Hi

I am putting up the picture rail which was removed way back.

i saw an item once where instead of mitre joints a coping saw was used to
join at inside corners. so 1 piece is left uncut and the other laid over it
to make a clean joint.

any hints or diagrams would be of use.

Mark

"Rob graham"  wrote in message
news:dgertj$3mf$1@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...

>
> "Mark D Smith"  wrote in message
> news:432aab50$0$23392$da0feed9@news.zen.co.uk...
> > Hi
> >
> > I am putting up the picture rail which was removed way back.
> >
> > i saw an item once where instead of mitre joints a coping saw was used
to
> > join at inside corners. so 1 piece is left uncut and the other laid over
> > it
> > to make a clean joint.
> >
> > any hints or diagrams would be of use.
> >
> > Mark
> >
> >
> Basically, you put one piece up along a wall, butting up to the
neighbouring
> wall. Then offer the piece that goes on this next wall up to the first
piece
> and scribe a line that's parallel to the convolutions in the first piece.
> Then cut along that line and you should end up with a piece that fits the
> convolutions in the first piece.
>
> Rob Graham
>
>


thanks

i just could not remember the parallel bit but now it all comes flooding
back.

I used zinc coated woodscrews & raw plugs to hold up some 10 years ago and
overfilled with filler. I don't trust No More Nails. is that the best bet
for making sure it stays up?

Mark

>i saw an item once where instead of mitre >joints a coping saw was used to
>join at inside corners. so 1 piece is left >uncut and the other laid over it
>to make a clean joint.

>any hints or diagrams would be of use.

>Mark



To cope an internal corner, cut a 45 degree mitre on the end of the
piece to be cut, then , with the coping saw, cut out the mitred piece.
Sorry, but I can't think of a way of posting a diagram.