This is easy, I thunked, as the top balljoint seperated with a forked 
splitter and a few minor whomps with a small hammer.

Then the lower bastard - the forked splitter wouldn't budge it even when 
being "carefully" whomped with a sledgehammer. The wind-it-up splitter was 
then employed with a spectacular lack of success, mainly due to the amount 
of sideways play in the two parts allowing the bolt to slip off the bottom 
half when under a lot of tension.

I've now fitted two washers to the splitter to take up the sideways slack 
but I have a sense of impending doom about it, TBH.

Is it worth leaving the joint under tension for a while? Heat's not really 
an option.....unless I remove all the rubber and grease from the ball joint.

In short, bollocks!

Si

"Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot"  wrote in message 
news:42d2dded$0$13702$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com...

> This is easy, I thunked, as the top balljoint seperated with a forked 
> splitter and a few minor whomps with a small hammer.
>
> Then the lower bastard - the forked splitter wouldn't budge it even when 
> being "carefully" whomped with a sledgehammer. The wind-it-up splitter was 
> then employed with a spectacular lack of success, mainly due to the amount 
> of sideways play in the two parts allowing the bolt to slip off the bottom 
> half when under a lot of tension.
>
> I've now fitted two washers to the splitter to take up the sideways slack 
> but I have a sense of impending doom about it, TBH.
>
> Is it worth leaving the joint under tension for a while? Heat's not really 
> an option.....unless I remove all the rubber and grease from the ball 
> joint.
>
> In short, bollocks!
>
> Si


I've done one off these in the past.

From what I remember, I ended up putting the ball joint splitter on, 
tightening it reasonably well, then hitting the side off the casting where 
the ball joint goes through with a hammer. I'm sure that neither on their 
own would work, and it required both together to work.
I'm not sure if it's the terrano or the diahatsu fourtrak (i'm pretty sure 
it's the terrano) that requires you to remove the CV shaft to get the ball 
joint out.

Moray Cuthill wrote:


> I'm not sure if it's the terrano or the diahatsu fourtrak (i'm pretty
> sure it's the terrano) that requires you to remove the CV shaft to
> get the ball joint out.


*Thinks*

Oh shit - there's not much room there...

I wondered why they used nuts and bolts on the bottom joint and just bolts 
on the top one. It's because there's no room to get a socket on the top of 
the bolts - just a spanner, and a socket underneath.

Ho hum, we shall see later when I feel up to having a look.

Thanks for the removal advice anyway, and the warning.

Si

Moray Cuthill wrote:

>
> I've done one off these in the past.
>
> From what I remember, I ended up putting the ball joint splitter on,
> tightening it reasonably well, then hitting the side off the casting
> where the ball joint goes through with a hammer. I'm sure that
> neither on their own would work, and it required both together to
> work.


The new improved splitter worked a treat - the joint popped apart after just 
a few turns.


> I'm not sure if it's the terrano or the diahatsu fourtrak (i'm pretty
> sure it's the terrano) that requires you to remove the CV shaft to
> get the ball joint out.


Yes, it is the Terrano. Bugger.

I don't suppose you remember how to get the driveshaft away just enough to 
get the balljoint out? I'm going to have to get a manual for it...

I undid the six allen bolts to get access to the end of the shaft, just for 
a look, and removed the circlip inside, but it looked too scary after that 
so I've put it back together until I can find someone wot knows.

Just as a final laugh.....I thought I'd give up and take the car to a garage 
and let them do it but now the threaded end of the balljoint is so knackered 
that if I want to do that I'll have to hacksaw a few mm off it to get the 
nut back on!! Laugh?

Si

"Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot"  wrote in message 
news:42d3d1b9$0$13696$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com...

>
> Just as a final laugh.....I thought I'd give up and take the car to a 
> garage and let them do it but now the threaded end of the balljoint is so 
> knackered that if I want to do that I'll have to hacksaw a few mm off it 
> to get the nut back on!! Laugh?
>


Can you get a grinder to it?

"Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot"  wrote in message 
news:42d3d1b9$0$13696$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com...

> Moray Cuthill wrote:
>>
>> I've done one off these in the past.
>>
>> From what I remember, I ended up putting the ball joint splitter on,
>> tightening it reasonably well, then hitting the side off the casting
>> where the ball joint goes through with a hammer. I'm sure that
>> neither on their own would work, and it required both together to
>> work.
>
> The new improved splitter worked a treat - the joint popped apart after 
> just a few turns.
>
>> I'm not sure if it's the terrano or the diahatsu fourtrak (i'm pretty
>> sure it's the terrano) that requires you to remove the CV shaft to
>> get the ball joint out.
>
> Yes, it is the Terrano. Bugger.
>
> I don't suppose you remember how to get the driveshaft away just enough to 
> get the balljoint out? I'm going to have to get a manual for it...
>
> I undid the six allen bolts to get access to the end of the shaft, just 
> for a look, and removed the circlip inside, but it looked too scary after 
> that so I've put it back together until I can find someone wot knows.
>
> Just as a final laugh.....I thought I'd give up and take the car to a 
> garage and let them do it but now the threaded end of the balljoint is so 
> knackered that if I want to do that I'll have to hacksaw a few mm off it 
> to get the nut back on!! Laugh?


It's not too hard to get the CV shaft out.

Undo the 6bolts, which removes the auto-hub. Then removing the circlip will 
let the shaft slide out. It may off course require a bit persuasion to get 
the shaft out. While you've got the free-hub off, it is always worthwhile 
adjusting the wheel bearing. Which requires you to remove the locking bolt 
(should be a countershunk allen headed bolt), removing the locking plate 
that the bolt passes through, then tightening up the nut behind that to 
remove any play.

From what I remember, you don't have to take the CV shaft right out, just 
enough to get into the nuts/bolts. You'll have to have the top ball joint 
off when doing this, and it helps if you;ve got someone else there to help 
hold/move the bits. Also make sure you put all the nuts/bolts into the new 
bottom ball joint before you put the shaft back in.

Moray Cuthill wrote:

>
> It's not too hard to get the CV shaft out.
>


<Snippage>

You absolute star! I will play with it in due course.

Si

Moray Cuthill wrote:


> It's not too hard to get the CV shaft out.
>


Job done. Many thanks for the help with this, Moray.

It was a bit of a bugger seating the circlip back onto the driveshaft after 
adjusting the wheel bearing though. I suppose that's what the threaded hole 
is for in the end of the shaft - to use a puller of some description.

Anyway, all done now and I are a happy bunny :o)

Si

"Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot"  wrote in message 
news:42d6afe3$0$6474$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com...

> Moray Cuthill wrote:
>
>> It's not too hard to get the CV shaft out.
>>
>
> Job done. Many thanks for the help with this, Moray.
>
> It was a bit of a bugger seating the circlip back onto the driveshaft 
> after adjusting the wheel bearing though. I suppose that's what the 
> threaded hole is for in the end of the shaft - to use a puller of some 
> description.
>
> Anyway, all done now and I are a happy bunny :o)
>
> Si


Glad to hear you got it done.
Now that you mention it, i did have problems getting that circlip back on. 
Think I got someone else to push the shaft in while i put the circlip back 
on.

moray

PC Paul wrote:

> "Mungo "two sheds" Toadfoot"  wrote in message
> news:42d3d1b9$0$13696$cc9e4d1f@news-text.dial.pipex.com...
>>
>> Just as a final laugh.....I thought I'd give up and take the car to a
>> garage and let them do it but now the threaded end of the balljoint
>> is so knackered that if I want to do that I'll have to hacksaw a few
>> mm off it to get the nut back on!! Laugh?
>>
>
> Can you get a grinder to it?


You are a biker and I claim my five free signs of the holy pushrods.

Si