How do I go about maintaining it? I have an Autodata CD, which details 
all the basic maintenance schedule. But what about:

1)Oil grade. Autodata says 10w40 for a moderate climate. Does everyone 
agree? (Hoping to hear from JB on this - your E34s have gone further than 
the USS enterprise, mate :-) 5.75 litres, eh? Guess I'll have to get 2 
cans at the first OC.

2) Service intervals for the 2.5 24v E34 are:

OC every 10k
Inspection 1 every 20k
Inspection 2 every 40k

Correct?

3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very 
interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.

4)Can't see any change of the ATF scheduled? Can it be changed and if it 
can, do you think it's a good idea? Dexron II ATF and EP90 for the diff, 
yes? The autobox is one particular item where I want to do everything in 
my  power to ensure it remains trouble free. A failure here may be 
uneconomic to repair.

5)Anything unusual about servicing this car? Anything that requires 
particularly high levels of TLC?

Thanks,


-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96A5D8F08E76Bnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

>
> How do I go about maintaining it? I have an Autodata CD, which details
> all the basic maintenance schedule. But what about:
>
> 1)Oil grade. Autodata says 10w40 for a moderate climate. Does everyone
> agree? (Hoping to hear from JB on this - your E34s have gone further than
> the USS enterprise, mate :-) 5.75 litres, eh? Guess I'll have to get 2
> cans at the first OC.


10-40 fully synthetic.


> 2) Service intervals for the 2.5 24v E34 are:
>
> OC every 10k
> Inspection 1 every 20k
> Inspection 2 every 40k
>
> Correct?


Nope. The service lights tell you. The actual mileage between services is
governed by the way it is driven. The ECU monitors engine loads, stops
starts etc.
I,e one with high m/way miles will do more miles between services, than one
used for short trips.


>
> 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?


Can be done quite simply by shorting pins 7 and 19 with the ignition
switched on.


> If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very
> interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.


About the cheapest code reader I know of is the Peake Research one, that
Dave and I have mentioned. S/h ones seem pretty rare.

>
> 4)Can't see any change of the ATF scheduled? Can it be changed and if it
> can, do you think it's a good idea? Dexron II ATF and EP90 for the diff,
> yes? The autobox is one particular item where I want to do everything in
> my  power to ensure it remains trouble free. A failure here may be
> uneconomic to repair.


That's because BMW don't recommend changing the auto oil. Supposed to be
filled for life. However the consensus by many owners is that changing it on
high mileage cars is definitely worthwhile.

>
> 5)Anything unusual about servicing this car? Anything that requires
> particularly high levels of TLC?


Not that I know of. Most of the servicing is no different to any other car.
Mike.

In article ,
   Stu  wrote:

> 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
> If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very 
> interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.


You can do it with a piece of wire, or make up a lead which you clip to a
body earth which is my preferred way if you don't have a pukka tool. I'm
not keen on using the paperclip method so often described as I don't know
what might happen if you shorted something you shouldn't. I've got a code
reader which re-sets mine, but made up this lead for my brother, who
reports it works fine.

I thought I had the URL for a website that describes this lead and the
resetting proceedures in great detail, but can't find it. However, a
search on 'BMW service indicator reset' should find it. 

From memory, I used a large crock clip for the earth with a 5000 ohm
resistor in series with the lead from it, and found a 3.5mm mono jack plug
a snug fit to the socket on the multi-pin connector. But that was an E28,
and I think the socket on the E34 is different.

-- 
*Work is for people who don't know how to fish.

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96A5D8F08E76Bnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

> 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
> If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very
> interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.


Just remembered. I have one of these to reset the service lights.
http://tinyurl.com/8424g
New. Never been used.
I baught it as I intended to do my own servicing.
Now I've got a Peake code reader I don't need it.
Neither do you really, but it does make it easier. :-)
Yours for 13 inc postage.
My address is valid. Email me if you're interested.
Mike.

"Mike G"  wrote in
news:42ee9ffb$0$92395$892e7fe2@authen.white.readfreenews.net: 


> 
> "Stu"  wrote in message
> news:Xns96A5D8F08E76Bnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>>
>> How do I go about maintaining it? I have an Autodata CD, which
>> details all the basic maintenance schedule. But what about:
>>
>> 1)Oil grade. Autodata says 10w40 for a moderate climate. Does
>> everyone agree? (Hoping to hear from JB on this - your E34s have gone
>> further than the USS enterprise, mate :-) 5.75 litres, eh? Guess I'll
>> have to get 2 cans at the first OC.
> 
> 10-40 fully synthetic.


Never seen a 10w40 FS. Can get 5w40 or 0w40 (theoretically superior, 'cos 
the warm viscosity is the same but they don't thicken as much when cold). 
Will one of those do?

