please can someone help

my husband used the power spray on the car and the next thing we had
water gushing down from the loft through the airing cupboard and down
to the kitchen.

he stopped the water but now then we had no hot water.
the control box was not working.

so we used the emersion heater to get hot water.

we have bought a new heating and hot water computer/control panel and
put that on.
it looks as though its working and all the display is up.

we still have NO heating and i'm freezing !!!!!
we have bought all the 3 amp fuses that wickes had on there shelf.
as soon as we put one in, it blows?
my husband, Bless him has tried everything

please   please can someone HELP !!!!!!!!!!

joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:

> please can someone help
> 
> my husband used the power spray on the car and the next thing we had
> water gushing down from the loft through the airing cupboard and down
> to the kitchen.


Ok, probably utter coincidence.

> 
> he stopped the water but now then we had no hot water.
> the control box was not working.
> 
> so we used the emersion heater to get hot water.


(Immersion)


> we have bought a new heating and hot water computer/control panel and
> put that on.
> it looks as though its working and all the display is up.

> we still have NO heating and i'm freezing !!!!!


Perfect excuse for a fur coat :)


> we have bought all the 3 amp fuses that wickes had on there shelf.
> as soon as we put one in, it blows?
> my husband, Bless him has tried everything


Ok, some details might be handy.

Do you have gas/oil/electric/solar/coal/wood/geothermal heating?
DO NOT put a higher rated fuse in.

I assume it's a gas boiler, with a hot water storage tank, fed from a
cold water tank?
What model is the boiler?
Could any water possibly have gotten to it?
It's possible (though not especially likely) that the boiler has been
damaged by the failing/wet programmer.

It's more likely that the new one has been wired up incorrectly, and there
is some sort of short in the wiring.
(this is unfortunatley if the case more likely to have damaged the boiler)

joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:


> please can someone help
>
> my husband used the power spray on the car and the next thing we had
> water gushing down from the loft through the airing cupboard and down
> to the kitchen.


why, header tank overflow, burst pipe?



> he stopped the water but now then we had no hot water.
> the control box was not working.


gas CH? Somethnig else?
In what way not working?



> so we used the emersion heater to get hot water.
>
> we have bought a new heating and hot water computer/control panel and
> put that on.


why? Onto which the gas CH or the immersion HW?



> it looks as though its working and all the display is up.
>
> we still have NO heating and i'm freezing !!!!!
> we have bought all the 3 amp fuses that wickes had on there shelf.
> as soon as we put one in, it blows?


in where?



> my husband, Bless him has tried everything
>
> please   please can someone HELP !!!!!!!!!!


give us a clue first. At this point all I could guess is that probably
water has got onto electrics somewhere, and youve fixed the water leak.
Leave it a week to dry out before powering up and it should all work
fine again. But with so little info I cant be sure by any means.


NT

its a gas boiler-pilot light still on
not at home to give details of model.
could not have been wired up wrong as no wiring touched, we got a new
timer control 'thingy' and plugged the new front panel to the exiating
control box still fixed to the wall.
there is a black mark now above one of the pins in the back of this as
yet another fuse blew.
so thinking it could be a bad, new one we purchased yet another, but
still the fuses keep blowing.

joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:

> its a gas boiler-pilot light still on
> not at home to give details of model.
> could not have been wired up wrong as no wiring touched, we got a new
> timer control 'thingy' and plugged the new front panel to the exiating
> control box still fixed to the wall.
> there is a black mark now above one of the pins in the back of this as
> yet another fuse blew.
> so thinking it could be a bad, new one we purchased yet another, but
> still the fuses keep blowing.
> 


Are you sure the wiring for the new timing programmer is same as that for
the old one?

I think you need to get an electrician in asap.

Rob

In article ,
    wrote:

> its a gas boiler-pilot light still on
> not at home to give details of model.
> could not have been wired up wrong as no wiring touched, we got a new
> timer control 'thingy' and plugged the new front panel to the exiating
> control box still fixed to the wall.
> there is a black mark now above one of the pins in the back of this as
> yet another fuse blew.
> so thinking it could be a bad, new one we purchased yet another, but
> still the fuses keep blowing.


Does the fuse blow with the programmer plugged in, but both heating and
hot water switched off? Or when hot water only is selected? Or when both?

Some basic fault finding is needed to give a diagnosis.

