Hi,

I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo? 
Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I 
have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.

The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get 
trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.

So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and 
squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I 
have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so 
could this be a reason?

It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am 
a long way from home :-)

Thanks for any advice or info,


J.

run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the lock like
WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)


"John Smith"  wrote in message
news:c4ERe.1876$h54.245@newsfe6-gui.ntli.net...

> Hi,
>
> I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo?
> Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months
I
> have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.
>
> The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get
> trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.
>
> So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and
> squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I
> have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so
> could this be a reason?
>
> It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I
am
> a long way from home :-)
>
> Thanks for any advice or info,
>
>
> J.
>
>

On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:17:44 GMT, "John Smith"
 wrote:


>Hi,
>
>I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo? 
>Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I 
>have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.
>
>The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get 
>trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.
>
>So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and 
>squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I 
>have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so 
>could this be a reason?
>
>It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am 
>a long way from home :-)


Is it the original key? Sometimes re-cut keys can cause this problem.

Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
oily contamination can catch fire.

sponix

In article , wibble@email.com 
says...

> On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:17:44 GMT, "John Smith"
>  wrote:
> 
> >Hi,
> >
> >I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo? 
> >Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I 
> >have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.
> >
> >The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get 
> >trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.
> >
> >So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and 
> >squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I 
> >have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so 
> >could this be a reason?
> >
> >It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am 
> >a long way from home :-)
> 
> Is it the original key? Sometimes re-cut keys can cause this problem.
> 
> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
> oily contamination can catch fire.
> 

But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?

In article , wibble@email.com 
says...

> On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:17:44 GMT, "John Smith"
>  wrote:
> 
> >Hi,
> >
> >I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo? 
> >Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I 
> >have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.
> >
> >The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get 
> >trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.
> >
> >So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and 
> >squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I 
> >have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so 
> >could this be a reason?
> >
> >It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am 
> >a long way from home :-)
> 
> Is it the original key? Sometimes re-cut keys can cause this problem.
> 
> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
> oily contamination can catch fire.
> 

But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?

"s--p--o--n--i--x"  wrote in message 
news:4317112c.21842437@news.individual.net...


>
> Is it the original key? Sometimes re-cut keys can cause this problem.
>
> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
> oily contamination can catch fire.
>
> sponix


Yes, it is the original key - or rather one of the two original keys. I am 
going to try and dig out the other one. The one I curently use is the second 
one I used after the fob broke off the first one.

"s--p--o--n--i--x"  wrote in message 
news:4317112c.21842437@news.individual.net...


>
> Is it the original key? Sometimes re-cut keys can cause this problem.
>
> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
> oily contamination can catch fire.
>
> sponix


Yes, it is the original key - or rather one of the two original keys. I am 
going to try and dig out the other one. The one I curently use is the second 
one I used after the fob broke off the first one.

Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same 
on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go 
:)

Hellraiser...........>

Rob Morley wrote:

> In article , wibble@email.com
> says...
>> On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:17:44 GMT, "John Smith"
>>  wrote:

>>
>> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
>> oily contamination can catch fire.
>>
> But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?


So is the steel the key is made from!! It's the flammability of the oil 
that's a problem, not it's electrical properties. Graphite will be fine.

Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same 
on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go 
:)

Hellraiser...........>

Rob Morley wrote:

> In article , wibble@email.com
> says...
>> On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 14:17:44 GMT, "John Smith"
>>  wrote:

>>
>> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
>> oily contamination can catch fire.
>>
> But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?


So is the steel the key is made from!! It's the flammability of the oil 
that's a problem, not it's electrical properties. Graphite will be fine.

On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 15:55:21 +0100, Rob Morley 
wrote:


>
>> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
>> oily contamination can catch fire.
>> 
>But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?


Graphite powder won't seep into the switch mechanism like oil will.

If the key is sticking then either the key is wrong (poorly cut or
worn) or the lock is worn.

Try ebay-you may find a brand new lock/key for not a lot of money.

sponix

"Hellraiser"  wrote in message 
news:3noubfF2lahtU1@individual.net...

> Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same 
> on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go 
> :)
>
> Hellraiser...........>
>


I agree on the flamability. Better to use Servisol Switch Lube. The trouble 
is that you don't really know if the problem is the lock cylinder, the 
steering lock mechanism - or the switch. Ideally they should each be treated 
differently. Oil on alloy barrels can form a sludgy gum.

John

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:

> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
> oily contamination can catch fire.


Hirsty's wrote:

> run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the
> lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)


Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  The solvent 
carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and 
there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it 
cleans things.  I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and 
never had the slightest trouble.

IMO a wonderful product.

Dave

On Thu, 1 Sep 2005 15:55:21 +0100, Rob Morley 
wrote:


>
>> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
>> oily contamination can catch fire.
>> 
>But graphite powder is a conductor - what do you suggest?


Graphite powder won't seep into the switch mechanism like oil will.

If the key is sticking then either the key is wrong (poorly cut or
worn) or the lock is worn.

Try ebay-you may find a brand new lock/key for not a lot of money.

sponix

"Hellraiser"  wrote in message 
news:3noubfF2lahtU1@individual.net...

> Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same 
> on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go 
> :)
>
> Hellraiser...........>
>


I agree on the flamability. Better to use Servisol Switch Lube. The trouble 
is that you don't really know if the problem is the lock cylinder, the 
steering lock mechanism - or the switch. Ideally they should each be treated 
differently. Oil on alloy barrels can form a sludgy gum.

John

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:

> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
> oily contamination can catch fire.


Hirsty's wrote:

> run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the
> lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)


Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  The solvent 
carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and 
there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it 
cleans things.  I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and 
never had the slightest trouble.

IMO a wonderful product.

Dave

"david lang"  wrote:


>s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
>> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
>> oily contamination can catch fire.
>
>Hirsty's wrote:
>> run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the
>> lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)
>
>Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  The solvent 
>carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and 
>there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it 
>cleans things.  I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and 
>never had the slightest trouble.
>
>IMO a wonderful product.


WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant.  But it's not
a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid
and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.

The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
graphite. 

Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will
have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or piss,
or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the
key to work.  A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry
powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C
(and even lower)

Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant
at all is used on ignition key barrels.


--

In article , hellraiser1
@nospam.blueyonder.co.uk says...

> Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same 
> on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go 
> :)


Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same - 
but in her case it's definetely the key.

-- 
AG

Remove removes from address to remove anti-spam measures.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Alan Gauton           E-Mail agauton @ postmaster.co.uk

Never for me the lowered banner, never the last endeavour! 
					    (Damon Hill - 16th June 1999)

In article , 
paint@duluxtheshaggydog.com says...

> "david lang"  wrote:
> 
> >s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
> >> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
> >> oily contamination can catch fire.
> >
> >Hirsty's wrote:
> >> run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the
> >> lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)
> >
> >Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  The solvent 
> >carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and 
> >there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it 
> >cleans things.  I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and 
> >never had the slightest trouble.
> >
> >IMO a wonderful product.
> 
> WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant.  But it's not
> a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid
> and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.
> 
> The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
> graphite. 
> 
> Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will
> have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or piss,
> or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the
> key to work.  A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry
> powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C
> (and even lower)
> 
> Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant
> at all is used on ignition key barrels.


I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels? 
Is it available in aerosol form? 

Cheers,
-- 
James Dore,
IT Officer,
New College
james.dore@new / it-support@new

Matt wrote:


> WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant.  But it's not
> a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid
> and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.
> 
> The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
> graphite.
> 
> Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will
> have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or piss,
> or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the
> key to work.  A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry
> powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C
> (and even lower)
> 

I understand completely the reasoning behind not using WD40. However, every
winter for perhaps 30 or more years I have sprayed it in to my car locks
perhaps once a month. Some of the cars I have owned for 6 years. I have
*never* been unable to open the doors even when others around me have had 
problems.

WD40 is available everywhere, but I have not seen powdered graphite for sale
anywhere. (Not that it has been top of my shopping list though!) 


> Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant
> at all is used on ignition key barrels.