> 
>> 2) Service intervals for the 2.5 24v E34 are:
>>
>> OC every 10k
>> Inspection 1 every 20k
>> Inspection 2 every 40k
>>
>> Correct?
> 
> Nope. The service lights tell you. The actual mileage between services
> is governed by the way it is driven. The ECU monitors engine loads,
> stops starts etc.
> I,e one with high m/way miles will do more miles between services,
> than one used for short trips.


So, despite the fact that I'll be doing some short trips, it won't just 
count to 10k, it will compensate and ask for a service earlier than this? 
Clever bugger! I thought that it was just the latest ones that did this!

> 
>>
>> 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
> 
> Can be done quite simply by shorting pins 7 and 19 with the ignition
> switched on.
> 

Ta for that.


>> If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very
>> interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.
> 
> About the cheapest code reader I know of is the Peake Research one,
> that Dave and I have mentioned. S/h ones seem pretty rare.


Got it. Will do a bit of eBay/general net trawling.

>>
>> 4)Can't see any change of the ATF scheduled? Can it be changed and if
>> it can, do you think it's a good idea? Dexron II ATF and EP90 for the
>> diff, yes? The autobox is one particular item where I want to do
>> everything in my  power to ensure it remains trouble free. A failure
>> here may be uneconomic to repair.
> 
> That's because BMW don't recommend changing the auto oil. Supposed to
> be filled for life. However the consensus by many owners is that
> changing it on high mileage cars is definitely worthwhile.


Surely it can't hurt? Is it easy to drain and refill or is it 'sealed for 
life' ? Anyone know the capcity? How about the diff?

>>
>> 5)Anything unusual about servicing this car? Anything that requires
>> particularly high levels of TLC?
> 
> Not that I know of. Most of the servicing is no different to any other
> car. Mike.
> 

Thanks, Mike



-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Mike G"  wrote in news:42ef3cb5$0$3429$892e7fe2
@authen.white.readfreenews.net:


> 
> "Stu"  wrote in message
> news:Xns96A5D8F08E76Bnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>> 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
>> If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very
>> interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.
> 
> Just remembered. I have one of these to reset the service lights.
> http://tinyurl.com/8424g
> New. Never been used.
> I baught it as I intended to do my own servicing.
> Now I've got a Peake code reader I don't need it.
> Neither do you really, but it does make it easier. :-)
> Yours for 13 inc postage.
> My address is valid. Email me if you're interested.
> Mike.
> 
> 

Thanks for the offer, Mike. I think I'll use the DIY method that Dave 
describes. It sounds pretty safe for the ECU. I'd rather manage with this 
method and hang on to my money until I find a code reader at the right 
price.



-- 
Stuart Sharp

Stu  wrote in
news:Xns96A6A703EEFECnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144: 


> "Mike G"  wrote in news:42ef3cb5$0$3429$892e7fe2
> @authen.white.readfreenews.net:
> 
>> 
>> "Stu"  wrote in message
>> news:Xns96A5D8F08E76Bnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>>> 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
>>> If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very
>>> interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.
>> 
>> Just remembered. I have one of these to reset the service lights.
>> http://tinyurl.com/8424g
>> New. Never been used.
>> I baught it as I intended to do my own servicing.
>> Now I've got a Peake code reader I don't need it.
>> Neither do you really, but it does make it easier. :-)
>> Yours for 13 inc postage.
>> My address is valid. Email me if you're interested.
>> Mike.
>> 
>> 
> Thanks for the offer, Mike. I think I'll use the DIY method that Dave 
> describes. It sounds pretty safe for the ECU. I'd rather manage with
> this method and hang on to my money until I find a code reader at the
> right price.
> 
> 

Following on, the Primera had a setup where one could get into diagnostic 
mode by shorting two pins. The fault codes would then by shown by a 
series of flashes of the MIL. Is is possible to do this with a 5 series, 
or is a code reader essential, here?


-- 
Stuart Sharp
.
222 43431  article retrieved - body follows
Stu  wrote in
news:Xns96A6A703EEFECnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144: 


> "Mike G"  wrote in news:42ef3cb5$0$3429$892e7fe2
> @authen.white.readfreenews.net:
> 
>> 
>> "Stu"  wrote in message
>> news:Xns96A5D8F08E76Bnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>>> 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
>>> If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very
>>> interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.
>> 
>> Just remembered. I have one of these to reset the service lights.
>> http://tinyurl.com/8424g
>> New. Never been used.
>> I baught it as I intended to do my own servicing.
>> Now I've got a Peake code reader I don't need it.
>> Neither do you really, but it does make it easier. :-)
>> Yours for 13 inc postage.
>> My address is valid. Email me if you're interested.
>> Mike.
>> 
>> 
> Thanks for the offer, Mike. I think I'll use the DIY method that Dave 
> describes. It sounds pretty safe for the ECU. I'd rather manage with
> this method and hang on to my money until I find a code reader at the
> right price.
> 
> 

Following on, the Primera had a setup where one could get into diagnostic 
mode by shorting two pins. The fault codes would then by shown by a 
series of flashes of the MIL. Is is possible to do this with a 5 series, 
or is a code reader essential, here?


