I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last
forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines are
pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering getting a
spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9 is the best
version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope or does it mean
changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of using a much larger
engine. The cam and top end of mine has been replaced/overhauled so
ideally I'd just like to use the block crank and pistons etc from the 3.9.
Any gotchas?

-- 
*A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.*

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message 
news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> I've got an SD1
Snip
>    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
>                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave - I presume you know about Rinner bros and their Indian factory "new 
old stock" stuff, and were you aware that they now have some new/unused 
bodyshells? You could build yoursef something spectacular and make us all 
jealous...
-- 
Neil McD.

In article ,
   Neil McD.  wrote:
> "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message 
> news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> > I've got an SD1
> Snip

I've snipped my sig too...

> Dave - I presume you know about Rinner bros and their Indian factory
> "new old stock" stuff, and were you aware that they now have some
> new/unused bodyshells? You could build yoursef something spectacular
> and make us all jealous...

Nowt wrong with my present bodyshell and in any case they can generally be
repaired quite easily. They're not the rustbuckets some think as regards
the structure - it tends to be doors etc that rust badly. And usually
through poor protection.  

And yes I do know about Rimmer Bros. I probably pay for their champagne at
board meetings...;-)

-- 
*Why does the sun lighten our hair, but darken our skin?

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last
> forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines are
> pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering getting a
> spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9 is the best
> version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope or does it mean
> changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of using a much larger
> engine. The cam and top end of mine has been replaced/overhauled so
> ideally I'd just like to use the block crank and pistons etc from the 3.9.
> Any gotchas?

Dave, I've done this before. You need to raise the fuel pressure to around
42psi then re-calibrate the airflow meter. I have a modified system sitting
here - it came off my 3.9 110 when I fitted the 4.7!
Badger.

"Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message 
news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> I've got an SD1
Snip
>    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
>                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave - I presume you know about Rinner bros and their Indian factory "new 
old stock" stuff, and were you aware that they now have some new/unused 
bodyshells? You could build yoursef something spectacular and make us all 
jealous...
-- 
Neil McD.

In article ,
   Neil McD.  wrote:
> "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message 
> news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> > I've got an SD1
> Snip

I've snipped my sig too...

> Dave - I presume you know about Rinner bros and their Indian factory
> "new old stock" stuff, and were you aware that they now have some
> new/unused bodyshells? You could build yoursef something spectacular
> and make us all jealous...

Nowt wrong with my present bodyshell and in any case they can generally be
repaired quite easily. They're not the rustbuckets some think as regards
the structure - it tends to be doors etc that rust badly. And usually
through poor protection.  

And yes I do know about Rimmer Bros. I probably pay for their champagne at
board meetings...;-)

-- 
*Why does the sun lighten our hair, but darken our skin?

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last
> forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines are
> pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering getting a
> spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9 is the best
> version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope or does it mean
> changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of using a much larger
> engine. The cam and top end of mine has been replaced/overhauled so
> ideally I'd just like to use the block crank and pistons etc from the 3.9.
> Any gotchas?

Dave, I've done this before. You need to raise the fuel pressure to around
42psi then re-calibrate the airflow meter. I have a modified system sitting
here - it came off my 3.9 110 when I fitted the 4.7!
Badger.

In article ,
   Badger  wrote:

> "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
> news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> > I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last
> > forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines
> > are pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering
> > getting a spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9
> > is the best version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope
> > or does it mean changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of
> > using a much larger engine. The cam and top end of mine has been
> > replaced/overhauled so ideally I'd just like to use the block crank
> > and pistons etc from the 3.9. Any gotchas?

> Dave, I've done this before. You need to raise the fuel pressure to
> around 42psi then re-calibrate the airflow meter. I have a modified
> system sitting here - it came off my 3.9 110 when I fitted the 4.7!

Ah - that sounds good. I'm already using an adjustable regulator and have
a new pump standing by, so that should be ok. The re-calibration of the
AFM sounds a bit hit or miss though - but I've got a spare.