-- 
*Never underestimate the power of very stupid people in large groups *

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was
painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the
airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all
the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water,
we have a seperate hw emersion switch and that seems to be fine at
least we can get hw.
we have a control panel that controls , time settings for the hw and
ch.
this has a detachable front.
we bought a new one,and just repalced the front panel,still the fuses
kept blowing as soon as they are put in.
we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud so we got
another one, but still the same. on the back of the detachable front
panel are small pins, and above the second one in fron the left there
is a scortch mark obviously residue from the fuse blowing.
i think its a gloworm system.
the system has not been used for the last2 weeks, surely this should
have dried it out.
we have also bought a new thermostat, just in case it was that.
but still the fuses keep blowing.
the fuses blow as soon as they are put in. its instant.

my husband has tried this every which way,
one then the other and then with both off
pilot light stays on and the fuses keep blowing as soon as they are put
in.

joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:

> firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was
> painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the
> airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all
> the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water,
> we have a seperate hw emersion switch and that seems to be fine at
> least we can get hw.
> we have a control panel that controls , time settings for the hw and
> ch.
> this has a detachable front.
> we bought a new one,and just repalced the front panel,still the fuses
> kept blowing as soon as they are put in.
> we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud so we got
> another one, but still the same. on the back of the detachable front
> panel are small pins, and above the second one in fron the left there
> is a scortch mark obviously residue from the fuse blowing.
> i think its a gloworm system.
> the system has not been used for the last2 weeks, surely this should
> have dried it out.
> we have also bought a new thermostat, just in case it was that.
> but still the fuses keep blowing.
> the fuses blow as soon as they are put in. its instant.
> 

1)  we have a control panel...we bought a new one
2)  we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud...we 
got another one
3)  we have also bought a new thermostat...just in case

These people have far too much money in my opinion!

no not money!!!
just a freezing wife!!
i do not do cold....
and these can be taken back to the shop and money reenbursed. ok

richard
thanks for aALL your expertise of help in this matter

Richard Conway  wrote:

> joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:
>> firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was
>> painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the
>> airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all
>> the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water,
<snip>
> 1)  we have a control panel...we bought a new one
> 2)  we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud...we 
> got another one
> 3)  we have also bought a new thermostat...just in case
> 
> These people have far too much money in my opinion!


The 'back' can also be damaged by water, and lead to problems.
You may need to replace it.

In article ,
    wrote:

> my husband has tried this every which way,
> one then the other and then with both off
> pilot light stays on and the fuses keep blowing as soon as they are put


If they blow with the system switched off so just the programmer is
running, its wiring or connection is likely to be the trouble. If it
'flashed' over due to water it's possible this has left a conductive
track. So best to change the back plate for the one that came with the new
timer - and check the condition of the cables at the same time. Mark each
cable as you remove them to make sure they are replaced in the same way.

-- 
*Real men don't waste their hormones growing hair

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Ian Stirling wrote:

> Richard Conway  wrote:
> 
>>joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:
>>
>>>firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was
>>>painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the
>>>airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all
>>>the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water,
> 
> <snip>
> 
>>1)  we have a control panel...we bought a new one
>>2)  we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud...we 
>>got another one
>>3)  we have also bought a new thermostat...just in case
>>
>>These people have far too much money in my opinion!
> 
> 
> The 'back' can also be damaged by water, and lead to problems.
> You may need to replace it.


I'm not going near it :)

joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:

> no not money!!!
> just a freezing wife!!
> i do not do cold....
> and these can be taken back to the shop and money reenbursed. ok
> 
> richard
> thanks for aALL your expertise of help in this matter
> 


I'm just concerned that you didn't sound alarmed about all the water and 
didn't mention having fixed that problem!

they looked the same, so we asumed the wiring would be ok.
yeh.....i know don't ever asume.....
the electrician has been contacted and we are waiting for a reply,
saw you guys on the net and thought i would just ask,
sorry i couldn't give more info
thanks for the help.
any idea where i could get a wiring diagramme?
as that would be a great help also.
cheers

Richard Conway  wrote:

> Ian Stirling wrote:
>> Richard Conway  wrote:
>> 
>>>joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:
>>>
>>>>firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was
>>>>painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the
>>>>airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all
>>>>the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water,
>> 
>> <snip>
>> 
>>>1)  we have a control panel...we bought a new one
>>>2)  we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud...we 
>>>got another one
>>>3)  we have also bought a new thermostat...just in case
>>>
>>>These people have far too much money in my opinion!
>> 
>> 
>> The 'back' can also be damaged by water, and lead to problems.
>> You may need to replace it.
> 
> I'm not going near it :)


Sorry, I'm not fully awake this week.
Just getting over the annoyance of posting my most secret password to
IRC, so having to teach fingers new one.