-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
news:4d94098625dave@davenoise.co.uk...

> In article ,
>    Stu  wrote:
> > 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
> > If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very
> > interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.
>
> You can do it with a piece of wire, or make up a lead which you clip to a
> body earth which is my preferred way if you don't have a pukka tool. I'm
> not keen on using the paperclip method so often described as I don't know
> what might happen if you shorted something you shouldn't. I've got a code
> reader which re-sets mine, but made up this lead for my brother, who
> reports it works fine.


I notice the little cheapy one I've got, appears to allows the oil and
inspection service indicators to be reset individually. Presumably if the
oil service LED's are reset on their own, the inspection setting carries on
with it's own countdown regardless..
Do the DIY ones like yours have the same facilty?
Just interested because most DIY methods just mention resetting the service
indicator period.
Mike.

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96A6A9206305Cnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

> Stu  wrote in
> news:Xns96A6A703EEFECnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144:
>
> > "Mike G"  wrote in news:42ef3cb5$0$3429$892e7fe2
> > @authen.white.readfreenews.net:
> >
> >>
> >> "Stu"  wrote in message
> >> news:Xns96A5D8F08E76Bnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
> >>> 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
> >>> If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very
> >>> interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.
> >>
> >> Just remembered. I have one of these to reset the service lights.
> >> http://tinyurl.com/8424g
> >> New. Never been used.
> >> I baught it as I intended to do my own servicing.
> >> Now I've got a Peake code reader I don't need it.
> >> Neither do you really, but it does make it easier. :-)
> >> Yours for 13 inc postage.
> >> My address is valid. Email me if you're interested.
> >> Mike.
> >>
> >>
> > Thanks for the offer, Mike. I think I'll use the DIY method that Dave
> > describes. It sounds pretty safe for the ECU. I'd rather manage with
> > this method and hang on to my money until I find a code reader at the
> > right price.


OK. I'll stick it on eBay. It's no good to me.

> >
> >
> Following on, the Primera had a setup where one could get into diagnostic
> mode by shorting two pins. The fault codes would then by shown by a
> series of flashes of the MIL. Is is possible to do this with a 5 series,
> or is a code reader essential, here?


A code reader is essential.
Mike.

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96A6A5A99F33Anobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

> >> 4)Can't see any change of the ATF scheduled? Can it be changed and if
> >> it can, do you think it's a good idea? Dexron II ATF and EP90 for the
> >> diff, yes? The autobox is one particular item where I want to do
> >> everything in my  power to ensure it remains trouble free. A failure
> >> here may be uneconomic to repair.
> >
> > That's because BMW don't recommend changing the auto oil. Supposed to
> > be filled for life. However the consensus by many owners is that
> > changing it on high mileage cars is definitely worthwhile.
>
> Surely it can't hurt? Is it easy to drain and refill or is it 'sealed for
> life' ? Anyone know the capcity? How about the diff?


The diff is straightforward to do. Simply drain and refill with 1.7 Litres
of
BMW SAF-XO synthetic oil. That's for diffs without limited slip BTW. No
doubt a google will come up with an equivalent oil.

The auto box is not as straightforward to refill, as the level depends on
temperature.
This is what the Bentley book says for the A5S 310Z 5 speed box.

"For the most accurate check of the ATF level, the car must be on a level
surface and unloaded, preferably on a lift. With the ATF at a temperature
between 30-55C (86-131F), remove the ATF filler plug. Place the transmission
in neutral and start the engine. Add ATF until it spills from the filler
hole. Reinstall the filler plug."

The best DIY method IMO, is to drain it whilst hot, and then remove the
sump. After cleaning it, replace it with a new gasket, and 'O' ring, then
fill with 3.0 Litres of Dexron II.
HTH.
Mike.

.
222 43438 <42efb7ca$0$88538$892e7fe2@authen.white.readfreenews.net> article retrieved - body follows

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96A6A5A99F33Anobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

> >> 4)Can't see any change of the ATF scheduled? Can it be changed and if
> >> it can, do you think it's a good idea? Dexron II ATF and EP90 for the
> >> diff, yes? The autobox is one particular item where I want to do
> >> everything in my  power to ensure it remains trouble free. A failure
> >> here may be uneconomic to repair.
> >
> > That's because BMW don't recommend changing the auto oil. Supposed to
> > be filled for life. However the consensus by many owners is that
> > changing it on high mileage cars is definitely worthwhile.
>
> Surely it can't hurt? Is it easy to drain and refill or is it 'sealed for
> life' ? Anyone know the capcity? How about the diff?


