Hi

the kit comes with a cutter that i guess goes over the pipe and as it
tightens cuts a hole.
what happens to the bit it cuts out? i am worried about it falling in to the
pipe and flowing towards the combi boiler.

looks easier than fitting a T joint with compression joints.

this will be my first time doing any plumbing.

Mark

Last time I did this for a washing machine, the bit of pipe came out of the 
tap.  I had left the next tap running when cutting the pipe to make sure the 
bit came out with the water.


"Mark D Smith"  wrote in message 
news:42c2ece0$0$23688$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...

> Hi
>
> the kit comes with a cutter that i guess goes over the pipe and as it
> tightens cuts a hole.
> what happens to the bit it cuts out? i am worried about it falling in to 
> the
> pipe and flowing towards the combi boiler.
>
> looks easier than fitting a T joint with compression joints.
>
> this will be my first time doing any plumbing.
>
> Mark
> 

I tried one of these kits and found the water pressure was reduced so much 
that I only had a trickle coming out of a 60 ft hose.
Trying to use it with a sprinkler was a waste of time.
It would also take an age to fill a watering can direct from the tap.
The cutter on these kits will usually be 1/4 inch diameter so effectively 
you're throttling the flow from 1/2 inch diameter down to 1/4 inch diameter, 
which is a reduction of 1:4 in the section area.
In the end I had to replace the kit with a standard "T" piece, thereby 
maintaining normal pressure.


"Mark D Smith"  wrote in message 
news:42c2ece0$0$23688$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...

> Hi
>
> the kit comes with a cutter that i guess goes over the pipe and as it
> tightens cuts a hole.
> what happens to the bit it cuts out? i am worried about it falling in to 
> the
> pipe and flowing towards the combi boiler.
>
> looks easier than fitting a T joint with compression joints.
>
> this will be my first time doing any plumbing.
>
> Mark
> 

"Mark D Smith"  wrote in message
news:42c2ece0$0$23688$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...

> Hi
>
> the kit comes with a cutter that i guess goes over the pipe and as it
> tightens cuts a hole.
> what happens to the bit it cuts out? i am worried about it falling in to
the
> pipe and flowing towards the combi boiler.
>
> looks easier than fitting a T joint with compression joints.
>
> this will be my first time doing any plumbing.
>
> Mark
>


I would sling that and use a compression T. As others have said there are
issues with pressure loss and the punched out bit going astray. I've also
heard that there can be problems with them leaking.

A compression T couldn't be much easier anyway, if you can tighten a nut and
bolt you can do it. You will almost certainly have to put other joints in
anyway, so one more won't hurt. Does the kit also include a shut-off or
isolator of some kind? I would want to be able to turn it off in winter and
drain down the outside part to avoid freezing.

Steve

"shazzbat"  wrote in message
news:da11kp$58q$2@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...

>
> "Mark D Smith"  wrote in message
> news:42c2ece0$0$23688$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...
> > Hi
> >
> > the kit comes with a cutter that i guess goes over the pipe and as it
> > tightens cuts a hole.
> > what happens to the bit it cuts out? i am worried about it falling in to
> the
> > pipe and flowing towards the combi boiler.
> >
> > looks easier than fitting a T joint with compression joints.
> >
> > this will be my first time doing any plumbing.
> >
> > Mark
> >
>
> I would sling that and use a compression T. As others have said there are
> issues with pressure loss and the punched out bit going astray. I've also
> heard that there can be problems with them leaking.
>
> A compression T couldn't be much easier anyway, if you can tighten a nut
and
> bolt you can do it. You will almost certainly have to put other joints in
> anyway, so one more won't hurt. Does the kit also include a shut-off or
> isolator of some kind? I would want to be able to turn it off in winter
and
> drain down the outside part to avoid freezing.
>
> Steve
>
>

Hi All

the kit includes a shutoff in the piece that cuts and provides the feed to
the pipe that runs to the tap.
only bit that worries me about a T is cuttng the pipe where do the copper
filings go, i assume a junior hack saw is the tool to use so there must be
some and last thing i want is to damage the new boiler intake with filings.

so the plan now is a T followed by a cut off , then the piping to the
external tap.

i guess its best to T in after the T that splits to the boiler & cold water
taps with the new T on the cold water taps side of the boiler T.

stopcock --T ------ NEWT ----- cold water taps & cistern ----->
                    |                    |
            shutoff valve   shutoff valve
                    |                     |
                boiler       outside tap   (with reverse flow block thingy)

I hope the above looks ok when posted.

