| |
Chainsaw woes...
Hi All
I bought a cheap Electric chainsaw (Powerdevil 16" 60) to cut some logs for
the winter. Everything was going well but after about 3 weeks (evenings and
weekends), the motor started spinning without the chain moving. I'd looked
after it, cleaning it after each use, ensuring oil was topped up, tensionong
etc...
I assumed that it was my fault I'd bought one not really up to the job, so I
upgraded to a 2.2kw McCulloch Titanium, and it initially worked like a
dream, hot knife through butter. BUT.... After about 2 hours use, there was
a screech and exactly the same problem as the power devil happened on this
one. The moter runs, but the chain doesn't. On investigation, the teeth
between the cog and the chain are properly interlinked, its just as soon as
any load what so ever is put on the chain, the cog stops rotating.
Once unlucky, twice... well now I'm worried. Is it me? Have I gotten oil
into the clutch mechanism, are they designed to break after x hours use, and
I'm working them too hard
has any one else had a similar experience???
thanks
Andy
Date:Tue, 14 Jun 2005 10:21:05 +0100
Author:
|
Re: Chainsaw woes...
"aaj" wrote in message
news:1118740865.7477c8488bff7034d414d08f906bfc32@teranews...
> Hi All
>
> I bought a cheap Electric chainsaw (Powerdevil 16" 60) to cut some logs
for
> the winter. Everything was going well but after about 3 weeks (evenings
and
> weekends), the motor started spinning without the chain moving. I'd looked
> after it, cleaning it after each use, ensuring oil was topped up,
tensionong
> etc...
>
> I assumed that it was my fault I'd bought one not really up to the job, so
I
> upgraded to a 2.2kw McCulloch Titanium, and it initially worked like a
> dream, hot knife through butter. BUT.... After about 2 hours use, there
was
> a screech and exactly the same problem as the power devil happened on this
> one. The moter runs, but the chain doesn't. On investigation, the teeth
> between the cog and the chain are properly interlinked, its just as soon
as
> any load what so ever is put on the chain, the cog stops
>
> thanks
>
> Andy
You must expect power devil stuff to pack up -usually I'd get a warranty
replacement and wait for that to do same- then a refund as its not fit for
the purpose. I don't know about how good McCulloch stuff really is but
,surely it's under warranty? I got a Bosch from safeways last year only 55.
Date:Tue, 14 Jun 2005 12:41:11 +0100
Author:
|
Re: Chainsaw woes...
hi
I thought the same, and to be fair Argos replaced the power devil no
problems, but even for cheaper equipment three weeks using it for less than
2 hours a night seems pretty poor.
I went to the McColloch, because its supposed to be a good make. this broke
after only a few hours.
If I have to change it every 2 hours, its going to take a while to cut
through my pile of logs 9-)
this is why I'm wondering if its something i'm doing?
cheers
Andy
"spakker" wrote in message
news:NF2dnURezJjJXzPfSa8jmA@karoo.co.uk...
>
> "aaj" wrote in message
> news:1118740865.7477c8488bff7034d414d08f906bfc32@teranews...
>> Hi All
>>
>> I bought a cheap Electric chainsaw (Powerdevil 16" 60) to cut some logs
> for
>> the winter. Everything was going well but after about 3 weeks (evenings
> and
>> weekends), the motor started spinning without the chain moving. I'd
>> looked
>> after it, cleaning it after each use, ensuring oil was topped up,
> tensionong
>> etc...
>>
>> I assumed that it was my fault I'd bought one not really up to the job,
>> so
> I
>> upgraded to a 2.2kw McCulloch Titanium, and it initially worked like a
>> dream, hot knife through butter. BUT.... After about 2 hours use, there
> was
>> a screech and exactly the same problem as the power devil happened on
>> this
>> one. The moter runs, but the chain doesn't. On investigation, the teeth
>> between the cog and the chain are properly interlinked, its just as soon
> as
>> any load what so ever is put on the chain, the cog stops
>>
>> thanks
>>
>> Andy
> You must expect power devil stuff to pack up -usually I'd get a warranty
> replacement and wait for that to do same- then a refund as its not fit for
> the purpose. I don't know about how good McCulloch stuff really is but
> ,surely it's under warranty? I got a Bosch from safeways last year only
> 55.
