Hi All,

I was just pondering an idea (probably for next year now) re a micro
irrigation system for my small garden produce strip (full of runner
beans atm). ;-)

I was thinking of using a submersible pump in a water butt (small fish
pond type) rigged up to some of that perforated hose or kits you can
buy. The pump would be on a timeswitch that would be indoors (low
voltage stuff outdoors).

The butt(s?) would be primarily fed via one of those rain-savers on
the main house downpipe (end of terrace Victorian house so it's all
the rear main roof and all the rear addition and extension).

(This is the bit I would like clarification re the regs on please) The
water butt would also have a ballcock fitted (fed via some hose from
the outside tap and pressure reducer) where if the water level dropped
to say less than one third the ballclock would open and fill the butt
back up to 1/4 - 1/3. I would probably modify a ballcock mech so that
the 'float' worked vertically via some guides in the water butt so
that the ballvalve could remain well clear of the water (no back
syphoning), and an overflow to ensure no overfilling (not that it
should with the 'Rain saver' / ballcock).

The mains feed would probably only be 'live' during the main summer
growing season so no issues with freezing of the mains pressure
outside components.

It may sound 'over complicated' to some but (but it isn't) but what I
am trying to do is automate the process as much as possible whilst
making best use of rainwater when available (I'm not on a water meter
but just not wanting to 'waste'' good processed drinking water)?

All the best and thanks for your time ...

T i m

In article , 
news@spaced.me.uk says...

> Hi All,
> 
> I was just pondering an idea (probably for next year now) re a micro
> irrigation system for my small garden produce strip (full of runner
> beans atm). ;-)
> 
> I was thinking of using a submersible pump in a water butt (small fish
> pond type) rigged up to some of that perforated hose or kits you can
> buy. The pump would be on a timeswitch that would be indoors (low
> voltage stuff outdoors).
> 
> The butt(s?) would be primarily fed via one of those rain-savers on
> the main house downpipe (end of terrace Victorian house so it's all
> the rear main roof and all the rear addition and extension).
> 
> (This is the bit I would like clarification re the regs on please) The
> water butt would also have a ballcock fitted (fed via some hose from
> the outside tap and pressure reducer) where if the water level dropped
> to say less than one third the ballclock would open and fill the butt
> back up to 1/4 - 1/3. I would probably modify a ballcock mech so that
> the 'float' worked vertically via some guides in the water butt so
> that the ballvalve could remain well clear of the water (no back
> syphoning), and an overflow to ensure no overfilling (not that it
> should with the 'Rain saver' / ballcock).
> 
> The mains feed would probably only be 'live' during the main summer
> growing season so no issues with freezing of the mains pressure
> outside components.
> 
> It may sound 'over complicated' to some but (but it isn't) but what I
> am trying to do is automate the process as much as possible whilst
> making best use of rainwater when available (I'm not on a water meter
> but just not wanting to 'waste'' good processed drinking water)?
> 

Why not use grey water to keep it topped up?

On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 09:19:50 GMT, T i m  wrote:

| Hi All,
| 
| I was just pondering an idea (probably for next year now) re a micro
| irrigation system for my small garden produce strip (full of runner
| beans atm). ;-)

We use five plastic dustbins under the eaves of the garage.
Collects enough water for all our gardening needs.

-- 
Dave Fawthrop <dave hyphenologist co uk> 
"Intelligent Design?" my knees say *not*.
"Intelligent Design?" my back says *not*.

On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 10:27:03 +0100, Rob Morley 
wrote:



>> 
>Why not use grey water to keep it topped up?


Well, of course I *could* but that would involve more intrusion into
the waste systems (bathroom downstairs and pipework underground)  and
the only grey that would be easy to get to (near the downpipe) only
takes the dishwasher and sink (no guarantee that there would be
sufficient feed to ensure the butt doesn't dry up in the summer) and
too low to easily feed into a butt (without a sump and pumps etc). ;-(

All the best ..

T i m

On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 10:31:11 +0100, Dave Fawthrop
 wrote:


>On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 09:19:50 GMT, T i m  wrote:
>
>| Hi All,
>| 
>| I was just pondering an idea (probably for next year now) re a micro
>| irrigation system for my small garden produce strip (full of runner
>| beans atm). ;-)
>
>We use five plastic dustbins under the eaves of the garage.