I think most do. Once the lock has reached the point of jamming I would
consider replacement is the best option.

Chris

-- 
Remove prejudice to reply

On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 21:45:02 GMT, "david lang"
 wrote:


>Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  The solvent 
>carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and 
>there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it 
>cleans things.  I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and 
>never had the slightest trouble.


I don't have a downer on WD40, far from it I think it's great!

However, over many years of working on cars I have been advised never
to use any sort of liquid lubricant on ignition barrels. (A number of
car fires have started due to the ignition switch overheating.) 

sponix

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:20:07 UTC, James Dore 
 wrote:


> I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels? 
> Is it available in aerosol form? 


Not quite. A plastic puffer package. Think of the little green 
containers for Resin W wood glue - a bit like that, but smaller. 
Typically no more than a couple of quid.

-- 
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
   http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 10:20:07 +0100, James Dore
 wrote:


>I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels? 
>Is it available in aerosol form? 


As far as I know you can buy it in a little 'puffer' bottle.

sponix

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:50:39 +0100, Alan Gauton
 wrote:


>In article , hellraiser1
>@nospam.blueyonder.co.uk says...
>> Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same 
>> on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go 
>> :)
>
>Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same - 
>but in her case it's definetely the key.


Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for
sub frames and body panels!

In uk.d-i-y Matt  wrote:
<snip>

> The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
> graphite. 


Interestingly, the last small yale padlock I had recommended WD40.

"david lang"  wrote:


>s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
>> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
>> oily contamination can catch fire.
>
>Hirsty's wrote:
>> run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the
>> lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)
>
>Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  The solvent 
>carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and 
>there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it 
>cleans things.  I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and 
>never had the slightest trouble.
>
>IMO a wonderful product.


WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant.  But it's not
a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid
and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.

The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
graphite. 

Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will
have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or piss,
or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the
key to work.  A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry
powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C
(and even lower)

Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant
at all is used on ignition key barrels.


--

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:


> Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for
> sub frames and body panels!


I was always told FIAT stood for Fix It Again Tomorrow :-)

Dave

In article , hellraiser1
@nospam.blueyonder.co.uk says...

> Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same 
> on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go 
> :)


Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same - 
but in her case it's definetely the key.

-- 
AG

Remove removes from address to remove anti-spam measures.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Alan Gauton           E-Mail agauton @ postmaster.co.uk

Never for me the lowered banner, never the last endeavour! 
					    (Damon Hill - 16th June 1999)

In article <F0JRe.4050$k4.1517@newsfe4-win.ntli.net>, john says...


> I agree on the flamability. 


Another muppet.


-- 
Conor

"You're not married, you haven't got a girlfriend and you've never seen 
Star Trek? Good Lord!" - Patrick Stewart, Extras.

In article , 
paint@duluxtheshaggydog.com says...

> "david lang"  wrote:
> 
> >s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:
> >> Don't use WD40 as ignition barrels switch fairly high currents. Any
> >> oily contamination can catch fire.
> >
> >Hirsty's wrote:
> >> run a soft lead pencil up and down the key as it will not clog the
> >> lock like WD40 does ( locksmiths use it all the time)
> >
> >Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  The solvent 
> >carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and 
> >there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it 
> >cleans things.  I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and 
> >never had the slightest trouble.
> >
> >IMO a wonderful product.
> 
> WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant.  But it's not
> a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid
> and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.
> 
> The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
> graphite. 
> 
> Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will
> have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or piss,
> or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the
> key to work.  A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry
> powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C
> (and even lower)
> 
> Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant
> at all is used on ignition key barrels.


I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels? 
Is it available in aerosol form? 

Cheers,
-- 
James Dore,
IT Officer,
New College
james.dore@new / it-support@new

It comes in plastic 'puffer' bottles - you squeeze the bottle and a
puff of graphite comes out.

In article , pyruse
<URL:mailto:steve.and.mary.burt@gmail.com> wrote:


> It comes in plastic 'puffer' bottles - you squeeze the bottle and a
> puff of graphite comes out.


Without any context, your comment raises eyebrows.

