Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold 
air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not know 
the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the 
reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and because 
the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 feet 
then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees this 
is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been 
advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there 
are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is 
this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
Thanks Jackie

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie" 
scrawled:


>Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold 
>air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not know 
>the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the 
>reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and because 
>the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 feet 
>then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees this 
>is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been 
>advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there 
>are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is 
>this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
>Thanks Jackie 
>

There may be a slight element of truth in what he says but it I
wouldn't go so far as to say it was _the_ reason. Take it with a pinch
of salt, but I would get it vented through the wall anyway for
convenience more than anything.
-- 
Stuart @ SJW Electrical

Please Reply to group

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie" 
wrote:


>Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold 
>air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not know 
>the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the 
>reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and because 
>the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 feet 
>then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees this 
>is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been 
>advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there 
>are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is 
>this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
>Thanks Jackie 
>

Rubbish.

Provided there is passage for the air to leave the machine in
sufficient quantity, it's fine.

Holes in the wall can lead to far more convoluted pipe paths than
stuff out a window.

"Lurch"  wrote in message 
news:posvi1pes5frqm91d8t9v9utjtrl0qke3m@4ax.com...

> On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie" 
> scrawled:
>
>>Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold
>>air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not 
>>know
>>the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the
>>reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and 
>>because
>>the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 
>>feet
>>then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees 
>>this
>>is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been
>>advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there
>>are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is
>>this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
>>Thanks Jackie
>>
> There may be a slight element of truth in what he says but it I
> wouldn't go so far as to say it was _the_ reason. Take it with a pinch
> of salt, but I would get it vented through the wall anyway for
> convenience more than anything.
> -- 

Speaking as a one time washing machine/drier repair man, I would say that 
your man's advice is very sensible. I lost count of the number of times I 
experienced problems with this type of set-up. What happens is that when the 
rising moist/warm air meets the cold air from outside, it condenses, turns 
back into water and runs back down the tube. The water then either runs back 
into the drier, or the weight of the water makes the outlet tube form a 'U' 
bend, and ( after a period of time) the collected water acts as a trap, just 
like your kitchen waste.
Now you have no air movement which = no drying = no cooling = overheat.
   I'm not saying for 100% certain this is your problem, but it's certainly 
the first thing I would have recommended.

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 13:20:52 +0100, "Partac"
 wrote:



>Speaking as a one time washing machine/drier repair man, I would say that 
>your man's advice is very sensible. I lost count of the number of times I 
>experienced problems with this type of set-up. What happens is that when the 
>rising moist/warm air meets the cold air from outside, it condenses, turns 
>back into water and runs back down the tube. The water then either runs back 
>into the drier, or the weight of the water makes the outlet tube form a 'U' 
>bend, and ( after a period of time) the collected water acts as a trap, just 
>like your kitchen waste.
>Now you have no air movement which = no drying = no cooling = overheat.
>   I'm not saying for 100% certain this is your problem, but it's certainly 
>the first thing I would have recommended.


I'd also say that it's a distinct possibility.

In addition to the moisture that accumulates, the longer the tube the
more resistance there is to the air flowing up the exhaust tube, the
air moves slower and the result is the machine overheats.

Most ducted air conditioners and ch boilers have strict restrictions
on flue length for this very reason. I'd assume dryers are the same.

However, heaters do have a finite life so it may have blown due to
age.

(if buying a new dryer I'd suggest a condening one btw.)

sponix

"Ericp"  wrote in message 
news:5avvi1to7mrl9n4kf7v7qlaep6dl5latr0@4ax.com...

> On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie" 
> wrote:
>
>>Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold
>>air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not 
>>know
>>the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the
>>reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and 
>>because
>>the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 
>>feet
>>then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees 
>>this
>>is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I have been
>>advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent straight out so that there
>>are no bends in the vent hose. Before I start drilling through the wall is
>>this advice correct or is the repairman talking a load of rubbish?
>>Thanks Jackie
>>
> Rubbish.
>
> Provided there is passage for the air to leave the machine in
> sufficient quantity, it's fine.
>
> Holes in the wall can lead to far more convoluted pipe paths than
> stuff out a window.
>

I have a Hoover drier which has performed perfectly satisfactorily with a 
flexy hose stuffed through a window for 25 years or so. Whilst the 
objections to this system may have theoretical (and slight) objections, and 
provided the discharge path is not blocked by fluff or other foreign bodies 
then it is a perfectly acceptable means of venting the drier. Indeed the 
user is encouraged to use this system by many manufacturers in the inclusion 
of the necessary accessories to permit it.

Regards

Pilgarlick

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 UTC, "Jackie"  
wrote:


> Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still blew cold 
> air. It was the overload/overheat protection device that failed(do not know 
> the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told that the 
> reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of the window and because 
> the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend then up 6 feet 
> then through a window and then pointing down through about 150 degrees this 
> is why it failed.


6 feet is a bit excessive and may cause a problem, as noted elsewhere.

