Been studying a few repair procedures for the S70. One thing I've noticed 
is that there are a number of Torx fixings, so I'll be getting a decent 
set of bits. I also noticed that the hub carriers have bolts that require 
a torx socket (i.e. Exx). Does anyone know if there are other fixings 
that require torx shape sockets or are these a one off. I don't want to 
buy a full set if it isn't necessary, as they seem rather more expensive 
than the male bits.

After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial 
damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my first 
major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all gasping now), 
there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.

1) I have the time. Don't need the car for commuting because I can walk 
to work in under 20 minutes. I do this anyway, except when the weather is 
exceptionally bad. SWMBO has her little car, so life without mine for a 
couple of weeks won't be at all hard.

2) I have access to the facilities. I work in the engineering department 
of a large industrial plant. On the site we have a large garage used for 
maintenance of forklifts. I intend to put the car in there for a week or 
two and do the work in my own time. No post lift, it will be a jack & 
support job, but level ground, plenty of space and a roof overhead. I can 
borrow all the general purpose tools I need (big sockets etc).

3) Help is at hand. I have a number of colleagues who can help out with 
two man operations (removing gearbox etc) and general items that I may 
get stuck on. I myself, IMHO, am quite practically minded. I've studied 
the procedure and know what I'm getting into,  or at least I feel that I 
understand it well enough to be able to take the job on. Admittedly, I'd 
never even done an oil change until five years ago, and the biggest part 
I've changed to date is a wishbone. But there's a first time for 
everything, as they say ;-)

As usual, any constructive advice is much appreciated. OK, you can shoot 
me down in flames, now ;-)



-- 
Stuart Sharp

fStu  wrote:


> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial 
> damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my first
> major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all gasping now),
> there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.


Why?

Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?

Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the
slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a spanner
monkey for replacement.

FWIW, I've only ever needed the clutch doing on one of my cars.
-- 
Steve H 'You're not a real petrolhead unless you've owned an Alfa Romeo'
http://www.italiancar.co.uk - Honda VFR800 - MZ ETZ300 - Alfa 75 TSpark
Alfa 156 2.0 TSpark Lusso - Passat 1.8 Turbo SE -  COSOC KOTL
BoTAFOT #87 - BoTAFOF #18 - MRO # - UKRMSBC #7 - Apostle #2 - YTC #

>> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial
>> damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my first
>> major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all gasping now),
>> there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.
>
> Why?
>
> Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?
>
> Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the
> slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a spanner
> monkey for replacement.


Erm, Steve, I think you need to re-read Stu's post.  I think he's quite 
looking forward to the challenge :-)

-- 
Peter

"You're not a real UKRCMer until you've had your big end bearings go."

AstraVanMan  wrote:


> >> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial
> >> damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my first
> >> major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all gasping now),
> >> there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.
> >
> > Why?
> >
> > Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?
> >
> > Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the
> > slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a spanner
> > monkey for replacement.
> 
> Erm, Steve, I think you need to re-read Stu's post.  I think he's quite
> looking forward to the challenge :-)


That's up to the point you drop the gearbox out, realise it weighs a
metric fuckload and that you haven't really got the car far enough off
the ground to work safely.
-- 
Steve H 'You're not a real petrolhead unless you've owned an Alfa Romeo'
http://www.italiancar.co.uk - Honda VFR800 - MZ ETZ300 - Alfa 75 TSpark
Alfa 156 2.0 TSpark Lusso - Passat 1.8 Turbo SE -  COSOC KOTL
BoTAFOT #87 - BoTAFOF #18 - MRO # - UKRMSBC #7 - Apostle #2 - YTC #

> ...realise it weighs a metric fuckload


LOL now there`s a unit of measurement I won`t forget !

-- 
Please add the word "newsgroup" in the subject line of personal emails
**** My email address includes "ngspamtrap" and "@btinternet.com" ****

steve@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in news:1h22i8f.acbqns1nc2u4gN%
steve@italiancar.co.uk:


> fStu  wrote:
> 
>> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial 
>> damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my first
>> major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all gasping now),
>> there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.
> 
> Why?
> 
> Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?
> 
> Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the
> slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a spanner
> monkey for replacement.
> 
> FWIW, I've only ever needed the clutch doing on one of my cars.


Main problem is the release bearing. It makes an embarassing groaning noise 
when pulling away. The action of the clutch could be smoother, too - it's a 
bit heavy and isn't very progressive (i.e. it's either in or out, no in-
between), making smooth gearchanges difficult. I reckon a new clutch would 
solve all these issues, but there's no immediate rush.