>
>
Date:Tue, 14 Jun 2005 13:02:05 +0100
Author:
|
Re: Chainsaw woes...
"aaj" wrote in message
news:1118750529.7dc3db669c0e5ba8ae179d8b704d9f1a@teranews...
> hi
>
> I thought the same, and to be fair Argos replaced the power devil no
> problems, but even for cheaper equipment three weeks using it for less
than
> 2 hours a night seems pretty poor.
>
> I went to the McColloch, because its supposed to be a good make. this
broke
> after only a few hours.
>
> If I have to change it every 2 hours, its going to take a while to cut
> through my pile of logs 9-)
>
> this is why I'm wondering if its something i'm doing?
>
> cheers
>
> Andy
>
You do know not to press with any huge weight on the saw, allowing it to cut
through at its own pace. I have known people to use an all mighty pressure
on the saw in the thinking that it will cut faster, but this isn't the case
at all. The saw should be held on the job and not pressured in to cutting.
The more force you put on it, the more it will slow down the chain and put
huge strain on the clutch.
Are you also placing the back of the chain on the cut? If you are, then
you're only dragging debris in to the motor and clutch housing, which is not
good for the machines at all. You should be using the point of the saw, up
to the point where the length of chain you use is only sufficient to cut the
whole job through. Don't keep the body of the machine against the side of
the log while cutting, as it too puts huge strain on the motor and clutch.
Date:Tue, 14 Jun 2005 13:16:36 GMT
Author:
|
Re: Chainsaw woes...
Hi Big Wallop
thanks for the ideas
Only gentle force used, especially with the McCulloch, it almost dragged
itsself through.
The intersting bit is where you talked about the part of the chain used for
the cut. When I looked in the manual, it says its safest to use the Spike
Bar on the front of the housing, so as to avoid slipping. By doing this, the
cutting part of the chain is close to the housing (depending on the radius
of the wood). That said, when the McColloch gave up, I tool the housing off
and there wasn't too much residue inside.
One thing though, when I topped up the oil I spilt some over the housing, is
there anyway it could have seeped in to the housing?
Andy
"BigWallop" wrote in message
news:UMAre.50290$G8.32631@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>
> "aaj" wrote in message
> news:1118750529.7dc3db669c0e5ba8ae179d8b704d9f1a@teranews...
>> hi
>>
>> I thought the same, and to be fair Argos replaced the power devil no
>> problems, but even for cheaper equipment three weeks using it for less
> than
>> 2 hours a night seems pretty poor.
>>
>> I went to the McColloch, because its supposed to be a good make. this
> broke
>> after only a few hours.
>>
>> If I have to change it every 2 hours, its going to take a while to cut
>> through my pile of logs 9-)
>>
>> this is why I'm wondering if its something i'm doing?
>>
>> cheers
>>
>> Andy
>>
> You do know not to press with any huge weight on the saw, allowing it to
> cut
> through at its own pace. I have known people to use an all mighty
> pressure
> on the saw in the thinking that it will cut faster, but this isn't the
> case
> at all. The saw should be held on the job and not pressured in to
> cutting.
> The more force you put on it, the more it will slow down the chain and put
> huge strain on the clutch.
>
> Are you also placing the back of the chain on the cut? If you are, then
> you're only dragging debris in to the motor and clutch housing, which is
> not
> good for the machines at all. You should be using the point of the saw,
> up
> to the point where the length of chain you use is only sufficient to cut
> the
> whole job through. Don't keep the body of the machine against the side of
> the log while cutting, as it too puts huge strain on the motor and clutch.
