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Close coupled cistern installation   
I have a  close-coupled toilet. The cistern naturally enough sits on the
toilet but has no screw holes for attachment to the wall. Should it be left
sitting or should something like silicon be applied to the rear surface to
form a bond with the wall? or... ?

Thanks,

Paul
Date:Tue, 06 Sep 2005 21:32:16 GMT   Author:  

Re: Close coupled cistern installation   
My one I installed a few weeks back is left sitting and is fine, just
make sure the wingnuts are tight which bolt it to the pan and you
should be fine. You could however as you suggest use a blob of silicone
or gripfill it to the back of the wall. I would be worried about the
state the wall would be left in though  if I had to remove it at a
later date.

Cheers

Richard
Date:6 Sep 2005 16:20:06 -0700   Author:  

Re: Close coupled cistern installation   
Thanks Richard.
Date:Wed, 07 Sep 2005 09:10:26 GMT   Author:  

Re: Close coupled cistern installation   
Due to my soil pipe mine was about 2cm away from the wall when I
installed it. Knowing how rough some of our house guest can be in their
actions I fixed a small strip of wood to the back wall the width of the
gap to absorb any sudden impacts against the cistern. If mounted at
about 2 thirds of the way up the cistern then it's not easily visible
and painting it white also helped it to blend in.

Seri
Date:7 Sep 2005 13:32:28 -0700   Author:  

Re: Close coupled cistern installation   
"Paul Andrews" <ac297@dial.pipex.commmmm> wrote in message 
news:AVnTe.6058$7p1.5697@newsfe7-win.ntli.net...

>I have a  close-coupled toilet. The cistern naturally enough sits on the
> toilet but has no screw holes for attachment to the wall. Should it be 
> left
> sitting or should something like silicon be applied to the rear surface to
> form a bond with the wall? or... ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul


It's not a Madrid suite from Been & Queued is it?  I have just installed one 
of these for someone and the cistern did not have any holes to fix it to the 
wall.  I have never seen a cistern before without these holes, and I have 
installed/repaired 100's.  I rang B & Q as I thought it might be a faulty 
one to be told by the 'bathroom consultant' that "On the budget suites there 
aren't any holes, you stick it to the wall with silicon".  I asked how it 
would be removed if needed i.e. doughnut washer change, or if it leaked 
after installation etc. to which he replied "I've never thought of that". I 
also pointed out that on the 'budget' suites you were actually getting more 
porcelain for you money, i.e. no holes, but that went straight over his 
head!

I needed some fixing holes so decided to drill it, even with good quality 
tile drills and masonry bits two 8mm holes took nearly 2 hours!  I have 
never drilled anything as hard as that before in my life!  You could try 
this but go VERY SLOWLY and keep allowing the drills to cool down. If you 
can get the surface you are drilling somewhat horizontally level you could 
put a ring of putty around the drill site and put some oil (or water) in 
there to help the cutting and cooling process

John
Date:Fri, 9 Sep 2005 06:25:05 +0000 (UTC)   Author:  

Re: Close coupled cistern installation   
"John"  wrote in message 
news:dfr9s1$e24$1@nwrdmz01.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...

> "Paul Andrews" <ac297@dial.pipex.commmmm> wrote in message 
> news:AVnTe.6058$7p1.5697@newsfe7-win.ntli.net...
>>I have a  close-coupled toilet. The cistern naturally enough sits on the
>> toilet but has no screw holes for attachment to the wall. Should it be 
>> left
>> sitting or should something like silicon be applied to the rear surface 
>> to
>> form a bond with the wall? or... ?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Paul
>
> It's not a Madrid suite from Been & Queued is it?  I have just installed 
> one of these for someone and the cistern did not have any holes to fix it 
> to the wall.  I have never seen a cistern before without these holes, and 
> I have installed/repaired 100's.  I rang B & Q as I thought it might be a 
> faulty one to be told by the 'bathroom consultant' that "On the budget 
> suites there aren't any holes, you stick it to the wall with silicon".  I 
> asked how it would be removed if needed i.e. doughnut washer change, or if 
> it leaked after installation etc. to which he replied "I've never thought 
> of that". I also pointed out that on the 'budget' suites you were actually 
> getting more porcelain for you money, i.e. no holes, but that went 
> straight over his head!
>

Ah, John ... you haven't done the bean-counters' course ...
"Holes" is extra: 'holes' have to obtained from stores as
raw stock; turned to the appropriate diameter, then cut-off
to the appropriate thickness before being carefully aligned
and inserted nto the porcelain ... .[There's much generation of
store-cards, movement orders and Inspectors' chitties too].
You want hole? ... you've got to pay for them.