-- 
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd         :  Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk   :  http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

        **   Would you like to learn to post effectively?      **
        **   http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post       **

Matt wrote:


> WD40 has a place as a moderately good water dispersant.  But it's not
> a particularly good lubricant, it's certainly not a penetrating fluid
> and it's worse than useless for lock barrel lubrication.
> 
> The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
> graphite.
> 
> Anyone who happens to leave their car outside during cold weather will
> have no end of problems getting into the car if WD40, or oil, or piss,
> or lock defroster, or deicer, or a hot kettle has been used to get the
> key to work.  A flush through with isopropyl alcohol followed by dry
> powdered graphite and the locks will still open when its -25 deg C
> (and even lower)
> 

I understand completely the reasoning behind not using WD40. However, every
winter for perhaps 30 or more years I have sprayed it in to my car locks
perhaps once a month. Some of the cars I have owned for 6 years. I have
*never* been unable to open the doors even when others around me have had 
problems.

WD40 is available everywhere, but I have not seen powdered graphite for sale
anywhere. (Not that it has been top of my shopping list though!) 


> Quite a few vehicle manufacturers actually recommend that NO lubricant
> at all is used on ignition key barrels.


I think most do. Once the lock has reached the point of jamming I would
consider replacement is the best option.

Chris

-- 
Remove prejudice to reply

On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 21:45:02 GMT, "david lang"
 wrote:


>Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  The solvent 
>carrier in WD40 could catch fire true, but its gone in a few seconds and 
>there is no reason why it should clog anything up - quite the opposite, it 
>cleans things.  I've used it on all sorts of locks for years and years and 
>never had the slightest trouble.


I don't have a downer on WD40, far from it I think it's great!

However, over many years of working on cars I have been advised never
to use any sort of liquid lubricant on ignition barrels. (A number of
car fires have started due to the ignition switch overheating.) 

sponix

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:20:07 UTC, James Dore 
 wrote:


> I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels? 
> Is it available in aerosol form? 


Not quite. A plastic puffer package. Think of the little green 
containers for Resin W wood glue - a bit like that, but smaller. 
Typically no more than a couple of quid.

-- 
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
   http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 10:20:07 +0100, James Dore
 wrote:


>I'm intruiged - how does one apply powedered graphite to lock barrels? 
>Is it available in aerosol form? 


As far as I know you can buy it in a little 'puffer' bottle.

sponix

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:50:39 +0100, Alan Gauton
 wrote:


>In article , hellraiser1
>@nospam.blueyonder.co.uk says...
>> Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the same 
>> on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another go 
>> :)
>
>Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same - 
>but in her case it's definetely the key.


Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for
sub frames and body panels!

Chris Whelan wrote:


> WD40 is available everywhere, but I have not seen powdered graphite for sale
> anywhere.


I inherited a jar of it from my grandfather. Unfortunately, I also 
inherited a similar jar of iron filings from him. One's a better 
lubricant of Bendix starter motors gears than the other...

On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:41:36 UTC, Chris Whelan 
 wrote:


> WD40 is available everywhere, but I have not seen powdered graphite for sale
> anywhere.


  http://www.cpc.co.uk

Part number ME18361 ...

-- 
The information contained in this post is copyright the
poster, and specifically may not be published in, or used by
   http://laminateflooring.oncloud8.com

In uk.d-i-y Matt  wrote:
<snip>

> The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
> graphite. 


Interestingly, the last small yale padlock I had recommended WD40.

s--p--o--n--i--x wrote:


> Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for
> sub frames and body panels!


I was always told FIAT stood for Fix It Again Tomorrow :-)

Dave

In article <F0JRe.4050$k4.1517@newsfe4-win.ntli.net>, john says...


> I agree on the flamability. 


Another muppet.


-- 
Conor

"You're not married, you haven't got a girlfriend and you've never seen 
Star Trek? Good Lord!" - Patrick Stewart, Extras.

John Smith wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo? 
> Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I 
> have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.
> 
> The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get 
> trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.
> 
> So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and 
> squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I 
> have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so 
> could this be a reason?
> 
> It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am 
> a long way from home :-)
> 
> Thanks for any advice or info,
> 


Before you set light to the car with WD40, it's not the steering lock is 
it?  Does the key release if you ease the steering wheel one way or the 
other?