Ian Stirling wrote:

> Richard Conway  wrote:
> 
>>Ian Stirling wrote:
>>
>>>Richard Conway  wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>>>joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>firstly, he was washing the car with a jet power spray thing, and i was
>>>>>painting in the bathroom, i heard water gushing and on looking in the
>>>>>airing cupboard water was running down the wall,the same wall that all
>>>>>the wires and plugs etc are on for the heating and hot water,
>>>
>>><snip>
>>>
>>>>1)  we have a control panel...we bought a new one
>>>>2)  we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud...we 
>>>>got another one
>>>>3)  we have also bought a new thermostat...just in case
>>>>
>>>>These people have far too much money in my opinion!
>>>
>>>
>>>The 'back' can also be damaged by water, and lead to problems.
>>>You may need to replace it.
>>
>>I'm not going near it :)
> 
> 
> Sorry, I'm not fully awake this week.
> Just getting over the annoyance of posting my most secret password to
> IRC, so having to teach fingers new one.


Know that feeling - don't know how many times I've sat in front of users 
  and not tabbed to the password field properly and ended up typing an 
administrator password into the username field!

NEW INFO............
just spoken to mr, and he says he fitted the new back plate also. and
it still did it
Also, he can get the hot water firing up
he stripped the valve and manually set it for the heating and it
worked..
then when he put it all back for auto he popped the fuses again.

joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:



>we have bought all the 3 amp fuses that wickes had on there shelf.


3 amps? that's your problem you need to move up to bigger fuses and
then when they run out use cut down heavy gauge nails  Eventually you
will get a very big bang and the source of the problem will be obvious
:-)


--

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk   wrote:


> NEW INFO............
> just spoken to mr, and he says he fitted the new back plate also. and
> it still did it
> Also, he can get the hot water firing up
> he stripped the valve and manually set it for the heating and it
> worked..
> then when he put it all back for auto he popped the fuses again.


Is there a 3-port motorised valve in the airing cupboard? Did it get wet in
the flood? If so, this could be the source of your problem. You need either
to dry it out *very* thoroughly or replace the electrical bit. [With most
valves, the actuator can be replaced without disturbing the plumbing].

Incidentally, what was the cause of the flood - and how did you stop it? Why
do/did you think it was in some way connected with using a pressure washer?
-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

the reason i think it was connected to the pressure washer is that they
both happened at the same time

my husband attached it to the sink and turned the tap full
we have really good water pressure
its the only thing i can put it down to

joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:

> the reason i think it was connected to the pressure washer is that they
> both happened at the same time
> 
> my husband attached it to the sink and turned the tap full
> we have really good water pressure
> its the only thing i can put it down to
> 

So did you have anybody look at it or do anything to repair it or did 
you just leave it to dry out and assume it would be okay?

joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:


> we bought a new one,and just repalced the front panel,still the fuses
> kept blowing as soon as they are put in.
> we thought that the new panel we bought could have been a dud so we got
> another one, but still the same. on the back of the detachable front
> panel are small pins, and above the second one in fron the left there
> is a scortch mark obviously residue from the fuse blowing.
> i think its a gloworm system.
> the system has not been used for the last2 weeks, surely this should
> have dried it out.

yes


> we have also bought a new thermostat, just in case it was that.
> but still the fuses keep blowing.
> the fuses blow as soon as they are put in. its instant.


The you, or someone with the ability, needs to trace the fault.
Otherwise youre wasting your time replacing one item after another at
random.

I'd start by putting the original controller back in, at least
everythings wired up right then.


NT

In message , 
joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk writes

>please can someone help
>
>my husband used the power spray on the car and the next thing we had
>water gushing down from the loft through the airing cupboard and down
>to the kitchen.
>
>he stopped the water but now then we had no hot water.
>the control box was not working.
>
>so we used the emersion heater to get hot water.
>
>we have bought a new heating and hot water computer/control panel and
>put that on.
>it looks as though its working and all the display is up.
>
>we still have NO heating and i'm freezing !!!!!
>we have bought all the 3 amp fuses that wickes had on there shelf.
>as soon as we put one in, it blows?
>my husband, Bless him has tried everything
>
>please   please can someone HELP !!!!!!!!!!
>

Your lack of much useful information makes it difficult to give a 
constructive reply

-- 
geoff

In message , 
joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk writes

>no not money!!!
>just a freezing wife!!



