A bit of advice required, if possible.
I have an old bailey senator 6000, which uses a shurflo pump for the water.
As yet, no proper diagnosis has been possible, besides checking the fuses 
(there maybe more that I don't know about?!), I will have a go with a 
multimeter before doing anything drastic, My water has suddenly stopped 
pumping, was OK a month or so ago when we went away for the weekend, now 
caravan needed for work, and I have no pumped water, which is a shame as I 
really like showering.

The question i need to ask is, if I find I have no voltage to the pump, is 
there any reason why I can't just give the pump a new switched 12v feed from 
the fusebox/battery? I could place an inline fuse along the way, though I 
don't know what ampage, 15? I'm assuming that the pump senses pressure, and 
only works when the pressure drops, so it should work?
Another question, anyone with the same/similar van know of any fuses besides 
the ones under the bed near the pump?

Thank You

Tony

tony h wrote:

> A bit of advice required, if possible.
> I have an old bailey senator 6000, which uses a shurflo pump for the water.
> As yet, no proper diagnosis has been possible, besides checking the fuses 
> (there maybe more that I don't know about?!), I will have a go with a 
> multimeter before doing anything drastic, My water has suddenly stopped 
> pumping, was OK a month or so ago when we went away for the weekend, now 
> caravan needed for work, and I have no pumped water, which is a shame as I 
> really like showering.
> 
> The question i need to ask is, if I find I have no voltage to the pump, is 
> there any reason why I can't just give the pump a new switched 12v feed from 
> the fusebox/battery? I could place an inline fuse along the way, though I 
> don't know what ampage, 15? I'm assuming that the pump senses pressure, and 
> only works when the pressure drops, so it should work?
> Another question, anyone with the same/similar van know of any fuses besides 
> the ones under the bed near the pump?
> 
> Thank You
> 
> Tony

'The pump has stopped pumping' - is the motor running or not?

If there is no voltage at the motor, before you go delving elsewhere, 
check the motor for continuity and function (feed direct to motor). Be 
aware of the possibility of a disconnected return (earth/ground) 
connection. Once you know that the motor runs you can start 
investigating the control side.

Dougal wrote:
>
> 'The pump has stopped pumping' - is the motor running or not?
>
> If there is no voltage at the motor, before you go delving elsewhere,
> check the motor for continuity and function (feed direct to motor). Be
> aware of the possibility of a disconnected return (earth/ground)
> connection. Once you know that the motor runs you can start
> investigating the control side.

the motor is not running, i will be able to test voltage to the motor, and 
function, next week, but as the caravan is not near home I need to be 
prepared for a 'quick fix'. Ideally once I have a meter on the job I'll spot 
a break or similar, testing the pump motor function is easy enough, I can 
easily remove and shove straight onto the battery. My main concern is being 
sure I have everything I need to get something working when I get there, 
ideally without spending money on things i may not need, and also working 
within the constraints of limited luggage, so I can't take lots of tools. 
Hopefully I can fix things properly, but if I can't, am I correct that just 
supplying a voltage to the motor should allow everything to work? does the 
motor sense a pressure build up and stop pumping, or does another component 
elsewhere switch the voltage to the motor?

tony h said the following on 10/05/2008 22:18:
> Dougal wrote:
>> 'The pump has stopped pumping' - is the motor running or not?
>>
>> If there is no voltage at the motor, before you go delving elsewhere,
>> check the motor for continuity and function (feed direct to motor). Be
>> aware of the possibility of a disconnected return (earth/ground)
>> connection. Once you know that the motor runs you can start
>> investigating the control side.
> 
> the motor is not running, i will be able to test voltage to the motor, and 
> function, next week, but as the caravan is not near home I need to be 
> prepared for a 'quick fix'. Ideally once I have a meter on the job I'll spot 
> a break or similar, testing the pump motor function is easy enough, I can 
> easily remove and shove straight onto the battery. My main concern is being 
> sure I have everything I need to get something working when I get there, 
> ideally without spending money on things i may not need, and also working 
> within the constraints of limited luggage, so I can't take lots of tools. 
> Hopefully I can fix things properly, but if I can't, am I correct that just 
> supplying a voltage to the motor should allow everything to work? does the 
> motor sense a pressure build up and stop pumping, or does another component 
> elsewhere switch the voltage to the motor? 
> 
> 
Some / most systems have pressure switch in water supply usually adjustable 
to suit varying supply voltages (10 - 14v approx (flattish battery - mains 
charger on)) this is usually adjacent to the pump inlet so check power feed 
to this as well as pump connectors on outside.

Roy

"Dougal"  wrote in message
news:BYGdnXj_suK5l7vVnZ2dneKdnZydnZ2d@eclipse.net.uk...
> tony h wrote:
>
>> A bit of advice required, if possible.
>> I have an old bailey senator 6000, which uses a shurflo pump for the
>> water.
>> As yet, no proper diagnosis has been possible, besides checking the fuses
>> (there maybe more that I don't know about?!), I will have a go with a
>> multimeter before doing anything drastic, My water has suddenly stopped
>> pumping, was OK a month or so ago when we went away for the weekend, now
>> caravan needed for work, and I have no pumped water, which is a shame as
>> I really like showering.
>>
>> The question i need to ask is, if I find I have no voltage to the pump,
>> is there any reason why I can't just give the pump a new switched 12v
>> feed from the fusebox/battery?

If it gets to that, there is no reason what you should not do that. Just
make sure the fuse is as close to the battery end of the wire as possible
(within an inch or two if possible). I find inline fuse holders are easiest.
I solder them, but I am pretty sure you can get crimp version if you don't
want to solder. Fuse it at around 10 amp, although the pump is unlikely to
take more than 5amp even when starting up and probably about 3amp when
running. If you have bare body metal available at the pump end use the body
for the negative side. Finally use fairly think wire, say about 2-4mm 
overall
diameter. It doesn't need it for the current flowing, but the insulation is
nice and thick and less likely to get damaged on the cable run. Places in my
campervan have thin wires going to lights and things. That is fine in theory
for the current flowing, but they are a bit thin for a vehicle with sharp
edges to metalwork and don't survive much pulling when being fitted. Have
you tried giving the pump a GENTLE clout with a hammer?

Hope some of this helps
Regards Graham

Graham wrote:
>Have you tried giving the
> pump a GENTLE clout with a hammer?
I have 2 pumps, independently switched, though from the same live feed, 
neither is working, so wiring is almost certainly to blame, somewhere. Just 
got to trace it, or bodge it

"tony h"  wrote in message
news:g06qe0$1lqd$1@energise.enta.net...
> Graham wrote:
>>Have you tried giving the
>> pump a GENTLE clout with a hammer?
> I have 2 pumps, independently switched, though from the same live feed,
> neither is working, so wiring is almost certainly to blame, somewhere.
> Just got to trace it, or bodge it

The most common thing that happens is the negative wire from the pump to the
bodywork goes high resistance with corrosion. When I got my van the leisure
battery neg connection to the body was corroded and that caused all sort of
problems for the camper stuff. Battery couldn't get charged properly and not
a decent connection to equipment it was trying to power so componded the 
problems.

Agree its unlikely both your pumps have failed but just sticking 12 volts on 
each of them would confirm they are working before getting more technical 
with the problem.

Regards
Graham