I have replaced my sink but am not sure which side ti big rubber washer goes 
on.  There is a plughole bit, large rubber washer and a large black nut. 
Does the washer go under the plughole part i..e. above the sink or below 
i.e. between the sink bottom and the nut.  Thanks

In article <kc3Ue.5816$oq4.1857@newsfe5-win.ntli.net>,
	"wounded horse"  writes:

> I have replaced my sink but am not sure which side ti big rubber washer goes 
> on.  There is a plughole bit, large rubber washer and a large black nut. 
> Does the washer go under the plughole part i..e. above the sink or below 
> i.e. between the sink bottom and the nut.  Thanks 


The latter.

Sometimes there's a compressible foam washer for inside the
basin, more often nothing is provided. A leak here just means
the basin will slowly drain when the plug is in -- it doesn't
leak though. If this is an issue, you can put a line of silicone
inside the basin around the basin drain under the waste flange.

-- 
Andrew Gabriel

> Does the washer go under the plughole part i..e. above the sink or below
> i.e. between the sink bottom and the nut.  Thanks


Below. However, use silicone sealant both under the plug hole and between
the washer and the bottom if you want any chance of a good seal.

Christian.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Andrew Gabriel   wrote:


> In article <kc3Ue.5816$oq4.1857@newsfe5-win.ntli.net>,
> "wounded horse"  writes:
>> I have replaced my sink but am not sure which side ti big rubber
>> washer goes on.  There is a plughole bit, large rubber washer and a
>> large black nut. Does the washer go under the plughole part i..e.
>> above the sink or below i.e. between the sink bottom and the nut.
>> Thanks
>
> The latter.
>
> Sometimes there's a compressible foam washer for inside the
> basin, more often nothing is provided. A leak here just means
> the basin will slowly drain when the plug is in -- it doesn't
> leak though. If this is an issue, you can put a line of silicone
> inside the basin around the basin drain under the waste flange.


I could be wrong, but I suspect that the OP is talking about a single skin
kitchen sink (stainless steel or plastic) rather than about a bathroom
washbasin with built-in overflow.

If he *is*, I would put the rubber washer *inside* the sink, under the
flange of the waste fitting.
-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

> If he *is*, I would put the rubber washer *inside* the sink, under the
> flange of the waste fitting.


The problem there is that the washer pushes the waste up so that you
sometimes, depending on the pressing and the thicknesses of the components,
get a sharp lip from the edge of the waste. This collects solid waste and
prevents all the water draining away.

Christian.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Christian McArdle   wrote:


>> If he *is*, I would put the rubber washer *inside* the sink, under
>> the flange of the waste fitting.
>
> The problem there is that the washer pushes the waste up so that you
> sometimes, depending on the pressing and the thicknesses of the
> components, get a sharp lip from the edge of the waste. This collects
> solid waste and prevents all the water draining away.
>
> Christian.


All of my SS sinks are a bit dished where the waste attaches so that, even
with a thin rubber gasket under the waste flange, the top of the flange is
still lower than the surrounding sink area.
-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

> All of my SS sinks are a bit dished where the waste attaches so that, even
> with a thin rubber gasket under the waste flange, the top of the flange is
> still lower than the surrounding sink area.


Yes, it depends on the depth of the dish and the thickness of the washer.
When favourable, I doubt there is a real problem.

However, even at best, I prefer metal to metal contact, to reduce the amount
of filth that can hide invisibly between them.

Christian.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Christian McArdle   wrote:


>> All of my SS sinks are a bit dished where the waste attaches so
>> that, even with a thin rubber gasket under the waste flange, the top
>> of the flange is still lower than the surrounding sink area.
>
> Yes, it depends on the depth of the dish and the thickness of the
> washer. When favourable, I doubt there is a real problem.
>
> However, even at best, I prefer metal to metal contact, to reduce the
> amount of filth that can hide invisibly between them.
>
> Christian.


But doesn't the filth then hide under the flange?
-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
______
Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.

Set Square wrote:

> In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
> Andrew Gabriel   wrote:
> 
> 
>>In article <kc3Ue.5816$oq4.1857@newsfe5-win.ntli.net>,
>>"wounded horse"  writes:
>>
>>>I have replaced my sink but am not sure which side ti big rubber
>>>washer goes on.  There is a plughole bit, large rubber washer and a
>>>large black nut. Does the washer go under the plughole part i..e.
>>>above the sink or below i.e. between the sink bottom and the nut.
>>>Thanks
>>
>>The latter.
>>
>>Sometimes there's a compressible foam washer for inside the
>>basin, more often nothing is provided. A leak here just means
>>the basin will slowly drain when the plug is in -- it doesn't
>>leak though. If this is an issue, you can put a line of silicone
>>inside the basin around the basin drain under the waste flange.
> 
> 
> I could be wrong, but I suspect that the OP is talking about a single skin
> kitchen sink (stainless steel or plastic) rather than about a bathroom
> washbasin with built-in overflow.
> 
> If he *is*, I would put the rubber washer *inside* the sink, under the
> flange of the waste fitting.