> I needed some fixing holes so decided to drill it, even with good quality 
> tile drills and masonry bits two 8mm holes took nearly 2 hours!  I have 
> never drilled anything as hard as that before in my life!  You could try 
> this but go VERY SLOWLY and keep allowing the drills to cool down. If you 
> can get the surface you are drilling somewhat horizontally level you could 
> put a ring of putty around the drill site and put some oil (or water) in 
> there to help the cutting and cooling process
>

See; you've just confirmed how difficult it must be to get the
'holes' inserted ... (of course, one could just leave out the clay -
but that's require thought -which is probably not part of 'Design &
Technology' syllabi nowadays}

-- 

Brian
Date:Fri, 09 Sep 2005 08:35:20 GMT   Author:  

Re: Close coupled cistern installation   
In article <dfr9s1$e24$1@nwrdmz01.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com>, John wrote:

> It's not a Madrid suite from Been & Queued is it?  I have just installed one 
> of these for someone and the cistern did not have any holes to fix it to the 
> wall.  I have never seen a cistern before without these holes, and I have 
> installed/repaired 100's.  I rang B & Q as I thought it might be a faulty 
> one to be told by the 'bathroom consultant' that "On the budget suites there 
> aren't any holes, you stick it to the wall with silicon".  I asked how it 
> would be removed if needed i.e. doughnut washer change, or if it leaked 
> after installation etc. to which he replied "I've never thought of that".


I've got the same. The weight is taken by the pan so you only need a couple of 
small dabs to silicon to steady the cistern which can be easily cut through 
with a piece of wire or similar if necessary.

The problem I've got to fix is with the push button flush. You screw the button 
part in without tightening it. A month later a combination of water, surface 
tension etc now makes it irremovable without removing the cistern from the pan. 
When I do it I'll probably file off most of the thread and reassemble with 
silicon grease.

-- 
Tony Bryer SDA UK  'Software to build on'  http://www.sda.co.uk
Free SEDBUK boiler database browser http://www.sda.co.uk/qsedbuk.htm
[Latest version QSEDBUK 1.10 released 4 April 2005]
Date:Fri, 09 Sep 2005 11:46:30 +0100   Author:  

Re: Close coupled cistern installation   
In an earlier contribution to this discussion,
Paul Andrews <ac297@dial.pipex.commmmm>  wrote:


> I have a  close-coupled toilet. The cistern naturally enough sits on
> the toilet but has no screw holes for attachment to the wall. Should
> it be left sitting or should something like silicon be applied to the
> rear surface to form a bond with the wall? or... ?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Paul


I think that if I were faced with that situation, I would make a couple of
cranked brackets - to be screwed to the wall just above the body of the
cistern, and which extended over the top of back, and just down inside.
These would be completely hidden by the lid.
-- 
Cheers,
Set Square
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Please reply to newsgroup. Reply address is invalid.
Date:Fri, 9 Sep 2005 12:36:23 +0100   Author:  

Re: Close coupled cistern installation   
Brian Sharrock wrote:

> Ah, John ... you haven't done the bean-counters' course ...
> "Holes" is extra: 'holes' have to obtained from stores as
> raw stock; turned to the appropriate diameter, then cut-off
> to the appropriate thickness before being carefully aligned
> and inserted nto the porcelain ... .[There's much generation of
> store-cards, movement orders and Inspectors' chitties too].


I think you're a little out of date. Holes now have to be ordered six 
months in advance from a manufactory in the Orient and spend a further 
three months rotting on a tramp steamer while the Kuala Lumpur Seamen's 
Union resolves its terms and conditions dispute. You can't expect holes 
to turn up at the same time as the porcelain. Management didn't spend 
three weeks on a Quality Circles bunfight^Wcourse so that apertures 
could arrive contempraneously with the china.

I expect if you go back to the shop three months after you've fitted it, 
you'll find they've got an overstock of holes reduced to 10p each.


> You want hole? ... you've got to pay for them.


That's so true ;-)

Owain
Date:Fri, 09 Sep 2005 13:52:41 +0100   Author: