My water heater (gas only) is playing up. It fails to light at all but 
the ignition is 'clicking' like mad. I have cleaned out the gas pipe 
which had some brown gloop in it but no change. The solenoid seems to be 
working and the filter in the gas line appears clean.

If anyone has any ideas I will be delighted to hear them. The van is an 
Elddis 510 (1991)

I have spoken to the very friendly guy at arc systems at Nottingham who 
is very helpful and we have been through the above to no avail. I will 
probably end up getting a serviced exchange from him but he is so 
overloaded that this will take some time.

Are there any caravan breakers not too far from Lincoln or Noth Yorks 
(where the van is currently sited) who may have a unit or even a 
replacement heater. I have already replaced both water inlet and 
pressure relief valves (both of which simply collapsed). This dratted 
heater is the only item on this van which has given any bother at all.

Many thanks

John East (Lincoln)

"John East"  wrote in message 
news:c82Uj.99190$h65.33120@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
> My water heater (gas only) is playing up. It fails to light at all but the 
> ignition is 'clicking' like mad. I have cleaned out the gas pipe which had 
> some brown gloop in it but no change. The solenoid seems to be working and 
> the filter in the gas line appears clean.
>
> If anyone has any ideas I will be delighted to hear them. The van is an 
> Elddis 510 (1991)
>
> I have spoken to the very friendly guy at arc systems at Nottingham who is 
> very helpful and we have been through the above to no avail. I will 
> probably end up getting a serviced exchange from him but he is so 
> overloaded that this will take some time.
>
> Are there any caravan breakers not too far from Lincoln or Noth Yorks 
> (where the van is currently sited) who may have a unit or even a 
> replacement heater. I have already replaced both water inlet and pressure 
> relief valves (both of which simply collapsed). This dratted heater is the 
> only item on this van which has given any bother at all.
>
> Many thanks
>
> John East (Lincoln)

There are usually one or two s/h ones on Ebay, but they generally aren't 
cheap once they've been bid for, due to relative unavailability.

Given you're Lincoln, how about:

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CARVER-CASCADE-2_W0QQitemZ170216673927QQihZ007QQcategoryZ108845QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

If you search ebay for carver cascade, you'll get some ideas.

If you prefer to spend a bit more money, then search for the 'Henry' water 
heater which is just about a direct replacement (major parts compatible, and 
same template for fitting).

Available new from various stores (£295 from Magnum Motorhomes in Grimsby is 
at the cheap end of the range of prices on offer).

This is a gas and electric model however (and if you have mains in your van 
it might be a worthwhile addition)

-- 
0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
Antispam measures in force - remove nobumf from address to reply
0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000

"Bob Douglas"  wrote in message
news:fvqgpv$2cr$1@aioe.org...
> "John East"  wrote in message
> news:c82Uj.99190$h65.33120@newsfe2-gui.ntli.net...
> > My water heater (gas only) is playing up. It fails to light at all but
the
> > ignition is 'clicking' like mad. I have cleaned out the gas pipe which
had
> > some brown gloop in it but no change. The solenoid seems to be working
and
> > the filter in the gas line appears clean.
> >
> > If anyone has any ideas I will be delighted to hear them. The van is an
> > Elddis 510 (1991)
> >
> > I have spoken to the very friendly guy at arc systems at Nottingham who
is
> > very helpful and we have been through the above to no avail. I will
> > probably end up getting a serviced exchange from him but he is so
> > overloaded that this will take some time.
> >
> > Are there any caravan breakers not too far from Lincoln or Noth Yorks
> > (where the van is currently sited) who may have a unit or even a
> > replacement heater. I have already replaced both water inlet and
pressure
> > relief valves (both of which simply collapsed). This dratted heater is
the
> > only item on this van which has given any bother at all.
> >
> > Many thanks
> >
> > John East (Lincoln)
>
> There are usually one or two s/h ones on Ebay, but they generally aren't
> cheap once they've been bid for, due to relative unavailability.
>
> Given you're Lincoln, how about:
>
>
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/CARVER-CASCADE-2_W0QQitemZ170216673927QQihZ007QQcategoryZ108845QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
>
> If you search ebay for carver cascade, you'll get some ideas.
>
> If you prefer to spend a bit more money, then search for the 'Henry' water
> heater which is just about a direct replacement (major parts compatible,
and
> same template for fitting).
>
> Available new from various stores (£295 from Magnum Motorhomes in Grimsby
is
> at the cheap end of the range of prices on offer).
>
> This is a gas and electric model however (and if you have mains in your
van
> it might be a worthwhile addition)


there is a breaker at Ingoldmills lincs if not to far away
>
> -- 
> 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
> Antispam measures in force - remove nobumf from address to reply
> 0000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
>
>