-- 
Stuart Sharp

steve@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in
news:1h22ivl.1nbu2271t7wxmfN%steve@italiancar.co.uk: 


> AstraVanMan  wrote:
> 
>> >> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial
>> >> damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my
>> >> first major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all
>> >> gasping now), there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.
>> >
>> > Why?
>> >
>> > Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?
>> >
>> > Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the
>> > slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a
>> > spanner monkey for replacement.
>> 
>> Erm, Steve, I think you need to re-read Stu's post.  I think he's
>> quite looking forward to the challenge :-)
> 


'Tis true, I do like a challenge :-)


> That's up to the point you drop the gearbox out, realise it weighs a
> metric fuckload and that you haven't really got the car far enough off
> the ground to work safely.


I've no intention of trying to lift it by myself! I thought that two lads 
would be able to handle it? Please tell me if I'm being vain. I realised 
about the height and intend to measure the ground clearance before 
starting to unbolt the box. Is it really not possible without a lift?

-- 
Stuart Sharp

Stu  wrote:


> > That's up to the point you drop the gearbox out, realise it weighs a
> > metric fuckload and that you haven't really got the car far enough off
> > the ground to work safely.
> 
> I've no intention of trying to lift it by myself! I thought that two lads
> would be able to handle it? Please tell me if I'm being vain. I realised
> about the height and intend to measure the ground clearance before 
> starting to unbolt the box. Is it really not possible without a lift?


It can be done, but I wouldn't. You really want to be able to unbolt
everything, support the 'box on a trolley jack and raise the car in a
lift.
-- 
Steve H 'You're not a real petrolhead unless you've owned an Alfa Romeo'
http://www.italiancar.co.uk - Honda VFR800 - MZ ETZ300 - Alfa 75 TSpark
Alfa 156 2.0 TSpark Lusso - Passat 1.8 Turbo SE -  COSOC KOTL
BoTAFOT #87 - BoTAFOF #18 - MRO # - UKRMSBC #7 - Apostle #2 - YTC #

> That's up to the point you drop the gearbox out, realise it weighs a
> metric fuckload and that you haven't really got the car far enough off
> the ground to work safely.


Bear in mind also it's a clutch and gearbox in a transverse 5 cyl car 
designed to handle 250 lb ft or more of torque... If he does decide to DIY 
it can we all watch?

Stu wrote:


> I've no intention of trying to lift it by myself! I thought that two lads 
> would be able to handle it? 


They most certainly can, in fact I can't think of a gearbox that I've 
been unable to lift on my own in the last 20odd years. However when
you're lying on your back or dangling, feet off the ground, in the
engine bay it's a different story.

Find out which way the gearbox comes out, up or down, before
deciding if you can do it on the drive.

John

Stu wrote:


> Main problem is the release bearing. It makes an embarassing groaning
> noise when pulling away. The action of the clutch could be smoother,
> too - it's a bit heavy and isn't very progressive (i.e. it's either
> in or out, no in- between), making smooth gearchanges difficult. I
> reckon a new clutch would solve all these issues, but there's no
> immediate rush.


They can be a bit grabby... probably quite normal. You sure the groaning 
isn't driveshaft or rollbar linkages?

-- 
re-configure the solar matrix in parallel for endothermic propulsion

steve@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in
news:1h22pxz.1txxa52c94x21N%steve@italiancar.co.uk: 


> Stu  wrote:
> 
>> > That's up to the point you drop the gearbox out, realise it weighs
>> > a metric fuckload and that you haven't really got the car far
>> > enough off the ground to work safely.
>> 
>> I've no intention of trying to lift it by myself! I thought that two
>> lads would be able to handle it? Please tell me if I'm being vain. I
>> realised about the height and intend to measure the ground clearance
>> before starting to unbolt the box. Is it really not possible without
>> a lift? 
> 
> It can be done, but I wouldn't. You really want to be able to unbolt
> everything, support the 'box on a trolley jack and raise the car in a
> lift.


What's the weight of a typical road car box, then? If it's gonna be too 
much, I could always make a bracket to sit it on a trolley jack without 
toppling off. Guys have posted on here before claiming to have lifted 
gearboxes back on single-handedly. That's why I thought that two people 
would manage OK.

-- 
Stuart Sharp

John Greystrong  wrote in
news:3nh7r1F1hv3bU1@individual.net: 


> Stu wrote:
> 
>> I've no intention of trying to lift it by myself! I thought that two
>> lads would be able to handle it? 
> 
> They most certainly can, in fact I can't think of a gearbox that I've 
> been unable to lift on my own in the last 20odd years. However when
> you're lying on your back or dangling, feet off the ground, in the
> engine bay it's a different story.
> 
> Find out which way the gearbox comes out, up or down, before
> deciding if you can do it on the drive.
> 
> John
> 

This would be from below, but space is rather tight. You can't remove it 
without lowering the engine and subframe by a few inches on the gearbox 
end! The above bit gives me an idea, though. I could get two of us 
underneath with a third person taking some weight from above via a length 
of rope passed around the underside of it.