-- 
*It ain't the size, it's... er...  no, it IS ..the size.

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
news:4f14e2dba3dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> In article ,
>    Badger  wrote:
>
> > "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
> > news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> > > I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last
> > > forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines
> > > are pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering
> > > getting a spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9
> > > is the best version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope
> > > or does it mean changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of
> > > using a much larger engine. The cam and top end of mine has been
> > > replaced/overhauled so ideally I'd just like to use the block crank
> > > and pistons etc from the 3.9. Any gotchas?
>
> > Dave, I've done this before. You need to raise the fuel pressure to
> > around 42psi then re-calibrate the airflow meter. I have a modified
> > system sitting here - it came off my 3.9 110 when I fitted the 4.7!
>
> Ah - that sounds good. I'm already using an adjustable regulator and have
> a new pump standing by, so that should be ok. The re-calibration of the
> AFM sounds a bit hit or miss though - but I've got a spare.

Std 3.5 pump is ok, no probs there. You need to use a decent CO meter
though. Set fuel pressure to 42psi with engine not running and fuel pump
relay shorted to allow it to run, prise cover off AFM and you'll see a
plastic toothed wheel and a spring-steel locking catch. ease the catch back
and tension the spring by turning the wheel roughly 6 notches, start engine
and get to normal temp. Adjust idle mixture screw to 1 turn out from fully
home then re-adjust spring tension to get a CO of approx. 1.8%, then
fine-trim mixture with CO adjusting screw. Finally, re-seal cover onto AFM.
That's what I did when going from a 10.5:1 3.5 with a Piper 270/110 cam to a
9.35:1 3.9 with a std cam, it worked perfectly for me.
Badger.

In article ,
   Badger  wrote:
> > Ah - that sounds good. I'm already using an adjustable regulator and
> > have a new pump standing by, so that should be ok. The re-calibration
> > of the AFM sounds a bit hit or miss though - but I've got a spare.

> Std 3.5 pump is ok, no probs there. You need to use a decent CO meter
> though. Set fuel pressure to 42psi with engine not running and fuel pump
> relay shorted to allow it to run, prise cover off AFM and you'll see a
> plastic toothed wheel and a spring-steel locking catch. ease the catch
> back and tension the spring by turning the wheel roughly 6 notches,
> start engine and get to normal temp. Adjust idle mixture screw to 1 turn
> out from fully home then re-adjust spring tension to get a CO of approx.
> 1.8%, then fine-trim mixture with CO adjusting screw. Finally, re-seal
> cover onto AFM. That's what I did when going from a 10.5:1 3.5 with a
> Piper 270/110 cam to a 9.35:1 3.9 with a std cam, it worked perfectly
> for me. Badger.

Great - thanks.

-- 
*A fool and his money can throw one hell of a party.  

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message 
news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> I've got an SD1
Snip
>    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
>                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Dave - I presume you know about Rinner bros and their Indian factory "new 
old stock" stuff, and were you aware that they now have some new/unused 
bodyshells? You could build yoursef something spectacular and make us all 
jealous...
-- 
Neil McD.

In article ,
   Neil McD.  wrote:
> "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message 
> news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> > I've got an SD1
> Snip

I've snipped my sig too...

> Dave - I presume you know about Rinner bros and their Indian factory
> "new old stock" stuff, and were you aware that they now have some
> new/unused bodyshells? You could build yoursef something spectacular
> and make us all jealous...

Nowt wrong with my present bodyshell and in any case they can generally be
repaired quite easily. They're not the rustbuckets some think as regards
the structure - it tends to be doors etc that rust badly. And usually
through poor protection.  

And yes I do know about Rimmer Bros. I probably pay for their champagne at
board meetings...;-)

-- 
*Why does the sun lighten our hair, but darken our skin?

