I am proposing to install a Velux type window in my roof and understand
that I should be able to complete the whole process from inside.
However my roof is fully boarded with diagonally laid 24mm planks under
a slate (composite) tile.  Can anyone please advise how best to go
about this and whether it can be achieved from inside?

Rich wrote:


> I am proposing to install a Velux type window in my roof and understand
> that I should be able to complete the whole process from inside.
> However my roof is fully boarded with diagonally laid 24mm planks under
> a slate (composite) tile.  Can anyone please advise how best to go
> about this and whether it can be achieved from inside?


It can be done from inside - although it is simpler if you have outside 
access.

The windows are designed to be a multiple of standard rafter spacings in 
width, so your first task is to choose the location between two (or 
three) rafters where you will fit it. If your rafters are at the wrong 
spacing then you will need to cut the next size hole up and then add 
some extra carpentry to reduce the gap to fit the frame.

Cutting away the boards will probably be the hardest job since these 
will probably need to be cut flush with the inside edges of the rafters 
in question. Do you know what is above the boards? (i.e. felt, tile 
batons etc)

An electric  reciprocating saw with a long rough cutting blade may do 
the job. You obviously want to avoid hitting the slates with the blade 
while doing it - so a shallow angle of cut and slow speed is in order!

Once you have a suitable hole you can de-tile/slate the area and fit the 
flashing kit. Then remove the sash from the window and fit the frame - 
they usually screw into the rafters using brackets supplied. Finally you 
can refit the sash to the frame and adjust for square etc.


-- 
Cheers,

John.

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"John Rumm"  wrote in message 
news:42e06b12$0$2484$ed2619ec@ptn-nntp-reader01.plus.net...

> Rich wrote:
>
>> I am proposing to install a Velux type window in my roof and understand
>> that I should be able to complete the whole process from inside.
>> However my roof is fully boarded with diagonally laid 24mm planks under
>> a slate (composite) tile.  Can anyone please advise how best to go
>> about this and whether it can be achieved from inside?
>
> It can be done from inside - although it is simpler if you have outside 
> access.
>
> The windows are designed to be a multiple of standard rafter spacings in 
> width, so your first task is to choose the location between two (or three) 
> rafters where you will fit it. If your rafters are at the wrong spacing 
> then you will need to cut the next size hole up and then add some extra 
> carpentry to reduce the gap to fit the frame.
>
> Cutting away the boards will probably be the hardest job since these will 
> probably need to be cut flush with the inside edges of the rafters in 
> question. Do you know what is above the boards? (i.e. felt, tile batons 
> etc)
>
> An electric  reciprocating saw with a long rough cutting blade may do the 
> job. You obviously want to avoid hitting the slates with the blade while 
> doing it - so a shallow angle of cut and slow speed is in order!
>


Warning ... one cuts around the perimeter of the device, this'll
liberate a rectangle of your 24mm (wide?) boards plus their
attached felt(?) battens(?) and tiles ! It'll be heavy ... and
require some support as the saw cuts leave less and less of
the remaining roof attached. Don't allow it to drop onto
(and through?) the ceiling of the bedroom(?) below. A 'workmate'
was positione below it -itself on planks straddling joists-
to provide somewhere to place the liberated bit of roof.
{ you might consider screwing some scrap battens across the
roof's boards within the perimeter to be cut to hold the thing
together ).


> Once you have a suitable hole you can de-tile/slate the area and fit the 
> flashing kit. Then remove the sash from the window and fit the frame - 
> they usually screw into the rafters using brackets supplied. Finally you 
> can refit the sash to the frame and adjust for square etc.
>
>
> -- 
> Cheers,
>
> John.


I fully endorse what John has said and add the following ...;-

The Velux 'device' will separate into the glazing unit and the
outer frame. You haven't mentioned the size of unit that you intend
to fix but you'll have to get it into/onto the roof. Check the
size of the loft-space hatch(?) opening! In my case, the frame was
hoisted into the opening 'externally'; a rope was dangled down
through the hole over the gutters and handing onto the frame,
then the 'heavy' frame was lifted up a ladder while the line was
handed in  - ( I'm trying to say; the rope didn't 'lift' the weight)
this was a three man job -one inside the loft with the rope; one
footing the ladder which had been staked to the ground; and a third
climbing up the ladder supporting/guiding the frame.

You may have a 'huge' loft-access hatch and be installing
'tiny' Velux lights - but I hadn't thought of this constraint.
[Blindingly obvious with hindsight!]

Apart from the 'how do we get the thing up there?'; the
job was executed from the inside - although obviously
one's body is protruding through the roof line - from about
waist height - you'll need a good support/firm footing.

For the carpentry work a nailgun was invaluable - the
'kerphump' as yet another nail goes home is less disturbing
to the existing roof than the bang-bang-bang as one tries to
hammer in another nail.

BTW, the dust/crap was unbelievable; I can only repeat what Norm
says; 'There is no more important rule ... than safety glasses',
a dust mask is pretty important too; my wife insisted on laying
down dust-sheets on the landing and stairs -well worth the effort.

The amount of light up in the loft-space was reward enough.

-- 

Brian