I am dry lining a room with plaster boards, and then skimming the boards. 
Is it best to put wooden battens behind the boards where I am fitting a 
radiator (for the brackets), or are the plaster boards sufficient strength 
to hold the radiator if I drill straight through to wall.  Any advice or 
suggestions would be appreciated.
Thanks
Neil

In article <dgtqcp$2ov$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>,
   Neil  wrote:

> I am dry lining a room with plaster boards, and then skimming the boards. 
> Is it best to put wooden battens behind the boards where I am fitting a 
> radiator (for the brackets), or are the plaster boards sufficient strength 
> to hold the radiator if I drill straight through to wall.  Any advice or 
> suggestions would be appreciated.


I'd say it depends on the radiator - the one I've just fitted needs as much
support as you can give it! - but even a light radiator will have exceptional
requirements eg when someone uses it as a prop to pull themselves upright
after picking up something they dropped behind the radiator.

-- 
	John Cartmell	john@ followed by finnybank.com	  0845 006 8822
	Qercus magazine	FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527		www.finnybank.com
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Neil wrote:


> I am dry lining a room with plaster boards, and then skimming the boards. 
> Is it best to put wooden battens behind the boards where I am fitting a 
> radiator (for the brackets), or are the plaster boards sufficient strength 
> to hold the radiator if I drill straight through to wall.  Any advice or 
> suggestions would be appreciated.


The diffculty of drilling striaght through to the wall is that you may 
"pull in" the plasterboard as you tighten the fixings - leaving a bowed 
finish. So it would be better if you could stick some battens behind the 
plasterboard where the radiator will go. That will support the 
plasterboard when you tighten the brackets.

The alternative is to sleave the fixings - so drill the wall as usual, 
but make a larger hole in the PB. Then insert a drilled wood plug the 
same length as the distance from the finish face of the plasterboard to 
the wall surface so that you have something to tighten the brackets 
against.

-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
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Yes.
If you can measure it accurately, have the extra
wooden battens placed vertical so that the
weight of the radiator goes down to the floor
rather than adding extra noggins (sp?) between
the existing studs.

Before adding the plasterboard, you may wish to
drill one-inch holes in the middle of any bracing noggins as a
contingency for cables in the
future (if so, thread a piece of string through these
to make life easier later).
And insulation beneath the plasterboard for sound
retention (and/or heat retention) whilst you are
there?

Though it may be perceived that a radiator is not
*that* heavy, there may come the day when that
single panel gets replaced with a double panel...

My father being a joiner (carpenter), he always stated
that before he would attach a waist-height shelf
in an office he would ascertain the weight of
the heaviest worker.
The reasoning behind this is that some day someone
will sit on the shelf, even if it was commissioned
only for light goods.
Ditto for radiators: someone's cheeks will adorn it one day.


HTH

Mungo

I am using board adhesive for boards.  Would it be sufficient to use extra 
adhesive where radiator brackets are to be fitted?
Thanks
Neil
 wrote in message 
news:1127383616.532583.327520@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

> Yes.
> If you can measure it accurately, have the extra
> wooden battens placed vertical so that the
> weight of the radiator goes down to the floor
> rather than adding extra noggins (sp?) between
> the existing studs.
>
> Before adding the plasterboard, you may wish to
> drill one-inch holes in the middle of any bracing noggins as a
> contingency for cables in the
> future (if so, thread a piece of string through these
> to make life easier later).
> And insulation beneath the plasterboard for sound
> retention (and/or heat retention) whilst you are
> there?
>
> Though it may be perceived that a radiator is not
> *that* heavy, there may come the day when that
> single panel gets replaced with a double panel...
>
> My father being a joiner (carpenter), he always stated
> that before he would attach a waist-height shelf
> in an office he would ascertain the weight of
> the heaviest worker.
> The reasoning behind this is that some day someone
> will sit on the shelf, even if it was commissioned
> only for light goods.
> Ditto for radiators: someone's cheeks will adorn it one day.
>
>
> HTH
>
> Mungo
> 

What's the board adhesive for (he said, admitting ignorance)?

Mungo

"Neil"  wrote in message 
news:dgu0c9$o1c$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...

>I am using board adhesive for boards.  Would it be sufficient to use extra 
>adhesive where radiator brackets are to be fitted?
> Thanks
> Neil


Yes Neil,
Just use plenty of extra board adhesive behind the plasterboard around and 
exceeding the area which the radiator will be fitted, if you know the exact 
position the brackets will be fitted then use a solid band of adhesive as 
once set, the adhesive will take a fixing very well.
Franko.

Neil wrote:


> I am using board adhesive for boards.  Would it be sufficient to use extra 
> adhesive where radiator brackets are to be fitted?


If you are then drilling right through it into a solid wall, and that is 
taking the bulk of the fixing load then yes.

-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
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|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
\=================================================================/

mungoh@gmail.com wrote:

> What's the board adhesive for (he said, admitting ignorance)?
> 
> Mungo
> 

Methinks the OP is lining a solid wall with plasterboard, not creating a 
stud partition as I think you interpreted it

On 22 Sep,  
     "Neil"  wrote:


> I am using board adhesive for boards.  Would it be sufficient to use extra 
> adhesive where radiator brackets are to be fitted?


That's how I did it for heavy loads, extra dabs where the fixings go. (then
she changes her mind as to where they go!) 



