well, its getting colder.  Its getting darker too, so im mindful of the 
approaching necessity of spending many cold hours in the garage /workshop. 
the roof is bare rafters and is gonna be tricky to insulate with rock wool 
type insulation.  i have just priced up celotex and its 25 per 2sqm board! 
Even tri iso super 9 is 100 per 10sqm so that's not much cheaper either. 
There has got to be a more cost effective solution to insulating the garage. 
i will probably use a hot air and radiant heat source.

any suggestions?

steve

In article <432e7ff6$0$17470$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net>,
   r.p.mcmurphy  wrote:

> i have just priced up celotex and its 25 per 2sqm board!


Under 100GBP for 4 boards (40mm) from Sheffield Insulation. Each board is 2400
x 1800 mm IIRC.

-- 
	John Cartmell	john@ followed by finnybank.com	  0845 006 8822
	Qercus magazine	FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527		www.finnybank.com
	Qercus - the best guide to RISC OS computing

In article <432e7ff6$0$17470$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net>, 
redleadertwoSPACE@SPACEntlworld.com says...

> well, its getting colder.  Its getting darker too, so im mindful of the 
> approaching necessity of spending many cold hours in the garage /workshop.. 
> the roof is bare rafters and is gonna be tricky to insulate with rock wool 
> type insulation.  i have just priced up celotex and its £25 per 2sqm board! 
> Even tri iso super 9 is £100 per 10sqm so that's not much cheaper either. 
> There has got to be a more cost effective solution to insulating the garage. 
> i will probably use a hot air and radiant heat source.
> 
> any suggestions?
> 

Rockwool held up with chicken wire and covered with foil-backed 
plasterboard?

"r.p.mcmurphy"  wrote in message
news:432e7ff6$0$17470$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net...

> well, its getting colder.  Its getting darker too, so im mindful of the
> approaching necessity of spending many cold hours in the garage /workshop.
> the roof is bare rafters and is gonna be tricky to insulate with rock wool
> type insulation.  i have just priced up celotex and its 25 per 2sqm
board!
> Even tri iso super 9 is 100 per 10sqm so that's not much cheaper either.
> There has got to be a more cost effective solution to insulating the
garage.
> i will probably use a hot air and radiant heat source.
>
> any suggestions?
>
> steve
>
>


==============
Polystyrene (50mm thick) is quite cheap and effective. I used it underfloor.

Cic.

On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 10:08:04 +0100, "r.p.mcmurphy"
 wrote:


>well, its getting colder.  Its getting darker too, so im mindful of the 
>approaching necessity of spending many cold hours in the garage /workshop. 
>the roof is bare rafters and is gonna be tricky to insulate with rock wool 
>type insulation.  i have just priced up celotex and its 25 per 2sqm board! 
>Even tri iso super 9 is 100 per 10sqm so that's not much cheaper either. 
>There has got to be a more cost effective solution to insulating the garage. 
>i will probably use a hot air and radiant heat source.
>
>any suggestions?
>
>steve 
>


I went through this issue a couple of years ago.  My 30m^2 garage was
single brick wall with concrete floor and a pitched, felted tiled roof
with access open from inside all the way up.   There were up/over
doors at the front (timber and ply construction with poor sealing
around the edges).

I did the calculations for heat loss and to get the inside temperature
up to a reasonable 18 degrees when it's around zero outside was in
excess of 12kW.  With electric heating, the implication would be a 50A
supply and at 6p/kWh, a cost of 72p/hr to heat it.
In practice, I could run two fan heaters and achieve about 10-12
degrees eventually but in a 3-4hour work session it really was hardly
worth running the heating; plus for the 50A supply it would mean only
25A left for machinery which wasn't enough.

Therefore I did the calculations for using 50mm Celotex for the roof,
walls and doors and nothing for the floor.   This basically brought
the heatloss down to about 3-4kW for 20 degrees inside and 0 outside.

I insulated against the rafters using Celotex attached with long
drywall screws and flat washers, then joints taped with foil tape.   I
added soffit vents to allow ventilation behind the sheets.

For the walls I made a stud frame with a 25mm space behind for
ventilation, infilled with Celotex and with 18mm ply over the top.

I improved sealing on the doors with special vinyl strips and again
Celotex attached to the insides of the doors.   It's light in weight.

FOr heating, I added a stainless steel plate heat echanger to the
house CH system and added a secondary heating circuit for the garage
so that the heat source is from gas rather than electricity.  This
results in a worst case cost of heating of about 5p per hour.

I used Celotex throughout because it provides good insulation for a
given thickness and is light in weight and quick to fit.   I was more
concerned about space and running cost than capital cost.

