Hello All,

for some perverse reason, I've decided to buy a  P6 3500 V8. I'm not that 
bothered about economy, but I have a feeling I'll end up using a lot more 
than I am planning to. Well, it's either that, the Xantia or the missus' 
Mondeo.

It's a 1974 model, automatic running on twin SUs. Has anyone converted one 
of these to run on LPG. I'm presuming it will be a lot easier than a 
fuel-injected car.

Thanks for any tips!
Cheers

Mike P
-- 

I love to travel, but I hate to arrive.

In article <474decbe$1_1@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com>,
   Mike P  wrote:
> for some perverse reason, I've decided to buy a  P6 3500 V8. I'm not
> that bothered about economy, but I have a feeling I'll end up using a
> lot more than I am planning to. Well, it's either that, the Xantia or
> the missus' Mondeo.

> It's a 1974 model, automatic running on twin SUs. Has anyone converted
> one of these to run on LPG. I'm presuming it will be a lot easier than
> a fuel-injected car.

Well, plenty of V-8 Rovers have been converted so apart from the actual
tank it should be easy?

A 5 speed box from an SD1 helps the MPG too and is a fairly easy fit.

-- 
*I just got lost in thought. It was unfamiliar territory*

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Mike P wrote:
> Hello All,
> 
> for some perverse reason, I've decided to buy a  P6 3500 V8.

Good man!

> I'm not that 
> bothered about economy, but I have a feeling I'll end up using a lot more 
> than I am planning to. Well, it's either that, the Xantia or the missus' 
> Mondeo.
> 
> It's a 1974 model, automatic running on twin SUs. Has anyone converted one 
> of these to run on LPG. I'm presuming it will be a lot easier than a 
> fuel-injected car.

I removed a kit from a 3.5 Range Rover a couple of years ago. There was 
nothing very sophisticated about it at all. Loads of Rangeys have been 
converted, so there should be a wealth of information out there.

Remember you're not going to have much boot space left. A boot mounted 
spare wheel would help a bit.

"Mike P"  wrote in message
news:474decbe$1_1@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com...
> Hello All,
>
> for some perverse reason, I've decided to buy a  P6 3500 V8. I'm not that
> bothered about economy, but I have a feeling I'll end up using a lot more
> than I am planning to. Well, it's either that, the Xantia or the missus'
> Mondeo.
>
> It's a 1974 model, automatic running on twin SUs. Has anyone converted one
> of these to run on LPG. I'm presuming it will be a lot easier than a
> fuel-injected car.
>
> Thanks for any tips!

Mike, I've converted more rover V8 engines to LPG than I care to think
about, mainly in landrover based vehicles but the basic engine is almost
identical bar the shape of the front timing cover and water pump.
Your engine is classes as a "pre-SD1" type, which brings about a couple of
minor issues to consider when gassing.
1. Valve seats. The early style heads are not certified for unleaded
(although I know of a lot of engines that have run on it for years with no
issues) so to play safe, as gas has no lead either, either fit a set of
later cylinder heads (late sd1 or early 80's rangerover will fit straight on
and have the dual advantages of being both unleaded compatible and slightly
larger valve sizes) or fit a "Flashlube" kit (around £50) as part of the LPG
conversion. If going the head route, take the oppertunity to have them
skimmed 0.030" and use the later composite gaskets for better sealing.
2. Your distributor will either want replacing with a rangerover electronic
type, or some sort of electronic conversion to replace the original points
and give a fatter spark for the LPG. Leads, cap, rotor arm and plugs need to
be PERFECT - use only genuine Lucas caps and arms, leads from landrover, and
NGK plugs.
Regardless what you do with respect to carburettor "piston lifters" if
indeed you choose to use that system, over time the carb needles and
metering jet will wear - not too expensive or difficult to replace though.
Badger.

Mike P wrote:

> Hello All,
> 
> for some perverse reason, I've decided to buy a  P6 3500 V8. I'm not
> that bothered about economy, but I have a feeling I'll end up using a
> lot more than I am planning to. Well, it's either that, the Xantia or
> the missus' Mondeo.
> 
> It's a 1974 model, automatic running on twin SUs. Has anyone
> converted one of these to run on LPG. I'm presuming it will be a lot
> easier than a fuel-injected car.

Having owned a P6 in the past, the main problem I would see is where to
mount a decent size tank without making the boot unusable.


-- 
'89 Mazda RX-7 Convertible
'92 Mazda RX-7

"Willy Eckerslyke"  wrote in message 
news:5r7e3oF12nqp1U1@mid.individual.net...
> Mike P wrote:
>> Hello All,
>>
>> for some perverse reason, I've decided to buy a  P6 3500 V8.
>

Yes, I've wanted one for many years, my best mate's dad had one when I was 
at school. I've finally found one I can afford, it's not perfect but it's 
got nearly a years MOT and isn't too rotten. Interior is *shocking* though!