-- 
  B Thumbs
  Change lycos to yahoo to reply

Neil wrote:

> I am dry lining a room with plaster boards, and then skimming the boards. 
> Is it best to put wooden battens behind the boards where I am fitting a 
> radiator (for the brackets)


Yes, absolutely. Make sure they're plenty wide/long enough.

Thanks to all for advice.  I am doing it tomorrow and will put extra 
adhesive in way of radiator brackets.  Is it better to put a solid vertical 
run where boards butt each other.? ( I know it is going away from original 
query but I just thought about it.
Neil

Ta Richard, I was off on the wrong track.
My reason for posting originally is that I am about
to replace a radiator in my son's bedroom and the
wall that it will be fixed to is a stud partition.
Hence the presumption that this poster had the
same scenario.

Mungo

P.S. Anyone want to turn up at my house and
do the re-plumbing of the radiator next week?
My request relates to the gap you will work in:
fourteen inches wide, about the same tall and
the roof slopes down at 45 degrees.
Problem 1: worm into the space.
Problem 2: now do some plumbing... eeek!
:-)

"Neil"  wrote in message 
news:dgu7eg$hct$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...

> Thanks to all for advice.  I am doing it tomorrow and will put extra 
> adhesive in way of radiator brackets.  Is it better to put a solid 
> vertical run where boards butt each other.? ( I know it is going away from 
> original query but I just thought about it.
> Neil

No need for a solid run of adhesive on the joints as long as the dabs are 
close enough together, it's a good idea to solid dab the skirting & ceiling 
line and any internal angles though - plus solid dab around any services eg: 
sockets etc.
Franko.

In article <1127392135.560394.140670@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com

>, mungoh@gmail.com writes
>P.S. Anyone want to turn up at my house and
>do the re-plumbing of the radiator next week?
>My request relates to the gap you will work in:
>fourteen inches wide, about the same tall and
>the roof slopes down at 45 degrees.
>Problem 1: worm into the space.
>Problem 2: now do some plumbing... eeek!
>:-)


Oooh, I can feel some plastic plumbing coming on . . .
-- 
fred

> No need for a solid run of adhesive on the joints as long as the dabs are 
> close enough together, it's a good idea to solid dab the skirting & 
> ceiling line and any internal angles though - plus solid dab around any 
> services eg: sockets etc.
> Franko.



That's great thanks.  What is the maximum space between wall and board when 
using the dab method?.  When I put door casing in I let it to far into room 
and think I may have to batten that wall.  The door frames is 11/2 inches 
from wall to edge of frame.
cheers
Neil

> That's great thanks.  What is the maximum space between wall and board 
> when using the dab method?.  When I put door casing in I let it to far 
> into room and think I may have to batten that wall.  The door frames is 
> 11/2 inches from wall to edge of frame.
> cheers
> Neil
>

If you are using 12.5mm board this means that you are looking at a 1 inch 
dab thickness - not a major problem as I have dabbed out to almost twice 
that in my time, normally due to the chippy doing as you've done with the 
linings or to cover up pipes, cables, dodgy blockwork etc.
Just try to ensure that your drywall adhesive is of a good stiff consistency 
and that you put a good amount on the wall giving you enough room to pat 
back the board making sure there is good contact.
It may feel a bit wobbly whilst you are doing it but once the adhesive has 
gone off it will all stiffen up and be fine.
Franko.

Plastic Plumbing? And lose the ability to recite
through the swear word dictionary?

As you may tell, I'm not looking forward to the task.
But it has to be done, so just grin and bear it.

Last time I plumbed in there I tightened all compression
joints apart from one (you can probably guess where
this story is going).

My mother in law was downstairs, so I asked her to
keep a look out for anything unusual when I went up
into the loft (two storey house plus loft) and opened
the valve to re-fill the central-heating header tank.

Once I opened the valve (not full bore) I then climbed back
down the loft ladder then went to the radiator to
check on its progress and bleed it.
A minute or so later I hear the mother-in-law request
my presence downstair.
When I got there all she could ask was "Did you mean
for there to be water dripping off the light pendant" as
she points at the still-on light with water dripping off
the bottom of the bulb!
I cursed, switched off the light, bolted up the loft to
close the header tank then armed myself with
a pair of water-pump pliers and charged quite
rapidly into the aforementioned fourteen-inch
crawl way.
Truthfully, you can't crawl in that space, it's more a sort
of "worm" action, so as I am worming my way to
the plumbing site I have to push the pliers ahead of me.
And then the final straw: in my haste to get to the site
I pushed the pliers a little too far and watched them
disappear down the cavity wall with an
ominous rattling sound.... Keeeeeyyyyriiiiiiiiist!

A loud shouted request for my son to get me a
spare pair of pliers, a scramble backwards, a
tightening of the one loose joint and vowing to
never venture in there again was the outcome.

Until now, of course.

Mungo :-_

> If you are using 12.5mm board this means that you are looking at a 1 inch 
> dab thickness - not a major problem as I have dabbed out to almost twice 
> that in my time, normally due to the chippy doing as you've done with the 
> linings or to cover up pipes, cables, dodgy blockwork etc.
> Just try to ensure that your drywall adhesive is of a good stiff 
> consistency and that you put a good amount on the wall giving you enough 
> room to pat back the board making sure there is good contact.
> It may feel a bit wobbly whilst you are doing it but once the adhesive has 
> gone off it will all stiffen up and be fine.
> Franko.



Thanks a lot Franko,
I have got a plasterer to skim for me,but he wants me to board it.  I was a 
bit concerned but feel happier now with replies I have been given.
Neil