I think all my cars have locked the ignition key occasionally and it is 
easily reproducable like this:

1.  Stop the car with the front wheels slightly turned.

2.  Remove the key.  In this position the wheel will still turn as the 
steering lock has not engaged, but it will engage if the wheel is turned 
far enough.

3.  Turn the wheel so the steering clicks and locks.  This will often 
happen if the wheel is in an unfortunate position as I get in or out of 
the car.   In that position the wheel will have a little play on the 
steering lock if you turn it one way but be absolutely solid if you try 
to turn it the other.  In this state the key will not turn as it needs 
to release the steering lock which is under tension.

4.  The solution is simple: just ease a gentle pressure on the wheel to 
provide a little slack and the lock turns easily.

I hope it's that simple.  Good luck!

Phil





-- 
Phil Brady
Information Services
University of Wales, Bangor
Adeilad Deiniol
Deiniol Rd
Bangor LL57 2UX

Tel +44 (0)1248 382960
Fax +44 (0)1248 383826

P.R.Brady@bangor.ac.uk

In article , P.R.Brady says...


> Before you set light to the car with WD40, 


How exactly is he going to do that?

Pillock.
 

-- 
Conor

"You're not married, you haven't got a girlfriend and you've never seen 
Star Trek? Good Lord!" - Patrick Stewart, Extras.

"s--p--o--n--i--x"  wrote in message 
news:43181e35.7310484@news.individual.net...

> On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:50:39 +0100, Alan Gauton
>  wrote:
>
>>In article , hellraiser1
>>@nospam.blueyonder.co.uk says...
>>> Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the 
>>> same
>>> on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another 
>>> go
>>> :)
>>
>>Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same -
>>but in her case it's definetely the key.
>
> Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for
> sub frames and body panels!


Don't knock Fiat bodywork - my 7 year old Bravo is fully galvanised and has 
no rust at all, what's more impressive is my wife's 16 year old Tipo is 
currently sitting on the drive looking immaculate - it needed a small bit of 
floorpan in the boot replacing for MOT last year (stone chip to the 
underbody protection, causing water to get in and rust) but aside from that 
it's rock solid. Saw a Ford Ka the other day, 1999, bloody great load of 
rust near the filler cap and a manky sill end, so I think Fiat's have now 
lost their reputation of rustbuckets and passed the baton onto Ford :)

Must admit, having spent the day polishing and waxing the Tipo, I looked at 
the other cars nearby and they all looked shite by comparison - bright white 
is a great colour if looked after and clean :)

Hellraiser.............>

It comes in plastic 'puffer' bottles - you squeeze the bottle and a
puff of graphite comes out.

In article , pyruse
<URL:mailto:steve.and.mary.burt@gmail.com> wrote:


> It comes in plastic 'puffer' bottles - you squeeze the bottle and a
> puff of graphite comes out.


Without any context, your comment raises eyebrows.

-- 
AJL Electronics (G6FGO) Ltd         :  Satellite and TV aerial systems
http://www.classicmicrocars.co.uk   :  http://www.ajlelectronics.co.uk

        **   Would you like to learn to post effectively?      **
        **   http://www.allmyfaqs.com/faq.pl?How_to_post       **

John Smith wrote:

> Hi,
> 
> I have a 1998 1.6 petrol Fiat Brava (the Four door one - or is it a Bravo? 
> Never can remember which it is :-)) and a couple of times in recent months I 
> have had trouble turning the key in the ignition.
> 
> The key appears to be stuck or 'sticky' much in the same way you can get 
> trouble with turning a key in a Yale lock.
> 
> So, what can I do about this - is it as simple as getting some WD40 and 
> squirting a small amount into the ignition or is this a bigger problem? I 
> have been off work sick for several months and have hardly used my car so 
> could this be a reason?
> 
> It is a tad frightening when this happens - usually is the case - when I am 
> a long way from home :-)
> 
> Thanks for any advice or info,
> 


Before you set light to the car with WD40, it's not the steering lock is 
it?  Does the key release if you ease the steering wheel one way or the 
other?