Ah, that ok if you live in 'Fawthrop Towers' with a 60' square garage
and space for 5 dustbins!


>Collects enough water for all our gardening needs.


And you have a 'little man' to appy it to your garden then Dave? ;-)

I'm no gardener (no time, real interest, space, need) but I don't mind
producing (some of) my own beans etc.

I'm told such need a 'good watering' and so because I often forget to
do so I thought my suggestion might make that task easier / more
reliable?

I would rather spend a bit of some time on a mini hydro engineering
project than standing in the garden with a watering can .. ;-)

All the best ..

T i m

"T i m"  wrote in message 
news:6t75i11k13edk0kvf8tk0fnbvfb112224i@4ax.com...

> Hi All,
>
> I was just pondering an idea (probably for next year now) re a micro
> irrigation system for my small garden produce strip (full of runner
> beans atm). ;-)
>
> I was thinking of using a submersible pump in a water butt (small fish
> pond type) rigged up to some of that perforated hose or kits you can
> buy. The pump would be on a timeswitch that would be indoors (low
> voltage stuff outdoors).
>
> The butt(s?) would be primarily fed via one of those rain-savers on
> the main house downpipe (end of terrace Victorian house so it's all
> the rear main roof and all the rear addition and extension).
>
> (This is the bit I would like clarification re the regs on please) The
> water butt would also have a ballcock fitted (fed via some hose from
> the outside tap and pressure reducer) where if the water level dropped
> to say less than one third the ballclock would open and fill the butt
> back up to 1/4 - 1/3. I would probably modify a ballcock mech so that
> the 'float' worked vertically via some guides in the water butt so
> that the ballvalve could remain well clear of the water (no back
> syphoning), and an overflow to ensure no overfilling (not that it
> should with the 'Rain saver' / ballcock).
>
> The mains feed would probably only be 'live' during the main summer
> growing season so no issues with freezing of the mains pressure
> outside components.
>
> It may sound 'over complicated' to some but (but it isn't) but what I
> am trying to do is automate the process as much as possible whilst
> making best use of rainwater when available (I'm not on a water meter
> but just not wanting to 'waste'' good processed drinking water)?
>
> All the best and thanks for your time ...
>


Without detailed reference to water bylaws I wouls suggest the main 
objection would be guarding against possible submersion of the ball valve 
mechanism. How about using a float switch (or two and a relay - start and 
stop) with a solenoid valve to control the water flow. Make sure the mains 
discharges above the butt and is positioned to always ensure an air gap no 
matter how full the butt, thus avoiding back siphonage.

>>
> Why not use grey water to keep it topped up?


I don't think my memory is playing tricks, but during a drought a few
years ago I remember a water company person saying that they even
own the grey water and can demand that you do not use it. Anyone
else remember this?

Private Eye had a cartoon of two men peeing in a urinal (two of course!).
One had a briefcase labelled 'Yorkshire Water' and his pee was coming
out sideways through holes in his d**k.

-- 
__________________________________________________________

Peter Scott

Scanned for viruses using Norton 2005 before sending
__________________________________________________________

In article ,
	"Peter Scott"  writes:

>
>
>>>
>> Why not use grey water to keep it topped up?


You really don't want to be storing grey water.


>I don't think my memory is playing tricks, but during a drought a few
>years ago I remember a water company person saying that they even
>own the grey water and can demand that you do not use it. Anyone
>else remember this?


During a hosepipe ban, you can't use their supplied water
with a hose, even if you have used it for something else
first (such as washing).

-- 
Andrew Gabriel

On 10 Sep 2005 16:47:41 GMT, andrew@cucumber.demon.co.uk (Andrew
Gabriel) wrote:


>In article ,
>	"Peter Scott"  writes:
>>
>>
>>>>
>>> Why not use grey water to keep it topped up?
>
>You really don't want to be storing grey water.
>
>>I don't think my memory is playing tricks, but during a drought a few
>>years ago I remember a water company person saying that they even
>>own the grey water and can demand that you do not use it. Anyone
>>else remember this?
>
>During a hosepipe ban, you can't use their supplied water
>with a hose, even if you have used it for something else
>first (such as washing).



Hmmmmm.... wonder if that would include drinking tap water (not that
anyone would want to do that) and piddling on the rhubarb


-- 

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

"Peter Scott"  wrote in message 
news:_oGdnZ2dnZ2ngYuDnZ2dnY2Zvt6dnZ2dRVnypZ2dnZ0@brightview.com...

