I have to put a door casing in a wall (I have cut through the double brick 
wall already) for an internal door.  My local builders merchant recommends 
frame fixings for the casing.  He says just hammer them in, but I am unsure 
exactly what he means.  Can anyone please point me in the right direction on 
how to proceed, with this type of fixing.
Thanks
Neil

something like Hammerfix fixings as made by Fischer Fixings.
Click here
http://www.fischer.co.uk/english/befestigung/befestigung_frame.html

In article <df4l67$9qv$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>, neil@lockhead.fsnet.co.uk 
says...

> I have to put a door casing in a wall (I have cut through the double brick 
> wall already) for an internal door.  My local builders merchant recommends 
> frame fixings for the casing.  He says just hammer them in, but I am unsure 
> exactly what he means.  Can anyone please point me in the right direction on 
> how to proceed, with this type of fixing.


Drill hole through timber and brick, insert fixing, hit fixing - job 
done.

"Gel"  wrote in message 
news:1125506441.549623.83900@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...

> something like Hammerfix fixings as made by Fischer Fixings.
> Click here
> http://www.fischer.co.uk/english/befestigung/befestigung_frame.html




Thanks Gel.  I have looked at site. The ones I have are the same.

"Rob Morley"  wrote in message

> Drill hole through timber and brick, insert fixing, hit fixing - job
> done.


Thanks Rob, sounds easy enough.  The builders merchants said 2 top and 2 at 
bottom of casing each side. Does that sound enough?
Neil

In article <df4l67$9qv$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>,
   Neil  wrote:

> I have to put a door casing in a wall (I have cut through the double
> brick wall already) for an internal door.  My local builders merchant
> recommends frame fixings for the casing.  He says just hammer them in,
> but I am unsure exactly what he means.  Can anyone please point me in
> the right direction on how to proceed, with this type of fixing.


They're rather like a very long screw with the masonry plug attached. The
hole for the frame and the one in the wall are the same size. Drill the
holes in the frame first - making sure they're in the middle of bricks.
Then offer up the frame - making sure it's exactly right position wise -
and drill into the masonry. Then hammer in the fixing. Do the same with
the others, and finally tighten each one with a large screwdriver. It's a
quick and efficient fixing.

-- 
*It's lonely at the top, but you eat better.

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Neil wrote:


> Thanks Rob, sounds easy enough.  The builders merchants said 2 top and 2 at
> bottom of casing each side. Does that sound enough?


No.

Forget Fischer fixings. they are expensive. Get a packet of Rawlplugs
-brown ones and a 7.5 or 8 mm masonry drill bit.

Drill into the bricks through the frame. Fix the frame that is going to
house the hinges and make sure you get it plumb in two directions and
the head is level.

Put a couple of screws in the other leg, top and bottom (which is
probably what the man meant) and hang the door. Fix that last leg to
suit the door.

Remember to allow space each side of the wall for the finish. And don't
forget the door must close over carpets or whatever.

When puting the screws in it is best to avoid the regions that you are
going to be fixing the hinges and the lock to. Mark them out first.

If you are going to be using those furry intumescent strips for
fireproofing you want plenty of space all around. If you are just
fitting with no fire-proofing, allow 2 mm all around. That's about the
thickness of a twopenny bit.

Dave Plowman (News) wrote:

> In article <df4l67$9qv$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>,

> They're rather like a very long screw with the masonry plug attached. The
> hole for the frame and the one in the wall are the same size.


The only really good reason for using them is with breeze block. And in
unaccessible places where an hammer is a quick otion to a lot of sweat.

"Weatherlawyer"  wrote in message 
news:1125511093.230127.300190@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

>
> Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
>> In article <df4l67$9qv$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>,



I have already bought the hammer type so may as well use them.  Thanks to 
all for other advice.
Neil

You want to get hold of a variety of packing pieces of different
thickness before you start. Thin ply and formica are best. But you can
cut some long thin wedges ready. They are easiest to use and always
provide the exact thickness required.

Put them just above the screws. Some people drill right through them.
This stops them falling out but is the devil to try and adjust if you
have to mess around with the door later.

You should have left yourself some 1/4 to 1/2 inch space either side to
play with, so put the hinge side in as tight a possible so that parts
of the frame are touching the reveal and pack out where the uneve
surface of the brickwork leaves gaps. (Only necessary to pack where you
are puting the screws. (4 pairs.))

Then use thicker packers on the other leg.

You can have plenty of room below the lintle. (You DID put a lintle in
didn't you?)

"Weatherlawyer"  wrote in message

>
> You can have plenty of room below the lintle. (You DID put a lintle in
> didn't you?)


I put concrete lintels in.  I cut the hole with one inch spare so shouldn't 
need to much packing out . I will put the casing in tomorrow.
I have printed all info out so I can refer to it.
Thanks again
Neil

"Neil"  wrote in message
news:df500l$lh9$1@newsm1.svr.pol.co.uk...

>
> "Weatherlawyer"  wrote in message
> >
> > You can have plenty of room below the lintle. (You DID put a lintle in
> > didn't you?)
>
> I put concrete lintels in.  I cut the hole with one inch spare so
shouldn't
> need to much packing out . I will put the casing in tomorrow.
> I have printed all info out so I can refer to it.
> Thanks again
> Neil
>
>

================
You can use expanding foam to help with final fixing - it makes a very solid
job and gives a good feel to the door closing.

Cic.

> You can use expanding foam to help with final fixing - it makes a very 
> solid
> job and gives a good feel to the door closing.
>
> Cic.



Good idea I have some left from another job,

Thanks
Neil

In article ,
   Weatherlawyer  wrote:

> > They're rather like a very long screw with the masonry plug attached.
> > The hole for the frame and the one in the wall are the same size.

> The only really good reason for using them is with breeze block. And in
> unaccessible places where an hammer is a quick otion to a lot of sweat.


The fact they use the same size hole for both the frame and masonry is
useful. They're expensive but fast.

-- 
*The hardness of the butter is proportional to the softness of the bread *

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

Weatherlawyer wrote:

> Dave Plowman (News) wrote:
> > In article <df4l67$9qv$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk>,
>
> > They're rather like a very long screw with the masonry plug attached. The
> > hole for the frame and the one in the wall are the same size.
>
> The only really good reason for using them is with breeze block. And in
> unaccessible places where an hammer is a quick otion to a lot of sweat.


That statement needs to be qualified with "IMHO" ;-)

MBQ

> I have to put a door casing in a wall

Beware of B&Q door casings made out of banana trees. Some original door
casings in my house were held by about 4 nails with packers and were
dead straight. For new ones from B&Q, I had to use loads of screw
fixings since they were so curved and/or warped. And I had picked the
best ones in the store !
Simon.

Thanks to everyone for help given.  I have put the casing in this morning 
and it all went well.  The casing is dead plumb so  well pleased.  I put a 
batten at the bottom of casing making all sides 30  inches across before 
starting, and found it a good guide for fixing.  It stopped the casing 
moving about.  The only down side was I forgot it was there and tripped over 
it falling against a radiator, bad bruising to pride.  I guess clumsy would 
be a polite expression.
Cheers to all.
Neil