Hi,

I have a Candy Sprint 1000 Washing Machine that has stopped working.
When I select any Program including drain only or spin only nothing
happens.

The Washer has a seperate On/Off switch to the timer and when the
machine is switched on the red light above the timer lights up which
shows that it is not the fuse.

In the year before the machine stopped working, the Program selector
switch would sometimes rotate clicking from one program to another
for
about a minute or two before returning to the correct position.

I assume that the Timer/Programmer/Selector is faulty and needs
replacing but as I have no experience in repairing washing machines I
would be grateful for your suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

John.

JhnWil875@Aol.com wrote:


> Hi,
> 
> I have a Candy Sprint 1000 Washing Machine that has stopped working.
> When I select any Program including drain only or spin only nothing
> happens.
> 
> The Washer has a seperate On/Off switch to the timer and when the
> machine is switched on the red light above the timer lights up which
> shows that it is not the fuse.
> 
> In the year before the machine stopped working, the Program selector
> switch would sometimes rotate clicking from one program to another
> for
> about a minute or two before returning to the correct position.
> 
> I assume that the Timer/Programmer/Selector is faulty and needs
> replacing but as I have no experience in repairing washing machines I
> would be grateful for your suggestions.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> John.


Sounds like the brushes have gone on the motor. Easy enough to fix. The
part will cost about 5. To call a repair man 80. Get a copy of they
Haynes Washing machine repair manual.

--
zaax

"zaax"  wrote in message
news:xn0e4o1uve0dcs000@news.individual.net...

> JhnWil875@Aol.com wrote:
>
> > Hi,
> >
> > I have a Candy Sprint 1000 Washing Machine that has stopped working.
> > When I select any Program including drain only or spin only nothing
> > happens.
> >
> > The Washer has a seperate On/Off switch to the timer and when the
> > machine is switched on the red light above the timer lights up which
> > shows that it is not the fuse.
> >
> > In the year before the machine stopped working, the Program selector
> > switch would sometimes rotate clicking from one program to another
> > for
> > about a minute or two before returning to the correct position.
> >
> > I assume that the Timer/Programmer/Selector is faulty and needs
> > replacing but as I have no experience in repairing washing machines I
> > would be grateful for your suggestions.
> >
> > Thanks in advance.
> >
> > John.
>
> Sounds like the brushes have gone on the motor. Easy enough to fix. The
> part will cost about 5. To call a repair man 80. Get a copy of they
> Haynes Washing machine repair manual.
>
> --
> zaax


Motor brushes would not make the machine dead, is the door locking closed ?

Thanx,

Everyone seems to be saying it's the Motor Brushes, but I cant see how
worn/broken motor brushes would stop the machine doing a drain only
function, as to the door locking, Im not sure I understand your
question but there seems to be no defect with the door whatsoever, it
has been suggested to me that by an Ex repairman that it is the
Interlock which I have taken out, but I have no way of testing it,
apart from a continuity test I did before I took it out, and there is
continuity between the live pin on the mains plug and both AC contacts
when the main On/Off switch is put into the On position. I do have the
Haynes manual but it does not tell me how to test the Interlock or the
timer or what the fault is apart from saying it might be the Interlock,
I could gamble on buying a new Interlock and if that does not work then
buying a new Timer.


>From what limited knowledge I have I suspect it is either the

Interlock, Timer or electronic module.

Regards,

John.

wrote in message
news:1121241176.760540.110280@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

> Thanx,
>
> Everyone seems to be saying it's the Motor Brushes, but I cant see how
> worn/broken motor brushes would stop the machine doing a drain only
> function, as to the door locking, Im not sure I understand your
> question but there seems to be no defect with the door whatsoever, it
> has been suggested to me that by an Ex repairman that it is the
> Interlock which I have taken out, but I have no way of testing it,
> apart from a continuity test I did before I took it out, and there is
> continuity between the live pin on the mains plug and both AC contacts
> when the main On/Off switch is put into the On position. I do have the
> Haynes manual but it does not tell me how to test the Interlock or the
> timer or what the fault is apart from saying it might be the Interlock,
> I could gamble on buying a new Interlock and if that does not work then
> buying a new Timer.
>
> >From what limited knowledge I have I suspect it is either the
> Interlock, Timer or electronic module.
>
> Regards,
>
> John.
>

The machine is totally dead?  Then by-pass the door locking gear by putting
the wires together outside the interlock.  This will tell you for sure if
the locking gear is working or not.