Mark

"Mark D Smith"  wrote in message 
news:42c412f1$0$10474$da0feed9@news.zen.co.uk...

> "shazzbat"  wrote in message
> news:da11kp$58q$2@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>>
>> "Mark D Smith"  wrote in message
>> news:42c2ece0$0$23688$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...
>> > Hi
>> >
>> > the kit comes with a cutter that i guess goes over the pipe and as it
>> > tightens cuts a hole.
>> > what happens to the bit it cuts out? i am worried about it falling in 
>> > to
>> the
>> > pipe and flowing towards the combi boiler.
>> >
>> > looks easier than fitting a T joint with compression joints.
>> >
>> > this will be my first time doing any plumbing.
>> >
>> > Mark
>> >
>>
>> I would sling that and use a compression T. As others have said there are
>> issues with pressure loss and the punched out bit going astray. I've also
>> heard that there can be problems with them leaking.
>>
>> A compression T couldn't be much easier anyway, if you can tighten a nut
> and
>> bolt you can do it. You will almost certainly have to put other joints in
>> anyway, so one more won't hurt. Does the kit also include a shut-off or
>> isolator of some kind? I would want to be able to turn it off in winter
> and
>> drain down the outside part to avoid freezing.
>>
>> Steve
>>
>>
> Hi All
>
> the kit includes a shutoff in the piece that cuts and provides the feed to
> the pipe that runs to the tap.
> only bit that worries me about a T is cuttng the pipe where do the copper
> filings go, i assume a junior hack saw is the tool to use so there must be
> some and last thing i want is to damage the new boiler intake with 
> filings.
>
> so the plan now is a T followed by a cut off , then the piping to the
> external tap.
>
> i guess its best to T in after the T that splits to the boiler & cold 
> water
> taps with the new T on the cold water taps side of the boiler T.
>
> stopcock --T ------ NEWT ----- cold water taps & cistern ----->
>                    |                    |
>            shutoff valve   shutoff valve
>                    |                     |
>                boiler       outside tap   (with reverse flow block thingy)
>
> I hope the above looks ok when posted.
>


If you're worried about hacksaw filings, can you use one of those cutters 
that you twist around the pipe gradually tightening,   They slice rather 
than saw and should create no filings.
-- 
Keith Willcocks
(If you can't laugh at life, it ain't worth living!)

"Mark D Smith"  wrote in message
news:42c412f1$0$10474$da0feed9@news.zen.co.uk...

> "shazzbat"  wrote in message
> news:da11kp$58q$2@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
> >
> > "Mark D Smith"  wrote in message
> > news:42c2ece0$0$23688$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...
> > > Hi
> > >
> > > the kit comes with a cutter that i guess goes over the pipe and as it
> > > tightens cuts a hole.
> > > what happens to the bit it cuts out? i am worried about it falling in
to
> > the
> > > pipe and flowing towards the combi boiler.
> > >
> > > looks easier than fitting a T joint with compression joints.
> > >
> > > this will be my first time doing any plumbing.
> > >
> > > Mark
> > >
> >
> > I would sling that and use a compression T. As others have said there
are
> > issues with pressure loss and the punched out bit going astray. I've
also
> > heard that there can be problems with them leaking.
> >
> > A compression T couldn't be much easier anyway, if you can tighten a nut
> and
> > bolt you can do it. You will almost certainly have to put other joints
in
> > anyway, so one more won't hurt. Does the kit also include a shut-off or
> > isolator of some kind? I would want to be able to turn it off in winter
> and
> > drain down the outside part to avoid freezing.
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> Hi All
>
> the kit includes a shutoff in the piece that cuts and provides the feed to
> the pipe that runs to the tap.
> only bit that worries me about a T is cuttng the pipe where do the copper
> filings go, i assume a junior hack saw is the tool to use so there must be
> some and last thing i want is to damage the new boiler intake with
filings.
>
> so the plan now is a T followed by a cut off , then the piping to the
> external tap.
>
> i guess its best to T in after the T that splits to the boiler & cold
water
> taps with the new T on the cold water taps side of the boiler T.
>
> stopcock --T ------ NEWT ----- cold water taps & cistern ----->
>                     |                    |
>             shutoff valve   shutoff valve
>                     |                     |
>                 boiler       outside tap   (with reverse flow block
thingy)
>
> I hope the above looks ok when posted.
>


Yep that looks good to me. As Keith said, a pipeslice is really the tool for
the job, but may be expensive if this is to be its only use. A pipe cutter
of the type where you tighten it up as you turn will be cheaper and has the
advantage of being able to cut different sizes of pipe, but the disadvantage
of needing more room to use it, or you have to remove the pipe to cut it.
Swings and roundabouts. Alternatively, if you can smear grease round the
pipe where you are cutting it to catch the swarf *and* hold it with the cut
at the bottom, you can use the hacksaw and avoid the swarf getting into the
system. There may even be a filter in the system somewhere, I don't know.
Looking at your diagram, if you could remove the pipe from the existing T
before cutting, that would do it, is that a compression T or a soldered one?
Anyway, one of these should do you.

Steve

"shazzbat"  wrote in message
news:da1d4o$94a$1@newsg2.svr.pol.co.uk...

>
> "Mark D Smith"  wrote in message
> news:42c412f1$0$10474$da0feed9@news.zen.co.uk...
> > "shazzbat"  wrote in message
> > news:da11kp$58q$2@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
> > >
> > > "Mark D Smith"  wrote in message
> > > news:42c2ece0$0$23688$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...
> > > > Hi
> > > >
> > > > the kit comes with a cutter that i guess goes over the pipe and as
it
> > > > tightens cuts a hole.
> > > > what happens to the bit it cuts out? i am worried about it falling
in
> to
> > > the
> > > > pipe and flowing towards the combi boiler.
> > > >
> > > > looks easier than fitting a T joint with compression joints.
> > > >
> > > > this will be my first time doing any plumbing.
> > > >
> > > > Mark
> > > >
> > >
> > > I would sling that and use a compression T. As others have said there
> are
> > > issues with pressure loss and the punched out bit going astray. I've
> also
> > > heard that there can be problems with them leaking.
> > >
> > > A compression T couldn't be much easier anyway, if you can tighten a
nut
> > and
> > > bolt you can do it. You will almost certainly have to put other joints
> in
> > > anyway, so one more won't hurt. Does the kit also include a shut-off
or
> > > isolator of some kind? I would want to be able to turn it off in
winter
> > and
> > > drain down the outside part to avoid freezing.
> > >
> > > Steve
> > >
> > >
<snip>
>
> Yep that looks good to me. As Keith said, a pipeslice is really the tool
for
> the job, but may be expensive if this is to be its only use. A pipe cutter
> of the type where you tighten it up as you turn will be cheaper and has
the
> advantage of being able to cut different sizes of pipe, but the
disadvantage
> of needing more room to use it, or you have to remove the pipe to cut it.
> Swings and roundabouts. Alternatively, if you can smear grease round the
> pipe where you are cutting it to catch the swarf *and* hold it with the
cut
> at the bottom, you can use the hacksaw and avoid the swarf getting into
the
> system. There may even be a filter in the system somewhere, I don't know.
> Looking at your diagram, if you could remove the pipe from the existing T
> before cutting, that would do it, is that a compression T or a soldered
one?
> Anyway, one of these should do you.
>
> Steve
>
>

pipe slice 22mm 15, pipe cutter 149 , i think a slice is the option as i
only have a limited amount of plumbing to do.
Mole Grips to turn it?

i could remove the first T as it is compression fitted.