It does all sound a bit dodgy, though. When the time comes, I think I'll 
make a bracket that gives a flat base, enabling the gearbox to be 
supported by a trolley jack. DIY is all well and good, but I don't want 
to risk injury to my friends or myself!


-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Tim S Kemp"  wrote in
news:OOedne7xX-DU9I7eRVn-pQ@karoo.co.uk: 


> 
> 
>> That's up to the point you drop the gearbox out, realise it weighs a
>> metric fuckload and that you haven't really got the car far enough
>> off the ground to work safely.
> 
> Bear in mind also it's a clutch and gearbox in a transverse 5 cyl car 
> designed to handle 250 lb ft or more of torque... If he does decide to
> DIY it can we all watch?
> 
> 
> 

You can come and give us a lift, if you want ;-)

While I've got your attention, how about my torx sockets query? Is it just 
the hub bolts that use a female socket or do I need a set of them?



-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96C1D4DC6D282nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

> steve@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in
> news:1h22ivl.1nbu2271t7wxmfN%steve@italiancar.co.uk:
>
> > AstraVanMan  wrote:
> >
> >> >> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial
> >> >> damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my
> >> >> first major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all
> >> >> gasping now), there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.
> >> >
> >> > Why?
> >> >
> >> > Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?
> >> >
> >> > Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the
> >> > slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a
> >> > spanner monkey for replacement.
> >>
> >> Erm, Steve, I think you need to re-read Stu's post.  I think he's
> >> quite looking forward to the challenge :-)
> >
>
> 'Tis true, I do like a challenge :-)
>
> > That's up to the point you drop the gearbox out, realise it weighs a
> > metric fuckload and that you haven't really got the car far enough off
> > the ground to work safely.
>
> I've no intention of trying to lift it by myself! I thought that two lads
> would be able to handle it? Please tell me if I'm being vain. I realised
> about the height and intend to measure the ground clearance before
> starting to unbolt the box. Is it really not possible without a lift?


For an 850 / 70 series clutch you need a 2 post lift and either an engine
steady bar (spans suspension turrets and supports engine from above) or an
engine jack (supports from below)

The front subframe with suspension / hubs / driveshafts / steeringh rack etc
etc etc has to be dropped at least 8 inches to make enough room for the
gearbox to slide away from the engine enough to access the clutch without
fouling on the chassis legs.

It is a basic nut and bolt job, but needs time, patience and the right
supports. There are too many hoses / wires and stuff with minimal slack to
rush.

Book time for a dealer is over 5 hrs, so you can double that at least on
your own for the first time.

I would very strongly recommend removing the flywheel (possibly giving it a
light skim as well) to replace the crank main seal which invariably go to
leak, and replacing the clutch slave cylinder whilst you are at it.

Tim..

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96C1D40636B55nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

> steve@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in news:1h22i8f.acbqns1nc2u4gN%
> steve@italiancar.co.uk:
>
> > fStu  wrote:
> >
> >> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial
> >> damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my first
> >> major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all gasping now),
> >> there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.
> >
> > Why?
> >
> > Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?
> >
> > Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the
> > slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a spanner
> > monkey for replacement.
> >
> > FWIW, I've only ever needed the clutch doing on one of my cars.
>
> Main problem is the release bearing. It makes an embarassing groaning
noise
> when pulling away. The action of the clutch could be smoother, too - it's
a
> bit heavy and isn't very progressive (i.e. it's either in or out, no in-
> between), making smooth gearchanges difficult. I reckon a new clutch would
> solve all these issues, but there's no immediate rush.


No, this will be the clutch plate graunching on the gearbox input shaft.
They are teflon coated, but most manual 850 / 70 series with afew miles on
them, groan when pulling away because of this. I have had some success with
some HMP grease and or molybdenum disulphate grease used sparinginly on the
input shaft but it doesnt last indefinately.

Tim..

"Tim S Kemp"  wrote in news:Dc6dnTfNn5sR9I7eRVn-
oQ@karoo.co.uk:


> Stu wrote:
> 
>> Main problem is the release bearing. It makes an embarassing groaning
>> noise when pulling away. The action of the clutch could be smoother,
>> too - it's a bit heavy and isn't very progressive (i.e. it's either
>> in or out, no in- between), making smooth gearchanges difficult. I
>> reckon a new clutch would solve all these issues, but there's no
>> immediate rush.
> 
> They can be a bit grabby... probably quite normal. You sure the groaning 
> isn't driveshaft or rollbar linkages?
> 

I know that the grabbiness (is that a word? ;-) can be a characteristic of 
high powered cars, but I've read quite a few posts on the VOC forums that 
say the clutch is much lighter and smoother after replacement.