>
>
Date:Tue, 14 Jun 2005 15:46:42 +0100
Author:
|
Re: Chainsaw woes...
"aaj" wrote in message
news:1118760405.29b5325be8935427283623fdfd7114ed@teranews...
> Hi Big Wallop
>
> thanks for the ideas
>
> Only gentle force used, especially with the McCulloch, it almost dragged
> itsself through.
>
> The intersting bit is where you talked about the part of the chain used
for
> the cut. When I looked in the manual, it says its safest to use the Spike
> Bar on the front of the housing, so as to avoid slipping. By doing this,
the
> cutting part of the chain is close to the housing (depending on the radius
> of the wood). That said, when the McColloch gave up, I tool the housing
off
> and there wasn't too much residue inside.
>
> One thing though, when I topped up the oil I spilt some over the housing,
is
> there anyway it could have seeped in to the housing?
>
> Andy
>
If you have allowed oil or grease on to the clutch pads, then it's time for
new pads, and you'll also need to clean off the drum with metholated spirit
or some other de-greaser. Even soaking the pads in a de-greaser won't get
clean enough to work properly.
Another few thing I did forget to ask were, are you cutting down in to the
logs? Are you jamming the chain in a collapsing cut? Do you use wedges to
hold the cut open? Do you cut from below upward to stop the chain getting
stuck as the timber weakens and collapses?
Your manual is correct in stating the safest way to use the saw, but
experience shows that using the tip of the chain is much easier on the
workings of the machines. That's as long as you know what to watch out for
in kick-back and pull-in with the different techniques used.
It's just funny how you've done the same thing to two different machines
though, but I'm not saying you're doing everything completely wrong by that
statement. What I mean is, it could just be the techniques you're using in
cutting methods, and that maybe a change in style is needed. Cutting loose
logs is best done with the log up off the ground, supported on blocks or
proper trestles, and cut from below upward. This means that the cut isn't
closing around the chain when the wood starts to collapse in on the section
you're removing. This will strain the motor and clutch.
Date:Tue, 14 Jun 2005 15:13:52 GMT
Author:
|
Re: Chainsaw woes...
"aaj" wrote in message
news:1118760405.29b5325be8935427283623fdfd7114ed@teranews...
> Hi Big Wallop
>
> thanks for the ideas
>
> Only gentle force used, especially with the McCulloch, it almost dragged
> itsself through.
>
> The intersting bit is where you talked about the part of the chain used
for
> the cut. When I looked in the manual, it says its safest to use the Spike
> Bar on the front of the housing, so as to avoid slipping. By doing this,
the
> cutting part of the chain is close to the housing (depending on the radius
> of the wood). That said, when the McColloch gave up, I tool the housing
off
> and there wasn't too much residue inside.
>
> One thing though, when I topped up the oil I spilt some over the housing,
is
> there anyway it could have seeped in to the housing?
>
> Andy
>
>
>
> "BigWallop" wrote in message
> news:UMAre.50290$G8.32631@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
> >
> > "aaj" wrote in message
> > news:1118750529.7dc3db669c0e5ba8ae179d8b704d9f1a@teranews...
> >> hi
> >>
> >> I thought the same, and to be fair Argos replaced the power devil no
> >> problems, but even for cheaper equipment three weeks using it for less
> > than
> >> 2 hours a night seems pretty poor.
> >>
> >> I went to the McColloch, because its supposed to be a good make. this
> > broke
> >> after only a few hours.
> >>
> >> If I have to change it every 2 hours, its going to take a while to cut
> >> through my pile of logs 9-)
> >>
> >> this is why I'm wondering if its something i'm doing?
> >>
> >> cheers
> >>
> >> Andy
> >>
> > You do know not to press with any huge weight on the saw, allowing it to
> > cut
> > through at its own pace. I have known people to use an all mighty
> > pressure
> > on the saw in the thinking that it will cut faster, but this isn't the
> > case
> > at all. The saw should be held on the job and not pressured in to
> > cutting.
