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date: Sun, 27 May 2007 13:51:19 +0100,    group: uk.rec.climbing        back       
Idea or not a good Idea?   
I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of my 
house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use. There is 
allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted attic 
space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and nylon rope 
for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in 
artificial climb walls.
Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas, 
information or advice on this matter
MBS
date: Sun, 27 May 2007 13:51:19 +0100   author:   MrBlueSkye apbz91@noSpam dsl.pipex.com

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
MrBlueSkye wrote:

> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.

Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
moment...

If you're looking at protecting a single line, then you shouldn't hang
everything on one bolt.  Better to use two and equalise them with a belay
chain.  See halfway down this page:
http://www.bendcrete.com/fixings.htm

If you were setting up a commercial wall (and you should aim for the same
standard - especially if peoples children other than your own will use
this), your anchors would need to meet the standards of BS-EN795.  British
standards are outrageously expensive to buy, but you can get a look at it
via your local library.  The bottom line is that your anchor should be able
to support a ton and a half for three minutes without failing (I think -
but I could be wrong).

You can't just use any old rope, you'll need a dynamic climbing 'single'
rope.  Its available by the metre from lots of places and isn't expensive. 
It shouldn't be left exposed to the elements when you're not using your
wall, but should be stored somewhere cool, dry and free from chemical
contamination, mice etc.  You could keep a bit of nylon rope or just about
anything else threaded through the anchor to use to thread the climbing
rope each time you want to use it.

If you have a decent commercial climbing wall within any kind of reasonable
distance, it will almost certainly make more sense to take your sons there,
and while you're at it you may as well give it a go yourself.  Even if you
don't, you should spend a bit of time at a wall before you attempt to build
your own.

Best of luck.
Sean
x


> There is 
> allready installed a steel balcony and door leading into the converted
> attic space. So I'm thinking a resin anchor fixed eyebolt, pulley and
> nylon rope
> for a safety line and acquiring some of those handholds that  are used  in
> artificial climb walls.
> Knowing absolutely nothing about climbing I would appreciate any ideas,
> information or advice on this matter
> MBS
date: Sat, 02 Jun 2007 04:33:49 +0100   author:   Sean

Re: Idea or not a good Idea?   
"Sean"  wrote in message 
news:f3qoen$r4o$1@news.freedom2surf.net...
> MrBlueSkye wrote:
>
>> I've been thinking about making a climbing face on the gable end wall of
>> my house for my 2 sons (aged 21 and 14)  and their friends to use.
>
> Probably not a good idea without a lot more knowledge than you have at the
> moment...

<snip very sound advice from Sean>

....to which I would just add that unless you or someone is prepared to move 
the holds around quite frequently, the route(s) will become very boring. 
Route-setting is an art (ask anyone at a professional wall what they think 
of the route-setters), and unless you are an experienced indoor climber 
yourself, it's unlikely that you will be able to make routes of the 
appropriate standard and sustained interest just by good luck.

A major advantage of going to a 'proper' wall is that you meet other 
climbers, and can improve your technique and safety in a benign atmosphere.

HTH,

Steve P
date: Sat, 2 Jun 2007 13:46:25 +0100   author:   Steve Pardoe

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