Mark

SNIP


> >
> pipe slice 22mm 15, pipe cutter 149 ,


What's that, a solid gold one?

Screwfix's item 21946 pipe cutter 3mm - 28mm is the one for you, especially
at 3.49. You only need fingers to turn it, tighten the adjuster a bit at a
time as you rotate it round the pipe. If you do decide to go for the
pipeslice, be sure you get the right one. Your pipe is probably 15mm not
22mm.


Steve

"shazzbat"  wrote in message
news:da1hra$i8u$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...

> SNIP
>
> > >
> > pipe slice 22mm 15, pipe cutter 149 ,
>
> What's that, a solid gold one?
>
> Screwfix's item 21946 pipe cutter 3mm - 28mm is the one for you,
especially
> at 3.49. You only need fingers to turn it, tighten the adjuster a bit at
a
> time as you rotate it round the pipe. If you do decide to go for the
> pipeslice, be sure you get the right one. Your pipe is probably 15mm not
> 22mm.
>
>
> Steve
>

the website says 149.99! but if your order its 14.99 item 74696

Yep 3.49 works for me :) , not checked the pipe dia yet, wonder if homebase
sell these bits & bob's

Mark

"Mark D Smith"  wrote in message 
news:42c44c5a$0$10484$da0feed9@news.zen.co.uk...

> "shazzbat"  wrote in message
> news:da1hra$i8u$1@newsg4.svr.pol.co.uk...
>> SNIP
>>
>> > >
>> > pipe slice 22mm 15, pipe cutter 149 ,
>>
>> What's that, a solid gold one?
>>
>> Screwfix's item 21946 pipe cutter 3mm - 28mm is the one for you,
> especially
>> at 3.49. You only need fingers to turn it, tighten the adjuster a bit at
> a
>> time as you rotate it round the pipe. If you do decide to go for the
>> pipeslice, be sure you get the right one. Your pipe is probably 15mm not
>> 22mm.
>>
>>
>> Steve
>>
> the website says 149.99! but if your order its 14.99 item 74696
>
> Yep 3.49 works for me :) , not checked the pipe dia yet, wonder if 
> homebase
> sell these bits & bob's
>
> Mark


Yes they do, the pipe cutter is the best option.  I've done loads of DIY 
plumbing and it's a far better bet than a hacksaw.  Only issue is if your 
pipe is right up against the wall which may cause a working room problem. 
However, you can usually be pretty brutal with copper systems and put quite 
alot of force into them without a problem.  Not something that can be easily 
done with dodgy push fit plastic rubbish everyone seems so keen on these 
days!

Al

As a plumbing inspector for a local water company (so pretty experienced)
these kits are rubbish and more trouble than they are worth.  Use a
compression tee and do it properly, its well worth it in the end to avoid
problems.





"kik"  wrote in message
news:42c317e0$0$13503$cc9e4d1f@news.dial.pipex.com...

> Last time I did this for a washing machine, the bit of pipe came out of
the
> tap.  I had left the next tap running when cutting the pipe to make sure
the
> bit came out with the water.
>
>
> "Mark D Smith"  wrote in message
> news:42c2ece0$0$23688$db0fefd9@news.zen.co.uk...
> > Hi
> >
> > the kit comes with a cutter that i guess goes over the pipe and as it
> > tightens cuts a hole.
> > what happens to the bit it cuts out? i am worried about it falling in to
> > the
> > pipe and flowing towards the combi boiler.
> >
> > looks easier than fitting a T joint with compression joints.
> >
> > this will be my first time doing any plumbing.
> >
> > Mark
> >
>
>