>
>
>>>
>> Why not use grey water to keep it topped up?
>
> I don't think my memory is playing tricks, but during a drought a few
> years ago I remember a water company person saying that they even
> own the grey water and can demand that you do not use it. Anyone
> else remember this?
>

A hosepipe ban is a ban on using hosepipes.  Even for beating prisoners and 
distributing grey water.

Not sure if a gutter around your garden fed from a tap is banned.  It breaks 
the reason for the law, but not the word of the law.

The fact is I shall respect their wishes when they replace or repair the 
leaky pipes they got for free off the victorians.  They waste more water 
through leaky pipes than people using hosepipes.

Bob

On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 12:39:21 +0000 (UTC), "John"
 wrote:

 I would probably modify a ballcock mech so that

>> the 'float' worked vertically via some guides in the water butt so
>> that the ballvalve could remain well clear of the water (no back
>> syphoning), and an overflow to ensure no overfilling (not that it
>> should with the 'Rain saver' / ballcock).
>>
>
>Without detailed reference to water bylaws I wouls suggest the main 
>objection would be guarding against possible submersion of the ball valve 
>mechanism.


I remember that one coming up re those 'silent' filler tubes on toilet
ball valves and double valves being required on outside taps etc? I
though about (but probably didn't put very well) a system (overflow /
weir) on the butt that would prevent any possible submersion of the
valve)?


 How about using a float switch (or two and a relay - start and 

>stop) with a solenoid valve to control the water flow. 


That one did go though my mind but was worried about 'over
complicating' (in the sense of cost / designing further systems) the
concept?

A std ball valve 'ball' and new straight 'shaft' standing vertically
in a length of plastic pipe fixed to a plate in the bottom of the
butt, joined to the arm where a std ball would be screwed with a
simple pivot. The weight of the arm / shaft should ensure that the
ball isn't 'too' bouyant (over closing the valve)?

I have extended the system (in my head <g>) where the output of the
low voltage pond pump transformer is split and used to power a
'remote' moisture probe and switch (inhibit) the pump when the
moisture levels are suitable (saving more water and avoiding
overwatering)?

With the electronics / electrical components being fed by a timer
there would be little energy wasted between 'On' points?

???

All the best ..

T i m

"Andrew Gabriel"  wrote in message 
news:43230e2d$0$38038$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk...

> In article ,
> "Peter Scott"  writes:
>>
>>
>>>>
>>> Why not use grey water to keep it topped up?
>
> You really don't want to be storing grey water.


No, it begins to smell after ashort time.

>
>>I don't think my memory is playing tricks, but during a drought a few
>>years ago I remember a water company person saying that they even
>>own the grey water and can demand that you do not use it. Anyone
>>else remember this?
>
> During a hosepipe ban, you can't use their supplied water
> with a hose, even if you have used it for something else
> first (such as washing).


There's plenty of rainwater from the roof, we don't need grey water for the 
garden.

Mary

>
> -- 
> Andrew Gabriel
> 

"Mary Fisher"  wrote in message
news:432495fe$0$5853$4c56ba96@master.news.zetnet.net...

>
> "Andrew Gabriel"  wrote in message
> news:43230e2d$0$38038$5a6aecb4@news.aaisp.net.uk...
> > In article
,
> > "Peter Scott"  writes:
> >>
> >>
> >>>>
> >>> Why not use grey water to keep it topped up?
> >
> > You really don't want to be storing grey water.
>
> No, it begins to smell after ashort time.
> >
> >>I don't think my memory is playing tricks, but during a drought a
few
> >>years ago I remember a water company person saying that they even
> >>own the grey water and can demand that you do not use it. Anyone
> >>else remember this?
> >
> > During a hosepipe ban, you can't use their supplied water
> > with a hose, even if you have used it for something else
> > first (such as washing).
>
> There's plenty of rainwater from the roof, we don't need grey water
for the
> garden.
>
> Mary
> >
> > -- 
> > Andrew Gabriel
> >
>
>



Hey that's not right! In my commercial premises (Launderette) they
CHARGE me extra to remove the 'effluent'
which is no different in content than output from a normal domestic
washing machine. If they charge me to take it
away it must be mine, on  the other hand, if it's already their's why
am I paying <GGGGG>

AWEM