Hi,

Another question.

I am thinking of tiling the pantry in my house. Currently it has been
painted with Emulsion.

When I spoke to a builder about this he said the adhesive would not
stick to well on the emulsion as it is too shiny and smooth.

He said that I could apply a coat of PVA to the walls to help adhesion.
 Or I could take the paint off.

So my question is.  Would the PVA work or would I have to remove the
paint.

If I had to remove the paint how could I do that.  I am thinking I may
be able to do it with an eletric sander, but is there a better way?

Many Thanks

Bhupesh

bp wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> Another question.
> 
> I am thinking of tiling the pantry in my house. Currently it has been
> painted with Emulsion.
> 
> When I spoke to a builder about this he said the adhesive would not
> stick to well on the emulsion as it is too shiny and smooth.
> 
> He said that I could apply a coat of PVA to the walls to help adhesion.
>  Or I could take the paint off.
> 
> So my question is.  Would the PVA work or would I have to remove the
> paint.


I should take the paint off. The adhesive may soften it and
you could end up having all the tiles fall off - the emulsion
may be on old limewash, or anything. A scraper might be nicer
than a sander. You may have to scrub off old water based stuff.
If you PVA it, use dilute PVA, and tile straight over before
it dries.

Chris Bacon wrote:



> If you PVA it, use dilute PVA, and tile straight over before
> it dries.


Just to hijack this thread a bit.

A teacher wants to paint a glass panel in a door, to prevent the sun 
from over heating a classroom. Does this tile over it while wet, still 
apply to what I would think was a water based paint , that the teacher 
wants to use on her door window?

Reason I ask, is that when I tried to clean the window for her, prior to 
her painting it, I had lots of problems getting down to the glass. Just 
as if the window had been covered with some silicon something. Nothing 
would stick to it.

Dave

Dave wrote:

> Chris Bacon wrote:
>> If you PVA it, use dilute PVA, and tile straight over before
>> it dries.
> 
> Just to hijack this thread a bit.
> 
> A teacher wants to paint a glass panel in a door, to prevent the sun 
> from over heating a classroom.

OK....


> Does this tile over it while wet, still apply to what I would think
> was a water based paint, that the teacher wants to use on her door
> window?


I had to read that about 10 times, I *think* I understand....



> Reason I ask, is that when I tried to clean the window for her, prior to 
> her painting it, I had lots of problems getting down to the glass. Just 
> as if the window had been covered with some silicon something. Nothing 
> would stick to it.


Then I shouldn't think PVA will. Try some cellulose thinners on the
glass.

Couldn't she Blu-tack a picture over it? Hang a curtain on a springy
thing that I forget the name of at the mo.? Like a bit of bicycle
brake cable?

>If I had to remove the paint how could I do that.  I am thinking I may

be able to do it with an eletric sander, but is there a better way?


The easiest way is; mix up some wallpaper paste to a thick mix, paint
it onto the emulsion, wait 1/2 an hour, and the emulsion will peel off
with a scraper (although it might need a longer time; it depends on the
thickness of the emulsion)
HTH

bp wrote:

> Hi,
>
> Another question.
>
> I am thinking of tiling the pantry in my house. Currently it has been
> painted with Emulsion.
>
> When I spoke to a builder about this he said the adhesive would not
> stick to well on the emulsion as it is too shiny and smooth.
>
> He said that I could apply a coat of PVA to the walls to help
>  adhesion. Or I could take the paint off.
>
> So my question is.  Would the PVA work or would I have to remove the
> paint.
>
> If I had to remove the paint how could I do that.  I am thinking I may
> be able to do it with an eletric sander, but is there a better way?
>
> Many Thanks
>
> Bhupesh


Get a 2ft piece of 2"x1" wood, hammer 2" nails along the lenght of the
wood, screw 2ft piece of wood to another lenght of wood at the end.
Then use this to score the wall all over remove any loose paint and debris.

In article , 
bp_soni@yahoo.com says...

> I am thinking of tiling the pantry in my house. Currently it has been
> painted with Emulsion.
> 
> When I spoke to a builder about this he said the adhesive would not
> stick to well on the emulsion as it is too shiny and smooth.
> 
> He said that I could apply a coat of PVA to the walls to help adhesion.
>  Or I could take the paint off.
> 
> So my question is.  Would the PVA work or would I have to remove the
> paint.


PVA will help the tile cement stick to the paint, but it won't help the 
paint stick to the wall, so I'd be inclined to take the paint off.

> 
> If I had to remove the paint how could I do that.  I am thinking I may
> be able to do it with an eletric sander, but is there a better way?
> 

A good sander with a coarse abrasive will do it (but probably not 
quickly) - if it's a plastic-based emulsion then heat gun and scraper 
might be better, if it's limewash/distemper then scraping or a wire 
brush.