> Good man!
>
>> I'm not that bothered about economy, but I have a feeling I'll end up 
>> using a lot more than I am planning to. Well, it's either that, the 
>> Xantia or the missus' Mondeo.
>>
>> It's a 1974 model, automatic running on twin SUs. Has anyone converted 
>> one of these to run on LPG. I'm presuming it will be a lot easier than a 
>> fuel-injected car.
>
> I removed a kit from a 3.5 Range Rover a couple of years ago. There was 
> nothing very sophisticated about it at all. Loads of Rangeys have been 
> converted, so there should be a wealth of information out there.
>
> Remember you're not going to have much boot space left. A boot mounted 
> spare wheel would help a bit.

Yes, I'll get the spare mounted on the boot and stick the biggest tank I can 
fit in there. I hardly use the boot in any of the other cars, so I don't see 
it being a problem at all.

THanks for the reply!
Mike p

"Badger"  wrote in message 
news:JaKdnaXNZ-tTdNPanZ2dnUVZ8sGvnZ2d@bt.com...
>
> "Mike P"  wrote in message
> news:474decbe$1_1@mk-nntp-2.news.uk.tiscali.com...
>> Hello All,
>>
>> for some perverse reason, I've decided to buy a  P6 3500 V8. I'm not that
>> bothered about economy, but I have a feeling I'll end up using a lot more
>> than I am planning to. Well, it's either that, the Xantia or the missus'
>> Mondeo.
>>
>> It's a 1974 model, automatic running on twin SUs. Has anyone converted 
>> one
>> of these to run on LPG. I'm presuming it will be a lot easier than a
>> fuel-injected car.
>>
>> Thanks for any tips!
>
> Mike, I've converted more rover V8 engines to LPG than I care to think
> about, mainly in landrover based vehicles but the basic engine is almost
> identical bar the shape of the front timing cover and water pump.
> Your engine is classes as a "pre-SD1" type, which brings about a couple of
> minor issues to consider when gassing.
> 1. Valve seats. The early style heads are not certified for unleaded
> (although I know of a lot of engines that have run on it for years with no
> issues) so to play safe, as gas has no lead either, either fit a set of
> later cylinder heads (late sd1 or early 80's rangerover will fit straight 
> on
> and have the dual advantages of being both unleaded compatible and 
> slightly
> larger valve sizes) or fit a "Flashlube" kit (around £50) as part of the 
> LPG
> conversion. If going the head route, take the oppertunity to have them
> skimmed 0.030" and use the later composite gaskets for better sealing.
> 2. Your distributor will either want replacing with a rangerover 
> electronic
> type, or some sort of electronic conversion to replace the original points
> and give a fatter spark for the LPG. Leads, cap, rotor arm and plugs need 
> to
> be PERFECT - use only genuine Lucas caps and arms, leads from landrover, 
> and
> NGK plugs.
> Regardless what you do with respect to carburettor "piston lifters" if
> indeed you choose to use that system, over time the carb needles and
> metering jet will wear - not too expensive or difficult to replace though.
> Badger.

Thanks Badger, how possible is it to do this lot at home?  I do have some 
mechanical knowledge (ex-citroen mechanic but not since 1991) and I've 
rebuilt 2CVs and changed engines in Saabs before now..

Cheers

Mike P

Mike P wrote:

>> Remember you're not going to have much boot space left. A boot mounted 
>> spare wheel would help a bit.
> 
> Yes, I'll get the spare mounted on the boot and stick the biggest tank I can 
> fit in there.

No doubt someone will correct me on this, but ISTR that you need more 
than just a bracket. Stronger boot springs and some strengthening? You 
may need to find a complete boot from a car that's already had one fitted.

> I hardly use the boot in any of the other cars, so I don't see 
> it being a problem at all.

Having just changed some rear suspension bushes on my P6, I'd suggest 
you take care to retain access to the boot sides where there are two 
bolt heads, and also the top of the cross member thing where there are 
two access panels for the diff mount bushes. Check whether any welding 
is needed around the former area first too. They often go there - mine 
had a hole I hadn't spotted.

"Willy Eckerslyke"  wrote in message 
news:5raeecF13j8idU1@mid.individual.net...
> Mike P wrote:
>
>>> Remember you're not going to have much boot space left. A boot mounted 
>>> spare wheel would help a bit.
>>
>> Yes, I'll get the spare mounted on the boot and stick the biggest tank I 
>> can fit in there.
>
> No doubt someone will correct me on this, but ISTR that you need more than 
> just a bracket. Stronger boot springs and some strengthening? You may need 
> to find a complete boot from a car that's already had one fitted.
>
>> I hardly use the boot in any of the other cars, so I don't see it being a 
>> problem at all.
>
> Having just changed some rear suspension bushes on my P6, I'd suggest you 
> take care to retain access to the boot sides where there are two bolt 
> heads, and also the top of the cross member thing where there are two 
> access panels for the diff mount bushes. Check whether any welding is 
> needed around the former area first too. They often go there - mine had a 
> hole I hadn't spotted.

Thanks for the tips guys. I intend to run the car for a few months, to see 
what fails or drops off, then I've got a unit with a lift in it for 3 weeks 
in Feb, during which it's going to get as stripped as possible, any welding 
done, bushes replaced etc. Then I'll go for the LPG..

I'm quite excited by all this. It's the first real "classic" I've had, 
unless you can count 2CVs, GSs and Capris in that ..

CHeers
Mike