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last
> forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines are
> pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering getting a
> spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9 is the best
> version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope or does it mean
> changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of using a much larger
> engine. The cam and top end of mine has been replaced/overhauled so
> ideally I'd just like to use the block crank and pistons etc from the 3.9.
> Any gotchas?

Dave, I've done this before. You need to raise the fuel pressure to around
42psi then re-calibrate the airflow meter. I have a modified system sitting
here - it came off my 3.9 110 when I fitted the 4.7!
Badger.

In article ,
   Badger  wrote:

> "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
> news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> > I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last
> > forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines
> > are pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering
> > getting a spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9
> > is the best version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope
> > or does it mean changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of
> > using a much larger engine. The cam and top end of mine has been
> > replaced/overhauled so ideally I'd just like to use the block crank
> > and pistons etc from the 3.9. Any gotchas?

> Dave, I've done this before. You need to raise the fuel pressure to
> around 42psi then re-calibrate the airflow meter. I have a modified
> system sitting here - it came off my 3.9 110 when I fitted the 4.7!

Ah - that sounds good. I'm already using an adjustable regulator and have
a new pump standing by, so that should be ok. The re-calibration of the
AFM sounds a bit hit or miss though - but I've got a spare.

-- 
*It ain't the size, it's... er...  no, it IS ..the size.

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
news:4f14e2dba3dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> In article ,
>    Badger  wrote:
>
> > "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
> > news:4f14c19332dave@davenoise.co.uk...
> > > I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last
> > > forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines
> > > are pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering
> > > getting a spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9
> > > is the best version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope
> > > or does it mean changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of
> > > using a much larger engine. The cam and top end of mine has been
> > > replaced/overhauled so ideally I'd just like to use the block crank
> > > and pistons etc from the 3.9. Any gotchas?
>
> > Dave, I've done this before. You need to raise the fuel pressure to
> > around 42psi then re-calibrate the airflow meter. I have a modified
> > system sitting here - it came off my 3.9 110 when I fitted the 4.7!
>
> Ah - that sounds good. I'm already using an adjustable regulator and have
> a new pump standing by, so that should be ok. The re-calibration of the
> AFM sounds a bit hit or miss though - but I've got a spare.

Std 3.5 pump is ok, no probs there. You need to use a decent CO meter
though. Set fuel pressure to 42psi with engine not running and fuel pump
relay shorted to allow it to run, prise cover off AFM and you'll see a
plastic toothed wheel and a spring-steel locking catch. ease the catch back
and tension the spring by turning the wheel roughly 6 notches, start engine
and get to normal temp. Adjust idle mixture screw to 1 turn out from fully
home then re-adjust spring tension to get a CO of approx. 1.8%, then
fine-trim mixture with CO adjusting screw. Finally, re-seal cover onto AFM.
That's what I did when going from a 10.5:1 3.5 with a Piper 270/110 cam to a
9.35:1 3.9 with a std cam, it worked perfectly for me.
Badger.

In article ,
   Badger  wrote:
> > Ah - that sounds good. I'm already using an adjustable regulator and
> > have a new pump standing by, so that should be ok. The re-calibration
> > of the AFM sounds a bit hit or miss though - but I've got a spare.

> Std 3.5 pump is ok, no probs there. You need to use a decent CO meter
> though. Set fuel pressure to 42psi with engine not running and fuel pump
> relay shorted to allow it to run, prise cover off AFM and you'll see a
> plastic toothed wheel and a spring-steel locking catch. ease the catch
> back and tension the spring by turning the wheel roughly 6 notches,
> start engine and get to normal temp. Adjust idle mixture screw to 1 turn
> out from fully home then re-adjust spring tension to get a CO of approx.
> 1.8%, then fine-trim mixture with CO adjusting screw. Finally, re-seal
> cover onto AFM. That's what I did when going from a 10.5:1 3.5 with a
> Piper 270/110 cam to a 9.35:1 3.9 with a std cam, it worked perfectly
> for me. Badger.

Great - thanks.

-- 
*A fool and his money can throw one hell of a party.  