The diff is straightforward to do. Simply drain and refill with 1.7 Litres
of
BMW SAF-XO synthetic oil. That's for diffs without limited slip BTW. No
doubt a google will come up with an equivalent oil.

The auto box is not as straightforward to refill, as the level depends on
temperature.
This is what the Bentley book says for the A5S 310Z 5 speed box.

"For the most accurate check of the ATF level, the car must be on a level
surface and unloaded, preferably on a lift. With the ATF at a temperature
between 30-55C (86-131F), remove the ATF filler plug. Place the transmission
in neutral and start the engine. Add ATF until it spills from the filler
hole. Reinstall the filler plug."

The best DIY method IMO, is to drain it whilst hot, and then remove the
sump. After cleaning it, replace it with a new gasket, and 'O' ring, then
fill with 3.0 Litres of Dexron II.
HTH.
Mike.

"Mike G"  wrote in
news:42efb7ca$0$88538$892e7fe2@authen.white.readfreenews.net: 


> 
> "Stu"  wrote in message
> news:Xns96A6A5A99F33Anobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>> >> 4)Can't see any change of the ATF scheduled? Can it be changed and
>> >> if it can, do you think it's a good idea? Dexron II ATF and EP90
>> >> for the diff, yes? The autobox is one particular item where I want
>> >> to do everything in my  power to ensure it remains trouble free. A
>> >> failure here may be uneconomic to repair.
>> >
>> > That's because BMW don't recommend changing the auto oil. Supposed
>> > to be filled for life. However the consensus by many owners is that
>> > changing it on high mileage cars is definitely worthwhile.
>>
>> Surely it can't hurt? Is it easy to drain and refill or is it 'sealed
>> for life' ? Anyone know the capcity? How about the diff?
> 
> The diff is straightforward to do. Simply drain and refill with 1.7
> Litres of
> BMW SAF-XO synthetic oil. That's for diffs without limited slip BTW.
> No doubt a google will come up with an equivalent oil.
> 

Mine'll be a non-limited slip, then? That's at inspection 2, right? How 
would I tell when my inspection 2 is due? Is is a different indicator or 
do I just count the previous services up?


> The auto box is not as straightforward to refill, as the level depends
> on temperature.
> This is what the Bentley book says for the A5S 310Z 5 speed box.
> 
> "For the most accurate check of the ATF level, the car must be on a
> level surface and unloaded, preferably on a lift. With the ATF at a
> temperature between 30-55C (86-131F), remove the ATF filler plug.
> Place the transmission in neutral and start the engine. Add ATF until
> it spills from the filler hole. Reinstall the filler plug."
> 
> The best DIY method IMO, is to drain it whilst hot, and then remove
> the sump. After cleaning it, replace it with a new gasket, and 'O'
> ring, then fill with 3.0 Litres of Dexron II.
> HTH.
> Mike.
> 

Good info, thanks



-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Mike G"  wrote in
news:42efa994$0$14652$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader02.plus.net: 


> 
> "Dave Plowman (News)"  wrote in message
> news:4d94098625dave@davenoise.co.uk...
>> In article ,
>>    Stu  wrote:
>> > 3)What is the procedure for resetting the service light?
>> > If anyone's selling a compatible fault code reader, I'd be very
>> > interested. May save me a load of hassle some day.
>>
>> You can do it with a piece of wire, or make up a lead which you clip
>> to a body earth which is my preferred way if you don't have a pukka
>> tool. I'm not keen on using the paperclip method so often described
>> as I don't know what might happen if you shorted something you
>> shouldn't. I've got a code reader which re-sets mine, but made up
>> this lead for my brother, who reports it works fine.
> 
> I notice the little cheapy one I've got, appears to allows the oil and
> inspection service indicators to be reset individually. Presumably if
> the oil service LED's are reset on their own, the inspection setting
> carries on with it's own countdown regardless..
> Do the DIY ones like yours have the same facilty?
> Just interested because most DIY methods just mention resetting the
> service indicator period.
> Mike.
> 

Just had a look on the net. You put the jumper wire in then turn on the 
ignition for:

-  3 seconds to reset an oil service (or just until the light goes out)
- 12 seconds to reset an Inspection service

HTH, not that you really need to know ;-)


-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96A6D0DAB2A67nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...


> Mine'll be a non-limited slip, then? That's at inspection 2, right?


Yes. Inspection 1 you just top up if necessary.

 How

> would I tell when my inspection 2 is due? Is is a different indicator or
> do I just count the previous services up?


The same indicator, but as you say. Inspection 1 and 2 just alternate.

Starts off with 5 green LED's. The number drops, until they all go out, and
a yellow LED shows with either OILSERVICE, or INSPECTION. If you carry on
driving a red LED comes on to indicate the service is overdue. A clock
symbol in conjunction with INSPECTION shows that brake fluid renewal is due.