John East pretended :
> My water heater (gas only) is playing up. It fails to light at all but the 
> ignition is 'clicking' like mad. I have cleaned out the gas pipe which had 
> some brown gloop in it but no change. The solenoid seems to be working and 
> the filter in the gas line appears clean.
>
> If anyone has any ideas I will be delighted to hear them. The van is an 
> Elddis 510 (1991)
>
> I have spoken to the very friendly guy at arc systems at Nottingham who is 
> very helpful and we have been through the above to no avail. I will probably 
> end up getting a serviced exchange from him but he is so overloaded that this 
> will take some time.
>
> Are there any caravan breakers not too far from Lincoln or Noth Yorks (where 
> the van is currently sited) who may have a unit or even a replacement heater. 
> I have already replaced both water inlet and pressure relief valves (both of 
> which simply collapsed). This dratted heater is the only item on this van 
> which has given any bother at all.
>
> Many thanks
>
> John East (Lincoln)

If its clicking it may just be an insect or leaf somehow blocking the 
ignitor.

Take the outside cover off the unit and give the burner area a good 
blow out to make sure it is all clear. There may be a metal plate 
inside to remove first.

It may also be worth seeing if you can then light it with a match to 
see if it is just the ignitor playing up.

Of course it goes without saying if you are not sure get a professional 
to do the job.

If you are replacing the unit then make sure the replacement is the 
modified version. I seem to remember there is a safety issue with these 
where the flame can blow back and melt the pcb housing.

Paul

"Paul Edwards"  wrote in message 
news:mn.35597d850eaa0bc7.85946@nospam.talktalk.net...
> John East pretended :
>> My water heater (gas only) is playing up. It fails to light at all but 
>> the ignition is 'clicking' like mad. I have cleaned out the gas pipe 
>> which had some brown gloop in it but no change. The solenoid seems to be 
>> working and the filter in the gas line appears clean.

You don't want to go fannying about with a second hand heater that may be in 
worse condition that yours, you've already replaced the 2 bits that always 
fail on these heaters... the inlet and outlet valve, the heat makes the 
plastic brittle and they fail, replace them every few years and you'll have 
no probs,

I recall an exchange burner assembly from arc systems is about 95 quids, you 
get the lot for that price, solenoid, burner box, pcb, housing etc, but 
before you get one, have you checked gas is getting through to the burner?

take the outer big square cover off, then in there there's an alli cover 
held on with 2 screws, be carefull undooing them, as the relief valve on 
these heaters weeps a little in use, and may have rusted the steel self 
tappers, they screw into the alli heater block, nice combo for galvanic 
corosion (ask a landrover owner what that is :)

Anyway, with the alli plate off, you'll be able to see the burner box, 
chances are it's totally rotted out, the water from the relief valve drips 
onto it, and over time it's just falls appart, but there should be a nice 
quadruple row of holes for the gas to come out of, if too many are missing 
due to holes, then it'll never ignite properly.

As you've taken the gas line off before to the solenoid, it's only a couple 
of screws and the cable to unplug and the entire burner assembly is out, 
shake it, if it rattles it's full of rust, you could take the burner box off 
and tap the rust out, but if it's too bad there's no point, get a new unit 
from arc.