I think all my cars have locked the ignition key occasionally and it is 
easily reproducable like this:

1.  Stop the car with the front wheels slightly turned.

2.  Remove the key.  In this position the wheel will still turn as the 
steering lock has not engaged, but it will engage if the wheel is turned 
far enough.

3.  Turn the wheel so the steering clicks and locks.  This will often 
happen if the wheel is in an unfortunate position as I get in or out of 
the car.   In that position the wheel will have a little play on the 
steering lock if you turn it one way but be absolutely solid if you try 
to turn it the other.  In this state the key will not turn as it needs 
to release the steering lock which is under tension.

4.  The solution is simple: just ease a gentle pressure on the wheel to 
provide a little slack and the lock turns easily.

I hope it's that simple.  Good luck!

Phil





-- 
Phil Brady
Information Services
University of Wales, Bangor
Adeilad Deiniol
Deiniol Rd
Bangor LL57 2UX

Tel +44 (0)1248 382960
Fax +44 (0)1248 383826

P.R.Brady@bangor.ac.uk

In article , P.R.Brady says...


> Before you set light to the car with WD40, 


How exactly is he going to do that?

Pillock.
 

-- 
Conor

"You're not married, you haven't got a girlfriend and you've never seen 
Star Trek? Good Lord!" - Patrick Stewart, Extras.

"s--p--o--n--i--x"  wrote in message 
news:43181e35.7310484@news.individual.net...

> On Fri, 2 Sep 2005 09:50:39 +0100, Alan Gauton
>  wrote:
>
>>In article , hellraiser1
>>@nospam.blueyonder.co.uk says...
>>> Be interested to hear the outcome of this as my 98 Bravo 1.8 does the 
>>> same
>>> on occasion - usual fix is to remove the key, reinsert and have another 
>>> go
>>> :)
>>
>>Must be a "feature" - my wife's key for our 2001 Brava 1.2 is the same -
>>but in her case it's definetely the key.
>
> Fiat obviously use the same 'quality' metal for keys as they do for
> sub frames and body panels!


Don't knock Fiat bodywork - my 7 year old Bravo is fully galvanised and has 
no rust at all, what's more impressive is my wife's 16 year old Tipo is 
currently sitting on the drive looking immaculate - it needed a small bit of 
floorpan in the boot replacing for MOT last year (stone chip to the 
underbody protection, causing water to get in and rust) but aside from that 
it's rock solid. Saw a Ford Ka the other day, 1999, bloody great load of 
rust near the filler cap and a manky sill end, so I think Fiat's have now 
lost their reputation of rustbuckets and passed the baton onto Ford :)

Must admit, having spent the day polishing and waxing the Tipo, I looked at 
the other cars nearby and they all looked shite by comparison - bright white 
is a great colour if looked after and clean :)

Hellraiser.............>

On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 09:45:38 +0100, Matt 
wrote:


>The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
>graphite. 


For pinned or wafer locks ("Yale" and car ignitions) then I'd agree.

For lever locks, the right light grease is entirely appropriate.

On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 21:45:02 GMT, "david lang"
 wrote:


>Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  


It's like Hammerite - great product in its own terms, but it's mis-sold
as a wonderful panacea for _all_ problems.  Lots of people think that
WD-40 is Plus-gas.  Then when it completely fails at something it was
never intended for, the product gets a poor name.

On Fri, 02 Sep 2005 09:45:38 +0100, Matt 
wrote:


>The only lubricant that should ever be used for locks is powdered
>graphite. 


For pinned or wafer locks ("Yale" and car ignitions) then I'd agree.

For lever locks, the right light grease is entirely appropriate.

On Thu, 01 Sep 2005 21:45:02 GMT, "david lang"
 wrote:


>Why have so many people on this NG got such a downer on WD40?  


It's like Hammerite - great product in its own terms, but it's mis-sold
as a wonderful panacea for _all_ problems.  Lots of people think that
WD-40 is Plus-gas.  Then when it completely fails at something it was
never intended for, the product gets a poor name.