You also have CHECK CONTROL which sounds a gong and displays on the dash if
you drive off and forget to release the h/brake, leave a door open, bulbs
fail, brake, tail, head, dip etc. Oil pressure, coolant temperature. There's
many more but I wont bore you with the list.

About the ESD Regelt.

"It has not actually been sorted but he's been on the forums (BMW were no
help) and seen posts from others with the exact same error. Apparently,
it is cause by a bad earth or a faulty brake light switch, but he hasn't
got round to tracing it yet."

Apparently this is a known fault that BMW know about. They recommend
replacing the 'Check Control Module' the CCM. This is in the 'Front Power
Distribution Box'  (At the l/h rear of the engine compartment)
But the ESD Regelt fault can be triggered by a faulty f/brake switch.
I also found someone who reckoned, that rather than replacing the CCM.
Resoldering the R60 resistor in the CCM will cure it.

I also found out that 'Regelt' in german, is 'regulate' in english.
Now there's a really useful bit of information. :-)
Mike.

"Mike G"  wrote in
news:42efde8c$0$95476$892e7fe2@authen.white.readfreenews.net: 


> 
> "Stu"  wrote in message
> news:Xns96A6D0DAB2A67nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
> 
>> Mine'll be a non-limited slip, then? That's at inspection 2, right?
> 
> Yes. Inspection 1 you just top up if necessary.
> 
>  How
>> would I tell when my inspection 2 is due? Is is a different indicator
>> or do I just count the previous services up?
> 
> The same indicator, but as you say. Inspection 1 and 2 just alternate.
> 
> Starts off with 5 green LED's. The number drops, until they all go
> out, and a yellow LED shows with either OILSERVICE, or INSPECTION. If
> you carry on driving a red LED comes on to indicate the service is
> overdue. A clock symbol in conjunction with INSPECTION shows that
> brake fluid renewal is due. 
> 
> You also have CHECK CONTROL which sounds a gong and displays on the
> dash if you drive off and forget to release the h/brake, leave a door
> open, bulbs fail, brake, tail, head, dip etc. Oil pressure, coolant
> temperature. There's many more but I wont bore you with the list.
> 

My word. I never realised I'd purchased all this technology for such a 
(relatively) measly sum.


> About the ESD Regelt.


I still can't find out what the ESD stands for, in this scenario. A 
couple of posts say it means electronic differential lock :-/ Surely this 
car doesn't have such a feature?

> 
> "It has not actually been sorted but he's been on the forums (BMW were
> no help) and seen posts from others with the exact same error.
> Apparently, it is cause by a bad earth or a faulty brake light switch,
> but he hasn't got round to tracing it yet."
> 
> Apparently this is a known fault that BMW know about. They recommend
> replacing the 'Check Control Module' the CCM. This is in the 'Front
> Power Distribution Box'  (At the l/h rear of the engine compartment)
> But the ESD Regelt fault can be triggered by a faulty f/brake switch.
> I also found someone who reckoned, that rather than replacing the CCM.
> Resoldering the R60 resistor in the CCM will cure it.


Just done a google groups search and it showed one post where the owner 
fixed the fault just be cleaning the CCM contacts. I hope either this or 
the soldering fix will cure it. Having to fork out on a new CCM would not 
be a good start :-(

> 
> I also found out that 'Regelt' in german, is 'regulate' in english.
> Now there's a really useful bit of information. :-)
> Mike.


Only if I can find out what the ESD bit really means ;-)


Thanks Again 



-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96A6E995C2EE3nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

> "Mike G"  wrote in
> news:42efde8c$0$95476$892e7fe2@authen.white.readfreenews.net:
>
> >
> > "Stu"  wrote in message
> > news:Xns96A6D0DAB2A67nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
> >
> >> Mine'll be a non-limited slip, then? That's at inspection 2, right?
> >
> > Yes. Inspection 1 you just top up if necessary.
> >
> >  How
> >> would I tell when my inspection 2 is due? Is is a different indicator
> >> or do I just count the previous services up?
> >
> > The same indicator, but as you say. Inspection 1 and 2 just alternate.
> >
> > Starts off with 5 green LED's. The number drops, until they all go
> > out, and a yellow LED shows with either OILSERVICE, or INSPECTION. If
> > you carry on driving a red LED comes on to indicate the service is
> > overdue. A clock symbol in conjunction with INSPECTION shows that
> > brake fluid renewal is due.
> >
> > You also have CHECK CONTROL which sounds a gong and displays on the
> > dash if you drive off and forget to release the h/brake, leave a door
> > open, bulbs fail, brake, tail, head, dip etc. Oil pressure, coolant
> > temperature. There's many more but I wont bore you with the list.
> >
> My word. I never realised I'd purchased all this technology for such a
> (relatively) measly sum.
>
> > About the ESD Regelt.
>
> I still can't find out what the ESD stands for, in this scenario. A
> couple of posts say it means electronic differential lock :-/ Surely this
> car doesn't have such a feature?


