Tis here:

http://www.internode.co.uk/diyfaq/plane.htm

Comments here!


-- 
Cheers,

John.

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|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk            |
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|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
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Looks very useful, thanks.

Any chance of a stapler/nailer FAQ?

Thanks again

On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 05:38:00 +0100, John Rumm  
 wrote:


> http://www.internode.co.uk/diyfaq/plane.htm

> Comments here!


Might be worth pointing out that if you are planing across the grain, you  
need to enter the cut from both sides in succession, meeting at the centre  
rather than simply running across the cut. Otherwise the wood splits and  
you have to glue the stile of the door together afterwards. Somewhere I  
have a DIY gold medal for that among my collection of medals awarded for  
own goals.

John Schmitt

-- 
Using Opera's revolutionary e-mail client: http://www.opera.com/mail/

John Schmitt wrote:


> Might be worth pointing out that if you are planing across the grain, 
> you  need to enter the cut from both sides in succession, meeting at the 
> centre  rather than simply running across the cut. Otherwise the wood 
> splits and  you have to glue the stile of the door together afterwards. 
> Somewhere I  have a DIY gold medal for that among my collection of 
> medals awarded for  own goals.


Yup I will add that. The other trick it to clamp a "spelch block" at the 
end to support the end. That way the wood that splits is your 
sacrificial bit and not what you want to look nice!

-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk            |
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|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
\=================================================================/

On Mon, 05 Sep 2005 05:38:00 +0100, John Rumm
 wrote:


>
>Tis here:
>
>http://www.internode.co.uk/diyfaq/plane.htm
>
>Comments here!


I think that it's worth pointing out that it's not necessarily a good
idea to buy based on motor power and maximum depth of cut.

Trying to do 3mm or more out of a planer with poor mechanics is going
to give poor results.

It's better for most jobs to go for lighter cuts in the 1-2mm range
since it gives better control and opportunity to correct any mistakes
along the length of the run.



-- 

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

jg wrote:


> Looks very useful, thanks.
> 
> Any chance of a stapler/nailer FAQ?


Possibly...

I take it you mean electric or pneumatic nailers?

I don't think I am qualified to write all of it however since I only 
have actual experiance of one. I might stick the framework together...


-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk            |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
\=================================================================/

jg wrote:


> Any chance of a stapler/nailer FAQ?


OK lashed together in a rush...

http://www.internode.co.uk/diyfaq/nailer.htm


-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk            |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
\=================================================================/

On Tue, 06 Sep 2005 07:00:07 +0100, John Rumm
 wrote:


>jg wrote:
>
>> Any chance of a stapler/nailer FAQ?
>
>OK lashed together in a rush...
>
>http://www.internode.co.uk/diyfaq/nailer.htm



This is very good, John.  Two points.

- Bump nailing mode normally requires the addition of a component
orderable from the manufacturer, or some other change to the safety
and trigger mechanisms.   The default is usually trigger operation
which is somewhat safer, albeit slower. 

- Oiling is essential rather than a nice to have.  It can be done via
an inline oiler as you suggest, a filter/regulator/lubricator unit on
the airline or by putting a few drops into the hose connector on the
tool before each working session

-- 

..andy

To email, substitute .nospam with .gl

Andy Hall wrote:


> - Bump nailing mode normally requires the addition of a component
> orderable from the manufacturer, or some other change to the safety
> and trigger mechanisms.   The default is usually trigger operation
> which is somewhat safer, albeit slower. 


OK, my lack of experiance with different models. My basic one had bump 
as standard, so I assumed they all did.



> - Oiling is essential rather than a nice to have.  It can be done via


Yes, reading what I wrote it was probably not strong enough. I was not 
intending to imply it was optional!


> an inline oiler as you suggest, a filter/regulator/lubricator unit on
> the airline or by putting a few drops into the hose connector on the
> tool before each working session


Tis what I used to do with my one before someone sold me a nice inline 
oiler at a knock down price ;-)

(still give it the occational drink that way just to be on the safe side)

-- 
Cheers,

John.

/=================================================================\
|          Internode Ltd -  http://www.internode.co.uk            |
|-----------------------------------------------------------------|
|        John Rumm - john(at)internode(dot)co(dot)uk              |
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