The machine won't do anything at all if it thinks the door is still open,
and it checks this using a little switch that makes and breaks when the
pecker engages in the hole and pushes a slide back against the switching
mechanism.  These Interlocks also have a temperature activated locking
system that must cool sufficiently before the machine will allow the door to
be opened after a wash cycle.  The locking is done by a bi-metal strip that
doesn't allow the lock to be released when the door is pulled, so it's a
simple to work on as well.

wrote in message
news:1121241176.760540.110280@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...

> Thanx,
>
> Everyone seems to be saying it's the Motor Brushes, but I cant see how
> worn/broken motor brushes would stop the machine doing a drain only
> function, as to the door locking, Im not sure I understand your
> question but there seems to be no defect with the door whatsoever, it
> has been suggested to me that by an Ex repairman that it is the
> Interlock which I have taken out, but I have no way of testing it,
> apart from a continuity test I did before I took it out, and there is
> continuity between the live pin on the mains plug and both AC contacts
> when the main On/Off switch is put into the On position. I do have the
> Haynes manual but it does not tell me how to test the Interlock or the
> timer or what the fault is apart from saying it might be the Interlock,
> I could gamble on buying a new Interlock and if that does not work then
> buying a new Timer.
>
> >From what limited knowledge I have I suspect it is either the
> Interlock, Timer or electronic module.
>
> Regards,
>
> John.


If the door locks closed when turned on at the switch ie you cannot open the
door then the interlock is fine, if not short the live and common together
(two thick wires) and see if the machine then work. I agree with you the
brushes will not effect the drain pump.

"BigWallop"  wrote in message
news:j98Be.68843$G8.36343@text.news.blueyonder.co.uk...

>
>  wrote in message
> news:1121241176.760540.110280@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> > Thanx,
> >
> > Everyone seems to be saying it's the Motor Brushes, but I cant see how
> > worn/broken motor brushes would stop the machine doing a drain only
> > function, as to the door locking, Im not sure I understand your
> > question but there seems to be no defect with the door whatsoever, it
> > has been suggested to me that by an Ex repairman that it is the
> > Interlock which I have taken out, but I have no way of testing it,
> > apart from a continuity test I did before I took it out, and there is
> > continuity between the live pin on the mains plug and both AC contacts
> > when the main On/Off switch is put into the On position. I do have the
> > Haynes manual but it does not tell me how to test the Interlock or the
> > timer or what the fault is apart from saying it might be the Interlock,
> > I could gamble on buying a new Interlock and if that does not work then
> > buying a new Timer.
> >
> > >From what limited knowledge I have I suspect it is either the
> > Interlock, Timer or electronic module.
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > John.
> >
> The machine is totally dead?  Then by-pass the door locking gear by
putting
> the wires together outside the interlock.  This will tell you for sure if
> the locking gear is working or not.
>
> The machine won't do anything at all if it thinks the door is still open,
> and it checks this using a little switch that makes and breaks when the
> pecker engages in the hole and pushes a slide back against the switching
> mechanism.  These Interlocks also have a temperature activated locking
> system that must cool sufficiently before the machine will allow the door
to
> be opened after a wash cycle.  The locking is done by a bi-metal strip
that
> doesn't allow the lock to be released when the door is pulled, so it's a
> simple to work on as well.
>

If shorting it out be careful not to short it to neutral this is usually the
centre wire marked on the interlock and usually thinner in size

>

On 9 Jul 2005 11:46:43 -0700, in free.uk.diy.home "JhnWil875@Aol.com"
 wrote:


> I have a Candy Sprint 1000 Washing Machine that has stopped working.


http://www.diyfaq.org.uk/contents.html and look for Washing Machine FAQ

--
Phil
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