Hi Group

I have a small dug garden area with a crazy paved path across it, which 
shows no sign of cracking or upheaval.

I want to pave over the entire area, including where the path is, with new 
paving slabs, 600x 300 size.

It will save a lot of work if I leave the path well alone, and make a hard 
core layer on the garden around the path, and to the same level, and then 
lay new slabs across the lot.

Is there a problem with laying new paving directly onto the old existing 
path?

I anticipate using the method of a dollop of concrete under each corner of 
the new slabs. the new area will only be for human use - not to have heavy 
motors on it, for example.

any advice appreciated

Ian

"Ian Hooksem"  wrote in message 
news:wUrae.1912$wu2.1091@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...

> Hi Group
>
> I have a small dug garden area with a crazy paved path across it, which 
> shows no sign of cracking or upheaval.
>
> I want to pave over the entire area, including where the path is, with new 
> paving slabs, 600x 300 size.
>
> It will save a lot of work if I leave the path well alone, and make a hard 
> core layer on the garden around the path, and to the same level, and then 
> lay new slabs across the lot.
>
> Is there a problem with laying new paving directly onto the old existing 
> path?
>
> I anticipate using the method of a dollop of concrete under each corner of 
> the new slabs. the new area will only be for human use - not to have heavy 
> motors on it, for example.
>
> any advice appreciated
>
> Ian

If it aint broke, ya don't need to fix it!

If there are no cracks or visible settlement in the crazy paving which has 
clearly been down for a while, leave it well alone.

The only possible problem may be differential settlement.  i.e. if the 
hardcore area isn't as strong as the crazy paving, over time you may notice 
settlement of your new paviours in these areas, and some cracking.  This is 
a serious problem with bridge structures (my day job) but unlikely to be an 
issue for you as long as you compact properly.

As for dabs of mortar, make it five, like a dice.  This method doesn't work 
so well with skinny slabs less than 35mm thick. In that case either use a 
dry sand cement mix about 7/1, or a thin mortar bed all over, about 5/1 
should be sufficient.  I prefer the latter, it gives a great solid finish if 
done properly, dry sand/cement can be difficult for the layman(like me!) esp 
getting slabs to bed firmly.  Mortar bed doesn't have to be solid, I 
generally cut it up with a trowel so it looks like tile grout, then press 
slabs into place.

Good luck

Al

Al wrote:

>
> As for dabs of mortar, make it five, like a dice.  This method
> doesn't work so well with skinny slabs less than 35mm thick. In that
> case either use a dry sand cement mix about 7/1, or a thin mortar bed
> all over, about 5/1 should be sufficient.  I prefer the latter, it
> gives a great solid finish if done properly, dry sand/cement can be
> difficult for the layman(like me!) esp getting slabs to bed firmly. Mortar 
> bed doesn't have to be solid, I generally cut it up with a
> trowel so it looks like tile grout, then press slabs into place.



The oft neglected point about the "5-spot method" is that properly done (big 
dabs not minging fist sized dabs) you end up with virtually a complete bed 
as the mortar spots coalesce as the slab is pressed down. It makes it far 
easier for the lay-man (groan) toget the levels right  - dry bed is a bugger 
to do for the amateur.

pk

thanks for the advice
Ian

"Ian Hooksem"  wrote in message 
news:wUrae.1912$wu2.1091@newsfe1-gui.ntli.net...

> Hi Group
>
> I have a small dug garden area with a crazy paved path across it, which 
> shows no sign of cracking or upheaval.
>
> I want to pave over the entire area, including where the path is, with new 
> paving slabs, 600x 300 size.
>
> It will save a lot of work if I leave the path well alone, and make a hard 
> core layer on the garden around the path, and to the same level, and then 
> lay new slabs across the lot.
>
> Is there a problem with laying new paving directly onto the old existing 
> path?
>
> I anticipate using the method of a dollop of concrete under each corner of 
> the new slabs. the new area will only be for human use - not to have heavy 
> motors on it, for example.
>
> any advice appreciated
>
> Ian
>
>
>