I've never fitted a kitchen before and feel a little nervous about the 
prospect. Can anyone recommend any reading that will advise me of pitfalls 
etc.

Cheers,

Bob

It's not that hard if you DO-NOT buy the flat-pack stuff.

"JimP"  wrote in message
news:1125010294.186006.68760@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

> It's not that hard if you DO-NOT buy the flat-pack stuff.
>


Ive never fitted a kitchen but could do in the future.
just wondering, why not buy flat pack stuff?

"Karl"  wrote in message 
news:deljp7$7sv$1@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...

>
> "JimP"  wrote in message
> news:1125010294.186006.68760@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>> It's not that hard if you DO-NOT buy the flat-pack stuff.
>>
>
> Ive never fitted a kitchen but could do in the future.
> just wondering, why not buy flat pack stuff?
>
>


It just takes longer, but flat packs can be easier if you need to reduce the 
depth of some units as you can easily cut the boards before assembly - 
taking 6" off of an assembled unit is more difficult.  The other advantage 
of flat packed is that it doesn't take so much storage space, a full set of 
built base units, wall cupboards, etc. takes a lot of house room (unless you 
have a garage) and remember, if you are working on your own, that it is 
quite difficult to move assembled units around the house.  Havig said that 
do get assistance with lifting worktops they are very heavy.  Good luck - 
it's not difficult.

Peter

"Peter Andrews"  wrote in message 
news:TaBPe.35817$Il.11209@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...

>
> "Karl"  wrote in message 
> news:deljp7$7sv$1@nwrdmz03.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...
>>
>> "JimP"  wrote in message
>> news:1125010294.186006.68760@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>>> It's not that hard if you DO-NOT buy the flat-pack stuff.
>>>
>>
>> Ive never fitted a kitchen but could do in the future.
>> just wondering, why not buy flat pack stuff?
>>
>>
>
> It just takes longer, but flat packs can be easier if you need to reduce 
> the depth of some units as you can easily cut the boards before assembly - 
> taking 6" off of an assembled unit is more difficult.  The other advantage 
> of flat packed is that it doesn't take so much storage space, a full set 
> of built base units, wall cupboards, etc. takes a lot of house room 
> (unless you have a garage) and remember, if you are working on your own, 
> that it is quite difficult to move assembled units around the house. 
> Havig said that do get assistance with lifting worktops they are very 
> heavy.  Good luck - it's not difficult.
>
> Peter

I wonder if I could ask a few questions at this point.
1/ I assume I start from the corner of the room and work out. Is this 
correct.
2/Are worktops supplied cut to length with a mitred end for right-angled 
joints?
3/ Do worktops come with the hole cut for the sink and hob according to my 
specifications?
4/ Does the worktop need to be laid with a slight fall to drain the sink or 
is this built into the design of the sink with the work top level?
5/How is levelling done? Is it with screw in feet?

Thanks again fella's

See below



> 1/ I assume I start from the corner of the room and work out. Is this
> correct.


Measure the room and plan where you want everything. The corner may not be
the best place to start. Check the walls to make sure they are straight. If
they are not, then you will have to compensate. The corner may not be 90
degrees.


> 2/Are worktops supplied cut to length with a mitred end for right-angled
> joints?


Depends on where you get the worktop and what you ask for.


> 3/ Do worktops come with the hole cut for the sink and hob according to my
> specifications?


Same as above. If the hole is cut, make sure your measuring is correct.


> 4/ Does the worktop need to be laid with a slight fall to drain the sink
or
> is this built into the design of the sink with the work top level?


The worktop should be flat. The sink has the drop built in. If you don't
have level worktops, the corners won't work.


> 5/How is levelling done? Is it with screw in feet?


Depens on what you've baught. The lower end of the market don't have
adjustable feet, so you need to use wedges to level. the better the units
the easier to level. Better units have screw adjustable feet.

jh

In news:1125010294.186006.68760@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com,
JimP  typed:

> It's not that hard if you DO-NOT buy the flat-pack stuff.


Can I hijack a bit of this thread please ?

Firstly, I'm also contemplating fitting a kitchen and would like to plan it 
using some good kitchen design software. What I have in mind is something 
that allows me to drag/drop standard and custom units into a 2D plan...then 
give me a 3D view and other info, such as a parts list, based on the plan. 
Free would be nice, but I wouldn't mind paying for a good package.

