Bloody Rover has failed its MOT. First MOT failure I've had in four 
years. Still, only on the handbrake - 80kg each side which is a bit 
comforting. Tried tightening the cable but it looks like the rear 
calipers need the pads taking out, winding back and resetting.

-- 
Conor

-You wanted an argument? Oh I'm sorry, but this is abuse. You want room 
K5, just along the corridor. Stupid git. (Monty Python)

> Bloody Rover has failed its MOT. First MOT failure I've had in four
> years. Still, only on the handbrake - 80kg each side which is a bit
> comforting. Tried tightening the cable but it looks like the rear
> calipers need the pads taking out, winding back and resetting.


Winding back?  By that do you mean that the pistons want pushing back?  If 
that's the case, then surely it's just worn brake pads?

Peter

In article <CJyte.29810$iy2.7636@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net>, AstraVanMan 
says...

> > Bloody Rover has failed its MOT. First MOT failure I've had in four
> > years. Still, only on the handbrake - 80kg each side which is a bit
> > comforting. Tried tightening the cable but it looks like the rear
> > calipers need the pads taking out, winding back and resetting.
> 
> Winding back?  By that do you mean that the pistons want pushing back?  If 
> that's the case, then surely it's just worn brake pads?
> 

No, winding back as in screwing back in. Alot of rear calipers self 
adjust by the means of a threaded piston. Pads are fine, plenty of meat 
on them.



-- 
Conor

-You wanted an argument? Oh I'm sorry, but this is abuse. You want room 
K5, just along the corridor. Stupid git. (Monty Python)

"Conor"  wrote in message
news:MPG.1d20d03b1fa347e498a017@news.individual.net...

> In article <CJyte.29810$iy2.7636@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net>, AstraVanMan
> says...
> > > Bloody Rover has failed its MOT. First MOT failure I've had in four
> > > years. Still, only on the handbrake - 80kg each side which is a bit
> > > comforting. Tried tightening the cable but it looks like the rear
> > > calipers need the pads taking out, winding back and resetting.
> >
> > Winding back?  By that do you mean that the pistons want pushing back?
If
> > that's the case, then surely it's just worn brake pads?
> >
> No, winding back as in screwing back in. Alot of rear calipers self
> adjust by the means of a threaded piston. Pads are fine, plenty of meat
> on them.
>
>

Winding them in is to make room for the extra thickness of new pads. It will
not improve your efficiency. Effectively you will be un-adjusting them and
the threaded piston will come out again, and until it does so you will have
almost zero brakes..

The poor efficiency is due to a lack of friction. Are you sure that
adjusting the cable has not improved matters? Have you jacked it up and
tried to turn the wheels by hand with the handbrake on?

Steve

> > > > Bloody Rover has failed its MOT. First MOT failure I've had in four
> > > > years. Still, only on the handbrake - 80kg each side which is a bit
> > > > comforting. Tried tightening the cable but it looks like the rear
> > > > calipers need the pads taking out, winding back and resetting.
> > >
> > > Winding back?  By that do you mean that the pistons want pushing back?
> If
> > > that's the case, then surely it's just worn brake pads?
> > >
> > No, winding back as in screwing back in. Alot of rear calipers self
> > adjust by the means of a threaded piston. Pads are fine, plenty of meat
> > on them.
> >
> >
> Winding them in is to make room for the extra thickness of new pads. It
will
> not improve your efficiency. Effectively you will be un-adjusting them and
> the threaded piston will come out again, and until it does so you will
have
> almost zero brakes..
>
> The poor efficiency is due to a lack of friction. Are you sure that
> adjusting the cable has not improved matters? Have you jacked it up and
> tried to turn the wheels by hand with the handbrake on?
>

From the description, it sounds like someone has tried adjusting the
handbrake cable, when it was the callipers that were out of adjustment.
Adjust the handbrake cable so that the levers on the calliper are completely
at their rest position, when the handbrake is released, then pump the
brake/handbrake a few times, to let the callipers adjust themselves up.
There should be no free-play in the cable, but the levers should not be
pulled at all with the handbrake released.
It may be that one of the adjusters has failed in the calliper, and whoever
adjusted the handbrake did it that way to try and compensate.

In article <d96jjg$kal$3@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk>, shazzbat says...


> Winding them in is to make room for the extra thickness of new pads. It will
> not improve your efficiency. Effectively you will be un-adjusting them and
> the threaded piston will come out again, and until it does so you will have
> almost zero brakes..
> 

Yes, this I know.


> The poor efficiency is due to a lack of friction. Are you sure that
> adjusting the cable has not improved matters? 

Yes.

> Have you jacked it up and
> tried to turn the wheels by hand with the handbrake on?
> 

Even better, done it with the aid of the brake tester at the MOT 
station.


-- 
Conor

-You wanted an argument? Oh I'm sorry, but this is abuse. You want room 
K5, just along the corridor. Stupid git. (Monty Python)

In article <d96uqc$7cf$1@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com>, SimonJ 
says...


> From the description, it sounds like someone has tried adjusting the
> handbrake cable, when it was the callipers that were out of adjustment.
> Adjust the handbrake cable so that the levers on the calliper are completely
> at their rest position, when the handbrake is released, then pump the
> brake/handbrake a few times, to let the callipers adjust themselves up.
> There should be no free-play in the cable, but the levers should not be
> pulled at all with the handbrake released.
> It may be that one of the adjusters has failed in the calliper, and whoever
> adjusted the handbrake did it that way to try and compensate.
> 

Absolutely spot on Simon both in the assessment and the required fix. 
Apparently its a common problem on these Rovers.


-- 
Conor

-You wanted an argument? Oh I'm sorry, but this is abuse. You want room 
K5, just along the corridor. Stupid git. (Monty Python)

>> From the description, it sounds like someone has tried adjusting the
>> handbrake cable, when it was the callipers that were out of adjustment.
>> Adjust the handbrake cable so that the levers on the calliper are 
>> completely
>> at their rest position, when the handbrake is released, then pump the
>> brake/handbrake a few times, to let the callipers adjust themselves up.
>> There should be no free-play in the cable, but the levers should not be
>> pulled at all with the handbrake released.
>> It may be that one of the adjusters has failed in the calliper, and 
>> whoever
>> adjusted the handbrake did it that way to try and compensate.
>>
> Absolutely spot on Simon both in the assessment and the required fix.
> Apparently its a common problem on these Rovers.


If you buy a new or reconditioned calliper it will come with a warning not 
to apply the handbrake until all the free play has been taken up 
hydraulically (I.a. by the footbrake), otherwise it damages something or 
other inside.  IIRC Granados use the same type of callipers on the rear, if 
not identical, though I haven't heard of any experiencing the same 
problem...

Darren

"Conor"  wrote in message
news:MPG.1d2238908a57731498a027@news.individual.net...

> In article <d96jjg$kal$3@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk>, shazzbat says...
>
> > Winding them in is to make room for the extra thickness of new pads. It
will
> > not improve your efficiency. Effectively you will be un-adjusting them
and
> > the threaded piston will come out again, and until it does so you will
have
> > almost zero brakes..
> >
> Yes, this I know.
>

I'm confused now. What function did you expect winding them back to achieve?

Steve