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Badger"  wrote in message
news:qaCdnc4-Qpv9IlfbnZ2dnUVZ8sKlnZ2d@bt.com...
> Unlikely, never owned a Jetta in my life. It's 4 cylinders short of being
a
> real engine! ;-)
> Badger.

Badger you really are a  fuckwad if you consider a rover v8 is a *real*
engine?

Its about 275 BHP short of being a *real* engine in standard form, even when
added the extra 275 BHP and its *still* junk!

"SuperMatey"  wrote in message
news:j8ydnYw4DbwbmFPbnZ2dnUVZ8qaqnZ2d@bt.com...
>
> "Badger"  wrote in message
> news:qaCdnc4-Qpv9IlfbnZ2dnUVZ8sKlnZ2d@bt.com...
> > Unlikely, never owned a Jetta in my life. It's 4 cylinders short of
being
> a
> > real engine! ;-)
> > Badger.
>
> Badger you really are a  fuckwad if you consider a rover v8 is a *real*
> engine?
>
> Its about 275 BHP short of being a *real* engine in standard form, even
when
> added the extra 275 BHP and its *still* junk!

Oh dear, Troll time again.

As a complete package (and this is a comparison ONLY against other V8's!),
taking into account its cost, compact physical size, weight, output (easily
raised), design simplicity and fuel consumed per bhp, it's an excellent
all-rounder, which is why so many thousands find their way into kit cars,
hot-rods, street sleepers etc etc. It drinks less fuel per bhp than most
seriously overweight yank cast-iron crap, costs a whole lot less than any
Chevvy LS-series or Mopar lump (of which the true Hemi is the only really
good design), the parts are readily available at reasonable cost and it can
be worked on / tuned at the side of the road unlike Jag / Lexus / BMW V8's
which all require a laptop plugging in!
Oh, and unlike the "septics", rover quoted real power figures (both Gross
and DIN over the years), not over-inflated ego-boosted ones in any vain
attempt to get one-up on the competition. Half the quoted bhp figures for
yank engines were utter crap. Claims from the factory of 330bhp from a std
350ci, later dyno tested at only 265bhp!!!! Compare that to rover's true
figures of 190bhp from a 215ci (SD1 vitesse) or even 225bhp from a 280ci
(P38a rangerover) and the rover actually packs more punch per cube than the
350!
The above is fact, no further argument will be entered into, so don't make
yourself out to be a bigger fucktard than you already have, please.

Badger.
www.bhengineering.co.uk
www.roverv8engines.com

On 19 Aug, 11:01, "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote:
> I've got an SD1 EFI with a very high mileage engine. Which won't last
> forever - although it's fine at the moment. Since all these engines are
> pretty cheap (in relative terms) secondhand I was considering getting a
> spare and overhauling it ready to swap. Many reckon the 3.9 is the best
> version - but will the EFI (flapper type) from a 3.5 cope or does it mean
> changing everything? It's an auto and I'd be wary of using a much larger
> engine. The cam and top end of mine has been replaced/overhauled so
> ideally I'd just like to use the block crank and pistons etc from the 3.9.
> Any gotchas?
>
> --
> *A chicken crossing the road is poultry in motion.*
>
>     Dave Plowman        d...@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
>                   To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Upping the pressure should be a good match to a capacity increase, but
if you have trouble with getting the fuelling right then you can
always convert to an aftermarket programmable EFi to sort it out. In
my 110 V8 Landy I inserted a Vitesse spec V8 (plus Piper cam etc)
using Land Rover SUs, but later converted to Holley Commander
prgrammable EFi - it saved all the messing about with spring and
needles required to set the SUs for a tuned engine. It cost money, but
I am pleased to have a programmable fuelling, and at the end of this
weekend I should finally have the fully programmable ignition timing
too (and I have had the system in for 5 years without getting around
to this final step). I admit I did it more to prove I could, than
anything else...but it is rather neat to be able to change the system
on the move via a laptop, and to use the laptop as a data logger to
set it up.

Steve