Secondly...I'm after a stainless sink. At a minimum it must be a drop over 
(sit-on?) type with double drainer/double bowl and some sort of built-in 
splashback. Oh...the sticking point...it needs to be 600mm depth.

I've looked at loads of sinks but they all fall short of the minimum spec 
above. Can anybody help please ?

TIA

Jo

"Jo"  wrote in message 
news:demt5m$mrf$1@nwrdmz02.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com...

> In news:1125010294.186006.68760@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com,
> JimP  typed:

> Secondly...I'm after a stainless sink. At a minimum it must be a drop over 
> (sit-on?) type with double drainer/double bowl and some sort of built-in 
> splashback. Oh...the sticking point...it needs to be 600mm depth.


For this kind of specs you need to look at catering equipment suppliers.


-- 
Funkhunter

------------------------------------------------------------------
"I don't mind a reasonable amount of trouble."
Sam Spade, The Maltese Falcon
------------------------------------------------------------------

"Bob Watkinson"  wrote in message 
news:del4g2$fq7$1@news8.svr.pol.co.uk...

> I've never fitted a kitchen before and feel a little nervous about the 
> prospect. Can anyone recommend any reading that will advise me of pitfalls 
> etc.
>
> Cheers,
>

start with a datum
this is a level line right around the room where you want the worktop to sit 
(height wise)
without this line drawn around the room, everything will be much more 
difficult
I would'nt start in a corner
Have you sorted the plumbing and ring main ?
is the floor level, if not make sure you're using units with screw feet 
heighjt adjustment.
Screw each cabinet to its neighbour and to the wall
Take your time, its very satisying when you get the job done
good luck !
-- 
Vass

Guys

1)        Kitchen design software is no more than an electronic drawing
package. You can not do anything with a CAD package that you can not do with
pen and paper
            Don't waste money on a CAD package if you do not know how to use
it

2)    In most Kitchen ranges 500 and 1000 units are cheaper than their
smaller components, design your kitchen with as many 500 and 1000 units as
possible to keep the cost down

3)    Leave about 100mm gap between the end of your units to the end wall.
This will then allow standard corner units to be used, and allows for any
irregularity within the square of your room

4)    Where worktops are to be joined, get a professional to create a jigged
masons mitre. These will cost you about 50 a joint, but are millions times
better than a cheap plastic or steel joint bar

5)    avoid glossy work tops, look pretty but scratch very easily,
especially when creating a joint with router or jig saw

Hope these pointers help

David

"D. A. Hicks"  wrote in message 
news:df0t2s$i87$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...

> Guys
>
> 1)        Kitchen design software is no more than an electronic drawing
> package. You can not do anything with a CAD package that you can not do 
> with
> pen and paper
>            Don't waste money on a CAD package if you do not know how to 
> use
> it
>
> 2)    In most Kitchen ranges 500 and 1000 units are cheaper than their
> smaller components, design your kitchen with as many 500 and 1000 units as
> possible to keep the cost down
>
> 3)    Leave about 100mm gap between the end of your units to the end wall.
> This will then allow standard corner units to be used, and allows for any
> irregularity within the square of your room
>
> 4)    Where worktops are to be joined, get a professional to create a 
> jigged
> masons mitre. These will cost you about 50 a joint, but are millions 
> times
> better than a cheap plastic or steel joint bar
>
> 5)    avoid glossy work tops, look pretty but scratch very easily,
> especially when creating a joint with router or jig saw
>
> Hope these pointers help
>
> David
>
>

Thanks for that. What trade should I look up in the Yellow Pages to cut the 
work tops? Kitchen Fitters I guess.

"Bob Watkinson"  wrote in message 
news:df2cfs$6i6$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...

>
> "D. A. Hicks"  wrote in message 
> news:df0t2s$i87$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>> Guys
>>
>> 1)        Kitchen design software is no more than an electronic drawing
>> package. You can not do anything with a CAD package that you can not do 
>> with
>> pen and paper
>>            Don't waste money on a CAD package if you do not know how to 
>> use
>> it
>>
>> 2)    In most Kitchen ranges 500 and 1000 units are cheaper than their
>> smaller components, design your kitchen with as many 500 and 1000 units 
>> as
>> possible to keep the cost down
>>
>> 3)    Leave about 100mm gap between the end of your units to the end 
>> wall.
>> This will then allow standard corner units to be used, and allows for any
>> irregularity within the square of your room
>>
>> 4)    Where worktops are to be joined, get a professional to create a 
>> jigged
>> masons mitre. These will cost you about 50 a joint, but are millions 
>> times
>> better than a cheap plastic or steel joint bar
>>
>> 5)    avoid glossy work tops, look pretty but scratch very easily,
>> especially when creating a joint with router or jig saw
>>
>> Hope these pointers help
>>
>> David
>>
>>
> Thanks for that. What trade should I look up in the Yellow Pages to cut 
> the work tops? Kitchen Fitters I guess.