I'm pretty sure about the noise as it only occurs on the bite point of the 
clutch and you can tell that the part making the noise is a rotating one, 
IYSWIM. Dump the clutch and the noise goes away quicker or doesn't happen 
at all. The release bearing rattles at idle but is silent when the clutch 
is out, so I think the groaning is happening at the point where the load on 
the bearing is being released. It does vibrate slightly at this point, but 
I've noticed that the top engine mount is split (only changed last year), 
so replacing that should sort it.


-- 
Stuart Sharp

Stu wrote:


> vibrate slightly at this point, but I've noticed that the top engine
> mount is split (only changed last year), so replacing that should
> sort it.


heh they do that... http://www.kalmar-union.com/ sell polyurethane ones...


-- 
re-configure the solar matrix in parallel for endothermic propulsion

"Tim.."  wrote in
news:devr0d$d1m$1@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com: 


> 
> "Stu"  wrote in message
> news:Xns96C1D4DC6D282nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>> steve@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in
>> news:1h22ivl.1nbu2271t7wxmfN%steve@italiancar.co.uk:
>>
>> > AstraVanMan  wrote:
>> >
>> >> >> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the
>> >> >> financial damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement.
>> >> >> Will be my first major job, but before I get shot down (I can
>> >> >> hear you all gasping now), there are a couple of things I'd
>> >> >> like to point out. 
>> >> >
>> >> > Why?
>> >> >
>> >> > Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?
>> >> >
>> >> > Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until
>> >> > the slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at
>> >> > a spanner monkey for replacement.
>> >>
>> >> Erm, Steve, I think you need to re-read Stu's post.  I think he's
>> >> quite looking forward to the challenge :-)
>> >
>>
>> 'Tis true, I do like a challenge :-)
>>
>> > That's up to the point you drop the gearbox out, realise it weighs
>> > a metric fuckload and that you haven't really got the car far
>> > enough off the ground to work safely.
>>
>> I've no intention of trying to lift it by myself! I thought that two
>> lads would be able to handle it? Please tell me if I'm being vain. I
>> realised about the height and intend to measure the ground clearance
>> before starting to unbolt the box. Is it really not possible without
>> a lift? 
> 
> For an 850 / 70 series clutch you need a 2 post lift and either an
> engine steady bar (spans suspension turrets and supports engine from
> above) or an engine jack (supports from below)


I know about the steady bar, I can get one made from box section, with 
some legs welded on, or hire one from VOC. Is there so much ground 
clearance required that you have to use a lift?

> 
> The front subframe with suspension / hubs / driveshafts / steeringh
> rack etc etc etc has to be dropped at least 8 inches to make enough
> room for the gearbox to slide away from the engine enough to access
> the clutch without fouling on the chassis legs.
> 
> It is a basic nut and bolt job, but needs time, patience and the right
> supports. There are too many hoses / wires and stuff with minimal
> slack to rush.


I don't rush jobs that I haven't done before. Everything is done slowly 
and methodically.

> 
> Book time for a dealer is over 5 hrs, so you can double that at least
> on your own for the first time.


No problem :-)


> 
> I would very strongly recommend removing the flywheel (possibly giving
> it a light skim as well) to replace the crank main seal which
> invariably go to leak, and replacing the clutch slave cylinder whilst
> you are at it. 
> 
> Tim..
> 
> 

I intend to do the seal. My colleague, who has changed clutches by 
himself before, is less confident of doing the seal successfully than the 
clutch! Says they can be tricky to get seated properly. Slave cylinder on 
mine, being an early model, is an external type with a conventional 
release fork in the bellhousing, so no worries there.



