Hi all - new here! I have a cherry Hagstrom Viking. It's a gorgeous 
guitar, I love it. But it does have an annoying tendency to go out of 
tune quite a lot. The strings are well stretched by now so it 's not 
that. I was thinking of taking it to an expert to see if there are any 
customisations that can be done to improve the tuning but which don't 
fundamentally affects the sound of the guitar. What do you guys think? 
Is this realistic? I'm not too aesthetically pleased with the tuning 
pegs either so I was thinking of changing those at the least, even if it 
had no impact on the tuning. Is this likely to affect the sound though? 
The spec of the Viking can be found here:

http://www.hagstrom-guitars.co.uk/3124.0.html?&L=hogblffqob

Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

J.

On Wed, 16 Sep 2009 15:56:33 +0100, John <john@invalid.invalid> wrote:

>Hi all - new here! I have a cherry Hagstrom Viking. It's a gorgeous 
>guitar, I love it. But it does have an annoying tendency to go out of 
>tune quite a lot. The strings are well stretched by now so it 's not 
>that. I was thinking of taking it to an expert to see if there are any 
>customisations that can be done to improve the tuning but which don't 
>fundamentally affects the sound of the guitar. What do you guys think? 
>Is this realistic? I'm not too aesthetically pleased with the tuning 
>pegs either so I was thinking of changing those at the least, even if it 
>had no impact on the tuning. Is this likely to affect the sound though? 
>The spec of the Viking can be found here:
>
>http://www.hagstrom-guitars.co.uk/3124.0.html?&L=hogblffqob
>
>Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!
>
>J.

I can't see much wrong with the specs except it has Hagstrom tuners.
The bridge is a reliable Gibson design and the floating anchoring bit
(I can't remember the proper name for it) is to a design that has been
around on archtops for decades. Not much to go wrong there, except:

1) check for slackness in the bridge screws - it's an adjustable
bridge and either screws or the plastic/metal/whatever that's carrying
the strings could be worn and your intonation is going out as you
play, especially if you are in the habit of resting the heel of your
hand on the bridge whilst taking a solo - they can take a bashing - in
which case you need a new bridge - replacing the adjusting screws
would be tortuous, and:

2) The tuners are knackered. You don't say how old the guitar is or
how much it's played so I have no idea of the mileage on it - if
you've had it 10 years the tuners will prolly be screwed even if you
only change the strings every 6 months, depending on the bashing it
gets a home, let alone gigs.

3) you might just need a good set-up, although if that were the case
you'd NEVER get it in tune because the neck would be out.

I won't recommend tuners - I use locking Schallers on my electrics but
they're expensive and prolly would be unneccesary and aesthetically
wrong on a semi.

Check out Gotohs, though - there's no trem so you don't need locking
tuners, just accurate ones. I know people who swear by Waverley's but
they're all acoustic players and you really don't need an 18/1 ratio
on a semi.

Other than that, there's plenty of other guys on this group who will
no doubt have other ideas. The important thing is that you find out
why it's going out of tune. Might be worth simply dropping it in to a
decent electric guitar tecchie and asking him to work out what's
happenening.  He won't charge you for that -  he gets the repair, you
get a guitar that stays in tune - perfect.

Pete

"John" <john@invalid.invalid> wrote in message 
news:h8qub7$bpr$1@news.eternal-september.org...
> Hi all - new here! I have a cherry Hagstrom Viking. It's a gorgeous 
> guitar, I love it. But it does have an annoying tendency to go out of tune 
> quite a lot. The strings are well stretched by now so it 's not that. I 
> was thinking of taking it to an expert to see if there are any 
> customisations that can be done to improve the tuning but which don't 
> fundamentally affects the sound of the guitar. What do you guys think? Is 
> this realistic? I'm not too aesthetically pleased with the tuning pegs 
> either so I was thinking of changing those at the least, even if it had no 
> impact on the tuning. Is this likely to affect the sound though? The spec 
> of the Viking can be found here:
>
> http://www.hagstrom-guitars.co.uk/3124.0.html?&L=hogblffqob
>
> Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!

