Any advice on what to do now that I've snapped a head bolt whilst
tightening it?  There's about the bottom inch of the bolt left in the
block.

You'll have to take the head off again to get at the bolt. First question, 
is the bolt protruding from the block, is it reasonably flush with the 
block, or is it more than about one thread below the block?

Rob Graham

In article ,
   Nigel47  wrote:

> Any advice on what to do now that I've snapped a head bolt whilst
> tightening it?  There's about the bottom inch of the bolt left in the
> block.


Stud extractor or Mole grips.

-- 
*Everyone has a photographic memory. Some just don't have film.

    Dave Plowman        dave@davenoise.co.uk           London SW
                  To e-mail, change noise into sound.

"Nigel47"  wrote in message
news:62b96f55b1a66cc956d9efb69cf659ee@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...

> Any advice on what to do now that I've snapped a head bolt whilst
> tightening it?  There's about the bottom inch of the bolt left in the
> block.


Head off again, but it should come out easily, if the bolts and block
threads were clean before assy. I,e, bolts screwed freely into the block.
If it's below the surface you might be able to unscrew it, using a couple of
scribers or sharp points. Another alternative is to drill it with a l/h
drill bit. Chances are that it will unscrew as you drill it. If you're lucky
and it's above, pliers or Mole grips. Quite often fingers are good enough.
Mike.

Thanks very much Rob, Dave & Mike, the broken piece was just below the top
of the block and I managed to turn it out with a center-punch and hammer, 
crisis over !!  
PS I've learn't my lesson here, NEVER re-use old head bolts, it's worth
getting new ones.

Nige.

"Nigel47"  wrote in message 
news:3e13b736fe9ae426ac20e92630d6fb8d@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...

> Thanks very much Rob, Dave & Mike, the broken piece was just below the top
> of the block and I managed to turn it out with a center-punch and hammer,
> crisis over !!
> PS I've learn't my lesson here, NEVER re-use old head bolts, it's worth
> getting new ones.
>
> Nige.
>


Just before the bolt yields the bolt becomes more easy to turn.  That's the 
point when you should stop turning!

"Fred" <Fred@n0spam.c0m> wrote in message 
news:42cd8ab7$0$31414$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...

>
> Just before the bolt yields the bolt becomes more easy to turn.  That's 
> the point when you should stop turning!
>


Ideally, stop just before it goes like that ;-)

"PC Paul"  wrote in message
news:Q3gze.128731$Vj3.91897@fe2.news.blueyonder.co.uk...

> "Fred" <Fred@n0spam.c0m> wrote in message
> news:42cd8ab7$0$31414$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...
> >
> > Just before the bolt yields the bolt becomes more easy to turn.  That's
> > the point when you should stop turning!
> >
>
> Ideally, stop just before it goes like that ;-)
>

if you've got the proper tool i.e. angular torque dial gauge you shouldn't
have a problem with the bolts snapping. except where you've re-used old ones
now the rover 200 series uses bloody great big long ones as they bolt both
half's of the engine together, you can re use them if the length of them is
correct.