickly, the cag covers the rest. But my tshirt would 
become a sweaty mess if I tried to go further.

cheers,
clive

On Tue, 02 Sep 2008 06:48:09 GMT
Tim <reducestress+spam@gmail.com> wrote:

> I'm new to cycling. Well, it would be more accurate to say - I'm new
> to cycling regularly.
> 
> I cycle to college where I teach twice a week and want to not have to 
> "wuss out" when it's raining, just because I'll get wet.
> 
> What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given
> that I can change my clothing when I arrive?

If it's warm (UK summer), just get wet and enjoy it.

If it's intermediate, wear a track suit.  Comfy when wet.

If it's a bit colder (UK winter), add waterproof shell and
fleece to taste.

If it's seriously cold, wimp out (unless you have just a trivial 
[sub]urban commute).  Icy roads are not nice on two wheels.

-- 
not me guv

Nick Kew wrote:

> If it's seriously cold, wimp out (unless you have just a trivial 
> [sub]urban commute).  Icy roads are not nice on two wheels.

So get a trike!

Pete.
-- 
Peter Clinch                    Medical Physics IT Officer
Tel 44 1382 660111 ext. 33637   Univ. of Dundee, Ninewells Hospital
Fax 44 1382 640177              Dundee DD1 9SY Scotland UK
net p.j.clinch@dundee.ac.uk     http://www.dundee.ac.uk/~pjclinch/

Peter Clinch wrote:
> Nick Kew wrote:
> 
>> If it's seriously cold, wimp out (unless you have just a trivial 
>> [sub]urban commute).  Icy roads are not nice on two wheels.
> 
> So get a trike!

indeedy!

   BugBear

Tim wrote:
> I'm new to cycling. Well, it would be more accurate to say - I'm new
> to cycling regularly.
>
> I cycle to college where I teach twice a week and want to not have to
> "wuss out" when it's raining, just because I'll get wet.
>
> What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given
> that I can change my clothing when I arrive?

Get a waterproof cycling jacket first of all.  Wet legs is no big deal, but
cycling with a wet back and sholders is miserable when the weather is less
than warm.

Your shoes may not get completely soaked if they are substantial enough and
the distance short enough.  Otherwise consider overshoes as well if the
shoes aren't too bulky.

A decent local bike shop should have some good clothing.  Otherwise try
online stores such as Chain Reaction and Wiggle

~PB

Pete Biggs wrote:
> Tim wrote:
>> I'm new to cycling. Well, it would be more accurate to say - I'm new
>> to cycling regularly.
>>
>> I cycle to college where I teach twice a week and want to not have to
>> "wuss out" when it's raining, just because I'll get wet.
>>
>> What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given
>> that I can change my clothing when I arrive?
> 
> Get a waterproof cycling jacket first of all.  Wet legs is no big deal, but
> cycling with a wet back and sholders is miserable when the weather is less
> than warm.


There are many jackets to choose from, but to get you started looking, I 
can happily recommend this one:- 
http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/Gill_Freedom_Waterproof_Jacket/5360030695/

-- 
Brian G
www.wetwo.co.uk

Brian G wrote:

> There are many jackets to choose from, but to get you started
> looking, I can happily recommend this one:-
> http://www.wiggle.co.uk/p/Cycle/7/Gill_Freedom_Waterproof_Jacket/5360030695/

That looks very good for that type of thing.

If something cheaper or more compact is required, though, I suggest Lusso 
Aquacape*, or similar from another make.

* Actually a jacket rather than a cape.

~PB

Thanks to all who responded. I have plenty to go on now!

Cheers,
Tim

Tim wrote:
> Thanks to all who responded. I have plenty to go on now!

I don't know if anyone else mentioned, but in cold wet weather a decent 
set of waterproof gloves is a must for me. They should be used in 
conjunction with with a water proof jacket, with the gloves on the 
inside of the jacket sleeves.

On Sep 2, 6:07 am, Nick Kew  wrote:

> If it's seriously cold, wimp out (unless you have just a trivial
> [sub]urban commute).  Icy roads are not nice on two wheels.

