HAving just ripped up 1 stinky bedroom carpet & underlay there appears 
to be the remains of damp patches on the concrete floor.
1970's built no insulation, just what seems to be about 3" or screed on 
a black membrane on-top of base.

Ra5ther than digging up entire ground floor and doing the job properly, 
would it be an option to put a laywer of polythene sheet (glued?) on top 
of screed before laying new underlay/carpet to reduce any damp that 
"may" be travelling upwards?

I am not convinced it is damp going up, more damp/condensation from when 
we first moved in and didn't realise there was a serious lack of 
ventilation until mould and significant condensation appeared on walls, 
furniture, clothes in cupboards etc etc.

Thoughts appreciated.
Cheers

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Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;) wrote:

> HAving just ripped up 1 stinky bedroom carpet & underlay there appears 
> to be the remains of damp patches on the concrete floor.
> 1970's built no insulation, just what seems to be about 3" or screed on 
> a black membrane on-top of base.
> 
> Ra5ther than digging up entire ground floor and doing the job properly, 
> would it be an option to put a laywer of polythene sheet (glued?) on top 
> of screed before laying new underlay/carpet to reduce any damp that 
> "may" be travelling upwards?
> 
> I am not convinced it is damp going up, more damp/condensation from when 
> we first moved in and didn't realise there was a serious lack of 
> ventilation until mould and significant condensation appeared on walls, 
> furniture, clothes in cupboards etc etc.


I had the same problem, and received several replies - see 
http://tinyurl.com/9v9v6

In the end I'm afraid I just had new carpet and underlay fitted directly 
on to my 'dodgy floor' without further ado, so can't report back on the 
effectiveness of the solutions which several folk kindly suggested.  But 
tbh, after a few weeks of exposure to the atmosphere the floor did 
improve a lot, and I think there were considerable condensation-type 
issues too (plus the place had been unoccupied for yonks).  All seems 
fine after nearly a year but I don't particularly feel like lifting the 
carpet to check what's going on underneath!

David

Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;) wrote:

> HAving just ripped up 1 stinky bedroom carpet & underlay there appears 
> to be the remains of damp patches on the concrete floor.
> 1970's built no insulation, just what seems to be about 3" or screed on 
> a black membrane on-top of base.
> 
> Ra5ther than digging up entire ground floor and doing the job properly, 
> would it be an option to put a laywer of polythene sheet (glued?) 


That's what I'd try first, assuming it's flat and you've improved the 
heating and ventilation situation. Would you need to glue it?

Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;) wrote:

> HAving just ripped up 1 stinky bedroom carpet & underlay there appears 
> to be the remains of damp patches on the concrete floor.


Before taking action, ascertain whether or not you've a problem.



> 1970's built no insulation, just what seems to be about 3" or screed on 
> a black membrane on-top of base.


How do you know that?


> Ra5ther than digging up entire ground floor and doing the job properly, 
> would it be an option to put a laywer of polythene sheet (glued?) on top 
> of screed before laying new underlay/carpet to reduce any damp that 
> "may" be travelling upwards?


There are various options.

> HAving just ripped up 1 stinky bedroom carpet & underlay there appears
> to be the remains of damp patches on the concrete floor.
> 1970's built no insulation, just what seems to be about 3" or screed on a 
> black membrane on-top of base.
>
> Ra5ther than digging up entire ground floor and doing the job properly, 
> would it be an option to put a laywer of polythene sheet (glued?) on top 
> of screed before laying new underlay/carpet to reduce any damp that "may" 
> be travelling upwards?
>
> I am not convinced it is damp going up, more damp/condensation from when 
> we first moved in and didn't realise there was a serious lack of 
> ventilation until mould and significant condensation appeared on walls, 
> furniture, clothes in cupboards etc etc.
>
> Thoughts appreciated.
> Cheers
>


Got a similar problem with smelly concrete floors.  They have been tested 
and are no longer damp.  Whether there was a problem in the past or lack of 
ventilation we don't know.  The thing is, once they get musty and smelly, 
they always seem to be that way.  When we first moved in, and started 
renovations, we left a couple of rooms empty for about 6 months with plenty 
of fresh air over a summer.  The floors seemed to be ok so we carpeted them 
with the underlay being put on top of (can't remember what it is called but 
it is black and a bit like greaseproof paper).  The smell came back once it 
was covered.

We have wondered whether to tile over the concrete using some type of glue 
that would create a membrane.  Otherwise I fear all the floors should be dug 
up and relayed over a new membrane.
Two weeks holiday and the house smells pretty bad on our return.

"Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;)" wrote:

> Having just ripped up 1 stinky bedroom carpet & underlay


Provided that it's just a smell and doesn't have an underlying cause, it's 
actually easy to completely remove a smell for good.  Have a look at; 
http://www.prochem.co.uk/deodorisers,_odour_neutralisers_&_sanitizers.htm

These products are easily available at any janitorial supplier - check 
yellow pages - and they work!

Dave

On 20 Sep,  
     "david lang"  wrote:


> "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;)" wrote:
> > Having just ripped up 1 stinky bedroom carpet & underlay
> 
> Provided that it's just a smell and doesn't have an underlying cause, it's 
> actually easy to completely remove a smell for good.  Have a look at; 
> http://www.prochem.co.uk/deodorisers,_odour_neutralisers_&_sanitizers.htm
> 
> These products are easily available at any janitorial supplier - check 
> yellow pages - and they work!


Why do all these products contain a 'fragrance'. They get right up my nose.
Is it because they don't work, and are disguising the smell with a stronger
one?

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On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 18:40:48 +0100, Stuart Noble  
 wrote:


>>  Ra5ther than digging up entire ground floor and doing the job  
>> properly, would it be an option to put a laywer of polythene sheet  
>> (glued?)

> That's what I'd try first, assuming it's flat and you've improved the  
> heating and ventilation situation. Would you need to glue it?


More importantly, what would he glue it with? Polythene has a very low  
surface energy, so it is difficult to get an adhesive to grip it  
convincingly. Lots of tackifiers in the formulation help but these make  
the adhesive liable to creeping In any case the nails in the gripper rods  
will quite probably suffice, especially if the edges are turned back under  
them.

John Schmitt

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Pinot Grigio wrote:


> > Ra5ther than digging up entire ground floor and doing the job properly,
> > would it be an option to put a laywer of polythene sheet (glued?) on top
> > of screed before laying new underlay/carpet to reduce any damp that "may"
> > be travelling upwards?


bad idea. Trapping damp in an airgap tends to cause toxic black mould.
On an uninsulated floor it might also trap condensation.

There are 2 possible fixes.

1. is to leave the floor bare for several weeks with good ventilation
and warm weather, or if its real persistent a dehumidifier. In a lot of
cases this is all thats needed.

2. If that doesnt work, painting the crete with watersealant will do
it.

I really would not use a surface membrane. Health is too valuable.


NT

In article <4DAD4EBBBF%brian13434@lycos.co.uk>,
    wrote:

> On 20 Sep,  
>      "david lang"  wrote:

> > "Pet @ www.gymratz.co.uk ;)" wrote:
> > > Having just ripped up 1 stinky bedroom carpet & underlay
> > 
> > Provided that it's just a smell and doesn't have an underlying cause, it's 
> > actually easy to completely remove a smell for good.  Have a look at; 
> > http://www.prochem.co.uk/deodorisers,_odour_neutralisers_&_sanitizers.htm
> > 
> > These products are easily available at any janitorial supplier - check 
> > yellow pages - and they work!

> Why do all these products contain a 'fragrance'.

They don't. But it's harder to find those without.


> They get right up my nose.
> Is it because they don't work, and are disguising the smell with a stronger
> one?

Possibly.

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Lobster wrote:


> In the end I'm afraid I just had new carpet and underlay fitted directly 
> on to my 'dodgy floor' without further ado, 


:)

Just got back to catch up on the thread.
carpet and underlay was fitted yesterday on the old floor, so we'll just 
have to wait and see.

The old carpet did reek of dog/cat piss (Amonia stentch)  and I know the 
previous owners had up to 6 dogs at one time so fingers crossed.

besides, if I do dig up the old floor(s) i'll be refitting with UFH to 
match upstairs, at least I have bought a little relaxation time away 
from major projects.

:)


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John Schmitt wrote:


> More importantly, what would he glue it with? Polythene has a very low  
> surface energy, so it is difficult to get an adhesive to grip it  
> convincingly. Lots of tackifiers in the formulation help but these make  
> the adhesive liable to creeping In any case the nails in the gripper 
> rods  will quite probably suffice, especially if the edges are turned 
> back under  them.


It's been re-fitted with gripper strips, didn't have time to get the 
polythene down.


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Chris Bacon wrote:


>> 1970's built no insulation, just what seems to be about 3" or screed 
>> on a black membrane on-top of base.
> 
> 
> How do you know that?


because the C/H pipes run under the concrete and bits of the edge have 
gone all crumbly.

I'm re-running pipes above floor level sometime very soon.


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