We simply had a hole cut in the window nearby, and fitted the relevant 
plastic boss (a piece each side) into which the hose fits. Been like 
that for 11 years...tumble dryer has only failed due to broken belt so 
far!

-- 
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
   http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com

On 20 Sep 2005, Pilgarlick wrote


> 
> "Ericp"  wrote in message 
> news:5avvi1to7mrl9n4kf7v7qlaep6dl5latr0@4ax.com...
>> On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 10:46:47 GMT, "Jackie"
>>  wrote:
>> 
>>> Hi I have a hoover tumble dryer which stopped heating. It still
>>> blew cold air. It was the overload/overheat protection device
>>> that failed(do not know
>>> the exact name for it but it was open circuit) I have been told
>>> that the reason it failed was because I use a vent hose out of
>>> the window and because
>>> the tumble dryer has to push the air through a 90 degree bend
>>> then up 6 feet
>>> then through a window and then pointing down through about 150
>>> degrees this
>>> is why it failed. Also it was very windy when it packed up. I
>>> have been advised to cut a hole through the wall and vent
>>> straight out so that there are no bends in the vent hose. Before
>>> I start drilling through the wall is this advice correct or is
>>> the repairman talking a load of rubbish? Thanks Jackie
>>> 
>> Rubbish.
>> 
>> Provided there is passage for the air to leave the machine in
>> sufficient quantity, it's fine.
>> 
>> Holes in the wall can lead to far more convoluted pipe paths than
>> stuff out a window.
>> 
> I have a Hoover drier which has performed perfectly satisfactorily
> with a flexy hose stuffed through a window for 25 years or so.
> Whilst the objections to this system may have theoretical (and
> slight) objections, and provided the discharge path is not blocked
> by fluff or other foreign bodies then it is a perfectly acceptable
> means of venting the drier. Indeed the user is encouraged to use
> this system by many manufacturers in the inclusion of the
> necessary accessories to permit it. 


But as described, the potential problem wasn't about whether the hose 
vented through the window or through the wall:  it's that the current 
venting hose has a 90 degree turn, followed by a 6-foot rise to the 
window, then and points back down on the other side.

I can well imagine that that has meant that there *isn't* "a passage 
for the air to leave the machine in sufficient quantity", and that the 
repair guy's therefore giving good rather than rubbish advice.

-- 
Cheers,
Harvey

Looks like the design of the product is defective, ie it's not customer 
proof and the overheat stat should have reset unless faulty. It may be 
advisable to reroute the vent pipe to shorten the path length for this 
product, or throw it away and buy a product which will work under your 
conditions. Has the lint filter blocked? I've known the overheat switch 
to drop out under these conditions, but then reset. Why didn't the 
heater thermostat reset when the machine had cooled down?

	Regards
	Capitol

Capitol wrote:


>     Looks like the design of the product is defective, ie it's not 
> customer proof and the overheat stat should have reset unless faulty. It 
> may be advisable to reroute the vent pipe to shorten the path length for 
> this product, or throw it away and buy a product which will work under 
> your conditions. Has the lint filter blocked? I've known the overheat 
> switch to drop out under these conditions, but then reset. Why didn't 
> the heater thermostat reset when the machine had cooled down?
> 
>     Regards
>     Capitol


I just had this on mine.  It has two safeties, an "otter" (I think so 
called, because "it stops it getting 'otter") and a thermal link.  The 
otter is actually a bimetallic thermostat.

First time the otter blew, and took the link with it.  I replaced them 
both, and it ran happily for another six months, then the thermal link 
went again.  The parts people wanted 15 quid for another link - which 
consists of two connectors, a bit of heat-proof wire, and a thermal 
fuse.  A trip to maplins, 75p, and a bit of crimping and it's running again.

I assume that the otter doesn't turn the heat off soon enough to suit 
the thermal fuse.  I could fiddle with the temperature range of the 
thermal fuse, but I feel a strange reluctance to do so.

Andy

Hang on a minute, the replies above are all good advice but I'm not so
sure they answer the real issues.  The OP says "the overload/overheat
protection device failed".
Every dryer I've seen is arranged such that there is an operating
thermostat and a safety "overheat" thermostat.  In normal operation the
element is turned on and off by the operating thermostat with the
mark/space ratio varying during the drying cycle and with other factors
such as the airflow.  Blocking the outlet reduces the cooling of the
element (almost completely!) and normally that just means that the
element is on for a very short time and off for a long time, all
controlled by the operating thermostat.

The safety (overheat) thermostat is only there at all so that when (if)
the operating thermostat fails the dryer doesn't catch fire.  It is
normally resetable but deliberately designed so that resetting it is
non-trivial, like you have to reach around the back of the machine.
This tends to make people deal with the underlying problem rather than
ignore it.