Studded tires.

John Kane Kingston ON Canada

On 02 Sep 2008 09:12:39 +0100 (BST)
David Damerell  wrote:

> If it's cold, I personally prefer a cape, booties, and to give up on
> the area between knee and boot-top, which gets wet no matter what.

Over-knee spats or chaps-style leggings will keep your knees and shins
pretty dry without creating much of a heat/perspiration problem.

On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 12:25:45 +0200
"Pete Biggs"  wrote:

>  Wet legs is no big deal

You reckon?  Maybe so if you're wearing synthetic trousers/leggings
that keep you warm while not impeding pedalling or holding too much
water, but chilled legs or trousers that stick to them and don't
stretch can be deeply unpleasant if it's cold and wet.

Rob Morley wrote:
> On Tue, 2 Sep 2008 12:25:45 +0200
> "Pete Biggs"  wrote:
>
>>  Wet legs is no big deal
>
> You reckon?  Maybe so if you're wearing synthetic trousers/leggings
> that keep you warm while not impeding pedalling or holding too much
> water, but chilled legs or trousers that stick to them and don't
> stretch can be deeply unpleasant if it's cold and wet.

Wet trousers can be unpleasant, but it's not too much of a big deal when 
it's not toooo cold and you can change trousers at your destination.  A wet 
and cold upper body is more likely to make the ride intolerable or even 
dangerous, so the jacket should be the priority.

I would recommend synthetic trousers or leggings anyway.

There's an interesting product called Rainlegs to check out, too.  They help 
quite a bit, though with all the straps, etc, they make you look like some 
kind of bondage freak.

    http://www.rainlegs.co.uk/

~PB

On 2 Sep, 07:48, Tim  wrote:
> I'm new to cycling. Well, it would be more accurate to say - I'm new to
> cycling regularly.
>
> I cycle to college where I teach twice a week and want to not have to
> "wuss out" when it's raining, just because I'll get wet.
>
> What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given that I
> can change my clothing when I arrive?
>
> TIA,
> Tim

I cycle 4 miles each way to work; 15 mins.

Winter
Cycle shorts, thin overtrousers like track suit bottoms, t-shirt,
waterproof jacket (from Aldi - £9 and has lasted 3 years), gloves or
gloves plus liners, Shimano mountain bike boots (spd), cheap cycling
sunglasses, mudguards.

Summer
Cycle shorts, long or short sleeve cycle top, open gloves, Shimano
mountain bike boots (spd), cheap cycling sunglasses, mudguards.

Shimano sell a road spd boot but the cleats stand proud of the sole
making walking difficult. The M version (mountain bike version) has
the cleats above the treads and are easy to walk in etc.

If you get on your bike and you feel warm you have too much clothing.
I usually feel quite cool until 5 mins into the ride and arrive not
very sweaty.

The cheap cycling sunglasses stop my eyes watering in the wind ( I go
really fast!!!), stop raining getting in and stones from cars hitting
my eyes.

I can change at work and if I do get wet the clothing/boots are
usually dry by the homeward trip i.e. I do not worry about getting wet
and it doesn't happen that often anyway, even up here in the W.
Midlands.

I bought overboots but found they were a feel faff to get on and off
so bought the boots which keep me warm and dryish. Also bought a
winter top which is to thick and makes me too hot.

If you ride fast wear as above. If you ride slow you may need thicker
clothing.

"John Kane"  wrote in message 
news:84f3593e-0715-47dc-b93e-89182fc5622f@25g2000hsx.googlegroups.com...
On Sep 2, 6:07 am, Nick Kew  wrote:

>> If it's seriously cold, wimp out (unless you have just a trivial
>> [sub]urban commute). Icy roads are not nice on two wheels.

>Studded tires.

>John Kane Kingston ON Canada

Fine if you live in an area with long periods of snow and ice throughout the 
winter. Less ideal in the UK where it is rare for it to be icy for very long 
and it can go from being sub zero to being +5-10C in the course of 24 hours. 
It then becomes a real chore to keep switching the tyres.