"P.R.Brady"  wrote in message 
news:431887E3.6010107@bangor.ac.uk...

>
> Before you set light to the car with WD40, it's not the steering lock is 
> it?  Does the key release if you ease the steering wheel one way or the 
> other?
>
> I think all my cars have locked the ignition key occasionally and it is 
> easily reproducable like this:
>
> 1.  Stop the car with the front wheels slightly turned.
>
> 2.  Remove the key.  In this position the wheel will still turn as the 
> steering lock has not engaged, but it will engage if the wheel is turned 
> far enough.
>
> 3.  Turn the wheel so the steering clicks and locks.  This will often 
> happen if the wheel is in an unfortunate position as I get in or out of 
> the car.   In that position the wheel will have a little play on the 
> steering lock if you turn it one way but be absolutely solid if you try to 
> turn it the other.  In this state the key will not turn as it needs to 
> release the steering lock which is under tension.
>
> 4.  The solution is simple: just ease a gentle pressure on the wheel to 
> provide a little slack and the lock turns easily.
>
> I hope it's that simple.  Good luck!
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>




Thanks all, the graphite from a pencil idea seems to work. Also, it could 
well be steering lock related so thanks for the advice on that. Interested 
to see several other Brava owners with occasional similar problems.

John.

"P.R.Brady"  wrote in message 
news:431887E3.6010107@bangor.ac.uk...

>
> Before you set light to the car with WD40, it's not the steering lock is 
> it?  Does the key release if you ease the steering wheel one way or the 
> other?
>
> I think all my cars have locked the ignition key occasionally and it is 
> easily reproducable like this:
>
> 1.  Stop the car with the front wheels slightly turned.
>
> 2.  Remove the key.  In this position the wheel will still turn as the 
> steering lock has not engaged, but it will engage if the wheel is turned 
> far enough.
>
> 3.  Turn the wheel so the steering clicks and locks.  This will often 
> happen if the wheel is in an unfortunate position as I get in or out of 
> the car.   In that position the wheel will have a little play on the 
> steering lock if you turn it one way but be absolutely solid if you try to 
> turn it the other.  In this state the key will not turn as it needs to 
> release the steering lock which is under tension.
>
> 4.  The solution is simple: just ease a gentle pressure on the wheel to 
> provide a little slack and the lock turns easily.
>
> I hope it's that simple.  Good luck!
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>




Thanks all, the graphite from a pencil idea seems to work. Also, it could 
well be steering lock related so thanks for the advice on that. Interested 
to see several other Brava owners with occasional similar problems.

John.

The message <O9XSe.3673$7p1.3322@newsfe7-win.ntli.net>
from "John Smith"  contains
these words:


> Thanks all, the graphite from a pencil idea seems to work.


Be a little careful using pencil graphite in locks - hard pencils have
the graphite mixed with clay, which ain't good at all. Use as soft a
pencil as possile, or preferably proper locksmith's graphite.

-- 
Skipweasel.
In the beginning was the word.
And the word was Aardvark.

The message <O9XSe.3673$7p1.3322@newsfe7-win.ntli.net>
from "John Smith"  contains
these words:


> Thanks all, the graphite from a pencil idea seems to work.


Be a little careful using pencil graphite in locks - hard pencils have
the graphite mixed with clay, which ain't good at all. Use as soft a
pencil as possile, or preferably proper locksmith's graphite.

-- 
Skipweasel.
In the beginning was the word.
And the word was Aardvark.

On Mon, 5 Sep 2005 14:37:15 +0100, Guy King 
wrote:


>The message <O9XSe.3673$7p1.3322@newsfe7-win.ntli.net>
>from "John Smith"  contains
>these words:
>
>> Thanks all, the graphite from a pencil idea seems to work.
>
>Be a little careful using pencil graphite in locks - hard pencils have
>the graphite mixed with clay, which ain't good at all. Use as soft a
>pencil as possile, or preferably proper locksmith's graphite.


Better still, use PTFE spray lubricant.

-- 
Frank Erskine
Sunderland