To implement more cheaply, I would have kept with the Celotex for the
roof and doors and used rockwool or fibreglass for the walls.   I
found it possible to get 50mm Celotex at 15-17 per 2440x1220 sheet by
making a project including the timber and sheet materials and asking
builders merchants to quote competitively for the lot.

The result is that I can use the workshop comfortably whenever I like
and have adequate electrical supply for the machinery.



-- 

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Andy Hall wrote:

> On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 10:08:04 +0100, "r.p.mcmurphy"
>  wrote:
>
>> well, its getting colder.  Its getting darker too, so im mindful of
>> the approaching necessity of spending many cold hours in the garage
>> /workshop. the roof is bare rafters and is gonna be tricky to
>> insulate with rock wool type insulation.  i have just priced up
>> celotex and its 25 per 2sqm board! Even tri iso super 9 is 100 per
>> 10sqm so that's not much cheaper either. There has got to be a more
>> cost effective solution to insulating the garage. i will probably
>> use a hot air and radiant heat source.
>>
>> any suggestions?
>>
>> steve
>>
>
> I went through this issue a couple of years ago.  My 30m^2 garage was
> single brick wall with concrete floor and a pitched, felted tiled roof
> with access open from inside all the way up.   There were up/over
> doors at the front (timber and ply construction with poor sealing
> around the edges).
>
> I did the calculations for heat loss and to get the inside temperature
> up to a reasonable 18 degrees when it's around zero outside was in
> excess of 12kW.  With electric heating, the implication would be a 50A
> supply and at 6p/kWh, a cost of 72p/hr to heat it.
> In practice, I could run two fan heaters and achieve about 10-12
> degrees eventually but in a 3-4hour work session it really was hardly
> worth running the heating; plus for the 50A supply it would mean only
> 25A left for machinery which wasn't enough.
>
> Therefore I did the calculations for using 50mm Celotex for the roof,
> walls and doors and nothing for the floor.   This basically brought
> the heatloss down to about 3-4kW for 20 degrees inside and 0 outside.
>
> I insulated against the rafters using Celotex attached with long
> drywall screws and flat washers, then joints taped with foil tape.   I
> added soffit vents to allow ventilation behind the sheets.
>
> For the walls I made a stud frame with a 25mm space behind for
> ventilation, infilled with Celotex and with 18mm ply over the top.
>
> I improved sealing on the doors with special vinyl strips and again
> Celotex attached to the insides of the doors.   It's light in weight.
>
> FOr heating, I added a stainless steel plate heat echanger to the
> house CH system and added a secondary heating circuit for the garage
> so that the heat source is from gas rather than electricity.  This
> results in a worst case cost of heating of about 5p per hour.
>
> I used Celotex throughout because it provides good insulation for a
> given thickness and is light in weight and quick to fit.   I was more
> concerned about space and running cost than capital cost.
>
> To implement more cheaply, I would have kept with the Celotex for the
> roof and doors and used rockwool or fibreglass for the walls.   I
> found it possible to get 50mm Celotex at 15-17 per 2440x1220 sheet by
> making a project including the timber and sheet materials and asking
> builders merchants to quote competitively for the lot.
>
> The result is that I can use the workshop comfortably whenever I like
> and have adequate electrical supply for the machinery.


thanks all for the advice.  if i can get celotex at that price i will do the 
roof with that.  the walls i will probably do with thiner stuff because i 
cant realy lose the space.  now the hunt is on for cheap celotex!  if i cant 
get it that cheap, i will do the jablite thing.

steve

On Mon, 19 Sep 2005 20:30:33 +0100, "r.p.mcmurphy"
 wrote:



>
>thanks all for the advice.  if i can get celotex at that price i will do the 
>roof with that.  the walls i will probably do with thiner stuff because i 
>cant realy lose the space.  now the hunt is on for cheap celotex!  if i cant 
>get it that cheap, i will do the jablite thing.
>
>steve 
>



In terms of priority, I would do the doors and roof first, then move
on from there.


-- 

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

In article <432f11db$0$1304$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net>,
   r.p.mcmurphy  wrote:

> thanks all for the advice.  if i can get celotex at that price i will do
> the roof with that.  the walls i will probably do with thiner stuff
> because i cant realy lose the space.  now the hunt is on for cheap
> celotex!  if i cant get it that cheap, i will do the jablite thing.


You can get Celotex in a range of thicknesses.

-- 
	John Cartmell	john@ followed by finnybank.com	  0845 006 8822
	Qercus magazine	FAX +44 (0)8700-519-527		www.finnybank.com
	Qercus - the best guide to RISC OS computing