Hi all.

Stair bannister time... My (Loft) stairs are in & they have short posts
where the newels go, with holes in them... How exactly do I fix the
newels to the posts that are there? DO the newels come with large ieces
of dowel? Or do I have to drill & then insert a piece? How should they
then be held on the post? Just screws through the centre? Or just glue it?

Does it work very well if it's screwedso the bannister can be removed
for getting large furniture up & down the stairs?

Oh yeah... How does the bannister fit onto the newels themselves? Slots
& tounges? Or something else?


TIA

Hamish.

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Hamie   wrote:


> Hi all.
>
> Stair bannister time... My (Loft) stairs are in & they have short
> posts where the newels go, with holes in them... How exactly do I fix
> the newels to the posts that are there? DO the newels come with large
> ieces of dowel? Or do I have to drill & then insert a piece? How
> should they then be held on the post? Just screws through the centre?
> Or just glue it?
>
> Does it work very well if it's screwedso the bannister can be removed
> for getting large furniture up & down the stairs?
>
> Oh yeah... How does the bannister fit onto the newels themselves?
> Slots & tounges? Or something else?
>
>
> TIA
>
> Hamish.


A lot depends on what system you're using. There are several different ones,
which fit together differently. There's lots of good information on the
Richard Burbidge site at http://www.richardburbidge.co.uk/main.asp?page=62
-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
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Hamie wrote:


> Stair bannister time... My (Loft) stairs are in & they have short posts
> where the newels go, with holes in them... How exactly do I fix the
> newels to the posts that are there? DO the newels come with large ieces
> of dowel? Or do I have to drill & then insert a piece? How should they
> then be held on the post? Just screws through the centre? Or just glue it?


If you buy a partial newel (i.e. the top bit only without a base) it 
will have a (typically 2") spigot on the base.

If you want a permanent fixing then chisel a flat on one side (so that 
air can escape), glue up and tap into place in the hole - it should be a 
nice snug fit.


> Does it work very well if it's screwedso the bannister can be removed
> for getting large furniture up & down the stairs?


I did my ones by making up the whole banister as a "panel", so that the 
newel, handrail, spindles, and base rail are all one construction that 
can be unscrewed and removed.


> Oh yeah... How does the bannister fit onto the newels themselves? Slots
> & tounges? Or something else?


Drill and chisel a mortice in the square part of the newel, then cut a 
tenon on the end of the hand rail. Glue and possibly use a small pin / 
dowel nail through the side if you want it fixed, or leave it loose or 
screw through the side if you want to remove it.

In true BluePeter tradition, here is one I made earlier:

http://www.internode.co.uk/loft/stairs.htm


-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk            |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
\=================================================================/

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John Rumm   wrote:


>
> In true BluePeter tradition, here is one I made earlier:
>
> http://www.internode.co.uk/loft/stairs.htm
>
>

If you want to be able to take it apart when moving furniture, you could
consider the Burbidge Fusion system - which is entirely held together with
screws. I used it to replace the old ranch-style bannister in my house. You
can see a (rather grainy!) picture of my efforts at:
http://www.hampton-magna.freeserve.co.uk/after.JPG

-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
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Set Square wrote:


> If you want to be able to take it apart when moving furniture, you could
> consider the Burbidge Fusion system - which is entirely held together with
> screws. I used it to replace the old ranch-style bannister in my house. You
> can see a (rather grainy!) picture of my efforts at:
> http://www.hampton-magna.freeserve.co.uk/after.JPG


Looks good. How many screws need to come out to shift them though?

(the top panel on mine requires 4 screws to be removed to take out the 
whole banister - in theory, not had to do it yet!)

-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk            |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
\=================================================================/

In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
John Rumm   wrote:


> Set Square wrote:
>
>> You can see a (rather grainy!) picture of my
>> efforts at: http://www.hampton-magna.freeserve.co.uk/after.JPG
>
> Looks good. How many screws need to come out to shift them though?
>

Quite a lot! Each spoke has 4 screws - 2 at the top into the handrail, and 2
at the bottom into the base rail. The handrail end sockets simply bolt onto
brackets on the newel posts.

In my case, I could probably undo all the bottom fixings (19 x 2screws),
unbolt the handrail - one bolt each end - and lift the handrail off with the
spokes still attached to it. The bottom newel post can then be taken out of
its socket, after removing a couple of screws.

Alternatively, I may be able to remove the whole thing including the base
rail - but this is screwed down to the stringer with a few screws hidden
under spoke feet. So I'd have to know where the screws are, and remove a few
spokes to get at them.

It *could* be done, and could be re-assembled without damage - but it's not
something I would want to do too often!
-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
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