How well do studded tyres perform on ordinary tarmac? Ice in the UK tends to 
be patchy and localised in all but the coldest winter days*.

*I am referring to general UK commuting conditions here. I am aware that 
places like the Scottish Highlands have somewhat harsher winters.

John Kane  wrote:

> On Sep 2, 6:07 am, Nick Kew  wrote:
> 
> > If it's seriously cold, wimp out (unless you have just a trivial
> > [sub]urban commute).  Icy roads are not nice on two wheels.
> 
> Studded tires.
> 
> John Kane Kingston ON Canada

i'm serously tempted by them for no good reason...

roger
-- 
www.rogermerriman.com

In article <1impgp6.1utl85p1ov91h4N%NEWS@wodger.demon.co.uk>,
 NEWS@wodger.demon.co.uk (Roger Merriman) wrote:

> John Kane  wrote:
> 
> > On Sep 2, 6:07 am, Nick Kew  wrote:
> > 
> > > If it's seriously cold, wimp out (unless you have just a trivial
> > > [sub]urban commute).  Icy roads are not nice on two wheels.
> > 
> > Studded tires.
> > 
> > John Kane Kingston ON Canada
> 
> i'm serously tempted by them for no good reason...
> 
> roger

Oh no :(

-- 
Sara

The teeth are free at last! Fly free, young teethies!

> > On Sep 2, 6:07 am, Nick Kew  wrote:
> > 
> > > If it's seriously cold, wimp out (unless you have just a trivial
> > > [sub]urban commute).  Icy roads are not nice on two wheels.
> > 
> > Studded tires.
> > 
> > John Kane Kingston ON Canada

> i'm serously tempted by them for no good reason...

> roger

Studded tyres are great in snow & ice, I have used them over two winters
in middle Norway, in "white" winters. 
The last two winters, I was in SW Norway where winters near the coast
are like Scottish conditions.  I finally settled on having a spare front
wheel with a wide studded tyre. I only put the studded wheel on on the
rare icy days. 

-- 
Hbunnet :                          (replace "nospam" with "athome" to reply)
_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/_/

"Roger Merriman"  wrote

[snip]
>> Studded tires.
>>
>> John Kane Kingston ON Canada
>
> i'm serously tempted by them for no good reason...
>
> roger

If you really want them, it's possible to make them yourself.  Just 
(so I am  told) stick a whole lot of drawing pins through your 
tyres - points outward I imagine works best - and cut the pins to 
make suitably short studs

Jeremy Parker

On Sat, 6 Sep 2008 20:30:08 +0100
"Jeremy Parker"  wrote:

> If you really want them, it's possible to make them yourself.  Just 
> (so I am  told) stick a whole lot of drawing pins through your 
> tyres - points outward I imagine works best - and cut the pins to 
> make suitably short studs
> 
The decent ones have tungsten carbide studs, I can't imagine
drawing pins lasting more than a few miles or a few hard applications
of the brakes.

In article <20080907195628.55bf58f4@bluemoon>, Rob Morley wrote:
>On Sat, 6 Sep 2008 20:30:08 +0100
>"Jeremy Parker"  wrote:
>
>> If you really want them, it's possible to make them yourself.  Just 
>> (so I am  told) stick a whole lot of drawing pins through your 
>> tyres - points outward I imagine works best - and cut the pins to 
>> make suitably short studs
>> 
>The decent ones have tungsten carbide studs, I can't imagine
>drawing pins lasting more than a few miles or a few hard applications
>of the brakes.

Screws rather than drawing pins. I'm sure they won't last as long as 
tungsten carbide, but how many miles does the average UK cyclist do
on ice? (On the other hand, making them looks a lot of work if you
aren't going to use them much.)

http://www.icebike.org/Equipment/tires.htm
http://www.wikihow.com/Convert-Bicycle-Tires-Into-Studded-Snow-Tires
http://www.momentumplanet.ca/components/diy-winterizing-studded-tires
http://kc-bike.blogspot.com/2007/12/tricks-of-trade-make-your-own-studded.html
http://www.silentsports.net/stud_your_own_bike_tires.html