Freezing ?



>i do not do cold....
>and these can be taken back to the shop and money reenbursed. ok
>


-- 
geoff

In message , 
joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk writes

>the reason i think it was connected to the pressure washer is that they
>both happened at the same time
>
>my husband attached it to the sink and turned the tap full
>we have really good water pressure
>its the only thing i can put it down to


A thought, is it a mixer tap that he attached it to? Did he turn on both 
the hot and cold taps together? If so then you may well have fed high 
pressure cold back up the hot pipe and caused the header tank to over 
flow.

>

As for the electrical problem, I'm sure others know much more than I 
but: If the units, old and new look identical, have the same model 
number? I wonder if there are internal links for setting different 
wiring plans?
Could you post the model of controller??

Very best of luck with it all.
-- 
Bill

In message , Matt 
 writes

>joruss@kirkby.fsworld.co.uk wrote:
>
>
>>we have bought all the 3 amp fuses that wickes had on there shelf.
>
>3 amps? that's your problem you need to move up to bigger fuses and
>then when they run out use cut down heavy gauge nails  Eventually you
>will get a very big bang and the source of the problem will be obvious
>:-)
>
>


The brass shafts from old potentiometers make great replacements for 13A 
fuses, never had one blow yet!


P.S. DON'T DO IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

-- 
Bill

Bill  wrote:


>The brass shafts from old potentiometers make great replacements for 13A 
>fuses, never had one blow yet!


You must be old - I was buying them with plastic shafts in the 70's.
The only time I got to see metal ones was in scrap equipment donated
to me!

.......wonder what current they take to blow.


--

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bill   wrote:


>
> A thought, is it a mixer tap that he attached it to? Did he turn on
> both the hot and cold taps together? If so then you may well have fed
> high pressure cold back up the hot pipe and caused the header tank to
> over flow.
>>

That's the best theory yet! I couldn't see the connection between pressure
washing and flooding the airing cupboard - but that would explain it.

What a plonker! [OP's husband, not you!]
-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Bill   wrote:


>
> The brass shafts from old potentiometers make great replacements for
> 13A fuses, never had one blow yet!
>


You may jest - but I've seen it done - without any ill effects , as it
happens.

The workshop in the place where I worked in the 60's was 'modernised' by
replacing all the 15A outlets with 13A outlets, and the plugs were changed
on all the kit. A MIG welder which had worked perfectly well with an unfused
15A plug started blowing 13A fuses in its new plug. You can guess the rest!

As far as I can recall, the wiring wasn't changed - they were radial
circuits, fused at the MCB, so using a solid 'fuse' in the plug wasn't
really a big issue - but isn't to be recommended for general use!
-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

On 20 Sep,  
     "Set Square"  wrote:



> Incidentally, what was the cause of the flood - and how did you stop it?
> Why do/did you think it was in some way connected with using a pressure
> washer?


From my experience of pressure washers, they have a good flow, and rapid
cutoff when flow stops causing water hammer. If ther were any push fit
fittings or loose compression fittings the repeated hammerring may have
pushed them apart,

-- 
  B Thumbs
  Change lycos to yahoo to reply

On 20 Sep,  
     Matt  wrote:


> Bill  wrote:
> 
> >The brass shafts from old potentiometers make great replacements for 13A 
> >fuses, never had one blow yet!
> 
> You must be old - I was buying them with plastic shafts in the 70's.
> The only time I got to see metal ones was in scrap equipment donated
> to me!


Most I've seen (quite a few) have been either steel or aluminium if they
weren't plastic.

-- 
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  Change lycos to yahoo to reply

PLEASE SEE NEW THREAD...BLOWING FUSES 2
MORE INFO

PLEASE SEE NEW THREAD...BLOWING FUSES 2
                  NEW INFO

DAVE
PLEASE SEE NEW THREAD...BLOWING FUSES 2
IT HAS MORE INFO

In message , Set Square  
writes

>In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
>Bill   wrote:
>
>>
>> The brass shafts from old potentiometers make great replacements for
>> 13A fuses, never had one blow yet!
>>
>
>You may jest - but I've seen it done - without any ill effects , as it
>happens.


So have I.  It was not a jest!
-- 
Bill