No.
I wouldn't worry about ESD's meaning. My guess would something like
Electronic Service Display, but I don't think knowing will help.


> > Apparently this is a known fault that BMW know about. They recommend
> > replacing the 'Check Control Module' the CCM. This is in the 'Front
> > Power Distribution Box'  (At the l/h rear of the engine compartment)
> > But the ESD Regelt fault can be triggered by a faulty f/brake switch.
> > I also found someone who reckoned, that rather than replacing the CCM.
> > Resoldering the R60 resistor in the CCM will cure it.
>
> Just done a google groups search and it showed one post where the owner
> fixed the fault just be cleaning the CCM contacts. I hope either this or
> the soldering fix will cure it. Having to fork out on a new CCM would not
> be a good start :-(


Brake switch contacts maybe.
I'd be surprised if the CCM contained any contacts or moving parts.
Mike.

On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 19:13:25 +0100, Mike G wrote:


> 
> "For the most accurate check of the ATF level, the car must be on a level
> surface and unloaded, preferably on a lift. With the ATF at a temperature
> between 30-55C (86-131F), remove the ATF filler plug. Place the transmission
> in neutral and start the engine. Add ATF until it spills from the filler
> hole. Reinstall the filler plug."
> 
> The best DIY method IMO, is to drain it whilst hot, and then remove the
> sump. After cleaning it, replace it with a new gasket, and 'O' ring, then
> fill with 3.0 Litres of Dexron II.


I assume that's only a partial drain then as I seem to recall both my
fathers BMW's wanting many litres to fill the boxes from totally empty? Or
have I got that wrong? They were both E34's AFAIK


> HTH.
> Mike.

"Mike G"  wrote in
news:42effda3$0$91518$ed2e19e4@ptn-nntp-reader04.plus.net: 


> 
> "Stu"  wrote in message
> news:Xns96A6E995C2EE3nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>> "Mike G"  wrote in
>> news:42efde8c$0$95476$892e7fe2@authen.white.readfreenews.net:
>>
>> >
>> > "Stu"  wrote in message
>> > news:Xns96A6D0DAB2A67nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...
>> >
>> >> Mine'll be a non-limited slip, then? That's at inspection 2,
>> >> right? 
>> >
>> > Yes. Inspection 1 you just top up if necessary.
>> >
>> >  How
>> >> would I tell when my inspection 2 is due? Is is a different
>> >> indicator or do I just count the previous services up?
>> >
>> > The same indicator, but as you say. Inspection 1 and 2 just
>> > alternate. 
>> >
>> > Starts off with 5 green LED's. The number drops, until they all go
>> > out, and a yellow LED shows with either OILSERVICE, or INSPECTION.
>> > If you carry on driving a red LED comes on to indicate the service
>> > is overdue. A clock symbol in conjunction with INSPECTION shows
>> > that brake fluid renewal is due.
>> >
>> > You also have CHECK CONTROL which sounds a gong and displays on the
>> > dash if you drive off and forget to release the h/brake, leave a
>> > door open, bulbs fail, brake, tail, head, dip etc. Oil pressure,
>> > coolant temperature. There's many more but I wont bore you with the
>> > list. 
>> >
>> My word. I never realised I'd purchased all this technology for such
>> a (relatively) measly sum.
>>
>> > About the ESD Regelt.
>>
>> I still can't find out what the ESD stands for, in this scenario. A
>> couple of posts say it means electronic differential lock :-/ Surely
>> this car doesn't have such a feature?
> 
> No.
> I wouldn't worry about ESD's meaning. My guess would something like
> Electronic Service Display, but I don't think knowing will help.
> 
>> > Apparently this is a known fault that BMW know about. They
>> > recommend replacing the 'Check Control Module' the CCM. This is in
>> > the 'Front Power Distribution Box'  (At the l/h rear of the engine
>> > compartment) But the ESD Regelt fault can be triggered by a faulty
>> > f/brake switch. I also found someone who reckoned, that rather than
>> > replacing the CCM. Resoldering the R60 resistor in the CCM will
>> > cure it. 
>>
>> Just done a google groups search and it showed one post where the
>> owner fixed the fault just be cleaning the CCM contacts. I hope
>> either this or the soldering fix will cure it. Having to fork out on
>> a new CCM would not be a good start :-(
> 
> Brake switch contacts maybe.
> I'd be surprised if the CCM contained any contacts or moving parts.
> Mike.
> 
> 

I think he meant the contacts that connect the unit to the wiring loom. I 
could handle a new brake switch, they're cheap enough. I'll start 
investigating once I get it, if the seller doesn't solve it first.