They are pretty robust heaters, not much to them really, just they are 
getting old now, so plastic items like the inlet and outlet valves are going 
brittle, the pressure relief valve could be weeping, those items are almost 
service parts, cheap and simple to change, and the entire burner assembly 
being available from arc, means it's only the hot water cylinder that's left 
(well, there's the lead overheat plug, but again that's replaceable) and you 
could still get replacement cylinders last time i looked (3 years ago, got 
an eberspacher in my motorhome now)

gazz wrote:
> "Paul Edwards"  wrote in message 
> news:mn.35597d850eaa0bc7.85946@nospam.talktalk.net...
> 
>>John East pretended :
>>
>>>My water heater (gas only) is playing up. It fails to light at all but 
>>>the ignition is 'clicking' like mad. I have cleaned out the gas pipe 
>>>which had some brown gloop in it but no change. The solenoid seems to be 
>>>working and the filter in the gas line appears clean.
> 
> 
> You don't want to go fannying about with a second hand heater that may be in 
> worse condition that yours, you've already replaced the 2 bits that always 
> fail on these heaters... the inlet and outlet valve, the heat makes the 
> plastic brittle and they fail, replace them every few years and you'll have 
> no probs,
> 
> I recall an exchange burner assembly from arc systems is about 95 quids, you 
> get the lot for that price, solenoid, burner box, pcb, housing etc, but 
> before you get one, have you checked gas is getting through to the burner?
> 
> take the outer big square cover off, then in there there's an alli cover 
> held on with 2 screws, be carefull undooing them, as the relief valve on 
> these heaters weeps a little in use, and may have rusted the steel self 
> tappers, they screw into the alli heater block, nice combo for galvanic 
> corosion (ask a landrover owner what that is :)
> 
> Anyway, with the alli plate off, you'll be able to see the burner box, 
> chances are it's totally rotted out, the water from the relief valve drips 
> onto it, and over time it's just falls appart, but there should be a nice 
> quadruple row of holes for the gas to come out of, if too many are missing 
> due to holes, then it'll never ignite properly.
> 
> As you've taken the gas line off before to the solenoid, it's only a couple 
> of screws and the cable to unplug and the entire burner assembly is out, 
> shake it, if it rattles it's full of rust, you could take the burner box off 
> and tap the rust out, but if it's too bad there's no point, get a new unit 
> from arc.
> 
> They are pretty robust heaters, not much to them really, just they are 
> getting old now, so plastic items like the inlet and outlet valves are going 
> brittle, the pressure relief valve could be weeping, those items are almost 
> service parts, cheap and simple to change, and the entire burner assembly 
> being available from arc, means it's only the hot water cylinder that's left 
> (well, there's the lead overheat plug, but again that's replaceable) and you 
> could still get replacement cylinders last time i looked (3 years ago, got 
> an eberspacher in my motorhome now) 
> 
> 
Many thanks for that. I have already checked the burner and it ios quite
clean and relatively rust free. I shall replace it at the weekend and
try lighting the burner manually which, as you say will check the gas
flow and point to electronics if it works. On the advice of the arc chap
I did measure the resistance across the solenoid which was 21 ohms
against his quoted 22 so that should be OK. There is a small sign of
burning at the point of solering of one of the resistors but it doesnt
look too serious and I cannot see any problem with the two transistors
which he said often fail - the ones which control the solenoid opening.

At the end of the day he will do a service exchange for 66 pounds which
is great but he has a long waiting list so I thought it worth checking a
few things first b ut the exchange unit has got to be worth it in the
long run. We are expecting to change the van this year but even then it
is best to have it working!

Many thanks for the comments.

John East pretended :

> Are there any caravan breakers not too far from Lincoln or Noth Yorks (where 
> the van is currently sited) who may have a unit or even a replacement heater. 
> I have already replaced both water inlet and pressure relief valves (both of 
> which simply collapsed). This dratted heater is the only item on this van 
> which has given any bother at all.

There is a breaker between those two locations. Welldale Road, 
Castleford, set back on the left as you drive away from Castleford. It 
was just being reorganised last time we dropped in last year.

-- 
Regards,
        Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk

John East formulated on Thursday :
>  There is a small sign of
> burning at the point of solering of one of the resistors but it doesnt
> look too serious 

I don't know the unit, but if the resistor is a large one, they are 
often installed manually which can leave traces of brown hard flux 
around the point where it is soldered.

> and I cannot see any problem with the two transistors
> which he said often fail - the ones which control the solenoid opening.

You should be able to check the operation by putting a meter across the 
solenoid connections and checking for 12v appearing when the solenoid 
should be operating.

-- 
Regards,
        Harry (M1BYT) (L)
http://www.ukradioamateur.co.uk