Ok, fitted a kitchen sink an hour ago... Instructions went... 
Drain-hole, sink, rubber washer, back nut. With silicon between 
Drain-hole and sink.

Christian McArdle wrote:

> > Does the washer go under the plughole part i..e. above the sink or below
> > i.e. between the sink bottom and the nut.  Thanks
>
> Below. However, use silicone sealant both under the plug hole and between
> the washer and the bottom if you want any chance of a good seal.




110% endorse that.  A couple of years ago, after considerable trouble
getting a leak free joint using conventional methods such as plumbers
mait etc, this method worked in 1 go. You need setting sealant sold in
tubes for mastik guns.

Found the method on uk.d-i-y too! Regrettably cannot find the original
posting on Google, but whoever's suggestion it was is a genius!

On Sat, 10 Sep 2005 19:31:43 +0100, Mike Dodd <no-address@lo0> wrote:



>> I could be wrong, but I suspect that the OP is talking about a single skin
>> kitchen sink (stainless steel or plastic) rather than about a bathroom
>> washbasin with built-in overflow.
>> 
>> If he *is*, I would put the rubber washer *inside* the sink, under the
>> flange of the waste fitting.
>
>Ok, fitted a kitchen sink an hour ago... Instructions went... 
>Drain-hole, sink, rubber washer, back nut. With silicon between 
>Drain-hole and sink.


Plumbers used to use lashings and lashings of Boss-White before this
new fangled silicone stuff.

DG

Christian McArdle wrote:

>>Does the washer go under the plughole part i..e. above the sink or below
>>i.e. between the sink bottom and the nut.  Thanks
> 
> 
> Below. However, use silicone sealant both under the plug hole and between
> the washer and the bottom if you want any chance of a good seal.
> 
> Christian.
> 
> 


Doesn't the silicon cause problems if you ever have need to remove the 
waste?

>> Below. However, use silicone sealant both under the plug hole and between
>> the washer and the bottom if you want any chance of a good seal.
>
> Doesn't the silicon cause problems if you ever have need to remove the
> waste?


Silicone's pretty weak in tension.

Christian.

Christian McArdle wrote:

>>>Below. However, use silicone sealant both under the plug hole and between
>>>the washer and the bottom if you want any chance of a good seal.
>>
>>Doesn't the silicon cause problems if you ever have need to remove the
>>waste?
> 
> Silicone's pretty weak in tension.


But if it's adhering well to both surfaces, it's an *absolute
abstrad* to break the joint. It's used to glue glass fish tanks
together, for example.

On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 10:55:50 +0100, Chris Bacon 
scrawled:


>But if it's adhering well to both surfaces, it's an *absolute
>abstrad* to break the joint. It's used to glue glass fish tanks
>together, for example.


Different type of silicone. If you used normal 'silicone in a tube
from Wickes' to assemble a fish tank you'd have a wet floor.
-- 
Stuart @ SJW Electrical

Please Reply to group

In message , Chris Bacon  
writes

>Christian McArdle wrote:
>>>>Below. However, use silicone sealant both under the plug hole and between
>>>>the washer and the bottom if you want any chance of a good seal.
>>>
>>>Doesn't the silicon cause problems if you ever have need to remove the
>>>waste?
>>  Silicone's pretty weak in tension.
>
>But if it's adhering well to both surfaces, it's an *absolute
>abstrad* to break the joint. It's used to glue glass fish tanks
>together, for example.


Yeah - my tank holds 1/3 ton of water held together just with silicone

-- 
geoff

In message , Lurch 
 writes

>On Mon, 12 Sep 2005 10:55:50 +0100, Chris Bacon 
>scrawled:
>
>>But if it's adhering well to both surfaces, it's an *absolute
>>abstrad* to break the joint. It's used to glue glass fish tanks
>>together, for example.
>
>Different type of silicone. If you used normal 'silicone in a tube
>from Wickes' to assemble a fish tank you'd have a wet floor.


Is that not just an acrylic sealant rather than silicone ?

-- 
geoff

raden wrote:

> Lurch writes
>> Chris Bacon scrawled:
>>> But if it's adhering well to both surfaces, it's an *absolute
>>> abstrad* to break the joint. It's used to glue glass fish tanks
>>> together, for example.
>>
>> Different type of silicone. If you used normal 'silicone in a tube
>> from Wickes' to assemble a fish tank you'd have a wet floor.
> 
> Is that not just an acrylic sealant rather than silicone ?


As far as I know, in a nutshell for us DIY users, there's low-high
modulus neutral-acid cure silicone, then silicone sealant "compound"
with "filler" to make it cheap, then a *load* of other stuff which
is mistaken for silicone sealant. If it's "silicone in a tube" that's
so poor, then it ain't proper silicone rubber. Dow Corning, who made
the silicone rubber I used to experiment with many years ago, have
some really nice info at:

http://www.dowcorning.com/content/rubber/silicone-rubber.asp


I'm sure there's more out there.