-- 
Stuart Sharp

Chris Street  wrote in
news:93gyoze9ghl.1xyxh7jqfhy2a$.dlg@40tude.net: 


> On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 19:13:25 +0100, Mike G wrote:
> 
>> 
>> "For the most accurate check of the ATF level, the car must be on a
>> level surface and unloaded, preferably on a lift. With the ATF at a
>> temperature between 30-55C (86-131F), remove the ATF filler plug.
>> Place the transmission in neutral and start the engine. Add ATF until
>> it spills from the filler hole. Reinstall the filler plug."
>> 
>> The best DIY method IMO, is to drain it whilst hot, and then remove
>> the sump. After cleaning it, replace it with a new gasket, and 'O'
>> ring, then fill with 3.0 Litres of Dexron II.
> 
> I assume that's only a partial drain then as I seem to recall both my
> fathers BMW's wanting many litres to fill the boxes from totally
> empty? Or have I got that wrong? They were both E34's AFAIK
> 

Nope. Just checked on autodata. 1996 E34 525, ATF capacity: 3.0 litres :-)



-- 
Stuart Sharp

On Wed, 03 Aug 2005 01:14:38 -0500, Stu wrote:


> Chris Street  wrote in
> news:93gyoze9ghl.1xyxh7jqfhy2a$.dlg@40tude.net: 
> 
>> On Tue, 2 Aug 2005 19:13:25 +0100, Mike G wrote:
>> 
>>> 
>>> "For the most accurate check of the ATF level, the car must be on a
>>> level surface and unloaded, preferably on a lift. With the ATF at a
>>> temperature between 30-55C (86-131F), remove the ATF filler plug.
>>> Place the transmission in neutral and start the engine. Add ATF until
>>> it spills from the filler hole. Reinstall the filler plug."
>>> 
>>> The best DIY method IMO, is to drain it whilst hot, and then remove
>>> the sump. After cleaning it, replace it with a new gasket, and 'O'
>>> ring, then fill with 3.0 Litres of Dexron II.
>> 
>> I assume that's only a partial drain then as I seem to recall both my
>> fathers BMW's wanting many litres to fill the boxes from totally
>> empty? Or have I got that wrong? They were both E34's AFAIK
>> 
> Nope. Just checked on autodata. 1996 E34 525, ATF capacity: 3.0 litres :-)


ISTR that we needed something like eight litres. I must be getting it
confused with something else!

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96A749BD0F6BBnobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

> >> > You also have CHECK CONTROL which sounds a gong and displays on the
> >> > dash if you drive off and forget to release the h/brake, leave a
> >> > door open, bulbs fail, brake, tail, head, dip etc. Oil pressure,
> >> > coolant temperature. There's many more but I wont bore you with the
> >> > list.
> >> >
> >> My word. I never realised I'd purchased all this technology for such
> >> a (relatively) measly sum.
> >>
> >> > About the ESD Regelt.
> >>
> >> I still can't find out what the ESD stands for, in this scenario. A
> >> couple of posts say it means electronic differential lock :-/ Surely
> >> this car doesn't have such a feature?
> >
> > No.
> > I wouldn't worry about ESD's meaning. My guess would something like
> > Electronic Service Display, but I don't think knowing will help.
> >
> >> > Apparently this is a known fault that BMW know about. They
> >> > recommend replacing the 'Check Control Module' the CCM. This is in
> >> > the 'Front Power Distribution Box'  (At the l/h rear of the engine
> >> > compartment) But the ESD Regelt fault can be triggered by a faulty
> >> > f/brake switch. I also found someone who reckoned, that rather than
> >> > replacing the CCM. Resoldering the R60 resistor in the CCM will
> >> > cure it.
> >>
> >> Just done a google groups search and it showed one post where the
> >> owner fixed the fault just be cleaning the CCM contacts. I hope
> >> either this or the soldering fix will cure it. Having to fork out on
> >> a new CCM would not be a good start :-(
> >
> > Brake switch contacts maybe.
> > I'd be surprised if the CCM contained any contacts or moving parts.
> > Mike.
> >
> >
> I think he meant the contacts that connect the unit to the wiring loom. I
> could handle a new brake switch, they're cheap enough. I'll start
> investigating once I get it, if the seller doesn't solve it first.


All this talk about the CCM has started me thinking it might be causing the
fault on my car. Occasionally I get the gong and the check control tells me
there's a SELF LEVELING fault. My car hasn't got self levelling so it's a
bit of a mystery.
Presumaably it's the Check Control Module that's throwing up the error.
Thing is, it could be weeks between the fault appearing, so I'm reluctant to
spend money to sort it.
Mike.

