I have finally gotten the rangie idling on gas. So now it is my main 
fuel.
It looks like when one of the previous 15 owners fitted the switch, they 
didn't wire the gauge.

All the lights come on in sequence and never go down with fuel use.
In the boot are two LPG tanks each with a gauge and a two wire fly lead 
with black and white wires. How do I wire it so that it can read the 
combined level of both tanks, and is it possible to get a proper dash 
mounted needle LPG guage, that I can put in eye line rather than the 
LEDs which are down by my knee?

Cheers All. Loving the environmentally friendly fuel buzz.
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com
Now Playing at home:Front Line Assembly-A Decade
http://www.myspace.com/theelderuk

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.

The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
resistance of 0-90 ohms.

Hope this helps a little Jon

In article , 
jonathan_whitehouse@btopenworld.com says...
> Firstly, both tanks should be balanced so you can take a reading from
> the one single tank and it shall give you the overall total of both
> tanks. Secondly, the guages on a gas system are very inaccurate, and
> could give you a false indication of how much fuel you really have. It
> is far better to run the tanks from full to empty, and take a note of
> the mileage attained, then use the trip on the car to let you know how
> much fuel you have and not rely on the lights.
> 
> The guage, well it depends on which type of system you have installed,
> one of the more common systems use 0-90 ohm resistance for the guage,
> so it is possible to use a normal guage if you can find one with a
> resistance of 0-90 ohms.
> 
> Hope this helps a little Jon
> 
> 
It does indeed help Jon thanks.
The system appears to be a real bitsa. Tanks gauges and switch say BRC 
Elegant. The vaporiser is a kargas/longas airod, and the mixer has no 
name on it, and appears to have no way of attaching it to the plenum, 
but it is held rock solid. There is what appears to be a grub screw, but 
it doesn't have either a screw or allen head so it may be broken off.

When I first got it I checked everything for leaks and all connections 
to make sure they were OK, except the gauges.

The switch has two cobbled on toggle switches which (by operation) 
toggle the petrol supply off, and the gas supply on, or maybe they turn 
off the petrol pump and injectors, cable tied to the main switch body. 
All terminals on the switch apear to be connected.

I appreciate that it wouldn't be an accurate system, just an indicator. 
Better than what I have as the trip meter doesn't work and getting a new 
instrument panel is on my list but not a priority as petrol, speedo and 
rev counter work.

I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
electrical questions?
-- 
Carl Robson
Audio stream: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com:8000/samtest
Homepage: http://www.bouncing-czechs.com

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..

On Mon, 7 May 2007 09:25:14 +0100, Elder
 wrote:

>I'll look into what I can scavenge from a scrappy for a gauge then. 
>Would you wire them in series or parallel? So for the stupid basic 
>electrical questions?

Like jon said, i think both tanks should be balanced so you can read
either one not both..