On 07 Sep 2008 21:50:14 +0100 (BST)
armb@chiark.greenend.org.uk (Alan Braggins) wrote:

> In article <20080907195628.55bf58f4@bluemoon>, Rob Morley wrote:
> >On Sat, 6 Sep 2008 20:30:08 +0100
> >"Jeremy Parker"  wrote:
> >
> >> If you really want them, it's possible to make them yourself.
> >> Just (so I am  told) stick a whole lot of drawing pins through
> >> your tyres - points outward I imagine works best - and cut the
> >> pins to make suitably short studs
> >> 
> >The decent ones have tungsten carbide studs, I can't imagine
> >drawing pins lasting more than a few miles or a few hard applications
> >of the brakes.
> 
> Screws rather than drawing pins.

Self-tappers are pretty hard, but you have to fit them in a way that
they don't wreck the tyre carcass or the tube.

> I'm sure they won't last as long as 
> tungsten carbide, but how many miles does the average UK cyclist do
> on ice?

It's not the miles on ice, it's the miles of wear not riding on ice
(between the few yards of ice that make the studs worthwhile).

On 07 Sep 2008 21:50:14 +0100 (BST), armb@chiark.greenend.org.uk (Alan
Braggins) wrote:

<snip>

Hello Bilbo - any chance of explaining why you use "Organization:
University of Cambridge, England" in your header?

What do you do there?


--   

I encourage my children to wear helmets. (Guy Chapman)
Some evidence shows that helmeted cyclists are more likely to hit
their  heads. (Guy Chapman)
I have never said that I encourage my children to wear helmets. (Guy 
Chapman) - proven to be an outright lie.

Hbunnet  wrote:

> > > On Sep 2, 6:07 am, Nick Kew  wrote:
> > > 
> > > > If it's seriously cold, wimp out (unless you have just a trivial
> > > > [sub]urban commute).  Icy roads are not nice on two wheels.
> > > 
> > > Studded tires.
> > > 
> > > John Kane Kingston ON Canada
> 
> > i'm serously tempted by them for no good reason...
> 
> > roger
> 
> Studded tyres are great in snow & ice, I have used them over two winters
> in middle Norway, in "white" winters. 
> The last two winters, I was in SW Norway where winters near the coast
> are like Scottish conditions.  I finally settled on having a spare front
> wheel with a wide studded tyre. I only put the studded wheel on on the
> rare icy days. 

as i'm now in the londonish area, i think my need for them is none
existant but still sound a hoot. might get some for the old MTB.

roger
-- 
www.rogermerriman.com

Rob Morley  wrote:

> On Sat, 6 Sep 2008 20:30:08 +0100
> "Jeremy Parker"  wrote:
> 
> > If you really want them, it's possible to make them yourself.  Just
> > (so I am  told) stick a whole lot of drawing pins through your 
> > tyres - points outward I imagine works best - and cut the pins to 
> > make suitably short studs
> > 
> The decent ones have tungsten carbide studs, I can't imagine
> drawing pins lasting more than a few miles or a few hard applications
> of the brakes.

i think some some of the tires are made so the studs only engage at
lower PSI etc.

roger
-- 
www.rogermerriman.com

Pete Biggs wrote:
> Tim wrote:
>> What's the best choice of clothing when it's pissing down - given
>> that I can change my clothing when I arrive?
> 
> Get a waterproof cycling jacket first of all.  Wet legs is no big deal, but
> cycling with a wet back and sholders is miserable when the weather is less
> than warm.

If you wear glasses, a hat with a peak (e.g. baseball cap) keeps the 
rain off them so you can see.

> Your shoes may not get completely soaked if they are substantial enough and
> the distance short enough.  Otherwise consider overshoes as well if the
> shoes aren't too bulky.

What's splashed up from a wet road very often seems to produce indelible 
stains. So don't cycle in the rain in shoes or trousers you want to keep 
smart.

Colin McKenzie

-- 
No-one has ever proved that cycle helmets make cycling any safer at the 
population level, and anyway cycling is about as safe per mile as walking.
Make an informed choice - visit www.cyclehelmets.org.