"Mike G"  wrote in
news:42f0915c$0$28088$892e7fe2@authen.white.readfreenews.net: 


> 
> All this talk about the CCM has started me thinking it might be
> causing the fault on my car. Occasionally I get the gong and the check
> control tells me there's a SELF LEVELING fault. My car hasn't got self
> levelling so it's a bit of a mystery.
> Presumaably it's the Check Control Module that's throwing up the
> error. Thing is, it could be weeks between the fault appearing, so I'm
> reluctant to spend money to sort it.
> Mike.
> 

One of the forum posts says that they get dry joints on the resistor packs 
and that you can fix the EDS Regelt by re-soldering them. Apparently, it's 
pack R60 and there are about 20 joints to resolder to do the whole pack. 
You can often see which are the dry joints, though. May have nothing to do 
with your fault, but you never know. I would at least open it up and have a 
nose round for dry joints.

Pesky electronics!


-- 
Stuart Sharp

"Stu"  wrote in message
news:Xns96A7B11BFA75nobodyhomecom@216.196.109.144...

> "Mike G"  wrote in
> news:42f0915c$0$28088$892e7fe2@authen.white.readfreenews.net:
>
> >
> > All this talk about the CCM has started me thinking it might be
> > causing the fault on my car. Occasionally I get the gong and the check
> > control tells me there's a SELF LEVELING fault. My car hasn't got self
> > levelling so it's a bit of a mystery.
> > Presumaably it's the Check Control Module that's throwing up the
> > error. Thing is, it could be weeks between the fault appearing, so I'm
> > reluctant to spend money to sort it.
> > Mike.
> >
> One of the forum posts says that they get dry joints on the resistor packs
> and that you can fix the EDS Regelt by re-soldering them. Apparently, it's
> pack R60 and there are about 20 joints to resolder to do the whole pack.


Wot I said in an earlier post. :-)


> You can often see which are the dry joints, though. May have nothing to do
> with your fault, but you never know. I would at least open it up and have
a
> nose round for dry joints.


That's what I was thinking. I've never even had the cover off the 'Power
Disribution Box', so ATM I don't even know what I'd be looking for.
I think I'll find out a little more before I start fiddling with anything.
Cost of a new module if I bugger it up etc. :-)
Maybe I shouldn't have mentioned it. It's at least three months since the
fault last appeared, but this morning it came up on the way to work.

I rang my nearest BMW dealer some months ago. I Thaught they might know
straightaway what was causing it. They didn't. Suggested I bring the car in
for a check up. I asked how long that would take, and they couldn't tell me.
I then asked what their hourly rate was, 90!
How the hell can they justify rates like that. I told them to forget it. No
way was I paying that sort of money just for them to plug it into their
diagnostic machine, which is all I think they would have done..

>
> Pesky electronics!


Yup, but as long as It doesn't get any more frequent I can live with it.
Especially if it's going to cost a fair bit to fix.
Might see if I can pick up a CCM in the breakers.
Mike.

"Mike G"  wrote in
news:42f1088d$0$24007$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader01.plus.net: 


>> One of the forum posts says that they get dry joints on the resistor
>> packs and that you can fix the EDS Regelt by re-soldering them.
>> Apparently, it's pack R60 and there are about 20 joints to resolder
>> to do the whole pack. 
> 
> Wot I said in an earlier post. :-)


Oops...sorry :-)

> 
>> You can often see which are the dry joints, though. May have nothing
>> to do with your fault, but you never know. I would at least open it
>> up and have 
> a
>> nose round for dry joints.
> 
> That's what I was thinking. I've never even had the cover off the
> 'Power Disribution Box', so ATM I don't even know what I'd be looking
> for. I think I'll find out a little more before I start fiddling with
> anything. Cost of a new module if I bugger it up etc. :-)
> Maybe I shouldn't have mentioned it. It's at least three months since
> the fault last appeared, but this morning it came up on the way to
> work. 


Guess it depends on your confidence in your soldering ability. As long as 
it's easier than chipping a PS2, I'd be tempted to have a go. That was 
one soldering job I did that was *bloody* difficult. A fair bit of 
desolder braid was used there!

> 
> I rang my nearest BMW dealer some months ago. I Thaught they might
> know straightaway what was causing it. They didn't. Suggested I bring
> the car in for a check up. I asked how long that would take, and they
> couldn't tell me. I then asked what their hourly rate was, 90!
> How the hell can they justify rates like that. I told them to forget
> it. No way was I paying that sort of money just for them to plug it
> into their diagnostic machine, which is all I think they would have
> done.. 
>>
>> Pesky electronics!
> 
> Yup, but as long as It doesn't get any more frequent I can live with
> it. Especially if it's going to cost a fair bit to fix.
> Might see if I can pick up a CCM in the breakers.
> Mike.
> 

At least if you got a working replacement, you would then have free reign 
to fiddle with your old one and try to fix it - nothing to lose at that 
stage! Let me know the cost if you find one, I might need one too :-/



-- 
Stuart Sharp