The nut slots may be tight or require lube, or both. Do you hear any 
'pinging' from the strings when string bending close to the nut? Have you 
tried bending the strings between nut and tuners? Do the strings stay in 
tune afterwards?

icarusi
--

remove the 00 to reply

anything@contractorcom.com wrote:
> On Wed, 16 Sep 2009 15:56:33 +0100, John <john@invalid.invalid> wrote:
> 
>> Hi all - new here! I have a cherry Hagstrom Viking. It's a gorgeous 
>> guitar, I love it. But it does have an annoying tendency to go out of 
>> tune quite a lot. The strings are well stretched by now so it 's not 
>> that. I was thinking of taking it to an expert to see if there are any 
>> customisations that can be done to improve the tuning but which don't 
>> fundamentally affects the sound of the guitar. What do you guys think? 
>> Is this realistic? I'm not too aesthetically pleased with the tuning 
>> pegs either so I was thinking of changing those at the least, even if it 
>> had no impact on the tuning. Is this likely to affect the sound though? 
>> The spec of the Viking can be found here:
>>
>> http://www.hagstrom-guitars.co.uk/3124.0.html?&L=hogblffqob
>>
>> Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!
>>
>> J.
> 
> I can't see much wrong with the specs except it has Hagstrom tuners.
> The bridge is a reliable Gibson design and the floating anchoring bit
> (I can't remember the proper name for it) is to a design that has been
> around on archtops for decades. Not much to go wrong there, except:

...string gauge outside the range that a trapeze tailpiece normally work with.

> 1) check for slackness in the bridge screws - it's an adjustable
> bridge and either screws or the plastic/metal/whatever that's carrying
> the strings could be worn and your intonation is going out as you
> play, especially if you are in the habit of resting the heel of your
> hand on the bridge whilst taking a solo - they can take a bashing - in
> which case you need a new bridge - replacing the adjusting screws
> would be tortuous, and:

See below.

> 2) The tuners are knackered. You don't say how old the guitar is or
> how much it's played so I have no idea of the mileage on it - if
> you've had it 10 years the tuners will prolly be screwed even if you
> only change the strings every 6 months, depending on the bashing it
> gets a home, let alone gigs.

I'll bet that this guitar is nearly new (and equipped with a three-per-side 
headstock). The original Hagstrom Viking (with the Fender-style headstock) is 
rare. The chances of the tuners being worn out (the originals were fitted 
with Dutch-made Van Ghent units, BTW) are low.

> 3) you might just need a good set-up, although if that were the case
> you'd NEVER get it in tune because the neck would be out.

More like it. Especially the nut. But I'd bet it's really due to an 
inappropriately low string gauge. Guitars with a trapeze tailpiece and 
floating bridge (whether or not anchored to the body) really shouldn't be 
fitted with strings lighter than about 11-50 (and that's stretching it).

On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 00:45:59 +0100, JNugent
 wrote:

>anything@contractorcom.com wrote:
>> On Wed, 16 Sep 2009 15:56:33 +0100, John <john@invalid.invalid> wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi all - new here! I have a cherry Hagstrom Viking. It's a gorgeous 
>>> guitar, I love it. But it does have an annoying tendency to go out of 
>>> tune quite a lot. The strings are well stretched by now so it 's not 
>>> that. I was thinking of taking it to an expert to see if there are any 
>>> customisations that can be done to improve the tuning but which don't 
>>> fundamentally affects the sound of the guitar. What do you guys think? 
>>> Is this realistic? I'm not too aesthetically pleased with the tuning 
>>> pegs either so I was thinking of changing those at the least, even if it 
>>> had no impact on the tuning. Is this likely to affect the sound though? 
>>> The spec of the Viking can be found here:
>>>
>>> http://www.hagstrom-guitars.co.uk/3124.0.html?&L=hogblffqob
>>>
>>> Looking forward to hearing your thoughts!
>>>
>>> J.
>> 
>> I can't see much wrong with the specs except it has Hagstrom tuners.
>> The bridge is a reliable Gibson design and the floating anchoring bit
>> (I can't remember the proper name for it) is to a design that has been
>> around on archtops for decades. Not much to go wrong there, except:
>
>...string gauge outside the range that a trapeze tailpiece normally work with.
>
>> 1) check for slackness in the bridge screws - it's an adjustable
>> bridge and either screws or the plastic/metal/whatever that's carrying
>> the strings could be worn and your intonation is going out as you
>> play, especially if you are in the habit of resting the heel of your
>> hand on the bridge whilst taking a solo - they can take a bashing - in
>> which case you need a new bridge - replacing the adjusting screws
>> would be tortuous, and:
>
>See below.
>
>> 2) The tuners are knackered. You don't say how old the guitar is or
>> how much it's played so I have no idea of the mileage on it - if
>> you've had it 10 years the tuners will prolly be screwed even if you
>> only change the strings every 6 months, depending on the bashing it
>> gets a home, let alone gigs.
>
>I'll bet that this guitar is nearly new (and equipped with a three-per-side 
>headstock). The original Hagstrom Viking (with the Fender-style headstock) is 
>rare. The chances of the tuners being worn out (the originals were fitted 
>with Dutch-made Van Ghent units, BTW) are low.
>
>> 3) you might just need a good set-up, although if that were the case
>> you'd NEVER get it in tune because the neck would be out.
>
>More like it. Especially the nut. But I'd bet it's really due to an 
>inappropriately low string gauge. Guitars with a trapeze tailpiece and 
>floating bridge (whether or not anchored to the body) really shouldn't be 
>fitted with strings lighter than about 11-50 (and that's stretching it).

Thanks for the trapeze tailpice reminder - that one had me stuck
for..um..exactly as long as it took to realise I could look it up or
make the post..:-)

I don't think the OP has a big problem either way, but he needs to
speak to someone who can identify it. John's string weights would be
interesting to know. As you say, 11-50's are light on anything except
solidbodies.

Pete (Jeez - I use 11-52's on my Tele and it still skids around..)

On 17 Sep, 00:45, JNugent  wrote:
> anyth...@contractorcom.com wrote:

>
> More like it. Especially the nut. But I'd bet it's really due to an
> inappropriately low string gauge. Guitars with a trapeze tailpiece and
> floating bridge (whether or not anchored to the body) really shouldn't be
> fitted with strings lighter than about 11-50 (and that's stretching it).

I disagree, My Yamaha violin guitar has a trapeze tailpiece and it
stays in tune with 9's with no issues. The only difference is that
it's a solid body electric.

I would reccoment to the original poster that he puts graphite (pencil
lead) in the nut and always tunes up i.e. when tuning tune the peg
down below the note then wind teh peg up to the note. Tuning down to
the note can lead to gear slipage if bending strings etc.

On 17 Sep, 12:48, Pablo  wrote:
> On 17 Sep, 00:45, JNugent  wrote:
>
> > anyth...@contractorcom.com wrote:
>
> > More like it. Especially the nut. But I'd bet it's really due to an
> > inappropriately low string gauge. Guitars with a trapeze tailpiece and
> > floating bridge (whether or not anchored to the body) really shouldn't be
> > fitted with strings lighter than about 11-50 (and that's stretching it).
>
> I disagree, My Yamaha violin guitar has a trapeze tailpiece and it
> stays in tune with 9's with no issues. The only difference is that
> it's a solid body electric.
>
> I would reccoment to the original poster that he puts graphite (pencil
> lead) in the nut and always tunes up i.e. when tuning tune the peg
> down below the note then wind teh peg up to the note. Tuning down to
> the note can lead to gear slipage if bending strings etc.

As well as at the nut, strings also stick at the bridge. Any grooves
in the saddles should also be polished and lubricated in a similar way
to the nut.

Also the manner of stringing is a common factor. If strings aren't
locked on properly or have too many (or too few) windings then they
can slip at the tuner.

Steve.