> > The more force you put on it, the more it will slow down the chain and
put
> > huge strain on the clutch.
> >
> > Are you also placing the back of the chain on the cut? If you are, then
> > you're only dragging debris in to the motor and clutch housing, which is
> > not
> > good for the machines at all. You should be using the point of the saw,
> > up
> > to the point where the length of chain you use is only sufficient to cut
> > the
> > whole job through. Don't keep the body of the machine against the side
of
> > the log while cutting, as it too puts huge strain on the motor and
clutch.
> >
This might be a daft question, but have you activated the brake? There is a
'kick-back' safety device on most of these things that will stop the blade
from operating.
Date:Tue, 14 Jun 2005 22:27:39 +0100
Author:
|
Re: Chainsaw woes...
No, the brake is deffinately not engaged (wish it was , would make lie much
easier)
"Barney" wrote in message
news:97idnWq3WaWl1jLfRVnyhw@brightview.com...
>
> "aaj" wrote in message
> news:1118760405.29b5325be8935427283623fdfd7114ed@teranews...
>> Hi Big Wallop
>>
>> thanks for the ideas
>>
>> Only gentle force used, especially with the McCulloch, it almost dragged
>> itsself through.
>>
>> The intersting bit is where you talked about the part of the chain used
> for
>> the cut. When I looked in the manual, it says its safest to use the Spike
>> Bar on the front of the housing, so as to avoid slipping. By doing this,
> the
>> cutting part of the chain is close to the housing (depending on the
>> radius
>> of the wood). That said, when the McColloch gave up, I tool the housing
> off
>> and there wasn't too much residue inside.
>>
>> One thing though, when I topped up the oil I spilt some over the housing,
> is
>> there anyway it could have seeped in to the housing?
>>
>> Andy
>>
>>
>>
>> "BigWallop" wrote in message
>> news:UMAre.50290$G8.32631@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk...
>> >
>> > "aaj" wrote in message
>> > news:1118750529.7dc3db669c0e5ba8ae179d8b704d9f1a@teranews...
>> >> hi
>> >>
>> >> I thought the same, and to be fair Argos replaced the power devil no
>> >> problems, but even for cheaper equipment three weeks using it for less
>> > than
>> >> 2 hours a night seems pretty poor.
>> >>
>> >> I went to the McColloch, because its supposed to be a good make. this
>> > broke
>> >> after only a few hours.
>> >>
>> >> If I have to change it every 2 hours, its going to take a while to cut
>> >> through my pile of logs 9-)
>> >>
>> >> this is why I'm wondering if its something i'm doing?
>> >>
>> >> cheers
>> >>
>> >> Andy
>> >>
>> > You do know not to press with any huge weight on the saw, allowing it
>> > to
>> > cut
>> > through at its own pace. I have known people to use an all mighty
>> > pressure
>> > on the saw in the thinking that it will cut faster, but this isn't the
>> > case
>> > at all. The saw should be held on the job and not pressured in to
>> > cutting.
>> > The more force you put on it, the more it will slow down the chain and
> put
>> > huge strain on the clutch.
>> >
>> > Are you also placing the back of the chain on the cut? If you are,
>> > then
>> > you're only dragging debris in to the motor and clutch housing, which
>> > is
>> > not
>> > good for the machines at all. You should be using the point of the
>> > saw,
>> > up
>> > to the point where the length of chain you use is only sufficient to
>> > cut
>> > the
>> > whole job through. Don't keep the body of the machine against the side
> of
>> > the log while cutting, as it too puts huge strain on the motor and
> clutch.
>> >
>
> This might be a daft question, but have you activated the brake? There is
> a
> 'kick-back' safety device on most of these things that will stop the blade
> from operating.
>
>
Date:Wed, 15 Jun 2005 12:07:58 +0100
Author:
|
|