-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Tim.."  wrote in
news:devr4m$dbf$1@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com: 


> 
> "Stu"  wrote in message
> news:Xns96C1D40636B55nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>> steve@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in news:1h22i8f.acbqns1nc2u4gN%
>> steve@italiancar.co.uk:
>>
>> > fStu  wrote:
>> >
>> >> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial
>> >> damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my
>> >> first major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all
>> >> gasping now), there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.
>> >
>> > Why?
>> >
>> > Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?
>> >
>> > Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the
>> > slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a
>> > spanner monkey for replacement.
>> >
>> > FWIW, I've only ever needed the clutch doing on one of my cars.
>>
>> Main problem is the release bearing. It makes an embarassing groaning
> noise
>> when pulling away. The action of the clutch could be smoother, too -
>> it's 
> a
>> bit heavy and isn't very progressive (i.e. it's either in or out, no
>> in- between), making smooth gearchanges difficult. I reckon a new
>> clutch would solve all these issues, but there's no immediate rush.
> 
> No, this will be the clutch plate graunching on the gearbox input
> shaft. They are teflon coated, but most manual 850 / 70 series with
> afew miles on them, groan when pulling away because of this. I have
> had some success with some HMP grease and or molybdenum disulphate
> grease used sparinginly on the input shaft but it doesnt last
> indefinately. 
> 
> Tim..
> 
> 

Ah, right - haven't heard that one yet. As minor as the groaning may be, 
the release bearing is definitely past it's best. I've stopped worrying 
that it'll pack up at any time and intend to do the job when I'm ready. 
This is just a bit of advance planning. It may be well into next year 
before I actually get round to doing it :-) I take it that you've done 
the job before,then, having used the high temp. grease?



-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Tim S Kemp"  wrote in
news:SbCdnctOc8Ci6I7eRVn-3w@karoo.co.uk: 


> Stu wrote:
> 
>> vibrate slightly at this point, but I've noticed that the top engine
>> mount is split (only changed last year), so replacing that should
>> sort it.
> 
> heh they do that... http://www.kalmar-union.com/ sell polyurethane
> ones... 
> 
> 

So do eurocarparts. I nearly got one the other day, then I read that they 
allow more vibrations through to the cabin. One guy is selling his for that 
reason. Hence I decided to get a normal rubber one and keep replacing it. 
Being a pretty smooth (but not slow) driver, I reckon I can get a bit 
longer out of it this time ;-)


-- 
Stuart Sharp

Stu  wrote in news:Xns96C1E169F46A5nobodyhomecom@
216.196.109.144:


> "Tim.."  wrote in
> news:devr4m$dbf$1@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com: 
> 
>> 
>> "Stu"  wrote in message
>> news:Xns96C1D40636B55nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>>> steve@italiancar.co.uk (SteveH) wrote in news:1h22i8f.acbqns1nc2u4gN%
>>> steve@italiancar.co.uk:
>>>
>>> > fStu  wrote:
>>> >
>>> >> After my holidays, or early next year (depending on the financial
>>> >> damage), I intend to undertake a clutch replacement. Will be my
>>> >> first major job, but before I get shot down (I can hear you all
>>> >> gasping now), there are a couple of things I'd like to point out.
>>> >
>>> > Why?
>>> >
>>> > Is it slipping or showing any other signs of failure?
>>> >
>>> > Best thing to do with a clutch is to keep using the car until the
>>> > slipping starts to affect everyday driving, then chuck it at a
>>> > spanner monkey for replacement.
>>> >
>>> > FWIW, I've only ever needed the clutch doing on one of my cars.
>>>
>>> Main problem is the release bearing. It makes an embarassing groaning
>> noise
>>> when pulling away. The action of the clutch could be smoother, too -
>>> it's 
>> a
>>> bit heavy and isn't very progressive (i.e. it's either in or out, no
>>> in- between), making smooth gearchanges difficult. I reckon a new
>>> clutch would solve all these issues, but there's no immediate rush.
>> 
>> No, this will be the clutch plate graunching on the gearbox input
>> shaft. They are teflon coated, but most manual 850 / 70 series with
>> afew miles on them, groan when pulling away because of this. I have
>> had some success with some HMP grease and or molybdenum disulphate
>> grease used sparinginly on the input shaft but it doesnt last
>> indefinately. 
>> 
>> Tim..
>> 
>> 
> Ah, right - haven't heard that one yet. As minor as the groaning may 
be, 
> the release bearing is definitely past it's best. I've stopped worrying 
> that it'll pack up at any time and intend to do the job when I'm ready. 
> This is just a bit of advance planning. It may be well into next year 
> before I actually get round to doing it :-) I take it that you've done 
> the job before,then, having used the high temp. grease?
> 
> 
> 

BTW, the Haynes book of lies says NOT to lubricate the input shaft 
because of the coating, but the VADIS manual from Volvo says that it 
should be sprayed with a certain Volvo lubricant. Anybody know what the 
spray lubricant is?


-- 
Stuart Sharp

On Mon, 29 Aug 2005 18:19:36 +0100, SteveH wrote:


>realise it weighs a metric fuckload 


<applause>
I've had things that weighed just as much as that. Usually drop off after
the two farts and a grunt tight bolt was unscrewed.
</applause>