Joinery?

Adam

A true kitchen fitter will have a purpose made jig and router for this very
purpose. Most joiners do not

"Jo"  wrote in message

B&Q do an online design program now utilising their units
its just to give an impression mind
beware MFI, B&Q etc all add extra panels that really are not needed
i.e. each side where a washing machine is to be installed, why add panel 
that wont be seen ???
-- 
Vass

Vass wrote:

> "Jo"  wrote in message
> 
> B&Q do an online design program now utilising their units
> its just to give an impression mind
> beware MFI, B&Q etc all add extra panels that really are not needed
> i.e. each side where a washing machine is to be installed, why add panel 
> that wont be seen ???


Ikea have an online ktchen designer as well

-- 
®ÖÐ
Remove spamtrap to reply.

"D. A. Hicks"  wrote in message 
news:df3ab8$n97$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...

>A true kitchen fitter will have a purpose made jig and router for this very
> purpose. Most joiners do not
>
>


Yes this is what I've heard too

In news:gJmdnaWRC9aMBIjeRVnygg@eclipse.net.uk,
Vass  typed:

> "Jo"  wrote in message
>
> B&Q do an online design program now utilising their units
> its just to give an impression mind
> beware MFI, B&Q etc all add extra panels that really are not needed
> i.e. each side where a washing machine is to be installed, why add
> panel that wont be seen ???


Thanks Vass

Jo

"Bob Watkinson"  wrote in message 
news:df503u$2av$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...

>
> "D. A. Hicks"  wrote in message 
> news:df3ab8$n97$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
>>A true kitchen fitter will have a purpose made jig and router for this 
>>very
>> purpose. Most joiners do not
>>
>>
>
> Yes this is what I've heard too


Any decent joiner will have the jig and router. Ring around for a quote from 
both.

Adam

If you are near me email me
have van will travel
I do worktops for a living

-- 
regards
dave batter
www.kitchenman.co.uk
www.sxmitres.info
www.essex-sandivers.info
Skype me on kitchenmanuk
http://oneandone.co.uk/xml/init?k_id5568652

"Bob Watkinson"  wrote in message
news:df503u$2av$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...

>
> "D. A. Hicks"  wrote in message
> news:df3ab8$n97$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
> >A true kitchen fitter will have a purpose made jig and router for this
very
> > purpose. Most joiners do not
> >
> >
>
> Yes this is what I've heard too
>
>

"kitchenman"  wrote in message 
news:5OrRe.65538$Il.7422@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...

> If you are near me email me
> have van will travel
> I do worktops for a living
>
> -- 
> regards
> dave batter
> www.kitchenman.co.uk
> www.sxmitres.info
> www.essex-sandivers.info
> Skype me on kitchenmanuk
> http://oneandone.co.uk/xml/init?k_id5568652
>
> "Bob Watkinson"  wrote in message
> news:df503u$2av$1@newsg1.svr.pol.co.uk...
>>
>> "D. A. Hicks"  wrote in message
>> news:df3ab8$n97$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...
>> >A true kitchen fitter will have a purpose made jig and router for this
> very
>> > purpose. Most joiners do not
>> >
>> >
>>
>> Yes this is what I've heard too
>>
>>

I think you're in Essex. I'm in Perthshire or I would.

> 

Telephone an independent kitchen fitter / company they will normally do this
kind of thing for you, mind you it's not cheap. expect to pay about 40 to
50 a joint

This is not such a rip off as it sounds, the router bit costs about 45 and
you only get 4 or 5 cuts from it, then the cost of the bolts, jig, travel,
labour etc.

You will find the big sheds are usually not interested.  ( not enough
commission for the salesman , I suspect )

Not many joiners get enough worktops to justify the cost of the jig and
tools, unless they are fitting kitchens regularly.

Hope this helps

David