Dave wrote:


> Just to hijack this thread a bit.
>
> A teacher wants to paint a glass panel in a door, to prevent the sun
> from over heating a classroom.


This glass panel is almost certainly there to stop people from opening
the door and banging into people and injuring them.  It is i'm pretty
sure a legal requirement to have such glass panels in schools & Uni's &
such.  Probably in offices too.

Rob Morley wrote:

> In article , 
> bp_soni@yahoo.com says...
> 
>>I am thinking of tiling the pantry in my house. Currently it has been
>>painted with Emulsion.
>>
>>When I spoke to a builder about this he said the adhesive would not
>>stick to well on the emulsion as it is too shiny and smooth.
>>
>>He said that I could apply a coat of PVA to the walls to help adhesion.
>> Or I could take the paint off.
>>
>>So my question is.  Would the PVA work or would I have to remove the
>>paint.
> 
> 
> PVA will help the tile cement stick to the paint, but it won't help the 
> paint stick to the wall, so I'd be inclined to take the paint off.
> 
>>If I had to remove the paint how could I do that.  I am thinking I may
>>be able to do it with an eletric sander, but is there a better way?
>>
> 
> A good sander with a coarse abrasive will do it (but probably not 
> quickly) - if it's a plastic-based emulsion then heat gun and scraper 
> might be better, if it's limewash/distemper then scraping or a wire 
> brush.


I'd say if it comes off easily, take it off. If not, tile over it. Tile 
adhesive shouldn't need pva and you'll soon see if it isn't sticking 
properly

zikkimalambo@connectfree.co.uk wrote:

> Dave wrote:

>>A teacher wants to paint a glass panel in a door, to prevent the sun
>>from over heating a classroom.
> This glass panel is almost certainly there to stop people from opening
> the door and banging into people and injuring them.  It is i'm pretty
> sure a legal requirement to have such glass panels in schools & Uni's &
> such.  Probably in offices too.



Part of the fire regulations I believe.


> 



-- 
David Clark

$message_body_include ="PLES RING IF AN RNSR IS REQIRD"

Dave  wrote:

> Chris Bacon wrote:
> 
> 
>> If you PVA it, use dilute PVA, and tile straight over before
>> it dries.
> 
> Just to hijack this thread a bit.
> 
> A teacher wants to paint a glass panel in a door, to prevent the sun 
> from over heating a classroom. Does this tile over it while wet, still 
> apply to what I would think was a water based paint , that the teacher 
> wants to use on her door window?


Just get some solar reflecting film to apply to the glass.

http://www.ml-ro.co.uk/php/product_index.php?productid=1761&productcode=5420

I've installed some on the velux in my attic room and it has made a
noticeable difference.

Rob

> This glass panel is almost certainly there to stop people from opening
> the door and banging into people and injuring them.  It is i'm pretty
> sure a legal requirement to have such glass panels in schools & Uni's &
> such.  Probably in offices too.


Part K5, doesn't apply to lifts and houses (but would apply to shops,
schools, offices, factories...)

http://www.odpm.gov.uk/stellent/groups/odpm_buildreg/documents/page/odpm_breg_600500.pdf

5.2 a. doors and gates on main traffic routes and those which can be pushed
open from either side should have vision panels unless they are low enough
to see over.

Now we can just argue if a classroom door is a main traffic route.
Personally, I would think so, but don't know the official score.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:

>>This glass panel is almost certainly there to stop people from opening
>>the door and banging into people and injuring them.  It is i'm pretty
>>sure a legal requirement to have such glass panels in schools & Uni's &
>>such.  Probably in offices too.
> 
> 
> Part K5, doesn't apply to lifts and houses (but would apply to shops,
> schools, offices, factories...)
> 
> http://www.odpm.gov.uk/stellent/groups/odpm_buildreg/documents/page/odpm_breg_600500.pdf
> 
> 5.2 a. doors and gates on main traffic routes and those which can be pushed
> open from either side should have vision panels unless they are low enough
> to see over.
> 
> Now we can just argue if a classroom door is a main traffic route.
> Personally, I would think so, but don't know the official score.
> 
> Christian.
> 
> 

The doors on the toilets in our office don't have these!

>> 5.2 a. doors and gates on main traffic routes and those which can be
pushed
>> open from either side should have vision panels unless they are low
enough
>> to see over.
>
> The doors on the toilets in our office don't have these!


Not even the stalls?

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:

>>>5.2 a. doors and gates on main traffic routes and those which can be
> 
> pushed
> 
>>>open from either side should have vision panels unless they are low
> 
> enough
> 
>>>to see over.
>>
>>The doors on the toilets in our office don't have these!
> 
> 
> Not even the stalls?
> 
> Christian.
> 
> 
> 

Not even.