The OP was told that the safety thermostat had failed and I take that
to mean that it had gone open circuit and was not resetable.  In my
experience both the operating and the safety thermostats are prone to
simply falling apart.  They are after all in a pretty harsh environment
and generally they seem to be built around a flimsy cardboard like
material (I know it's not really cardboard but that's what it looks
like).

So Jackie, was the dryer working OK up to the point of failure?  If it
was then your outlet arrangement is probably just fine.
Did the repairman replace the cutout or just reset it?  If he replaced
it because it had actually failed then the outlet arrangement may not
be perfect but it can't cause the cutout to *fail* so again your outlet
arrangement is not to blame.  If he simply reset it then something else
caused the dryer to overheat in the first place, maybe a faulty or
becoming faulty operating thermostat.
I guess the only other consideration is the age of the machine.  My
experience is that up to say 3 years of daily use I'd be surprised to
see a thermostat fall apart.  By about 10 years I'd expect to have
replaced both thermostats (and the element) at least once.

I hope that helps you to analyse the problem and I'd certainly think
hard before going to the effort of making a hole in the wall unless you
want one anyway.

> I have been told that the reason it failed was because I use a vent hose
> out of the window


Personally, I've given up on vented dryers. They always seem to overheat as
it is very difficult to get the hose outside without kinks. Also, I don't
want a whopping great hole in the side of my house. Go condensing and you
don't have to deal with all this.

Christian.

In article <43327b66$0$12179$ed9e5944@reading.news.pipex.net>, 
cmcardle75@nospam.yahooxxxx.co.uk says...

> > I have been told that the reason it failed was because I use a vent hose
> > out of the window
> 
> Personally, I've given up on vented dryers. They always seem to overheat as
> it is very difficult to get the hose outside without kinks. Also, I don't
> want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.


Best brick up all the windows and doors then.

>> Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.
>
> Best brick up all the windows and doors then.


I've closed off those holes with glass and wood instead.

Christian.

In article <4332818f$0$12182$ed9e5944@reading.news.pipex.net>, 
cmcardle75@nospam.yahooxxxx.co.uk says...

> >> Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.
> >
> > Best brick up all the windows and doors then.
> 
> I've closed off those holes with glass and wood instead.
> 

I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't 
seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart  :-)

Rob Morley  wrote:


>In article <4332818f$0$12182$ed9e5944@reading.news.pipex.net>, 
>cmcardle75@nospam.yahooxxxx.co.uk says...
>> >> Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.
>> >
>> > Best brick up all the windows and doors then.
>> 
>> I've closed off those holes with glass and wood instead.
>> 
>I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't 
>seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart  :-)


Use a cooker hood louvre.


--

>>>>> Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.
>>
>> I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't
>> seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart  :-)
>
> Use a cooker hood louvre.


Or just buy a condensing dryer, so you don't have to have a hole in the
wall, which is ugly, inflexible and probably not compatible with next year's
model.

Christian.

The BSS folk (http://www.bssuk.co.uk/) stock
in-line backdraft contraptions that basically
are one-way valves to allow air to flow out
but to prevent reverse flow.
The description of these items include the
word "damper" if anyone is attempting a search.

For the tiny cost of these, and where they are
easily concealable, I'd recommend fitting them
to any exterior-vent.

Mungo

"Christian McArdle"  wrote:


>>>>>> Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.
>>>
>>> I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't
>>> seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart  :-)
>>
>> Use a cooker hood louvre.
>
>Or just buy a condensing dryer, so you don't have to have a hole in the
>wall, which is ugly, inflexible and probably not compatible with next year's
>model.


.......or a washing line which works when the power stations run out of
gas to burn.


--

In article , 
paint@duluxtheshaggydog.com says...

> Rob Morley  wrote:
> 
> >In article <4332818f$0$12182$ed9e5944@reading.news.pipex.net>, 
> >cmcardle75@nospam.yahooxxxx.co.uk says...
> >> >> Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.
> >> >
> >> > Best brick up all the windows and doors then.
> >> 
> >> I've closed off those holes with glass and wood instead.
> >> 
> >I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't 
> >seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart  :-)
> 
> Use a cooker hood louvre.
> 

Don't they rely on air pressure from the fan?

In article , 
paint@duluxtheshaggydog.com says...

> "Christian McArdle"  wrote:
> 
> >>>>>> Also, I don't want a whopping great hole in the side of my house.
> >>>
> >>> I was going to counter with "so fit an automatic louvre", but I don't
> >>> seem to be able to find any without taking a Vent-Axia fan apart  :-)
> >>
> >> Use a cooker hood louvre.
> >
> >Or just buy a condensing dryer, so you don't have to have a hole in the
> >wall, which is ugly, inflexible and probably not compatible with next year's
> >model.
> 
> ......or a washing line which works when the power stations run out of
> gas to burn.
> 

.... but not when it's raining ...

Rob Morley  wrote:


>In article , 
>paint@duluxtheshaggydog.com says...

>> ......or a washing line which works when the power stations run out of
>> gas to burn.
>> 
>... but not when it's raining ...


That's the day you do the washing.


--