I don't suppose anyone has a fitting manual for a STAYMOUNT STABILISER have 
they? I've bought one that's been used and now haven't a clue how to fit 
it!!!

"ME&YOU"  wrote in message 
news:6pednY0__vedXunVnZ2dnUVZ8q2dnZ2d@posted.plusnet...
>I don't suppose anyone has a fitting manual for a STAYMOUNT STABILISER have 
>they? I've bought one that's been used and now haven't a clue how to fit 
>it!!!
>
I may still have the fitting instructions for my old Staymount stabiliser 
somewhere, but probably in the caravan and won't be going there  for a few 
days. However, despite the curly spring, the Staymount isn't really any 
different from other bar type stabilisers and if you follow the fitting 
instructions for one of them, you won't go far wrong. There's probably a few 
sets knocking around on the net, but here's one for the Bulldog 
www.saundersonsecurity.co.uk/acatalog/100Q_Inst.pdf

If you've got any specific problem with the Staymount, just ask and I'll try 
to help. The Staymount didn't have the quick release as standard, so you 
just struggle to lift it into place, but the guy at the Stabiliser Clinic 
modified mine a few years ago and fitted a quick release for the pressure 
adjustment. A really useful mod, but I don't know if he's still in business. 
It will be worth dismantling the stabiliser before you fit it, clean it up 
and check the state of the friction pads. Spares for the Staymount will be 
hard to come by, but you should be able to find suitable friction discs at 
your local caravan dealer.

John Miller

ME&YOU formulated on Wednesday :
> I don't suppose anyone has a fitting manual for a STAYMOUNT STABILISER have 
> they? I've bought one that's been used and now haven't a clue how to fit 
> it!!!

It is all fairly obvious. The tow ball bracket clamps behind the 
towball, so the tongue of the spring can slot in just below the ball. 
An R clip then pins the tongue in place. The loop of the spring, if it 
is not obvious should be below the horizontal section of spring, such 
that the horizontal points slightly down. The unit can be fitted to 
either the offside, or nearside. You will need some good spanners to 
get the towball off and refit it - those bolts need to be really tight.

With the caravan hooked up you need to work out the mounting position 
for the A frame (L) bracket. The fore and aft position of the L bracket 
needs to take into account the extreme turn where the corner of your 
caravan is on the point of touching the car and the spring at full 
extension. Allow an extra couple of inches so there is no possibility 
of the end of the U in the spring pulling on the L bracket.

The height of the L bracket should be set such that you have to really 
heave on the end of the spring to lift it onto the bracket, lifting the 
rear of the car up in the process. You might find it easier to get this 
height by trial and error lifting the end of the spring up onto an 
adjustable pile of wood blocks.

Some A frames (Alko) should not be drilled to fit the L bracket. For 
these you are supposed to clamp the L bracket onto the A frame.

I found that inserting the springs tongue into its socket often clashes 
with the electrical sockets so I changed the steel bracket for these 
for a home made plastic one, which allows them to be pushed out of the 
way.

The friction joint surfaces may need to be checked, cleaned up and the 
tension reset. Pressing on the end of the spring should require around 
50lb to 70lb of sideways pressure before it moves. You can check this 
figure with a pair of scales, adjust it by tightening the centre bolt.

Lifting the spring onto the L bracket is a bit of a back breaker. They 
originally came with a bar to fit on the end of the spring to provide 
some extra leverage. Mine was lost, so after struggling a few times 
without it I made one. A 12" length of steel 20mm electrical conduit, 
with a flat bit of steel welded at the end, like a T. Arms of the T 
hook onto the spring. As someone else suggested - you used to be able 
to get a modification which released the tension at the friction joint, 
which also released the tension of the spring.

The L bracket for the A frame should be fitted with a nylon block, 
which looks like a W edge on and this should be able to pivot on its 
bolt.

They are quite a good design, not only helping with the stability, but
taking lots of the weight off the rear springs.



-- 
Regards,
        Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk